Every time we go on a difficult hike, I remember our trip to Cape Scott provincial park, on northern part of Vancouver Island, several years ago. Three of us were driving in our small Chevy Aveo toward village of Holberg, on a very bad logging road in pouring rain. At some point we saw a wreck of a car by the side of the road with big tree on top of it and sign that says “BE PREPARED FOR THE UNEXPECTED”. We just looked at each other…

This year we made a plan to hike famous West Coast Trail, rugged 75km log trail along the south-western part of Vancouver Island. It goes from Pachena Bay in the north to Gordon River on the south. Northern part is considered the easiest part of the trail and southern is difficult and technical. Trail crosses three First Nations’ lands: Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht, and Pacheedaht who also maintain the trail and do repairs when needed and when possible. Hikers have to be prepared to cross numerous creeks – no bridges on many of them – and some rivers and inlet. Trail is very popular and Parks Canada had to limit number of people accessing the trail through their online reserve system. As average, around 7500 hikers walk this trail every year. Also, as average, 1 person per day gets evacuated due to injury.

We started preparing less than a year ago, hiking most of the weekends with our heavy backpacks, through forests, beaches and mountains in Campbell River area and Strathcona Park. Overall we hiked about 800km together with San adding about 300km more herself. Also, I must point out that most of the planning: trail schedule, food, gear, weight of packs count San did herself so all kudos to my wife. I helped as much as I could due to my job, but she is working from home and could better organize her days.


And so, we started the hike on August 18th and had to pull out of trail in the evening of August 20th.
We failed to finish it.
When we planned when to go on hike, August looked like the best option. It is the driest month, with not much rain and that helps by making trail less muddy and easier to hike. And it was like that until about few days prior to our trip. Then wind changed and brought some very hard rain from Pacific. Atmospheric river, as it is called, brought 50-80mm of rain daily in a span of 2-3 days. Then it was nice and dry for a couple of days, August 18th being one of them, and then it rained one more day. The overall amount of rain made a normally difficult trail dangerous. And if you know anything about this part of the world, you don’t want to be on the trail when it rains like that.

It started fine. Hiked 14km first day, with some mud starting at kilometer 10 marker and difficult mud pit just before Michigan camp. We found a way over it, crossed two creeks and made a camp at Darling river campsite.






Rain started at 3 in the morning. It rained until early afternoon, but we decided to push through to Tsusiat Falls camp where we arrived around 4:30 pm. It took almost 8 hours to hike 11km. We made a dinner, tried to air some of the wet clothes and have a rest. Sun was coming through the fog and it felt very nice at the time. When I was going to get some water from the river, I saw a small “grave” someone made from the rocks with a wooden cross and “EGO” inscribed on it. I found it appropriate. The day before we saw a group of young hikers coming the opposite way and they told us they were on a trail head on a day when atmospheric river started. They looked tired and miserable.






Next day was sunny and we made an early start. The plan was to go to Nitinaht Narrows, rest at Crab Shack, small, family run restaurant where you can order crabs, halibut, stuffed potatoes and beer, then hike further to Cribbs camp. A long day of hiking, but the weather was nice and we were in good spirit.


We were at Ditidaht trail guardian cabin when I saw San slipping on boardwalk, landing hard on her face, backpack pushing her a bit further where she hit the top of her head. And my heart sank. After quickly checking, she figured that nothing was broken and I helped her up. At that point she was running on pure adrenalin and everything felt ok. Half an hour later, when we crossed another creek and stopped on a beautiful beach to have a snack, reality kicked in. We were not sure if she has had a concussion or if her cheekbone cracked, or if there is another injury that might show later on. And we made a decision to pull out of the trail at Nitinath Narrows. That’s the only point on a trail that you can exit by boat, for a fee, to a Balaats’adt village, where we could get a West Coast Trail bus to Port Renfrew, where we left our car. I have a GPS device with a possibility to call Search and Rescue, but even in that case it would take them up to 24 hours to organize evacuation by boat. Just in case of life threatening injuries they would send a helicopter. However, that would be irresponsible.



There was nothing to prove and I am happy we are both ok. San has numerous bruises but they will fade away soon.
But not all was doom and gloom. If you have ever been on the west side of the Vancouver Island, you know how beautiful it is. Impassable rainforest that stops at beautiful sandy beaches; we saw sea lions resting on rocks; we saw two humpback whales off the beach on Darling camp; and seals, Harlequin ducks, cormorants and mergansers; crossbills (a bird from a finch family characterized by the beak with crossed tips) were all over the place; there was a mink looking at us on a trail and we had encounter with a curious black bear just after crossing Klanawa river in a cable car (a special kind of fun).

And we met some great people along the way, sharing the enthusiasm and stories: group of four women from Alberta who travelled the same direction as we did; a young and very fit firefighter who hike the trail on her own; a couple from southern Quebec; a mixed nationality group – medical worker from Seattle, a young woman from BC and another man from BC with his girlfriend from Finland; a couple from Sooke, near BC capital of Victoria, and their two young daughters, they planned to go just half the trail and pull out at Nitinath narrows; Ditidaht trail guardian Shane with his two teenage sons: “I am almost 40” he said, and then shared some history of the region with us.
So we failed but experienced enough to remember this summer. We are just a bit too old to try it again and there are many other beautiful places to visit, not as difficult as West Coast Trail.
We failed but there is a feeling of accomplishment.





























































































































