Joyful voices,
coloured leaves:
my one-word prayer
of ‘haiku’!
Yuki*
November 29th, a bright, clear autumn day. Seventeen poets left their homes for a haiku hike down the 葛城の古道 Katsuragi no Furumichi, an ancient trail threading Shinto shrines nestled into the high ground to the southwest of 御所 Gose city, Nara. Poets assembled at Gose Station at an early hour, only to discover that the bus to the trailhead had been cancelled! It was now officially ‘off-season’. Nothing for it but to trudge uphill towards 鴨山口神社 Kamoyamaguchi Shrine, with 葛城山 Mt. Katsuragi’s red-and-orange-tinted summit looming against the blue above.
Off the mountain,
a sliver of paraglider
grazing the clouds
Richard
At Kamoyamaguchi Shrine, the poets were approached by two local ladies, curious to see a group with so many unfamiliar, big-nosed faces. They told us about the next, and more important shrine, Hitokotonushi Jinja, to which they pay their respects every New Year morning.
Bidding them farewell, we joined the Furumichi Trail at a huge carved boulder in the road, 六地蔵 Rokujizō. For a while thereafter, we left behind all roads and settlements, gratefully treading an earthen path.
A rag of cloud
flowing so fast –
Old Katsuragi Road
Maya
Green and plump
one forgotten fig –
summer fading
Jeanne
The countryside was decked in autumn colours: reds in leaves and in ripened berries …
my stolen raspberry
was so sweet …
until I noticed
two watching eyes
David
… the yellows of ginkgo trees, of dry grass …
hugged by mountains
the ancient road unveils …
hushed golden ginkgoes
Akihiko
… the oranges of oak leaves, of kaki-fruit drying under eaves or left to ripen on the trees …
Look up –
autumn persimmons,
a pen rested
in her shiny hair!
Reiko
What a good day it was to be out walking in the sun!
autumn clouds
reflected in fishponds –
the sky goes on forever
David
At 一言主神社 Hitokotonushi Shrine, we rested beside a red dragonfly obliviously sunbathing. All were awestruck by the presence of a wide-boled, multi-papped gingko tree, said to be 1,200 years old.
on this pale bench
a scattering of gingko leaves:
their shadows’
autumn verse
Anna
another autumn … crutches for the sacred ginkgo tree
Duro
There, we discussed a spring poem written by Bashō at this shrine and featured in the afterword to our last book, I Wish. With the Gingko-tree listening on, Gerald (in English) and Stephen (in Japanese) intoned the famous verse:
なほ見たし花に明け行く神の顔
Nao mitashi hana ni ake-yuku kami no kao
All the more I wish to see
in those blossoms at dawn
the face of the god
The resident god, Hitokotonushi-no-mikoto, is known to suddenly appear to travellers in his mountains and to challenge them. For whatever reason, his face is always hidden, but he may grant a pilgrim’s wish if it is expressed as a single word.
A one-word wish on each …
gingko leaves falling
Miki
From Hitokotonushi Shrine, we strolled on along 長柄 Nagara High Street, with its quaint Old Post Office and Edo-period Nakamura Residence, towards the site of 南郷 Nangō, an important Kofun period settlement. In a small park beside 住吉神社 Sumiyoshi Shrine we took our lunch. Poets propped themselves against stone lanterns or spread mats on the fallen leaves.
Placing its solitude
in a pool of sunshine –
winter violet
Miki
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At 極楽寺 Gokurakuji Temple, we were joined by two more of Stephen’s university students, Haruki and Satoru, whose departure had been delayed. We began a climb on the lower slopes of 金剛山 Mt. Kongō headed towards 高天彦神社 Takamahiko Shrine: first, ascending steeply through a cryptomeria forest; later, more gradually through farmland … to reach the hidden hamlet of 高天 Takama. The mountain area to the west of here is known as Takamahara, the Land of the Gods. The particular god worshipped at the local shrine, Takamimusuhi, is said to reside on the pyramidal peak above called 白雲岳 Hakuundake, White Cloud Peak, as there is often a white cloud tethered to it.
the god of the peak –
climbers fall silent
at the approach to his shrine
Tomiko
A scarecrow’s clothes
left on a fence –
Takamahara
Tito
This hamlet is thought to have been one of the locations where indigenous people hid when pressured by the incoming Kofun culture and the foundations of a Yamato state. They became known, colloquially, as Tsuchigumo (earth spiders) by the new elite and are said to have links with the Kamo clan. In the beautiful stone-laid precincts of Takamahiko Jinja, there is a memorial rock to the Tsuchigumo.
Beside the shrine a stream babbles down from Mt. Kongō and passes through a waterwheel.
“Water”
my one-word prayer:
heard from
very ancient times
Marina*
We descended southeastwards, leaving Mt. Kongō behind and with the spectre of the 大峰山脈 Omine Range suddenly looming large before us.
The vista opens up:
undulating mountain ridges,
autumn hues drifting
Haruki
The penultimate shrine, 高鴨神社 Takagamo Jinja, was magnificently dressed in autumn foliage, the peace of its clean green pond only broken by occasional duck calls and the chatter of poets. We strolled on through the shrine woods, dotted with elaborate wooden hokora (Shinto altars).
Each god, each goddess
has its little wooden home …
with a view of the sunset
Tito
Passing through the wide expanse of rice fields known as 風の森 Kazenomori, where the Gose sake company, Yuchō, grows its heavenly Akitsuho rice … away, beyond the Yoshino River, the Omine Range suddenly looked quite near.
The Wind God’s clump
presiding over vast paddies –
stubble in afterglow
Akihiko
We paid our respects at 志那都彦神社 Shinatsuhiko Shrine before descending to the main road to catch a ride back north.
A bus stop named
‘Forest of Winds’ –
Winter journey
Miki
The four youngest members of the group decided not to wait for the bus, however, and set off to walk the last mile to Kamokimi-no-Yu spa.
In salmon pink dusk
hurrying to the bathhouse …
silver moon
Kazue
Cool winds,
Nightfall closing in –
Hot spring ahead!
Satoru*
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* haiku adapted
Report by Jeanne Austry & Tito