I moved to Cajicá at the tail end of February, renting my Bogotá apartment to a friend and English student of mine. And now that I’m living here, I’ve realized that my impression, that Cajicá is a little warmer than Bogotá and that it rains a little less, is correct. It’s more often sunny or at least partly sunny, and rains during the night more often than during the day. Or maybe it’s not Cajicá, but a change in the usual weather pattern for March and April. When I speak to friends in Bogotá, I often hear that the weather there has been lovely too. So perhaps this winter season on the savanna is just unusually mild. “Abril – aguas mil,” the Colombian version of Swann and Flanders’ “April brings the sweet spring showers – on and on for hours and hours,” hasn’t materialized this year. And the more sunny it’s been, the more I’ve been thinking that now that I have a little grassy patio, I should enjoy it! Eventually I’d like to turn it into a garden, perhaps with a small deck across the back of the house, a place for some comfortable chairs and a table. Not quite ready for that much work – or that much expense – but I took a first step this week.
This is Semana Santa, Holy Week, and not only did Bogotá empty out, Cajicá is pretty much a ghost town as well. Every bogotano who can afford a bus ticket, heads for the country at the start of every three-day weekend and all longer holidays, like this one. The traffic heading out of Bogotá is almost always unbearable, but at Christmas and during Semana Santa, it’s a real scramble. I invited my friend Nancy and her daughter Yiseth to come stay with me for a couple of days, and join me in an ‘asado’, a barbecue. They surprised me by arriving on the ‘flota’ (interurban bus) Wednesday evening. Their thought was to stay until Friday evening, but on Good Friday, there were no flotas to be found. So they stayed another night, and headed for the bus stop early this morning.
They accompanied me to Home Center on Thursday where we looked at a pretty extensive display of outdoor cookery. The Home Center store, about half way between Cajicá and Chía, opened a few months ago, and it’s a real boon to have one nearby. Any taxi from Cajicá will take you there, and if you ask for the driver’s cel phone number, he’s usually delighted to come pick you up when you’re ready. It’s a $5 ride to Home Center, twice as much as taxi drivers usually earn within the city limits.
Some of the ‘outdoor cooking stations’ we saw in the store were about twice the width and taller than a good-sized kitchen stove. Those run on propane, and cost over a million pesos ($500 US.) If I had one of those, I’d feel obligated to cook outside every day, rain or shine! A much simpler model, would do me fine, so I bought one called Mr. Beef. It takes charcoal, and has a little platform on either side of the bowl for utensils or food. Plenty big enough. And only about $60. Feeling pleased that I’d not gone nuts and blown every penny I had on the cooker, I bought a couple of long-handled utensils, ‘carbón vegetal’ (charcoal, but not in briquets), and a ‘chispa.’ The chispa turned out to be a soft brick of white, clay-like material, made of some waxy substance, designed to make it easier to light the charcoal.
After we got Mr. Beef home, we went back out on foot, in search of something to barbecue. First we found a rather large shop selling all kinds of fresh fruit and vegetables. In one corner we noticed a refrigerated section offering fish, various kinds of meats, cheeses and other milk products, so we stopped, hoping we might find everything we had in mind in one place. We bought two plantain bananas, about a dozen yellow potatoes, known as ‘papa criolla,’ some ‘cebolla larga’ (literally, long onions, rather like scallions but significantly longer and thicker), a couple of avocados, three cobs of corn (local savanna, not sweet corn), a couple of green lemons, one red snapper – whole and frozen – two entire chicken breasts, fileted, a couple of pounds of beef filets for “churrasco” (very thin steak), and four pounds of “chunchullo (pronounced choon-choo-joe).”
You’re probably wondering what “chunchullo” is and why we bought four pounds of it. It’s the small intestine of a cow. We bought four pounds because the first thing you have to do to prepare it for cooking is cut off an astounding amount of fat, which probably leaves you with about 2 pounds of actual intestine. More on this later…
We wanted some ‘chorizo’ (sausage) as well, and were hoping to find some pork ribs, but none were to be had at that store. So we walked on. Eventually we found sausage at another store, but nobody had ribs; ribs are extremely popular here, and disappear fast from the butcher shops. We consoled ourselves buying some pork filets. And some beer. And some ice cream. We probably had enough food to feed a small army, but our motto for the day was, better too much than not enough! In the end, barbecue ingredients cost about $50, not bad considering all that meat! (The two most expensive items were the ice cream and the red snapper. The fish, because it’s going to be extinct soon; the ice cream, well, ice cream is always expensive here.)
We suddenly realized that after our pilgrimage in search of barbecue-ables, it was so late in the day, that we would have to put off the meal until Friday. So we bought some tamales to take home as a late lunch, and hailed a passing cab.
At home Nancy prepared a marinade for the chicken breast filets, churrasco, and pork filets. Her recipe: about half a can of beer, a couple of tablespoons of barbecue sauce, a bit of garlic sauce, salt and pepper to taste and an enormous amount of chopped green onion. Rubbed that all over the various meats, and put it all in the fridge.
Next she began to prepare the chunchullo. It probably took a good 45 minutes just to cut all the fat off the extremely long, thin intestines. After that, she cut what was left into about three pieces, and we tied off both ends of each piece with a bit of thread. There’s fat inside the intestines, that Nancy said should not be allowed to escape during the next phase of preparation. She put the chunchullo into my pressure cooker with some salted water, and set it on the stove. It cooked, spitting and whistling for probably about an hour before she decided it was done. That we set also aside for the next day.
And then we ate our tamales and had some ice cream with a little Bailey’s on it.
The following morning, Yiseth decided to take charge of putting together Mr. Beef, which came broken down in a box, with the customary vague instructions. It’s a good thing there were three of us, because at times it really did require six hands to put it together. We set it out on the concrete slabs in the patio, and opened the bag of charcoal. While Yiseth fought with the charcoal, Nancy put a little butter in the bottom of a skillet, and when it melted, she tossed the papa criolla in it, whole, and popped a lid on the skillet.

Looks like wood to me. Supposed to be eco-friendly…
I’d never heard of ‘carbón vegetal.’ I knew it didn’t come in briquets, but no more than that. It looks like what it is: black pieces of wood. Most of it looks like chunks hacked out of a tree or bush, but some looks like someone took an electric saw to a broom stick and sliced it into two or three-inch bits. Yiseth opened the box of ‘chispa’ (spark, literally), placed a couple of pieces in the charcoal, and lit it with a match. It didn’t seem to be doing much good, so after a while she added some more. Nancy suggested putting some paper on the fire to spread it around better. But as it burned, the paper turned into very light ash that flew around the yard as Yiseth fanned the charcoal. Eventually, we looked for help on-line: “how to light charcoal more quickly.” The first suggestion was to soak the paper in vegetable oil and sprinkle vegetable oil on the charcoal. That helped a little, but not enough. The next suggestion was to wrap about 2 tablespoons of sugar in a paper towel, add a little vegetable oil to the towel, set it in the charcoal and light it with a match.

The little white chunks are the ‘chispa’
The sugar did the trick, and pretty soon the charcoal was burning nicely. Nancy took over and began to set the marinated meat on the grill. She poured a little bit of beer on each filet, and used a leftover green onion to smush it around. I considered offering her a pastry brush, and then realized the onion was not only functional, it probably added flavor. Then Nancy positioned the corn cobs around the edges of the grill. Next, the plantain, still in its skin. After she’d pulled a few filets of this and that off the grill and plopped them onto a cookie sheet for Yiseth and me to start eating, she pulled a bunch of chunchullo out of the pressure cooker, and plopped it down in the center of the grill. Yiseth pulled the taters off the stove and set the skillet on the cookie sheet as well, which quickly began to fill with goodies. All the filets were sliced so thin, everything cooked really fast!

Chispa lights well, but doesn’t spread.
We ate and ate and ate. And then ate more. All the meat was delicious. I tried the chunchullo. I can see why it’s so popular here, but I probably shouldn’t have watched the preparation, because after a couple of bites, I’d had enough. This provoked gales of laughter from Nancy and Yiseth, and an attitude of “oh, well, more for us, then!” The plantain was really for them as well – I occasionally eat it, but it’s often a bit too sweet for my taste. The little yellow papa criolla, I’ve always adored, and I’m glad I’ve learned how to make it on the stove. I’ve always just tossed it into soups, where it dissolves almost completely, thickening the soup a bit and contributing to the flavor. Nice, but it’s also nice to eat one whole! And then there was the corn…

Finally, food on the grill!
I’ve been waiting for seven years to have Colombian corn on the cob roasted on a grill. I’ve often seen it for sale, prepared right out on the street. But ever since a taco I ate on the street in Mexico in 1968 gave me dysentery, I’ve had a rule: no buying street food no matter how good it smells or looks. Dysentery is extremely unpleasant.
The corn grown up here on the Bogotá savanna isn’t sweet, and its kernels are about twice the size of sweet corn, requiring effortful chewing, but ah… the rewards…. simply scrumptious.

Chef Nancy, turning a plantain
It was sunny, hot, and breezy all throughout our asado. We ate in stages for a couple of hours, until at around four in the afternoon, everything was finally cooked. It felt rather like a huge Colombian Thanksgiving feast; the food just kept on piling up on that cookie sheet! Late in the game Nancy realized they’d forgotten to pull the avocado out of the fridge, so she and Yiseth made guacamole and snacked on that while we waited for the grill to cool down. In the evening we watched a Spanish language version of How to Train Your Dragon.
This morning, Nancy and Yiseth left for Bogotá very early and I put several pounds of leftovers in a bag for them. I also popped the chorizo into their bag; another item we’d forgotten to pull out of the fridge! (I’ll get around to cooking the red snapper, but for now it’s resting in my freezer.) Around noon I lunched on some leftover chicken and some papa criolla, wistfully thinking that we should have bought and cooked about twice as much corn. Next time…

Yiseth, fanning the flames. Note the hair dryer on the ground. It was news to me that a hair dryer is a great source of (hot) air to encourage the charcoal to heat up!

Little yellow potatoes, called papa criolla – everybody’s favorite!

Chunchullo in the middle. It rather reminds me of Klingon ‘gagh’ although it doesn’t wiggle on your plate, thank goodness…


















