Homage To The Legacy Of Giorgio Armani: The Pinnacle Of Italian Fashion, Sophistication & Elegance

Giorgio Armani: A Visionary Who Transformed Fashion (1935-2025)

“Acknowledge the elegance of simplicity”– Giorgio Armani

At the age of 91, the revered fashion designer has departed us, leaving behind a legacy of elegance, unmatched sophistication and timeless style that will continue to endure beyond his archives of fashion…

“Elegance is not about being noticed. It’s about being remembered”– Giorgio Armani

Synonymous with modern Italian style, Armani was a master of fashion. In 1975, Giorgio Armani S.p.A was formed, thus marking 50 years of fashion: 1975-2025. As of his passing, Armani had become a multi billion dollar empire. Five decades of Italian style and a global impact of fashion revolution...

Referred to as “A man for all seasons”, Giorgio Armani has left an indelible mark upon fashion. One of the great designers of the century and a force in fashion. He offered the world timeless elegance throughout his decades of fashion design. A modern, sensual style that remains classic. Armani was a visionary creator who transformed how the world understood luxury. The Armani way… his essence of understated luxury as a way of dressing with impeccable quality….

“The difference between style and fashion is quality”– Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani: A Legacy Of Elegance

“I believe that style is the only real luxury; that is really desirable”– Giorgio Armani

Of importance in acknowledging his vast empire is understanding the brand lines. Prior to 2017 Armani operated seven distinct fashion lines: Giorgio Armani Privé (haute couture), Giorgio Armani Black Label (luxury ready-to-wear), Armani Collezioni (diffusion line), Emporio Armani (contemporary luxury), Armani Jeans (denim-based casual wear), Armani Junior (childrenswear), and Armani Exchange (accessible luxury). After 2017 the house of Armani was reorganized to create clear branding into three core divisions: Giorgio Armani (Black label/Armani Collezioni’s formal wear), Emporio Armani (contemporary line) and A/X Armani Exchange (accessible luxury line/younger, trend-focussed market). Armani Privé, the haute couture line launched in 2005, operates separately from the three retail tiers, with made-to-measure garments and exclusive accessories. A global brand with vast outreach. Of note, outside of his world of fashion, there is also “Armani Casa“, his interior design label…a testament to his clean lines and proportion. His talent knew no bounds…

With that impressive outline of his successful empire, a nod to Armani’s early timeline in fashion…

Born in Piacenza, a small town in Italy near Milan, it is interesting to note that fashion was not Armani’s original intention. Yet Giorgio Armani would begin his fashion career as a window dresser at La Rinascente, a luxury Milanese department store located on Milan’s legendary Via Vittorio Emanuele. It is here where he is said to have learned about fabrics and gain experience with customers. Thus the window into his world of fashion had begun. Armani rose through the ranks swiftly and became a buyer for La Rinascente.

“I didn’t know how to draw, except for the patterns I’d learned in school. I didn’t take any special courses to become a designer. I did have taste, though. And the window display at La Rinascente was an extraordinary school” – Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani & Nino Cerruti

In 1964 Italian fashion designer and textile master, Nino Cerruti (1930-2022) hired Armani as a designer in his menswear line at his luxury design house, Cerruti 1881. Specifically, Armani would design at Cerruti’s Hitman sportswear label. Cerruti was a pioneer in menswear and became a mentor to Armani for over a decade. It was here that Armani is said to have gained valuable experience in menswear design and learned the power of deconstructed jackets, high-quality fabrics and the craft of design. In the legacy of fashion itself, Cerutti was known for classic styled suits while Armani was would become known for relaxed silhouettes.

“From him, I learned not only the taste for sartorial softness, but also the importance of a well-rounded vision, as a designer and as an entrepreneur”– Giorgio Armani on Nino Cerruti

Sergio Galeotti & Giorgio Armani

In July of 1975, Armani’s empire was launched and co-founded with his partner, Italian architect and business partner, Sergio Galeotti (1945-1985). Giorgio Armani S.p.A. Galeotti was crucial in helping to establish the luxury brand that would evolve Armani into a global empire. After Galeotti’s passing in 1985, Armani would remain the sole owner of one of the world’s most iconic fashion houses. A testament to his success and independence from selling his brand into today’s world of fashion conglomerates. Impressive and inspiring, for certain.

The legacy of Armani would not be complete without the acknowledgment of his exclusive launch in the United States. In 1976 an iconic bond would be established with the influential New York City store Barneys. Barney’s would become the first retailer to carry Armani’s menswear collections. It is said that Barneys‘ founder, Fred Pressman, discovered Armani in the Italian magazine, L’Uomo Vouge. Pressman “flew to Milan, and struck a deal to sell Armani’s groundbreaking, unstructured suits, which represented a departure from the prevailing American “sack suit” styleThis partnership launched Armani in the US market and solidified Barneys’ reputation as a premier destination for innovative international fashion“. Through Barney’s the Italian designer would become “a staple of stateside fashion“. Barney’s provided Armani a vital platform, essentially “breaking into America” and establishing him as a major force in fashion”. Simultaneously, “the collaboration with Armani cemented Barneys’ reputation as a premier luxury department store known for launching significant designer brands“. A win-win. A mutual investment and pivotal moment in fashion history for both Armani and Barney’s, indeed….

Barney’s Newspaper Advertisement New York. 1977.
Barneys Newspaper Advertisement, New York /1978

In 1978, Armani established an agreement with Gruppo Finanzario Tessile (GFT) that allowed for his high-fashion prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) collections under his design supervision. In 1979, Armani launched his main line for men and women in the United States after founding the Giorgio Armani Corporation.

GFT & Armani: Made In Italy

Armani’s aesthetic was an attitude of dressing. In the 1980’s Armani revolutionized how men and women dressed for work. He broke all of the barriers. His causally reduced “Slouch tailoring“, unconstructed suits on the man, created a softly structured style and the structured “Power Suit” on the woman were both refined and fresh. And revolutionary. Armani would look back and state “When I started blending mens and women’s fashion many years ago, the public often became uneasy and perplexed”. Armani famously stated:

I was the first to soften the image of men, and harden the image of women” – Giorgio Armani

Armani deconstructed traditional suits, removing stiff interlining, and used drapier fabrics to give menswear a less aggressive feel. For women’s suits, he incorporated exaggerated, masculine elements like broad, padded shoulders and large lapels, creating a powerful, commanding silhouette. Empowering women in the process. He perfected a uniform for a new generation of working men and women. This design revolution of style and design shift ensured a new era of self-assured confidence and understated luxury for both men and women. Simplicity and elegance. An empire was born. Armani would set the blueprint of fashion for the 1980’s and beyond…

The Armani “Power Suit”, 1980’s

My aim was to give women a sense of confidence that didn’t compromise their femininity”– Giorgio Armani

The Armani Woman, 1980’s

And 1980 it was…and it began. Armani forever changed the silhouette of the man. Designing the wardrobe for Richard Gere in the iconic film, American Gigilo, the film itself transcended his status. The clothing design was modern, fresh and yes, revolutionary. Between his designs for the film and the popularity of his “Power Suits” for women and their symbol for success brought him into mainstream of American awareness in fashion. Add to that, the flamboyant and bright hues of 1980’s fashion contrasted significantly with Armani’s modern and neutral color palette. Referenced with his own shade of style: “Greige” , these hues became known as the “Armani Code“. A palette of neutrals that were uncomplicated. Sandy beige, gray and brown.

On American Gigolo: “I was amazed when I understood that the film promoted my look worldwide – something I could never have afforded at the time” – Giorgio Armani

Richard Gere/Dressed & Styled By Armani/1980 film American Gigolo
Time Magazine/April 1982

“The essence of style is a simple way of saying something complex” Giorgio Armani

In 1984, what followed “suit” was the signature deconstructed, relaxed-fit linen suits paired with matching trousers of Miami Vice. The American television series, Miami Vice, is largely remembered for the stylish clothes Detectives Sonny Crockett and Ricardo Tubbs, designed by Armani.

Miami Vice: Don Johnson & Phillip Michael Thomas/1984

With Armani’s rise to global fame, his “big break” would be credited to Hollywood. Armani designed for over 200 films and made an impact of dressing the “red carpet” of Hollywood. Armani would redefine how celebrities dressed. Hollywood has its own history with the elegance and timelessness of Armani. That is its own chapter intertwined into his archives and certainly a force in establishing himself as a designer indelibly. For me, however, having never been a Hollywood devotee, my focus and attention has always been onto the fashion itself. For it is not who wears the garments, it is the timelessness and classic designs of style that stands out to me. Fashion and the model. Fashion in print. The designer and the art of his creations. Armani created a lifestyle of clothing that could be worn effortlessly and comfortably. Within everyone’s reach. The power of emulating great style. Classics. That is timeless. A style icon and pinnacle of elegance, for certain.

Recalling my youth and my own personal awareness of Armani, it was through magazines that I became aware of his name in the Eighties. Those wonderful black and white advertisements…I remember. But the Nineties…oh, the 90’s….truly a special decade to me in which I recall fondly my heightened appreciation for the designer. Having traveled to Milan in 1997, the world of Armani certainly surrounded. A shared visual photographic recollection from behind the lens of my Nikon camera certainly remains a moment in time that will endure in my memories….

My Personal Photograph, Captured In 1997 at Milano Centrale Train Station/ Milan, Italy

For me, this post on Armani would not be complete without sharing my personal affinity to the designer in a decade of time. My archived magazine pages from fashion’s print and my personal sketched renderings from magazine advertisements from the late 1990’s. That decade was special. Time and a moment. And a period I harken back to often. Returning to the “Nineties me”, if you will.

A look back at how fashion truly inspires. That is a constant. Armani will remain that constant….certainly for me.

From My Archives: Late 1990’s Fashion Magazine Advertisements

(And yes, upon the 1996 launch of Aqua di Gio, I layered myself in that scent…recollections, onward…)

Circa 1997: My Sketched Renderings of the Model/Magazine Ads Of Giorgio Armani

“A woman should always dress to be remembered, not simply to be noticed” -Giorgio Armani

“I prefer to look at a natural woman. A woman should be courageous to become older, not desperate to look younger than her age”– Giorgio Armani

The Armani Fashion Ad & My sketch, Circa 1997

“I love things that age well- things that don’t date, that stand the test of time and that become living examples of the absolute best”– Giorgio Armani

“I must always try to do better. Because perfectionism, and the need to always have new goals and achieve them, is a state of mind that brings profound meaning to life” Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

“If what I created 50 years ago is still appreciated by an audience that wasn’t even born at the time, this is the ultimate reward”– Giorgio Armani

The passing of Giorgio Armani marks the end of an era. Yet the glamour, grace and casual elegance of Armani’s refined style will continue to endure the test of time.…50 years of style to revere.

Onward to the legacy of elegance and sophistication of Giorgio Armani….

Kristin

Black & White Stripes: Bold Elegance Of Classic Interior Style

The Visual Power Of Black & White Stripes

The power of simplicity. There is something to be said about the dramatic elegance and striking contrast that the vivid addition of black and white stripes offer within the interior.  Intentional and polished, this classic and yet bold pattern creates a prominent visual statement and focal point. Bold repetition of classic interior style.

With any pattern and style, through different eras, what is deemed “in” or “out” can change through time. Of course, a look back at the history of this pattern in interior design denotes that the bold black and white stripe found favor during the 18th century during the Neoclassical period. Perhaps it can be said that intentional minimalism followed the ornate Rococo period. Neoclassical favored simplistic, clean lines and geometric patterns. During the 1920’s and 1930’s, fashion would once again draw upon the striped appeal of black and white. The history of interior and fashionable style, and the periods of time and change that they have encompassed, will always find a way back into our focus and within our interior worlds.

That said, I am of the mindset that black and white stripes are not limited by time or trend but are an enduring “Forever Classic“. Nor are they simply a mere resurgence in fashion and specifically, within interior design.  This simplistic and monochromatic scheme, when incorporated tastefully, creates an elevated, sophisticated and even modern aesthetic within the interior. If it is touted as having a “Modern Revival” it can be added that classics never fade out of style.   Like the pattern itself, style will always repeat

Considered a neutral, this high contrast combination of clean lines merges effortlessly within interiors. This powerful element of style not only demands attention but also can create a foundation of a color scheme. For certain, it is a versatile and crisp repeating pattern that offers instant visual impact when distinctively layered within the interior. From striking wallpaper or boldly painted upon on the walls, incorporated through textiles, upholstery, drapery, rugs, fabrics and accessories, the effects of stripes of black and white will ground a room with bold elegance. Perhaps it can even be said that the striped appeal of black and white ,with its stark, uniform order and simplicity, adds a tailored and polished masculine edge to an interior.  For the love of a tailored and polished look- timeless, indeed!

As a proponent of “Less is More”, with a nod of acknowledgment to architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, it is the incorporation of this bold symmetry when it is given the space to stand alone. In the world of interior design, the goal is complimentary or tonal colors, utilizing different tints and shades of a single color to create cohesiveness of balance and harmony within a space. A bold accent against a neutral background- the power of impact- that can be softened when paired with neutral hues of the surrounding space. The power of intentional restraint in decoration. Less truly is more. There is elegance and sophistication in minimal saturation but bold infusion of this striped appeal.  

Striped Appeal

Aside from being a dramatic graphic, it is said that there is a rhythm and energy added to a space when the symmetry of black and white stripes are present.  But again,  the objective is to seek drama without overpowering or dominating a room.  Again, less is always more…

And of flanking the walls? The scale and direction of these continual wide lines of black and white, either arranged in a horizontal or vertical direction, can set the tone of a room.  When emboldened upon the walls, the bold stripe can evoke a sense of openness and space, altering the visual perception of size and height of a room.  Horizontal stripes can visually widen a room while vertical stripes will draw the eye upward, creating the illusion of higher ceiling.  The power of bold repetition.

The black and white striped interior offers a sense of sophistication and timeless glamour that is powerful and enduring. Perhaps also a statement of bold fearlessness in the art of decoration, stripes of black and white are a prominent pattern that will continue to delight. With appreciation of the elegant appeal of these opulent stripes, a presentation of compilations of the bold pattern adorning interior spaces…

The Power Of Black & White Stripes
Striped Affair: Black and white delight
Interiors: Embracing The Black & White Stripe
Cinematic Interlude: Black & White Stripes
Black & White Striped Interior Appeal
Stylish In Stripes: Black & White Delight
Striped Delights: Power Of A Pattern
Striped: Timeless In Black & White
Striped Details Of Interior Style
The Timeless Classic Of Black & White Stripe
Black & White Stripe: Interior Options Of Bold Style
Culinary Pairing: Black & White Stripes
Striped In Style: Bold Symmetry
Romance Of The Black & White Stripe
Private Delights In Black & White
Emboldened: Stripes Of Black & White
Prominent Stripes In Black & White
Powder Room Delights in Stripes of Black & White
All In The Details: Black & White Stripes

Of course, let’s not forget the bold and crisp statement within our exterior spaces. Whether it is a patio, a terrace or an alcove of architectural style, the addition of black and white stripes will continue to enliven a space. And of the art of entertaining with the striped pattern of dramatic repetition? Classic, distinctive and certainly memorable…

Oasis In Black & White Stripes
Outdoors In Black & White Striped Appeal
Entertaining: Events & Weddings In Black & White Striped Delight
Events & Outdoor Moments: In Black & White Stripe

Rethink the vivid pattern of black and white and consider with appreciation the visual, graphic delight that it offers. A pattern of bold elegance of classic interior style. Whether layered within the interior of our living spaces or within our world of the great outdoors, it is a bold but classic statement of decoration and design. Black and white stripes will remain a timeless addition that not only elevates an interior but also creates a striking addition to the outdoor world of living and entertaining. Onward in that…

Onward,

Kristin

On a personal note, I must add an ode to my own love of the stripe of black and white….

The Icon In The Original Black & White Striped Maillot Swimsuit: The Eternal Barbie

I will harken back to my youth and being inspired by the fashionable vintage 1959 Barbie, whose designs mirrored the great fashions of the 1950’s. Of course, the love of fashion! That black and white striped swimsuit! It was so distinctive and bold. It mesmerized me. In my late teens, I sought to own this representation of fashion, which graces my interior as an ode to style.

Lancôme Bag, Circa 1994

In my mid twenties, perhaps my love for the striped statement continued upon receiving a Lancôme zippered cosmetic bag while in the role of a Lancôme Beauty Advisor at Bloomingdales, Chicago, circa 1994. This glossy, quality bag remains with me today. Well over 30 years later, it continues to take a present position of prominence within my decor and has survived all of the edits of my life. Life is in the details. Perhaps it is a recollection, a reminder of not only a special era in my life, but also of the timelessness that it has represented to me. A theme that I have since curated as the years and decades have followed. And yes, images of my current interior, within a 700 Square foot city apartment, can be found blended within these compilations of bold, patterned style. It is a pattern of style, if you will, that I will continually hold to. Perhaps a personal statement of my style. With bold elegance, onward….Kristin.

The Fading Art Of Print Media: A Homage To Printed Fashion Magazines & Their Visual Art Within The Interior

The Art Of Printed Media: The Fashion Magazine

A homage to the Art of Print Media of fashionable tomes And of course, a nod to my personal recollection from the Eighties & Nineties and beyond…

But first, I cannot begin my homage to print without acknowledging the iconic Newsstands that once stood on the streets of New York City. On a recent trip to NYC I had a stark realization: The Newsstands, flanked with glossy magazines and newspapers, had disappeared. Having moved back to the East Coast recently, upon every trip to New York I had searched for them. But reality set in on my most recent venture onto the streets of Manhattan…the “Newstands” of yesteryear, that I recalled so fondly during the Nineties and early 2000’s, were gone. And I had missed it all during my absence.

Found Images: The Lost City Magazine Stand
The Fashion Magazine

It is stated these icons of the sidewalk and subway stations in NYC began to change in the “early aughts” (2000-2009) when the internet ushered in a dramatic shift and impact for newsstands.  And so it began…

In 2007, New York’s Mayor Bloomberg and his administration removed, what had been referred to as “beleaguered newsstands”, and attempted to “rationalize” their removal by replacing them with slick, metal, corporate-looking structures, which provided advertisement opportunities on their exteriors. Fast forward to present and these sleek, shiny metal boxes are now filled with candy and water bottles. Engraved on their side touts “NEWSPAPERS” of which there are none. At least, no longer. (I might add, to me, the only saving grace to these structures is the Chanel advertisements that adorned them). Thus, I began to ponder my recollections. And I realized what happened to those iconic stands in New York City. Of course I understood. But the stark reality of how time has changed society and my desire and personal need to present a gesture of respect, admiration, and tribute to the art of fashionable print began….

NYC: Candy and Water and No Magazines or Newspapers For Sale…November 2024

The stark awareness of the end of the individuality of the local city street hub brought sharp reality. Aside from the loss to the city streets, it had become about need. And demand. Print was no longer demanded. What I already knew became an even more stark realization. Newspapers would not be tucked under the arms of the city passerby’s any longer. Nor found, read and discarded, on the subway seats or at the train station, awaiting the next inquisitive individual to pick it up. No. The printed newspaper was no longer needed for information and connection to the rest of the world.  Nor was the glossy magazine. The “World Wide Web” had offered it all. A multitude of options, with the click of a button, which changed the speed in which we live. This has forever changed the reliance on tangible print that we hold in our hands. We no longer relied on print. Now we can stare, immersed, at a handheld screen. And the once vital fixtures of the city, newsstands, would soon be abandoned by an informational society that evolved away from “portable” print media. Thus, the sleek metal boxes that tout “Newspapers” would thus resort to become snack stations.

And in fashion? The reality, beyond the newstands of NYC vanishing, is that society also no longer relies on the printed fashion magazines as the source for the world of fashion and beauty

NYC “Newsstand”, November 2024. Madison Avenue/42nd Street/ Glossy Metal & Closed

Perhaps immediacy can also be blamed. Immediacy has surely stripped the allure of the printed fashion glossies as consumers have gravitated towards immediate gratification to source online fashion magazinesImmediacy versus awaiting the next issue of the printed magazine.  Real time fashion versus print journalism, which is based off lead times ahead of the actual print.  Alas, we are now a society of urgency. Direct and instant access. Oh, but there is something to be said about anticipation! Alas, we are now a society that lacks the thrill of awaiting that coveted magazine from the world of fashion on the shelves or in the mailbox. And, oh, the mailbox. As online subscription prices hover considerably below the cost of a printed subscription and offer “extra” digital perks, this has brought forth a decline of published fashion magazine subscribers.  Perhaps, like a domino effect, less print subscribers have brought forth a decline in paid advertisements due to increased advertising costs to those fashion and fragrance brands that fill the now scant printed pages.  Add to that the sustainability and paperless movement has perhaps had its own impact on print demand. Surely this has all added to the thinning spines of fashion in print. Sigh. Fashion magazines may not have disappeared, but they surely have gotten thinner. In addition, the recent current financial challenges of the world of luxury retail, and a shift of demand, has perhaps had its own impact on the printed pages of advertisements.  Again, sigh and onward.

But perhaps, a more vast hit on the glossies of fashion has been the rise of the age and power of social media and the fashion blogger. The rise of real-time fashion “perspective”. But let’s pause to reflect on the art of print. A fashion blogger or a social media influencer is not a fashion designer.  Nor an artful ad campaign.  It is not presenting fashion through the lens of an esteemed fashion photographer It is personal perspective displayed vs the art world of fashion presented, page after page, of layouts in glossy style. The art of print is not only visual, but tactile. Glossy pages that you feel and can tear out to add to your inspiration board…covers that rightfully could be framed as art. And oh, I have done just that. Alas, my love and appreciation of the printed copy endures…

Anna Wintour, Editor In Chief/VOUGE

“Well I think that is very important to make the print publications even more luxurious and even more special just to differentiate us from everything else that’s out there. Print publications have to be as luxurious an experience as possible. You have to feel it coming off the page. You have to see the photographs and pieces that you couldn’t possibly see anywhere else.”

– Anna Wintour, Editor In Chief, Vouge Magazine/2017 New York Magazine “The Cut” interview

In defense of and an homage to the printed glossy fashion magazines, there is no experience quite like the tangible fashion bound copy.  Surely, for those of us who love the glossies of fashion, can recall the printed volumes of style that we once anticipated and leafed through excitedly.  Print is different and it always will be vastly different from digital.  Digital can have its place, but it can never replace the tactile and tangible printed pages of fashion. A fashion magazine is an EXPERIENCE…and that, to me, is a little luxury I have always coveted…and always will….

Long Island: Arndt Stationary Store, 70 Main Street, Northport, New York (1967-1994) My Fashion Magazine Hub from the 1980’s-early 1990’s

On a personal note, my youth into adulthood was the world of fashion magazines. In my early teenage years I would save money to buy copies of Seventeen magazine. Living on Long Island, I would ride my bicycle to the local stationary store on “Main Street”. Oh, the recollections. In the preceding decades of the late 80’s, 90’s and early 2000’s of purchasing fashion magazines, it was truly an anticipated experience. To turn the cover of the glossies and leaf through a magazine was a moment I set aside to truly take in the experience of, perusing page by page, the art and artistry of the world of fashion. My recollections go back in time when fashion magazines that had girth to their spine…filled with page after page of glossy adds and fashion layouts in print. They were voluminous tomes back then.   I often recall the nineties and 2000’s when the highly anticipated “September Issue” of Vouge became like a “book”. With bated breath I would await, I might add. The 2012 September issue of Vouge would present a record breaking 916 pages…imagine. I remember that issue well. Five pounds of style. And it was style. Page after page of glorious fashion photography and poignant advertisements of the world of fashion, fragrance and style. Fast forward to just under 200 pages in 2024. Time. Nothing stays the same, but we can certainly recall, with appreciation, when fashion in print was revered and the tangible magazines were beacons of fashion

In the nineties, it was the world of the Supermodel, the fashion designers that dressed them and the iconic photographers that captured them.  It was fashion. The fashionable spreads put forth by the editors of Vouge, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and Mirabella enticed me monthly. Let’s not forget the relaunched 1993 oversized print publication of W magazine. Thrilling large format fashion, indeed! My subscriptions would vary through the years and would halt completely when the world of fashion no longer seemed to be about fashion but rather became about the world of Hollywood actresses and musicians replacing the model on the covers. The attention and spotlight shifted.  I unsubscribed.  I re-subscribed. And unsubscribed. But my reasons for doing so was because the world of fashion in these magazines of style went beyond fashion. Politics also filtered in. Slanted in favor, for certain. Fashionable print had changed. But through the years, I could not help but periodically purchase the glossies.  And when I did, they would certainly grace the interior of my spaces…whether stacked as an artful addition atop my coffee table or added to my collected copies of printed style. Framed covers? For certain. And when the occasional cover featured a fashion model? Or the return to the cover of the gracefully aging Supermodel? Delight. And each and every time, I truly embrace the pleasure of turning each shiny, printed page…

With that said, I continue on with a visual presentation of fashion magazines within the interior. Stacked and strewn, these glossies within our personal world, in images compiled, represent a moment in time. Like a small work of art, the addition of printed magazines within the interior certainly bring forth a current visual artistry to the coffee table. And beyond. Fashion in time. An appreciation to the world of printed fashion glossies within the interior….

Fashion In Time

My personal world and interiors are included throughout these compilations. Through the years and throughout the spaces I have lived. My appreciation of the glossy tomes of fashion throughout time. A love affair that had begun with my first issues of Seventeen magazine in the Eighties would evolve into the magazines of the esteemed fashion world and its designers. A personal evolution of personal style through the art of the printed magazine. The printed glossies of fashion are truly an experience in time that I will always hold appreciation for. Part of the recollections I now treasure. Oh, and for the record, I have resubscribed. And with that said, ONWARD to the enduring joy of print!

And one last nod…my personal past…

My Interior World: Glossy Pages Of Fashion Magazines 1989/1990 College Dorm Wall Decor
& Apartment Interior 1993
May 1991/My Interior World/Long Island.
Vouge/Kim Bassinger by Herb Ritts
My Interior World/Long Island
Karen Mudler by Patrick Dermachelier/Vouge August 1991

A homage to the art of fashion print media. Indeed, to my love of the printed copy of fashion…Onward!

Kristin

June 2025. My Apartment. VOUGE.

100 Years of A Modern Icon: 1925-2025/ Marcel Breuer’s “Wassily Chair”

Model B3/ Wassily Chair, Circa 1925

The Wassily Chair. 1925-2025. One hundred years. A timeless masterpiece that has endured as a coveted seat and art form of distinction within the interior and the world of design…

For 100 years, this icon of Modern design has remained relevant in design and in demand across the world throughout the decades that have followed its revolutionary arrival.  The Wassily chair, originally known as the Model B3, is celebrated for its design innovation. The first tubular steel frame chair has earned its distinction as an instantly recognizable, artful statement in any interior space.

The Wassily chair embodies a universal design philosophy and combines the core elements of the Bauhaus Modern design movement in furniture: functionality and practicality. With its simplicity, clean lines, functional design, streamlined and striking frame, it pairs with the visual and physical weight of lightness. Stripped down to basic elements, the chair follows a Bauhaus rule in furniture design, that Form will follow function, dictated by purpose. Form and function, indeed. An ageless and lasting masterpiece that has endured to grace interiors with its modern aesthetic elegance for over 100 years..

“The pursuit of functionality and simplicity couples with aesthetic elegance”

And, oh, the visual distinction of this Mid-Century Modern design classic club chair of bent tubes of steel with a chrome frame and belted strapping! A “skeletal supporting structure” that certainly followed the premise “Less is more”. Aside from its groundbreaking design, its craftsmanship, with durable and high quality materials, has added to its being coveted for 100 years. And onward, it will continue to do just that in the decades that follow…

To understand the significance, beauty and modern elegance of the Wassily chair, and its creation in time and place, is to understand the philosophy behind the movement of the Bauhaus in art and architecture. In a homage to Marcel Breuer and the celebratory nod to 100 years of the Model B3 chair…so begins the story of a chair…

Marcel Breuer/B3 Chair/1925

The Bauhaus School of Art and Architecture (Bauhaus, “building house” /  Bauhütte (constuction/building hut modernized to haus) was founded in 1919 in Weimar, Germany by Walter Gropius (1883-1969/German born American architect). Gropius is regarded as one of the pioneering masters of modernist architecture. Founded after WWI the Bauhaus, a state- sponsored school, was in operation from 1919 until 1933 when it was closed by the Nazi’s. The progressive and innovative school, uniting fine arts and applied arts, architecture, craft and design, was considered radical for the time. It can be said that one of the goals of the Bauhaus was to “reimagine the material world to reflect the unity of all the arts“. Arts and industry unified in a flexible artist community. A gathering of industrialists, architects, designers and artists that would certainly make an indelible mark on design in the world for decades to follow.

Walter Gropius/German American Architect/Bauhaus Founder (1883-1969)

The objective of the Bauhaus was to pair aesthetics with function, with a focus on mass production, utilizing new types of methods and technologies being developed in Germany at that time.   The Bauhaus sought four elements: Simplicity (simple, straightforward lines and geometric shapes), Functionality (useful and practical), Materials (use of basic materials, such as glass, steel, plywood and plastic), Color (primary colors (black, white or gray) and Mass Production (designed specifically to be mass produced).

1919 Bauhaus First Pamphlet/Woodcut/Lyonel Feininger
Lyonel Feininger/German American Painter/ Printmaking instructor at Bauhaus

In 1919, Lyonel Feininger (1871-1956/German American painter and a leading promotor of Expressionism) who taught at the Bauhaus from 1919-1932 and was the master of the school’s printmaking workshop, illustrated the woodcut for the preliminary and first pamphlet design for the Bauhaus manifesto written by Gropius. The woodcut was and expressionist ‘cathedral’ that “illustrated the manifesto’s vision of a total work of art that combined the arts of painting, sculpture, and architecture“. This Manifesto of Bauhaus presented a call for architects, artists and artisans to gather as partners. As the name Bauhaus plays on the German word Bauhütte, “the cathedral references this workshop where the builders of the great medieval cathedrals worked together: quarrymen, plasterers, mortar-makers, stone-cutters, masons, and others“. In this way, The term Bauhaus refers to a workshop, the sense of community and the equality of art and craft under the guidance of architecture, as cultivated in medieval cathedral workshops”. The three stars that surround the cathedral spire, which flow into each other, represented the three arts of painting, sculpture, and architecture.

With this background of history presented, we continue on to the story of the chair and those that will remain a part of it…

It is said that Hungarian émigrés were critical to the development of the Bauhaus in Germany. Marcel Breuer was one of those émigrés. In 1919 Marcel Breuer, (1902-1981/Hungarian-German modernist architect, Sculptor and designer), at the age of 18, studied at the Academy of Arts in Vienna. However, within his first year there, Breuer obtained a pamphlet of the Bauhaus Manifesto and within that year would became one of the first and youngest students at the Bauhaus. Quickly recognizing Breuer’s significant talent, Gropius, who would become a lifelong mentor to Breuer, quickly promoted him to the head of the carpentry shop.

“The artist works with the highest level of feeling. The technician works with the highest level of logic” – Marcel Breuer

In 1925 the Bauhaus school moved to Dessau, Germany. The “industrial newness” of the roaring 1920’s would spark an intense interest by Breuer. It is here that he would first design the Model B3 chair, the history of which began with a bicycle. While in Dessau, Breuer purchased his first bicycle to tour the city, a German Adler bicycle. Fascinated with the strong, yet light construction, of the tubular steel frame, particularly the curve of the bent steel handlebars, an idea was born.  Handlebar inspiration. Who knew? Recognizing the potential of this material and its ability to be bent would perhaps start the wheels of inspiration in the mind of this modern design genius…

1926/Adler Bike/Germany

Breuer began constructing his first prototype in his private workshop. Initially, he ordered steel tubes, bent to his specifications, directly from the steel manufacturing company, Mannesmannröhren-Werke (German-Austrian Mannesmann Pipe-Works Joint-Stock Company).  Interestingly, the steel tubes had the same dimensions as his Adler bike- 20 mm. However, instead of pre-bent rods, Breuer decided to have the steel bent in his workshop with the assistance of a plumber skilled in the craft of welding.  What would result was a large, square “club chair” with four legs.  Breuer is said to not have been pleased with the stiffness of the prototype and would continue to develop and experiment, replacing the welded seams with bolted joints, and closing the back of the chair, which was originally open.  There would be five versions until its final design. The final version, which formed the basis for mass production of the B3 chair, was constructed of a total of 9 pieces of chrome plated tubular steel bolted together by visible black screw fittings, chrome caps on ends, a continuous backrest and a “Sled” shape bottom. Ease of movement was a key addition in the practicality and design, for certain.

Lucia Moholy, Bauhaus Photographer & Publications editor

Lucia Moholy (1894-1989/photographer and publications editor) the wife of Bauhaus instructor and photographer, László Moholy-Nagy,and was considered of the early 20th century’s most gifted photographers and a key member of the Bauhaus. Moholy documented the architecture and products of the Bauhaus and introduced their ideas, aiding in creating the image of the school to the Post-war world. An image of Breuer’s B3 chair, photographed by Moholy, appeared in a local newspaper, simply entitled “Marcel Breuer neuer Stahl” (newer steel). The interest that was sparked from the chair perhaps brought furthered interest by Breuer to continue experimenting on its form.

Wassily Kandinsky/Russian Painter & Art Theorist, Foundations Instructor at Bauhaus


Wassily Kandinsky (1866-1944/Russian painter and art theorist /pioneer of abstraction in Western art) was a colleague and friend of Breuer at the Bauhaus.  The interest and praise received by Kandinsky was perhaps the strongest motivation for Breuer to continue experimenting on the chair.  Kandinsky is even said to have received a prototype from Breuer.  A lasting connection that would resurface in time….

Although this chair is known for its leather strapping variation, the Wassily chair original strapping material was constructed in fabric strapping, not leather. The original design used Eisengarn, a strong and durable, light-reflecting, waxed cotton thread that was invented and manufactured in Germany in the mid-19th century. Margaretha Reichardt, “Grete” (1907-1984/Textile artist, weaver and graphic designer) a student at the Bauhaus weaving shop, collaborated with Breuer and experimented and improved the quality of the Eisengarn thread (“Iron Yarn”, also known as Glanzgarn (‘”gloss”or “glazed'” yarn.) Reichardt’s improvements also gave the fabric an almost metallic sheen. Its use became renowned in the woven cloth and strapping material used for the tubular chairs designed by Breuer.

Margaretha Reichardt, Textile Designer at Bauhaus

With this new fabric, Breuer began a small scale production in his workshop. It is interesting to note that the production of the B3 chair was not a project of a part of the Bauhaus school, but rather created and produced independently and with Breuer’s own financial investment in the materials. Breuer wisely copyrighted and obtained rights to the profits.

1927-1929/Berlin,Germany

With this new production, the chairs were said to have been sold to those that had inquired through the Moholy’s newspaper advertisement. However, the rise in demand perhaps prompted his Hungarian “compatriot”, Kalman Lengyel (1889-1945) (Hungarian Furniture designer/Interior Designer) to propose to Breuer a joint business venture to manufacture and promote the tubular furniture that Breuer designed. The company “Standard Möbel” resulted and was founded in Berlin, Germany in 1927.  A company with a short lived duration. Lengyel provided the finances and artisans while Breuer supplied the most of the 20+ furniture models. (Of note, no image of Lengyel could be found). In 1927 the first catalogue of “Standard Möbel” contained, almost exclusively, designs by Breuer, numbered and marked with a “B”. The second catalogue was printed in 1928 under the title “Das neue Möbel” (New Furniture) and included four designs that are marked with a “L” for “Lengyel”. The designs were initially sold under the names Stahlrohrmöbel System Breuer and Breuer Metallmöbel. Of note, It is said that the main buyers of the chair at this time were the Bauhaus itself, filling the school with the tubular designs of Breuer.

Herbert Bayer, Graphic Designer/Bauhaus

The 1927 catalog was designed by Herbert Bayer (1900-1985/Austrian-American graphic designer, painter, photographer, sculptor, art director, environmental and interior designer, and architect) who had studied under Wassily Kandinsky at the Bauhaus. This catalog offered an overview of the different models by Breuer.

1927 Catalog /Herbert Bayer/Bauhaus Press
“Breuer Metal Furniture”/Herbert Bayer

In 1927, Anton Lorenz (1891-1913/Hungarian entrepreneur and designer) became the managing director of “Standard Möbel. As one of the first to recognize the potential of this new type of furniture, Lorenz is credited as having helped bring the promise of tubular steel furniture to life”. Lorenz aggressively pursued patents and established a network of “Rights of Use” for the new tubular steel furniture.

Anton Lorenz/Designer & Business Manager/Standard Möbel

Thonet, having already been renowned for their bentwood furniture, saw potential in the new tubular steel technology that Breuer pioneered. Breuer is said to have signed an agreement in 1928, giving Thonet all the access of the manufacturing rights to produce and sell his steel furniture, thus becoming the sole producer. In the Summer of 1929, Lorenz sold “Standard Möbel” to Thonet, setting the design stage for the market launch of a tubular steel collection.

With the release of their first catalogue with Breuer’s furniture, Thonet would manufacture its own variation of the B3 chair in which a bowed crossbar ran beneath the seat.  However, it is believed that Breuer was not involved in these alterations. In addition, Thonet’s version was not well received and was removed from production during WWII. This removal perhaps contributed to it remaining the rarest version of the Wassily Chair today. While Breuer worked with Thonet on new tubular steel designs, Lengyel would create his own company, Standard-Möbel, Lengyel & Company, that same year.

German Thonet Advertisement, Wassily Chair ( STAHL= STEEL) 1929
1930/1931 THONET Card Catalogue/All Models Designed By Breuer For Thonet
Dino Gavina/Designer, Entreprenuer & Publisher

Enter the 1960’s….

Dino Gavina (1922-2007/Italian entrepreneur and designer) founded a design firm and furniture production company, Gavina SpA in 1960 in Bologna, Italy. Known as one of the founding fathers of Italian Design, Gavina was visionary artist and trailblazing entrepreneur of modern design. Gavina SpA manufactured the work of designers from influential Italian modernist design scene of the 1950’s and 1960’s.   This would include the work of Marcel Breuer and the Wassily chair two years later.

In 1962, Gavina met Breuer in New York City and acquired the license for Breuer’s tubular work, including the B3 chair. Nearly forty years later. While doing research of the chair for marketing purposes, the connection between Wassily Kandinsky and Marcel Breuer was realized. This connection and friendship between the two artists is perhaps a homage and tribute to their history as well as to the great Russian painter himself, with the name change to “Wassily”. In his reissue of the chair, Gavina not only changed the name but made a significant change to the chair itself, offering the original fabric strapping but also offering it in a black leather strapping version. Gavina’s changes would credit him with the most recognized version of the chair today.

In 1968 Knoll International purchased the Gavina Group of Bologna, incorporating all of Breuer’s design into the Knoll catalog of designs. Today, Knoll still owns the trademark. As the original patent designs have expired, reproductions continue to be produced around the world by manufacturers, marketed with various names. 100 years since its inception into the world of design. Remarkable.

Knoll International, 1968
Knoll International, NYNY

Perhaps a finale, of this historical journey of a chair, is to share the words of Marcel Breuer in his summation of its creation in an interview with a Knoll historian (Knoll.com)…

Marcel Breuer described how he came to begin experimenting with bent tubular steel while at the Bauhaus:

“At that time I was rather idealistic. 23 years old. I made friends with a young architect, and I bought my first bicycle. I learned to ride the bicycle and talked to this young fellow and told him that the bicycle seems to be a perfect production because it hasn’t changed in the last twenty, thirty years. It is still the original bicycle form. He said, “Did you ever see how they make those parts? How they bend those handlebars? You would be interested because they bend those steel tubes like macaroni.”

“This somehow remained in my mind, and I started to think about steel tubes which are bent into frames—probably that is the material you could use for an elastic and transparent chair. Typically, I was very much engaged with the transparency of the form.

“That is how the first chair was made…I realised that the bending had to go further. It should only be bent with no points of welding on it so it could also be chromed in parts and put together. That is how the first Wassily was born. I was myself somewhat afraid of criticism. I didn’t tell anyone I was doing these experiments actually. [Wassily] Kandinsky, who came by chance to my studio when the first chair was brought in, said, “What’s this?” He was very interested and then the Bauhaus got very interested in it. A year later, I had furnished the whole Bauhaus with this furniture.” – Marcel Breuer

Marcel Breuer: Bauhaus Visionary
MOMA Exhibit: July 22–September 15, 1981

“I am as much interested in the smallest detail as in the whole structure” – Marcel Breuer

In the interior….

The beauty and simplicity of this chair of elemental lines is striking in any interior. Offering visual negative space in between the chrome plated steel frame and seat, the Wassily chair offered the design world only the bare essentials to create a seat. (As a side note of interest, the padded “Club” chair would arrive during the early 20th century, originating in France in 1929. The “fauteuil confortable” which was designed for gentleman’s clubs, perhaps alluding to the name. Surely it was a padded version inspired by Breurer’s classic 1925 steel frame, free from padding?). Thought provoking, indeed.

The iconic Wassily chair, found within the interior today, proves its enduring appeal within a myriad of designed spaces….

“Two years ago, when I saw the finished version of my first steel club armchair, I thought that this, out of all my work, would bring me the most criticism. It is my most extreme work both in its outward appearance and in the use of materials; it is the least artistic, the most logical, the least ‘cosy’ and the most mechanical” Marcel Breuer

Who knew? Yet what an enduring and profound significance in design his creation has held for over 100 years. The Wassily chair remains his most iconic and impactful. But beyond the chair of tubular steel, his prolific output in the world of furniture and architectural design that would follow in the Post-war decades continued to be defined by Modernism.

For certain, it can be said that the Wassily chair was groundbreaking and revolutionary. Breuer’s innovative, functionalist B3 design with its artistic aesthetic will continue to remain a legendary, classic and modern chair in the world of design and modern art. It is truly a symbol of the Bauhaus era, proving that good design is timeless and can last for generations.   Onward in that.

Cheers to 100 years of a definitive classic of Modern Design of timeless elegance!

Onward,

Kristin

PS: To say I have fallen in love with this chair, while researching and preparing this post, is an understatement.  Truth be told, I fell down the “rabbit hole” of deeper interest in connecting the history and visual representations, that are part of the history and fabric of this iconic chair. Moving beyond a brief summation and images, for certain. A firm believer of “less is more” and “simplicity in elegance”, how this chair became formed, and the connective influences in time and place, are key in appreciation. And of course, the modern genius on the part of Marcel Breuer and the influences of the Bauhaus movement. I have gained not only a more intense appreciation but a personal quest to one day own one of these iconic classics.   One day….and style it in my interior world, I shall…

Homage To A Fashion Legend: Editor & Stylist, Polly Mellen

Polly Mellen

A homage to an icon and legend, Polly Mellen, who has passed away at the age of 100 on December 12, 2024…

Polly Mellen’s tenure as an American fashion editor and stylist was truly legendary. Known for her bold vision, eye for detail and fearless and transformative creativity, she will undoubtedly continue to endure in the halls of fashion to inspire those that understand and appreciate a force that stylistically shaped fashion…

“Polly Mellen, the irrepressible and indomitable fashion editor who was the last link to a long golden age when fashion editors were fearsome creatures who ruled by fiat, and a photograph in Vogue magazine, where Ms. Mellen worked for more than a quarter century, moved not just markets but the culture” -New York Times

Poly Mellen. An Icon in Fashion.
Fashion Editor and Stylist, Polly Mellen

“When I was quite young, somebody asked me what I wanted to do when I grew up and I just said, ‘I would like to work on a fashion magazine” – Polly Mellen

“My life has been a visual privilege”– Polly Mellen

Born in Hartford, Connecticut, Harriette Allen “Polly” Mellen moved to New York City in 1949 and became “salesgirl” at Lord & Taylor but would soon become part of the world of window display as a “Display Designer” and transition in that role for Saks Fifth Avenue. She would swiftly move to become a fashion editor under Editor Sally Kirkland at Mademoiselle, who would secure and interview for Mellen at Harper’s Bazaar. In 1950, Mellen was hired by Harper’s Bazaar and worked under Editor Carmel Snow and Art Director Alexey Brodovich. But Mellen’s career and rise in fashion would truly begin in 1951 when she became a stylist protégé for Harper’s Bazaar Fashion Director, the esteemed Diana Vreeland. In 1962, Vreeland left Harpers Bazaar to become Vouge magazine’s Editor in Chief in 1963. Mellen was brought to Vouge by Vreeland who would be abruptly “succeeded” in 1971 by Grace Mirabella, Vreeland’s former assistant. In 1979, under Editor in Chief, Mirabella, Mellen became the Fashion Director of Vouge. Twenty eight years of creative vision and legendary influence, indeed…

For more than 50 years she served as the fashion editor of Harpers Bazaar and Vouge. With her signature bob hairstyle, genuine enthusiasm and fearless spontaneity, she was said to have been always in search for what’s next. Credited as direct and energetic, she was continually a front row fixture at fashion shows. Said to have had an innate sense of being able to recognize the essence of a collection and what worked about it, her discernment in fashion was exceptional.

50 Years In Fashion: Polly Mellen

Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief of the American edition of Harper’s Bazaar from 1934 to 1958, to Polly Mellen: “You never know where the next talent is. Open your eyes have a little humility and let go of your ego”.

Perhaps that wise insight would lead Mellen to become an advocate for up and coming designers. Either way, it possibly became the very fabric of her perspective…

“What’s hard is that you keep your eyes open and there can be no laziness. It’s not a matter of who you are or what you are. It’s not a matter of seniority- it’s a matter of performance” – Polly Mellen

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Quintessential Tastemaker: Polly Mellen

Fashion Legend: Polly Mellen

Mellen was credited as one who pushed boundaries with fashion in photography. Having worked alongside and collaborated with the greatest photographers of her time, the images that resulted have marked fashion history forever. Her editorial styling is said to have shaped modern fashion. Collaborations with Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Irving Penn resulted in fashionable images of high art that were groundbreaking in their time. Years later, her collaborations would include Patrick Demarchelier, Steven Meisel, Mario Testino and Steven Klein. Creative brilliance through iconic photographic and stylistic imagery, indeed….

“The Great Fur Caravan”, Japan/Model Verushka/Richard Avedon-Photographer/Polly Mellen, Fashion Director/ 1966 Vouge

Mellen’s influence during the 1960’s is said to be reflective of the bold shifts of change in society with ready-to-wear. Fashion in the moment, indeed…

“My first assignment was a whole new level: five weeks inn Japan with Avedon and Verushcka. It was the most expensive shoot Condé Nast ever did”– Polly Mellen (Vouge)



The Great Fur Caravan’‘ in Japan/Model Verushka/Richard Avedon,Photographer/Polly Mellen, Fashion Editor/ 1966 Vouge
Vouge, May 1975/Bathouse Sitting”/ Deborah Turbeville, photographer/ Polly Mellen Fashion Editor
Vouge, May 1975/ Helmut Newton, Photographer/Polly Mellen, Fashion Editor

The Story of O, appeared in the same issue as the Bathouse sitting, both styled by Mellen.

“Extraordinary” Corporate Photography Director/Condé Nast ArchiveIvan Shaw, described Mellen’s twin stories in May 1975. Something that “can only be attributed to Mellen’s astonishing mix of creative brilliance and unwavering courage.

 Vouge, October 1981/model and actress Nastassja Kinski/Richard Avedon, Photographer/Polly Mellen, Vouge Director

Of interest, in regards to the iconic Avedon snake photograph, Mellen stated to have had one regret with this photographic shoot: “I wish I hadn’t put that bracelet on her”. Although she would later feel that it was too distracting, that white Patricia von Musulin bracelet is said to have perhaps become a visual reminder that this was, in essence, a fashion shoot. And art. An iconic original image in time. Bracelet and all…

Polly Mellen to Vera Wang: ” I always worry I’m only as good as my last set of pictures.”

“I have always had an inferiority complex and I still do. I’m never completely sure I’ve done the right thing” – Polly Mellen, at age 88.

It is difficult to believe that such an icon of bold force and seeming fearlessness would admit to having an inferiority complex. Humility, indeed. She certainly carried the wisdom of Carmel Snow with her throughout her career. We all tend to question ourselves. And how refreshing it is to learn of humility from such an impactful force in fashion? But passion would take over for her and surpass her uncertainties. “My yen for fashion had strongly started” – Polly Mellen

November 1989 /Vogue/Darryl Hannah Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier/Fashion Editor,Polly Mellen
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Polly Mellen: A Vibrant Presence In Fashion

When Anna Wintour brought Grace Coddington in as the second creative director at American Vogue, Polly Mellen left the magazine and became the creative director at the new Condé Nast beauty magazine Allure, from 1991 to 1999.  She is credited with giving Allure a distinctive modern edge over that span of time.

In 1993, at the age of 68, Mellen would receive a lifetime achievement award from the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc.). Shortly after that achievement acknowledgement, after years of her quest of discovering new and inspiring young fashion talent and designers, Mellen would retire from styling in 2001.

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Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista And Naomi Campbell: Supers & Polly Mellen

In regards to her retirement, Mellen is quoted as saying “I really didn’t want to do mediocre stuff, which is what a lot of the projects I was offered were. I said to myself, ‘That’s it. Go to the country, be with your family, and live a life, rather than mediocrity.’” Mediocrity. That is so impactful and bold that she would choose to live life rather than succumbing to mediocrity. Onward in that wisdom, for all of us…

On Polly Mellen…..

Anna Wintour, Vogue’s editor-in-chief: fashion’s greatest advocate”. “Polly was a mercurial grand dame with boundless energy and a deep core for her work and for the creative process. She was an adored figure at Vouge and a huge part of our history”

Grace Coddington: “ Mellen’s energy and enthusiasm for modernity helped bring about cultural advances that are now taken for granted.  An unstoppable force of energy and inspiration“.

Richard Avedon:   “From Vreeland’s rib came Polly Mellen,”  “From that day on, Eden never looked better”.    ”The most creative sittings editor I ever worked with”.

Calvin Klein: “The quintessential fashion editor”

Geoffrey Beene: “The industry’s cheerleader”

Issac Mizrahi: “She’s never lost her enthusiasm, in a field where everyone seems so jaded

Vera Wang: “She was a force to be reckoned with and never relented on her standards 

Vera Wang: “Back when I started working, fashion was for the very few, the very rich, and the very stylish.  Polly Mellen bridged all those gaps“. “A lot of people don’t know what a sittings editor really is. I didn’t know when I went to Vogue, but Polly told me it’s to make the subject feel the most beautiful, the most unique, the most perfect version of themself. You give them that confidence as a model or supermodel. Her passion and eye for fashion were legendary, but so was her work ethic. But most of all, her love for Vouge”

Polly Mellen

My approach was very often a bit avant-garde, shall we say. And because of that, I was an editor who was different– Polly Mellen

I loved the street. I felt that there was so much going on in the street that gave me insight into real life” Polly Mellen

Fashion, for me, is moving things around, not buying into the package and having a certain amount of individualization – Polly Mellen

The Legendary Polly Mellen: “A Troubadour in the field of Fashion”
The Impeccable and unrelenting original Polly Mellen 1924-2024

You have to dare” – Polly Mellen

“I don’t believe in failure. You learned something from it” -Polly Mellen.

If you are curious, doubt can be erased. Doubt is a negative feeling. It’s much better to feel rosy and look forward to tomorrow…” – Polly Mellen

“If you’re going to do it, do it all the way” -Polly Mellen

With her minimalist style and her bold and fearless passion, Mellen will not be forgotten by the world of fashion. Classic elegance mixed with avant-garde edge, her sense of true modernity and resiliency in purpose will live on in influencing the world of fashion. The end of an Era. But the marker of fashion’s moment in time that will endure to inspire.

On a personal note, in my own history of delving into the glossies of fashion, it was the late Eighties and Nineties that I fondly look back upon. Alas, nostalgia. And a world before the internet. I lived it. I inhaled it. In my twenties during that time, I poured over Mirabella, Harpers Bazaar and Vouge. And then Allure. I read. I saw. And I knew her name in the credits of the glossies. I recognized the distinctive profile of her face. That distinctive white bob. I remember. That time period was special. I was caught up in it with intense interest. It was truly unique and at the time it was exciting and fresh. And looking back, I recall why, now having realized, that Polly Mellen and her creative eye paired with the collaboration of the most iconic photographers of that time, are part of what I recall. Glossies to revere. Forever in time. But always forward….

“I love the memories, but I also love the present and the future. There are always people who want to compare, to talk about what Vogue was then and how it isn’t that today. But nothing is. Let’s not be nostalgic. Let’s not talk about what it used to be. Always forward” –Polly Mellen, May 2024

Polly Mellen

One last nod of credit to this icon of fashion’s world, is perhaps her quote that firmly marries my personal fashionable love of the timeless denim…stated so perfectly:

“You are never out of style in a pair of blue jeans. I don’t care what anyone says” – Polly Mellen, 2002

Onward in that. And thank you, Polly Mellen. Forever to inspire, indeed…

Onward and Forward,

Kristin

November in New York…

Late November in New York

Although leaves still clung to the trees, late November in New York takes on more of a holiday spin. And delightful and thrilling, it always is. New York. The city that never sleeps. The city that ignites interest and renews with a sense of energy and excitement. For there truly is no city quite like New York. To walk the streets, to ride the subway and venture through the streets, capturing images (via an iPhone, I must admit)….is thrilling. Architectural candy for the eye and changing fashionable scenes set before one…albeit a few Holiday windows stating a “Holiday Experience Coming Soon”. The Holiday’s were certainly about to set upon New York City. And on the cusp of that…a photographic journey follows.

Louis Vuitton: Towering Wrapped “Leather Trunks”

A nod to Louis Vuitton/NYC…..

The iconic Fifth Avenue Louis Vuitton Flagship at the corner of 57th Street is an impressive visual delight. Towering “Trunks” with realistic details and embossed logo were surreal and a grand visual masterpiece. To see the details furthered the visual impact. Stunning. A visual merchandising masterpiece. Underneath which a massive renovation of the French luxury house is underway. A “temporary” emporium opened on Friday, November 15th across the street at 6 East 57th Street, photographed below.

Of interest, the holiday facade gracing the 57th Street store is said to be a nod to the 1900 Paris Universal Exhibition“, of which the Grand Palais was built for. Georges Vuitton was tasked with organizing the “Travel and leather goods” and it is stated that he presented trunks and travel items under a carousel. Thus, the motif of the ostrich and giraffe, carnival lights and the iconic Vuitton monogram flowers is certainly a nod to the heritage of the House of Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton/ 6 East 57th Street “Temporary” maison
Fifth Avenue
Architecture and Fashion: The Streets of New York
City Interest And For the Love Of The Yellow Taxi
The Iconic NYC French Restaurant: Balthazar/SOHO

Perhaps it can be said that a mere glass of wine at the iconic French restaurant, Balthazar, can be memorable in and of itself. And that it was…a destination that shall remain on my NYC list of extraordinary places. French love in New York City…

New York City Points Of Interest
City Interest
The Iconic Macy’s/Herald Square
New York City…
New York
Architecture and Holiday Red in NYC
75 Spring Street/SOHO: The Newest Jcrew Shopping Destination

A nod to Jcrew. And 75 Spring Street. Truth be told, I have been a brand follower since 1989. My love of Jcrew through the years deserves it’s own future blog post. For now, I will share that one of my destinations in NYC was to see the newest SOHO store, which opened this Spring. With the garments set like a collection, the interior itself, complete with a grand spiral staircase, with painted navy woodwork and chrome railing, set an impression of a very different, elevated shopping experience. And one in which I intend to return to…

Flatiron District/ NYC
Architecture In The Flatiron District/Jcrew Flatiron
New York…Visual Interest Abounds
Points Of Visual Interest, New York City
The Flatiron Building And Bryant Park
Chelsea Market/Gucci Chelsea
New York City: It Is A Love Affair
Architecture And Fashion/ The Pending Arrival Of Dior
Captures Of New York City
Fifth Avenue: Cartier, Burberry And Saks Fifth Avenue
New York, New York
Wall Street/Manhattan/Delmonico’s
Visuals Of NYC
New York City
Architectural City: New York
For The Love Of….New York

A photographic journey through New York…through my eyes. Complitations of images of moments of photographic inspiration from all over New York City. If one was to say that a renewed sense of energy and appreciation can come through walking the streets of a city-New York continues to do just that. Every time. The intense but exhilarating reminder that life is constantly moving forward. In the reality of the vastness and whir of New York City, one is reminded that we are all moving in a direction, each and every one of us. With plans. With dreams. With hopes. And may it always be that we are moving forward with appreciation of the world that surrounds. Onward in that.

Onward,

Kristin

Onward, Kristin

Homage To “Greatest Of All Time”: The 90’s Supermodels Return To The Cover Of Vouge

American Vouge & British Vouge/September Issue, 2023

I would be remiss to not acknowledge the return of the original Supermodels to grace the cover of THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE of Vouge. Both the American Vouge and British Vouge united to bring these four together, decades later. 2023. Gracing the glossies, once again, it is with experience of time and years that each of these women, who have impacted not only the world of fashion, but beyond, are paid a tribute to in both the US and the UK issues. Capturing the coveted cover of Vouge’s most important editorial calendar month-September- is certainly an impactful statement. As these four women have and will always be Supermodels. Wisdom, poise and grace

American Vouge, September Issue 2023
British Vouge, September Issue 2023

“They weren’t born into this. And they surpassed the world they entered into” – Roger Ross Williams, Director, “The Super Models”

In the late 1980’s to mid 1990’s, the Supermodels embarked upon the world of fashion as a new era of modeling hit the covers and pages of fashion’s glossies. Said to have been “A cultural moment that became singularly important” in fashion, the Rare combination of extraordinary photogenic features, born-with it self confidence, intuitive style, intense curiosity, and utterly bananas work ethic flipped the switch for the industry (Brian Grazer, Director, “The Super Models”). All of which brought these models into stardom, both in pop culture and in page after page of fashion’s archives. Dubbed an “Elite clique”, they were business women in the art of their craft. And they were incredible. Rightly stated by Sally Singer for Vouge: Women whose professional lives were once defined by supersonic itinerancy….” Indeed, it was a Supersonic embarkment upon fashion that carried them through that decade.

The Iconic photographic images of that time will always live on as iconic moments of a time in fashion. Why so impactful to me? I was their age at the time when they entered the world of fashion and hit Superstardom. I grew with them. And I viewed their rise…and fall from the covers of fashion. It was a world before internet. And the magazines of fashion were my only connective to the world I coveted. The art of the model, fashion and the art of photography. Now in my 50’s, like them, my nod and homage to them, and to the world of fashion that catapulted them, and to the Era in fashion that they reigned over, I applaud them all. And Vouge. For uniting them together, once again, to grace a cover and impact us all. Once again. A return to fashion as fashion, indeed….

The Original Supermodels, 2023

To pay tribute to these Supermodels, I cannot help but delve back to the time when they were replaced. In the late 90’s the world of American fashion switched gears to a new focus in print in hopes to sell more magazines: celebrities. Celebrities replaced not only the Supermodels from the covers but practically all models. Replaced by the world of Hollywood and the music industry (and eventually even the faces of politics). It was a shift. And in my opinion, a sell out. Compromising the integrity of fashion and the founding purpose of the fashion magazine. I remember it well. I was disheartened. I recall that each new month my hopes that a model would once again grace the cover of fashion’s glossies and fashion would return to fashion. Alas, the reign of the Supermodels, or models & fashion, for that matter, had ended. And I have always looked back at it fondly. For it was a time when fashion was about fashion. Fashion magazines were about the designer. The Clothes. The Models that wore the clothes and the photographer that captured them. It was a combined art form. And it suddenly became a mere celebrity obsession and the “Illusion of substance”. As a result, in the late 90’s I had let my magazine subscriptions expire and would merely walk past the magazine stands, wistfully, once I verified that the cover was yet another “celebrity”.

“Trading on Hollywood magic: Celebrities push models off women’s magazine covers”. – The New York Times, January 30, 1999

Interesting to add…in the words of Linda Evangelista, New York Times, January 30, 1999:

”The term ‘supermodel’ is a press-induced word,” she said through a spokeswoman. ”We have never called ourselves supermodels.” She added, ”I feel the readers are more intelligent and appreciate beauty no matter what the females’ traditional career may be.” She noted that if models are not appearing on American covers, they can still be found on the majority of European and Asian magazine covers”

And yes, I had found myself seeking and purchasing the European glossies…and in fact, they became and are undoubtedly my favorite covers. Framed. Many a cover, and photographic fashion spreads, of these Supermodels, I have saved from that Era in time. A few of fashion’s glossy pages and poignant covers that endure to inspire me. Time and place. There is a part of me that will always remain in the world of the nineties. When fashion was fashion. Again, the art of the designer. The art of the photographer. And the art of the model. Onward.

American Vouge, January 1990

And of the legendary image that is said to have ushered in the era of the Supermodel? The iconic image, captured by photographer, Peter Lindberg, grouped Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turligton and Cindy Crawford together on the glossy cover of January 1990’s issue of Vouge. 1990 and 2023 covers. Now, 33 years later, the “Greatest of All Time” (although with the loss of Tatjana Patitz, who passed earlier this year) as in the 90’s, this 2023 September issue is indeed a homage to these icons that will withstand time. Is it 90’s nostalgia? I think not. Certainly, not for me. Rather, it is part of fashion’s legacy. Where it once was and where it will never return again. But, that said, there is still hope. A glimmer, perhaps, that the icons of today’s top models will find their way to the cover with more frequency. Onward in that!

Onward,

Kristin

PS: For the record…as the years and decades have past, I have gone in and out of subscriptions of fashion’s glossies. That said, upon learning the Supermodels would return to the cover of Vouge, I re-subscribed to American Vouge, once again. Perhaps it has always just been a love affair. Onward in the love of fashion!

“Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty”, The MET 2023

Karl Lagerfeld MET Exhibit 2023
The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, New York City
July 14, 2023

On the closing weekend of the Costume Institutes Spring exhibition, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty, at the MET (Metropolitan Museum Of Art, New York City), I took in, in awe, the vast work of the iconic and prolific designer. (The Exhibit hosted the MET GALA and ran from May 5- July 16).

“Focussing on the designer’s stylistic vocabulary as expressed in aesthetic themes that appear time and again in his fashions from the 1950’s to his final collection in 2019″The Met, Press Release

Of those designs included in this exhibit, in which Lagerfeld served as the Creative Director, are the following: Fendi: 1965-2019, Chloe: 1974-1983 & 1992-1997, Chanel: 1982-2019, and his eponymous label, Karl Lagerfeld: 1989-2019.

The MET/ Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty

Presented as “a thematic and conceptual essay about Lagerfeld’s work, it is important to note the meaning behind the title of the exhibit itself. “A Line Of Beauty”.

The exhibition “examines his career spanning more than half a century through a framework based on William Hogarth’s “The Analysis of Beauty,” specifically his ideas of a serpentine line representing liveliness and a straight line indicating stillness” 

The Analysis of Beauty is a book written by the 18th-century artist and writer William Hogarth, published in 1753, which describes Hogarth’s theories of visual beauty and grace in a manner accessible to the common man of his day. Prominent among Hogarth’s ideas of beauty was the theory of the Line of Beauty; an S-shaped (serpentine) curved line that excited the attention of the viewer and evoked liveliness and movement.”

Serpentine Line/ William Hogworth

The serpentine line signifies Lagerfeld’s historicist, romantic, and decorative impulses, while the straight line indicates his modernist, classicist, and minimalist tendencies. These two lines are further divided into nine “sublines” that present aesthetic and conceptual dualities showcased in Lagerfeld’s designs for Chanel, Chloé, Fendi, and Karl Lagerfeld: feminine and masculine, romantic and military, rococo and classical, historical and futuristic, ornamental and structural, canonical and countercultural, artisanal and mechanical, floral and geometric, and figurative and abstract. Bridging these dualities will be figurative “explosions”: garments that represent moments of convergence, wherein the competing aesthetics of these dichotomies are united and reconciled“. -The MET, Press Release

Lagerfeld. The “S”

“The exhibit centers first and foremost on the dichotomy of the curved “S” line (think romantic, decorative) and the straight line (modern, minimalist), with one curved wall and one straight wall in each gallery, and designs that express each aesthetic.” – AP News

Like myself, who walked through the exhibit, with its rounded corners of intrigue that were met with straight walls and edges, it truly was a dichotomy. Yet it was a beautiful infusion of themes that seemed to flow amidst that contrast of vast differences of style. A Line Of Style. Each turn of every corner or rounded wall took one on a journey through fashion. And into the world of Karl Lagerfeld. I found myself yearning even moreso to gain a better understanding of the man being the dark shaded glasses. For certain, I left the exhibit with even more respect for the designer and his gift to the world of fashion. His artistry was vast. His links to the current world he designed within evident. Time and place. The images that I have captured and compiled are of the garments that I was enchanted by. Past and present. To see these couture garments up close and study the details of their elegance and true artistry was exhilarating. And unforgettable.

A Line Of Beauty: Karl Lagerfeld Exhibit/The MET 2023
Countercultural Line/ House Of Chanel
1991/Peter Lindbergh for Vouge/“Wild At Heart”/Chanel

As impactful as the exhibit was to me, I simply have to share a special moment of personal connection experienced during the exhibit. And share an image from fashion’s glossies to link time and place. Circa 1991. Styled by Grace Coddington, photographed by Peter Lindbergh, it was image of the elite eight Supermodels in Brooklyn, NY for the September 1991 issue of American Vogue. It has remained an iconic era of Lagerfeld to me. That September Issue. The editorial termed “Wild at Heart”, featured Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz, Helena Christensen, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, and Stephanie Seymour). An iconic editorial that impacted me 32 years ago and endures as a personal favorite. The duality of romantic elegance and bold and fearless leather. And Chanel-esque accessories. An unexpected contrast that Lagerfeld rocked. To see the mannequin adorned in pink and leather above me on a pedestal halted me. In pure delight. And I gazed and smiled, frozen in my stance, mesmerized by time and place. I knew exactly the supermodel who it had adorned. Flashbacks in fashion. In fact, I heard a gasp from an attendee, that rounded the corner behind me, voice out loud “There she is. There’s the one we all know and love”. To turn and see her gaze set upon the same mannequin verified it for me. Yes, it can be a love affair linked to fashion and form. And time and place. Lagerfeld had that way. Of impact. Even in his absence his designs still impact and will continue to do so.

And so, on to the compilations of a moment in time at the MET. Karl Lagerfeld and his artistry, creativity and vast designs of style. Not every line from the exhibit is presented, but rather it is a personal, inspirational recollection compilation of the exhibit. And, for the record, if there is a theme throughout what I have presented, perhaps it can be said that his designs and tenure at the House Of Chanel were my focus. They always have been…

Romantic Line/ House of Chanel
Romantic Line/ House Of Chanel
Romantic Line/ House Of Chanel
Floral Line/ Fendi
Floral Line/ House Of Chanel
Floral Line/ House Of Chanel
Floral Line/ House Of Chanel
Floral Line/ House Of Chanel
Floral Line/ Fendi
House Of Chanel
Feminine Line: House Of Chanel
Artisanal LIne/ House Of Chanel, Fendi
Artisanal Line/ House Of Chanel
Rococo Line/ House Of Chanel
Classical Line/ Fendi
Countercultural Line/ House Of Chanel
Countercultural Line/ Military Line/ House Of Chanel
Geometric Line/ House Of Chanel
Canonical Line/ House Of Chanel
Canonical Line/ House Of Chanel
Mechanical Line/ House of Chanel
Masculine Line/ House Of Chanel
Masculine Line/ House Of Chanel
Masculine Line/ House of Chanel
The Satirical Line/House Of Chanel
The Satirical Line/House Of Chanel

“I am like a caricature of myself. Like a mask. For me, the Carnival of Venice lasts all year” – Karl Lagerfeld

Perhaps the final line in the exhibit, the Satirical Line, brought a grin of acknowledgement of Lagerfeld’s witty sense of humor. Perhaps this is the image of Lagerfeld we immediately think of. Iconic Lagerfeld. It was in the early 2000’s that he is said to have developed his own personal uniform through years of self-study. In black and white. For certain, he became an identifiable icon in his world of black and white restraint. The power of his uniform endures.

“Black, like white, is the best color!” – Karl Lagerfeld

And of course, I completely agree…

The Satirical Line/ Chloe
The Satirical Line/ House Of Chanel
Floral Line/ House Of Chanel

Of note, and on view throughout the exhibit, were sketches of many of the garments on display. Another visual of connecting his work. It has been said that Lagerfeld’s unique design process, his practice of sketching, was not only an expressive fashion illustration but how he communicated details and technical design. Incomparable artistry of a designer, indeed.

“My sketches look like the final thing”- Karl Lagerfeld

Recreated. The Desk of Karl Lagerfeld/A Line Of Beauty Exhibit

“I don’t anyalyse what I do. I do it without comment. I propose things. My life is a life of proposals” -Karl Lagerfeld

“In the end, I am just a mercenary paid to perpetuate the label. You can’t go wrong with that” – Karl Lagerfeld

The impact of seeing the recreation of the wondrous chaos of his desk was inspiring. The exhibit lives in my memory. For certain, Lagerfeld was a “Fashion designer-impressario”. Truly, “The personification of a zeitgeist-embracing and commanding several styles simultaneously”, as clearly evidenced throughout the exhibit.

One last image and notation to share…. and perhaps an image that I captured which expresses the exhibit to me. Form. The silhouette and the shadows. There was no oversight in the way the lighting presented the mannequin figures of fashionable art by Lagerfeld. For the shadows actually became a part of the exhibits impact

Line of Style “Shadows”

My appreciation and admiration of the iconic designer, whose remarkable career spanned 65 years, has tremendously increased through visually seeing, in person, the garments of his artistry and the different lines of style as one designer he had created. A Chameleon of Design. It was stunning. That said, the impact of this exhibit will endure to inspire me forward. That is a gift not to be forgotten…

Onward,

Kristin

October 1998, Marshall Fields, Chicago. The Fragrance Launch of JAKO, Karl Lagerfeld

PS: Time and place. In October of 1998 I met Karl Lagerfeld at an autograph signing in Chicago, at what was then Marshall Fields. It was the launch of his fragrance, Jako. In a world before cell phone cameras, I knew this moment would be a rare, lifelong recollection. So I brought a real camera. And photographed him from afar, with discretion. In 1998 it was a world before selfies. And it was a world that Lagerfeld had already impacted. Time and place, onward. And of meeting him? His elegance exuded him. And I have never forgotten that. Once an icon, always an icon. Personal favorite, onward…

The French “Sunburst” of Iron: The Francois Carré “Deauville” Chair

Francois Carré, “Sunburst” Garden Chair

French by design. An icon of exterior style. The “Deauville” chair. Also known and referred to as the “Carré Sunburst”, “Sunburst”, “French Button”, “Rosette”, “Pinwheel”, “Slat Back Style” or simply “Spring Steel Chair”, this chair of structural iron originated in Paris, France by French designer Francois (Felix) Carré sometime during the 1850’s. The design of this seat is said to have been “developed in response to the demand for seating in Parisian open parks, boulevards and outdoor concerts”. Of interest, it is stated that the 1965 guidebooks would describe his chairs as “a real revolution” -possibly due to their iron structure durability surpassing that of wood in terms of longevity.

Although there is little to be found on this French designer, François A. Carré, the chair that he patented in 1866 has and will endure to link his name to its design. Comprising of simple bent steel rod and spring construction, the Deauville chair was “produced in Paris by the Val d’Osne foundries, Schlesinger Wiessener & Co of both Vienna and New York, and by Lalance & Grosjean of New York.” Carré’s patent was later purchased by Lalance and Grosjean to produce these seats. In 1890 the factory of Lalance and Grosjean is said to have been sold to garden furniture manufacturer, Wessbecher, who were known to be still advertising their furniture in 1959. From this point on, it is unclear of the history of the patent, however, these iconic spring steel chairs have continued to be made by others internationally, including in America, in the decades that followed. Variations on a design of ornamental metal in time that would seat stylishly within the exterior garden setting.

Usine Carre/Factory Carré/1867 Sunburst Deauville Chair.

In acknowledgement of the chair’s poignant history in time and a nod to its French past…

The vintage promotion (above) of the “Factory Carré” recognizes the award “Medalle (Medal) Unique” Exposition 1867 (d’art et d’industrie de 1867“). The International Exposition of 1867 (Exposition universelle) was the second world’s fair to be held in Paris. To better understand the history in time of the creation of such a chair, it is interesting to note that: “Following a decree of Emperor Napoleon III, the exposition was prepared as early as 1864, in the midst of the renovation of Paris, marking the culmination of the Second French Empire”. Who knew this chair’s history would be linked to such a important time and shift in Paris? History always deepens appreciation. Showcased are the variations of the chair and other ornamental ironwork for the exterior world that the factory produced. The French translation of “Serrurerie Artistique” is “Artistic Ironwork” and “Usine Carré” is “Factory Carré”. “Constructions & Charpentes En Fer” translates to “Constructions & Carpentry In Iron” . Ornamental artwork, indeed…

Exposition Universelle of 1867.
“Slat Back Style” or “Rosette Back Style” Advertisement circa 1928
Armless Deauville Dining Chair

The importance of this chair as a design object and work of art is its use in the fantastical images from the 1920’s…

Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier (1887-1965)

Swiss-French architect, designer, writer and painter, Charles-Édouard Jeanneret (known as Le Corbusier) used the Deauville chairs on the roof top garden of Don Carlos de Beistegui’s Paris apartment, an eclectic Parisian penthouse on the Champs Élysées. A story of architectural design unto itself, note the Arc de Triomphe and the top of the Eiffel Tower in the background.

Circa 1920’s: The work of Le Corbusier/Parisian Penthouse/Promenade Architectural and the Slat Back Carré Chair

Le Corbusier (and Pierre Jeanneret) were selected to create the promenade architecturale that would be dedicated entirely to entertaining the Parisian “Café Society” parties and was “characterized by a brilliant and festive atmosphere of cultural and social frenzy in response to the tragic deprivations“. Thus this architectural layer of heights and visual interest has been also been described as  dècor de fête (party decor) as it was designed during the time period known as Années folles -the decade of the 1920’s in France referring to the social, artistic, and cultural collaborations of the periodThat Europe had suffered following the outbreak of the Great War, during an enchanted lull between 1920 and the great depression of 1929.” Again, understanding history, time and place always leaves a greater impact on the importance of design, its importance in time and through time.

That these iconic Carré chairs would be set upon the “stage” of Le Corbusier’s “Outside of the Box” promenade architecturale (the observer’s pathway through a built space) proves and retains the chairs importance in the realm of design. Clearly, this chair was an intentional and important design focal point and element, by design

Circa 1920’s: The work of Le Corbusier/Parisian Penthouse/Promenade Architectural and the Carré Chair

On the American shores, the history of the Carré Sunburst Deauville Chair includes the Troy Sunshade Company from Troy, Ohio. Their branded reproduction of the French Carre style chair (the Deauville chair line) began in 1928 through 1954.

And what a French nod this 1957 advertisement below truly was…

The last time we saw Paris, her trees were dressed for Spring, and lovers sat on Deauville chairs, while birds their praise did sing. Which only goes to prove that 50,000,000 French wrens can’t be wrong. About wrought iron furniture by Troy, that is. In furniture and Department stores or through decorators at Troy showrooms in New York, Boston, San Francisco,Dallas and Mexico City” (1957)

“Troy Sunshade Company”/Troy, Ohio/ Advertisement circa 1957

Variations on a theme.…the sunburst back & sunburst seat. Or slat-backed chairs. Arms or without arms. Variances on an original design referred to as the Deauville. Perhaps the style that first comes to mind in referencing this chair is the sunburst back & sunburst seat….


The Sunburst “Deauville” Chair
Art Deco Carré Deauville Chair-The Unusual Fan Back version
Variations: The Deauville Chair
Troy Sunshade advertisement, Circa 1939. “Beautiful. Durable. Practical. Inexpensive. Glamorous. Restful”.
Sunburst “Deauville” Chairs

Perhaps the appearance of the Sunburst Carré chair in the 1942 American film Casablanca, a romantic drama film directed by Michael Curtiz, and starring Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman, and Paul Henreid validates even furthers the impact and importance in design elements of ornamental style that the Deauville chair held.

American Film, Circa 1942
Humphrey Bogart/ 1942 Casablanca Film Set “Ricks Cafe Américain”

In 1944, Casablanca won the Academy Award for Best Motion Picture. Known as a Hollywood film that is “sentimental and magnificently put together”, the film is said to have perfected every element of Hollywood style of filmmaking in its time. Truly, Casablanca will forever remain a classic.

To discover that my personal all-time favorite romantic drama and classic film…Casablanca…should include these chairs…again, the importance of the design in time stands out. Indeed, that the Carré chair was used as a prop in this film set to portray Casablanca, Morocco, illustrates the importance and impact that this chair held at that time and its widespread global appeal.

The Carré Chair in the 1942 Film, Casablanca

Another variation on a theme…In a nod to what is known as the “Terrace Chair”, I would be remiss to not give attention to the history of the chair of curving metal which would become an icon and trademark of the Wisconsin Union/Univeristy of Wisconsin-Madison. As noted in the history links of the Wisconsin Union, the “Terrace Chair” became a symbol of Summer on the campus Memorial Union Terrace since the early 1930’s when two versions of metal chairs had replaced the original wooden chairs that had flanked the terrace waterfront. Again, structural iron of longevity…

Logo/Representation of the Sunburst Motiff

One was an early version of the classic stamped-metal Sunburst style. The other was the Deauville, which featured a sunburst shape on the seat and the back using curved strips of steel. These styles were used through the 1960’s.”

“The Terrace” at Wisconsin Union

The Deauvilles, which by nature of their design were prone to rusting, were phased out in the 1960’s and those that remained in good shape were relegated to the Union Theater balcony. By the early 1970s, the Sunburst proved to be the most durable metal chair design. A hoop encircling the chair’s legs provided extra durability for the uneven flagstone surface and rain did not cause it to rust. The Sunburst chairs were made by the Troy Sun Shade Company of Troy, Ohio until the company closed.

(1981) “The Memorial Union Building Association commissioned Wisco Industries of Oregon, Wisconsin to fabricate the Sunburst chairs again. The colors of the iconic Sunburst chairs—John Deere green and Allis Chalmers orange and yellow—evoke spring, summer and fall while paying homage to Wisconsin farming traditions.” (a color scheme trademarked by the university).

(1988) “The Sunburst chair design was patented for use only by the Wisconsin Union”

-Wisconsin Union

A visual appreciation of the French chair in the world of outdoor living today…

The Deauville Sunburst Chair
The Deauville Sunburst Chair in the exterior
The Deauville “Sunburst” Chair In The Exterior World
The Deauville “Sunburst” Chair In The Exterior World
The Deauville “Sunburst” Chair In The Exterior World
The Deauville “Sunburst” Chair in the Exterior World
The Deauville “Sunburst” Chair in the Exterior World
Deauville “Sunburst” Armless Dining Chairs

Variations on a theme, indeed. For certain, the French Francois Carré style Sunburst spring seat and slat back garden chairs and have graced the patios and sunrooms of the elite for years. This iconic French chair has retained popularity over the decades, proving itself resilient in style and adding character and visual interest in both public and private spaces.

The Carré Chair. The Deauville. The Sunburst. The Rosette. The Pinwheel. The French Button. Slat Back Style” or simply the Spring Steel chair. No matter what this stylish engineered chair design is referenced, the sculptural appeal and design of the chair itself will continue to stand the test of time…

A seat in time. Whether it is a new rendition or an aged to perfection (albeit rusted) vintage French iron seat of decades past, appreciation of its history and design element that the chair adds to outdoor spaces will endure. Appreciation of the architectural heritage of an iconic design, indeed…

Onward,

Kristin

PS: Years ago I cut out this image from a magazine, “The Deauville Chair, A Smithsonian Reproduction”, and pinned it to my inspiration board. And I wrote “Patio Perfect!” upon it. With the intent of discovering its history and the intent of one day composing a blog post on this intriguing chair… Onward to following what moves you, what inspires you and sharing it….aspirations always worth following…

My Personal Objects and Images In Time..

In Acknowledgment Of The Passing Of A Supermodel: Tatjana Patitz

Vouge Italia, February 2023

Tatjana Patitz.

An ode to Tatjana…in acknowledgement of an icon in fashion whose impact will endure to live on…

Tatjana Patitz (1966-2023) was a German model. And a Supermodel. It was during the 1980’s and 1990’s that her stardom would ascend and she would appear on the covers of fashions glossies. Born in Hamburg, West Germany and raised in Skanör, Sweden, Tatijana would become one of the top supermodels who ruled the runway in the 1990’s. The volume of photographic captures of Tatjana is vast. This tribute is a mere capsule of her gift to the world of fashion.

For one who fell in love with the art of fashion…and grew into womanhood following the rise of the Supermodel…the impact of life’s brevity has struck again with the loss of one of the greatest, Tatjana Patitz.

Again, a mere visual compilation of images in acknowledgement….

Tatjana Patitz…Covers of Fashion

 

Captured By Photographer Herb Ritz:

“My favorite face is probably Tatjana Patitz.  I think I’ve photographed her more than anybody, and to me more than any of the women she has the most unusual face:  Strong, oval, the almond eyes and those strong lips- and it’s her gaze, her inner self that always comes through so strongly”Herb Ritz

Captured By Photographer Peter Lindbergh:

“I admire Tatjana because she always stays herself.  She’s very soft, but at the same time she’s very strong and knows how to stand up for what she thinks, and it’s always very enriching to be with her.  It’s impossible not to admire her and over the the years not to be just a little bit in love with her” – Peter Lindbergh

Peter Lindbergh, 1990 Vouge Italia
Captured By Photographer Patrick Demarchelier:

“It’s hard to get a bad picture of Tatijana.  She’s very photogenic, which is very rare and she looks different in every light”Patrick Demarchelier

Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Gracing The Glossies Of Fashion…Tatijana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz

She possessed an exoticism and broad emotional range that set her apart from her peers”Nigel Barker “The most lasting images of her are when she was really looking like herself.”- Nigel Barker

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is tatiana-patiz-supermodel-p-9.png
Tatjana Patitz: Fashion Past & Fashion Forward

“Indeed, Patitz’s features almost confuse. Like Garbo  or the Mona Lisa, the inexplicable gifts of line and luminescence defy definition”Harper’s Bazaar

Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz

“Always the European symbol of chic….She was far less visible than her peers — more mysterious, more grown-up, more unattainable — and that had its own appeal.”- Anna Wintour, VOUGE

Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz

“One of the original supermodels and a must in photographs and on the catwalk”.  Vogue, 2012, Grace Coddington

Tatjana Patitz

“At just shy of six feet tall, Teutonically self-composed, and dominating any room she cared to walk into [sic], Tatjana was the biggest beast in the seething jungle; Vogue amplified the comparison by fixating on her lynx-like eyes, impossibly blue and curved around the temples like a cat’s”. –  Vogue Model: The Faces of Fashion.

Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatijana Patitz

“Patitz is greatly responsible for establishing the acceptance of statuesque and curvaceous beauty in an industry of extreme thinness” – Author Linda Sivertsen

Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatijana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz. An Equestrian Love.

In acknowledgement of her love of horses….

“I have been riding since I was a small child. For me, it means freedom, connectedness, and dedication. Horses transform stress and worry for me. They are genuine and spiritual. They make me happy and relaxed, especially if I feel pressured or tense”. – Tatijana Patitz

Tatjana Patitz
Tatjana Patitz

Perhaps one cannot fully acknowledge the impact of Tatjana in fashion without acknowledging the SUPERMODELS...

The proclamation of the Supermodel could be attributed to the glossy cover of British Vogue in January of 1990. An Era-defining cover at the start of a new decade, for certain….

British Vogue 1990: “The Big Five” Supermodels

For those that recall the Era of the 90’s Supermodels and lived through that heightened time in fashion.. a brief recap of the time that will forever inspire me…

It was a moment in time when fashion was about fashion.  And the images of models wearing the styles of designers graced the covers of fashion’s glossies.   Fashion as an art form.  And the models that represented the changing styles and transformational chameleons the models became at the hands of makeup, hair and photographic artists that captured them. Supermodels.

Truth, I was one who purchased these glossies from the magazine stands since the mid 1980’s, a time in which the term “Supermodel” is said to have surfaced as models began to experience a level of celebrity.  But it was during the 1990’s that a group of five models rose to unprecedented superstardom through fashion’s glossies and its catwalks. The Supermodels emerged- “a select group of individual-looking, business-minded, high-profile fashion models”, often referred to as “The Big Five”:  Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Tatjana Patitz. The original Supermodels. Icons of the time. But as in the world of fashion, the world of the Supermodel would evolve again to include Claudia Schiffer (who is said to have replaced Patitz).  The arrival of Kate Moss would evolve to “The Big Six”. Many more models would also rise to Supermodel status. It was an Era, indeed…

And yes, I had curated a collection of covers and glossy prints of the Supermodels portrayed in the art of fashion’s branding and visual merchandising. I watched it all happen. And I became a woman along with the Supermodels. For in later years I realized that they were not much older than I. The time was quite magical. And unique. Watching the five women in print- chameleons by way of the designer, photographer and makeup/hair artists that positioned them for the glossy visuals and unleashed them onto the catwalks that would endure to impact and sell fashion. And inspire. It truly was an art. Fashion. Designers. Photography. Makeup artistry. Five women. And it was thrilling to visually flip through the different glossies each and every month. Which Supermodel graced the cover this month? And yes, during the 1990’s I often splurged on the glossies of European Vouges. I was smitten with the art of it all.

Alas, all things rise and fall.  And by the late 1990’s, the glossy covers of fashion would elevate Hollywood celebrities and Pop singers.  The iconic Era of the Supermodel, as it was once known, no longer had the limelight of fashion’s focus. Perhaps I hold a very passionate stance on what fashion once was: The designer and the model-and the photographer who captured it all…No other group of models have matched the influence and status as the original Supermodels. To acknowledge the impact the Supermodels had is to understand fashion in a poignant decade of time

SUPERMODELS, 1990’S
SUPERMODELS COVERS, 1990’S
“White Cotton Shirts” By Peter Lindbergh for Vouge
Tatjana Patitz..later years

“I am proud of my wrinkles. I worked for each one and they belong to me. Growing older is beautiful. You become wiser and more mature. For me, giving away or changing that gift is not an option … Beauty means being a good person and being there for others. In my opinion, beauty is not only about looks, but everything that makes up a person” Tatjana Patitz, 2019

Tatjana Patitz, Harpers Bazaar 1990

The legacy of a Supermodel. In images. A visual acknowledgement. A woman. A mother. Taken by breast cancer. She was 56.

-Kristin