It has been ages since I wrote my last book review, as well as it has been ages that I have been to a library. Back in the days I used to flock to my home town library almost every weekend, but haven’t done so since I moved to Iceland. I changed both of these facts. Actually, it was part of my New Year’s resolutions. After all I live in a country with one of the highest per capita author rate (2015 there have been almost 1,500 titles published, in a small nation of only little over 300,000 inhabitants) and still one of the highest book consumption rate in the world. I mean, hey, Reykjavík is a UNESCO City of Literature after all! I am a proud owner of a library membership now and I felt instantly revived when I wandered through the silent, of book smelling corridors of the Reykjavík town library. I felt like a fish in a sea full of names.
Besides that I am having a bet with my fiancé, since our home is small, but full of books. This is amongst other things thanks to my sister-in-law which handed me a lot of books she found abandoned at her workplace in a hotel the other day. I promised him at the end of the year these books will all be read and gone off to book-swap-tables. Typical Icelandic reading season is the long winter, but since the days start to stretch again before midsummer sun fully arrives, I need to speed up now!
So, you see my year 2019 started completely under the star of books.
Source: Bokmenntaborgin.is
One of these books I was reading is the non-fiction book of English writer and academic Sarah Moss called “Names for the Sea – Strangers in Iceland”. It came to my attention while I was browsing through the gorgeous blog of “The Blank Garden” from Juliana – check her blog out here. First I almost didn’t buy the book, because I thought to myself “There will be hardly anything new to discover in this book, because she has been through the same experience as you being an expat in Iceland”. But at the end, I was happy I bought and read it, because it wasn’t for her actual daily experiences, but the life lessons she connected to it, that made this book worth reading. In fact it sometimes opened my eyes to situations I encounter on a daily basis, but ceased to recognise them.
It was absolutely eye-opening for me to read her wisdom. This book was more valuable for me for its perspective of life in general than it was about its insight about life in Iceland in particular. Yet it was very soothing to read that not only it is me who struggles to adjust my European soul and style of living to this rugged island customs. Funny enough I took Business Communication English lessions while I was reading her book and my teacher is foreigner grown up in Great Britain as well and she described similar experiences as Moss. Moss was writing her book in the wake of the big Icelandic financial collaps (“kreppa”) of 2008. Things seem to be a little more rough than they are now, but still today things are not extremely more different, which was kind of odd for me to discover.
“You can’t live in Iceland without discovering the limits of human power”
More than once I paused reading quotes like these and was in awe about the depth about her statements, which she so casually drops in subordinate clauses as if it is nothing of importance, really.
“I like the way it’s impossible to ignore the passing of time. Today is darker than yesterday, tomorrow will be darker than today” – S. Moss describing the fade-out of daylight after midnight sun.
She managed to put into words what I was feeling all the time, but failed to really realize or at least verbalize about how it feels to live in Iceland. It make me stop for a moment and think about something which usually drowns in daily routine. Her sentences sometimes reveal something so monumental it is sheer beauty to read this truth put so simple yet so beautiful.
“… feeling the earth tilt back towards the sun, back towards life”
In some way this book was comforting me during a time of a year, when I usually experience a rush of doubt or a little melt-down of why I am living on this island in the middle of the atlantic. But then again, this place is so special, so pure, so close to nature and therefore life in its core meaning. Moss opened my eyes anew to this gift I have gotten and phrased it so graciously.
Source: grantabooks.com
General book information
Author: Sarah Moss
Title: Names for the Sea – Strangers in Iceland
Sites: 358
ISBN: 978-1-84708-416-3
Publisher: Granta Books
It is well-known that Icelandic surnames are special and unique in the world. The so-called patronyms are still in use here. Patronyms are “surnames” generated by the first name of your father adding an ending whether you are female (-dóttir for daughter) or male (-son), basically saying whose daughter or son you are. My name for example (if I would be Icelandic) would be Marie Údosdóttir, because my dad is called Udo. But I learned the other day that there are also other Icelandic name phenomena.
Icelandic nicknames (gælunöfn)
While I was chatting with my colleagues at the jólahlaðborð (Christmas buffet) the other day, which is a traditional way for companies celebrating the holiday season with loads of traditional Icelandic food, I found out that there are several ways of a first name to transform into a nickname. Of course, nicknames are generic and therefore you can not typically say “This first name ALWAYS transforms into this nickname”. It’s simply in the nature of nicknames and they come in as many variations as people and characters, I guess. Apparently I am by far not the only one who ever wondered about Icelandic nicknames – turns out there has been even a doctoral dissertation written on Icelandic nicknames (University of California by Kendra Willson).
It seems they are most often sound similar to the formal name or its ground structure is still shining through. “What is also apparent in the formation of nicknames is that they are usually of a certain form, it is as if there was a certain ‘template’ that nicknames should fit into”, says Aðalsteinn Hákonarson from the Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies. He goes on saying that they are usually dissyllabic even though the actual name may only have one syllable. For Example: Jón turns into Nonni or Björn into Bjössi.
Since Icelandic doesn’t really have any form of diminutive for personal names, like for example German (for example Lenchen) or Polish, nicknames or pet names are not based on any of that. “However there are some nicknames formed with the element –si, -sa which one can maybe consider a kind of diminutive suffix, e.g. Jónsi for Jón or Grímsi for Steingrímur”, says Aðalsteinn.
“A particularly interesting phenomenon is that nicknames seem often to be derived from the speech of small children”, Aðalsteinn Hákonarson
Icelandic names can be very long and truly difficult to pronounce – not only for foreigners, but presumbly also for kids. I think of names like Þjóðbjörn, Sigþrúður or Hólmfríður. “A particularly interesting phenomenon is that nicknames seem often to be derived from speech of small children”, reasons Aðalsteinn.
Some of the most popular names have the need to come up with other nickname forms and had to abandon the standard nickname-template. That’s why names like the female name Sigríður, which is usually turning into Sigga can also be Sýrri or the frequent male name Guðmundur can also turn into “Mummi” instead the usual “Gummi”.
Some nickname examples
Maggi (usually for Magnús)
Sigga (most often for Sigríður)
Kiddi (amongst others for Kristinn)
Halli (for example for Halldór)
Begga (usually for Bergþóra)
Villi (for example for Víglundur)
Binni (for names like Brynjúlfur and similar)
Gummi (often for Guðmundur)
Nonni (for Jón)
Grímsi (for names with -grímur in it like Steingrímur)
But nicknames aren’t the only name phenonemon I learned more of recently and it is connected with surnames.
Icelandic surnames (ættarnöfn)
Source: arnastofnun.is
As I just mentioned patronyms are still in use in Iceland and are for most part of the population the applying surname system. What I didn’t know until recently was that there exist also Icelandic family last names. They usually appear to be Scandinavian, at least to my ears, which is why I haven’t figured out yet that they are meant to be Icelandic. There are some few in existence and how they came into being is rather amusing. Icelandic family names came into fashion rather late, probably in the 19th century. “The first surnames were adopted by Icelanders who were studying in Europe”, explains Kendra Willson, linguist specialised in Scandinavian Languages currently at the University of Turku.
Back in those days everything foreign was en vogue, especially everything Danish due to the Danish occupation and influence. Therefore some rich families simply decided to give themselves Europeans sounding family names. “In the 19th century it became fashionable for the upwardly mobile to adopt surnames, often ‘Danishized’ versions of Icelandic place or personal names”, states Wilson. That is why some of them are retrieved from original place names, for example their home farm or place of activity. “Briem” for example originates from Brjánslækur, the place where the ferry from Stykkishólmur arrives in the wonderful Westfjords. “Hjaltalín” traces back from the farm Hjaltadalur in Skagafjörður, as well as “Blöndal” which comes from a family from Blöndudalshólar. However, adopting new family names was forbidden by law for Icelanders in 1925 and now the patronymic system is the only way to receive a “surname”.
Here a short list of Icelandic surnames:
Blöndal
Waage
Briem
Norðdahl
Hjaltalín
Hjaltested
Vídalín
Naming traditions & habits
I learned in some families it is tradition to name the children after their grandparents or great-grandparents. This is also habit in other parts of the world, but with the patronymic system this can lead into endless name loops, which I find especially curious.
Here an example of an Icelandic name loop: Your grandfathers’ name would be Magnús Hinriksson and your dads’ name would be Hinrik Magnússon (since he is the son of Magnús). Now you are born and due to the tradition of inheriting your grandfathers name, you’d be Magnús Hinriksson (since you are the son of Hinrik). ∞ See where this is going? ∞
In order to avoid too confusing infinite name loops that go into eternity there is also a very strong tradition of giving children two names. Which I kind of suffer from, since I have two names, but my second name has never been in use the 26 years of my life before besides being noted on my passport (nowhere else, not even in official documents). After I went to Iceland all of a sudden I constantly hear my FULL name, which is super irritating for me, because I do not identify with my second name AT ALL.
Six months to name your baby
In other families the grandparents naming tradition is not so strict or not used at all. There is a 6-month time frame after a baby is born to register its name in Iceland. I am aware that this is possible also in other countries. But I have never heard of any parents taking so long to keep a blank space for their babies name in Germany. However, a lot of Icelanidc families use this time to get to know their newborn, figure out the character and features of their baby and see which name it suits best or if the chosen name is really suitable for the little one. One of my friends wanted to name her first born daughter after her grandma, but when the girl was born it turned out the chosen name didn’t fit her at all, so she found a new one, more suitable name.
Weather was crazy over the weekend in Reykjavík – even for Icelandic standards. It was so crazy you got soaked by the rain within 5 seconds being outside as the storm is giving you the full rain dose: horizontal, vertical and buttom-up. While you try to walk a straight line without being pushed out of your way by the gusts, you simultaneously struggle to keep your eyes open and them from being scratched out by the rain. This kind of weather – I learned from my friend Gurrý – has a name and is called “Slagveður”. Icelandic has a lot of such expressions for weather for obvious reasons and I would like to share some of them today with you:
Slagveður
This literally translates to “hitting weather” and means that the gusts of wind are so powerful and sudden as if they are trying to hit you. This is especially dreadful when accompanied by rain, snow or even worse: hail. My parents and me got introduced to this kind of weather once we visited the notoriously windy Reykjanes peninsula and hail joined abruptly. We weren’t far from our car when it hit, but it gave us a good grate of the face.
Rok og rigning
Rok in Icelandic doesn’t refer to the music genre, but means gale and the combination “rok og rigning” is describing crazy weather with rain and gale, however it is a little softer version of Slagveður. Kind of the preliminary stage to it. This is a rather “normal” Icelandic weather pattern and believe me it is just ‘lovely’, I have tested it several times – getting all soaked in a blink of an eye and then quick-frozen by the arctic wind. You should try it when you visit Iceland 😉
Wind is a constant in Iceland, it has rarely calm weather around here
Gluggaveður
Window weather (gluggaveður) is a type of weather that has tricked me more than once. To be honest it actually keeps on tricking me, even though I should – after 4 years living in Iceland – know better. How does window weather trick me? Well, I sit in my warm apartement, check the weather by looking out of the window. I have encountered three scenarios of gluggaveður so far.
Gluggaveður-Scenario 1: I underestimated the wind speed. Since Iceland is technically treeless you usually don’t see how windy it is outside and windy in Iceland always translates to chilly.
Gluggaveður-Scenario 2: It is summer, you watch out of your window and see sun – your European brain tells you it must be warm outside, but you are soon to be fooled by frosty 12°C – at best.
Gluggaveður-Scenario 3: The weather is actually wonderful right now – neither frosty nor windy. You think “Checkpot”. Only to find out 5 minutes later the weather changed to horriffic the moment you will step outside.
Snjór hundslappadrífa
This expression means “it is snowing dog paw-sized snow flakes”. It is this kind of peaceful snowfall, which is falling silently in perfect calm straight from Mother Holle directly onto a winter wonderland landscape. This is a rather seldom phenomen since wind in Iceland is normality.
Kóf
Kóf is a kind of snow that is falling so densly, that it will block the view. In contrast to hundslappadrífa it isn’t all pitoresque and serene, but usually comes with a little more wind.
With the winter only just beginning, I am sure I will continue this list with crazy-weather-expressions. Do you know any weather expressions in Icelandic or have any funny phrase in your language?
We just returned from a month travelling and criss-crossing the globe. Thanks to my fiancé’s job we could travel with stand by tickets, which made this trip possible without breaking the bank. While we were visiting Japan, Singapore and Portugal, we encountered some things that Iceland could adopt from these destinations. Since Iceland is a fairly young developed tourist destination it goes without saying that there is still room for improvements. Of course, we understand countries are different. Anyway, here are some stimuli we came across during our journey.
1. Vending Machines
In Japan, I am sure everyone of you have heard of, vending machines are everywhere. You can find them on every street corner. Even though we didn’t find the crazy ones filled with all kinds of funny stuff, we sure did use them every day to stay hydrated with water, fancy ice tea or soda. Since electricity is cheap in Iceland, I am sure the upkeeping of vending machines wouldn’t be to costly. Also, Iceland is notourisly expensive with everything connected to service, speak sales staff in stores. Plus, only a few shops are open 24/7. If you only want to grab a quick sandwich, skyr or Appelsín after 21:00 why not with a vending machine. Placed next to a hostel in downtown Reykjavík or in a remote village, I am pretty sure this idea wouldn’t turn out too bad. My Japanase colleague also added another important role of vending machines: In case of emergency, like earthquakes, vending machines offer a quick access to necessities while the main supply chain might be destroyed or interrupted. With 32 active volcanoes this could also be a helpful mission for vending machines here in Iceland.
2. Bidets
Water in Iceland is plentiful and cheap. So why are there bidets nowhere to be found. I have stayed in some hotels and guesthouses around Iceland and never did I encounter a bidet – neither the Japanese style toilet-and-bidet-in-one with a lot of fancy adjustments nor the French stand-alone bidet with one simple water nozzle. I got used to them so quickly in Japan I don’t want to miss them. The only reason I can think of they are not en vogue in Iceland (yet?) is, because Iceland is an expensive country when it comes to everything connected with importations – at the end it might be for sheer money saving reasons. As always!
3. Whole Fish in Restaurants
Source: foodandwine.com
We were wondering why a fish-rich country like Iceland never serves whole fish in restaurants. We understand that a whole cod might be a bit much for lunch (they can get as heavy as 12kg), but what about hering or mackerel. We know that restaurants usually get whole fresh fish delivered, but I have never seen a whole fish served eventually. In Portugal, Singapore or Latvia this was quite often the case. My guess is that – again – it’s for money reasons. Probably nobody could afford it in the already pricey Icelandic restaurants.
4. Warning Signs with fine statements
Portugal in some ways felt like a warm version of Iceland: It was almost all the time windy, the coastal rock formations were spectacular and tourists were behaving as reckless as in Iceland. At the Praia da Marinha in the Algarve we were watching a group of Instagram-addicted visitors, who couldn’t care less about the big fat sign stating the 300€ fine that would apply if they would get caught climbing the fence to the dangerous sink holes. Iceland is implementing more and more warning signs, but so far I haven’t seen any which mentions the actual fine that would apply. I guess, though, this wouldn’t make a difference anyway. An Instagram-addiction might be too strong of a drive.
5. Transportation
Especially in Singapore and Japan we saw the stark difference in the state of art in public transportation. Sure, both countries are grossly different in population and stage of development compared to Iceland and therefore are way ahead of this tiny nation. Still there was this reminder, that Icelanders are way too keen on their car and public transport is kind watched upon with contempt.
Have you been to Iceland and were wondering why there are some things missing you were used to in other travel destinations? I am curious to hear what you noticed.
I love to eat most of the things which come out of the ocean onto our plates: Fish, mussels, scallops, lobster, crabs and so on and so forth. When we eat sushi, the obligatory wakame salad is usually next to it as side dish. Since we are planning to travel to Japan this fall, I am pretty much inspired by the Japanese cuisine leading to all kinds of variations with wakame at home: As salads, in miso soups or as salty snacks.
I didn’t realise for quite some time, that Iceland has its own version of wakame: It is called Söl. I even once gave it as a prezzie to my mum when I came home for a visit. She repeatedly asked me what she shall do with it, but I had no clue to what it even was. My only goal when buying it was to get her “something from Iceland” she didn’t had tasted yet, which turned out to be not an easy venture. When the penny finally dropped, I understood I could make an Icelandic version of all kinds of wakame dishes. I haven’t tried yet, but I will soon.
Söl – Icelandic dulse and other seaweeds. Source: mataraudur.is
What is söl
For all of you who are still wondering, what söl really is, here some facts.
It is the Icelandic word for dulse [palmaria palmata] and
is a red algae [Rhodoplantae]
Söl or dulse is growing in the intertidal zone – which means in the costal areas which are left exposed during low tide – of the Northern Atlantic Ocean.
It is full of
minerals, like iodine and calcium,
vitamins, like vitamine A, C or B12,
fibre and
protein. In fact, söl has so much protein (max. 30 gr) that it is considered a superfood for athletes and sportsmen. It is also said to contain antioxidants, which further contributes to its potential as superfood.
Söl grows actually on every beach in Iceland. There are even several place names connected to it – here some examples: Sölvabásar (Reykjanes peninsula), Sölvatangi (Westfjords) or Sölvalaut (Snæfellsnes). Locations with the name söl in it you’ll find especially in the West, Westfjords and South-West. Interestingly, not so many in North Iceland and none in the East. One might think this indicates it isn’t as plentyful found there. The reason behind this however might be the softened tidal range differences in the North and East, which makes it more difficult to harvest it in these areas. Akureyri (North) for example has a tidal range of only max. 1,2 metres. Reykjavík (South-West), however as much as much as 4 metres, which makes it way easier to harvest it there. This effect resulted in a historcal trade for söl between the North-East and the South-West and apparently in the name naming of several places, as Aðalsteinn Hákonarson from Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies confirms: “Söl is a plural word and the genitive form is sölva. In general names of the kind you mentioned are most likely connected with “söl. However one may wonder about names of places that are not directly by the sea. In some instances the names may be connected to the male name Sölvi””
Dried Söl. Source: natturan.is
How Icelanders eat it
The statement from Wikipedia, that “in Iceland, the tradition is to eat it with butter” I could not verify. All of my colleagues and friends said, they eat it primarily as a snack. That means – if they eat it at all, they eat it straight out of the box. It is sold in supermarkets where you can find it in the health, fruit or snack area – so, that makes sense. It is usually sold by the brand “Íslensk Hollusta“, at least this is the only brand I have encountered so far selling it. They harvest it by hand in South Iceland and air dry it – all natural. My beloved book “Traditional Icelandic food” by Guðrún Helga Sigurðardóttir mentiones that “an example of an Icelandic hearty meal consisted of dried fish, seaweed [editor’s note: söl] and angelica roots.” When asking her why it is missing in her culinary book, Guðrún Helga states, that “I have tasted söl, but I don’t eat it on a regular basis. It has not been given much attention during my childhood and adulthood in Iceland even though it was important in the olden days. Though söl is having a comeback in Icelandic food culture.”
Söl is having a comeback in Icelandic food culture.
She is right. Söl was used in the old times to eke out grains for baking bread. In a document from the 16th century, which is known to have been especially harsh, it is recommended to be served as food for school boys, since it is so nutritious.
Snaps “Söl” – a new avantgarde version of Brennivín. Source: spiritsoficeland.is
Today söl is used as that one extraordinary ingredient for delicacies like snaps or sausages and is used at high-class restaurants, like my favourite “Matur og Drykkur” or hyper-stylish SOE Kitchen 101. I even found a funky recipe for a dulse coffee chocolate cake. Since I was always sceptic about a red beet cake, which turned out to be awesome, I had to definetly give this recipe a try as well. It tastes great. Just don’t overdo it with the dulse and it’ll blend in perfectly with the chocolate and coffee flavor.
Recently an old school-friend of mine asked me to help her friend to find cool and interesting places to stay in Iceland. First I was afraid that there will come no decent priced ideas to my mind, but when I gave it a thought, the list quickly filled up. This list can help you find a special place to stay while exploring this already special place called Iceland.
The friend ended up opting out from travelling to Iceland this year. When asking for the reasons, I highly expected her to say “too expensive” since Iceland got more and more costly over the last five years – prices are in average 66% over the price level in Europe. But her answer kind of surprised me: They decided to go to Spain instead this year, because there were so many tourists in Iceland these days. I have to admit, she has a fair point with this argument. The tourist boom here brought a lot of people to this natural gem, making it more stuffed with travellers as one might expect. Another friend of mine which visited me briefly on a stopover from U.S. had the same impression: Everywhere in the states she was almost the only tourist, she described. Even in museums and at top sights. In Iceland she felt all the sights we visited were overcrowded. Note: I visited the rather less travelled Reykjanes peninsula with her. I don’t even dare thinking how it must have been on the South Coast or Golden Circle.
Anyway, since my list wasn’t needed any longer, I can now share it with you:
1. Sleep in a museum
Sleeping in a traditional Icelandic “badstofa”
In Fljótsdalur we visited the Icelandic Wildnerness Center (Óbyggðasetur Íslands – not so catchy in Icelandic). But not only did we visit it, we also stayed over night IN it. We can only recommend you this lovely place. The hosts are amazing, as is their dinner prepared in a traditional farm kitchen and the surrounding hiking opportunities (see Waterfall Trail).
2. Stay in a former retirement home
The charm of the former retirement home was kept alive on purpose by the owners, which makes it super homely.They even left the assist handles in the walls
In Blesastaðir close to the Golden Circle area you can choose an accommodation of the international HI Hostels association which used to be a retirement home. The interior, especially the common room and the winter garden are almost as they were when this place was still a retirement home – even the walking assist handles are still in the wall. This place has a nice homely atmoshpere – I especially loved the cozy winter garden.
3. Nighttime peace in middle of nowhere
Source: volcanohuts.com
Of course I can not forget mentioning my beloved Volcano Huts – the point where my Iceland Experiment started. Alone the approach is something special your average accommodation doesn’t require – crossing glacial rivers, passing glaciers and sleeping in a “triangle of fire” surrounded by three volcanoes.
4. Adventurous: On a glacial river island
Funky, but peaceful: In a jurt on an glacial river island. Source: thh.is
How cool is that: Staying on an island within a glacial river in a Mongolian jurt. That you can do in TrausthóltshóImi in South Iceland. I have to admit, I never stayed there myself, but it is on top of my to do list. My colleague stayed there last summer. She said it was gorgeous. The host is growing everything organic with his own hands on the island and catching the fish out of Þjórsá river personally. On the river bank he will prepare the freshest salmon sashimi you have ever tried in Iceland (or probably … ever).
5. Cow farm turned into hotel
Porter Service Icelandic style
Hótel Natur near Akureyri (only 10 minutes from Akureyri) in the scenic Eyjafjörður once was a cow farm, run by the charismatic Stefán and his family. Once I visited the hótel with my parents, he came with his tractor to fetch our luggage. The old silo was turned into a Northern Lights watching tower. We highly recommend you to stay there for one or two nights and take in the scenery, serenity and hospitality.
May and June have been basically throughout rainy, I mean Reykjavík was drowning in rainy, cloudy days. May even broke the meteorologic rain record here in the capital: It was raining every single day of the month. This made me think about water a lot. Iceland is famous for its water. Not only the amount of water you can find around the island in any kind of form – no matter if in countless waterfalls, in the form of ice in glaciers, geothermally heated and steaming in hot springs like the Icelandic trademark geysir, the ever present rough North Atlantic Ocean or in naturally meandering rivers – but also as botteled, exported water, like you could see Kim Kardashian sippin’ on the stylish “Icelandic Glacial”. Water is in fact such dominant element in Iceland, that it even has two colours representing it in the Icelandic flag: Blue for the ocean and white for the ice and glaciers. Sometimes I wonder why the tourist advertisements are always claiming “Iceland – the country of fire and ice”, when it should rather be called “the country of fire and water” (I know it ruins the contrast, but hey), that’s how dominant it actually is.
If you open the tap in Iceland you will have fresh spring water flowing out of it. Unlike most other European countries, the water is not recycled. You will not find any water treatment facilities here. There are no residues of chemicals, medications or fertilisiers, which are a big hazzle to remove from other countries water supply. The water will never have a chlorine smell nor will it be unsuitable for drinking. The only smell you will encounter with Icelandic water is sulphurous, but this only involves the warm water which is sourced from geothermal water – let the cold water run for 10 seconds and the smell will be gone. Actually, a lot of tourists could save part of their budget in such an expensive travel location, if they would skip buying the overpiced botteled waters in the groceries and gas stations, and rather stick to refilling their drinking bottles with tap water. It safes plastic, too.
The luxury good from the tap
Having such a surpreme quality of water is a big luxury good and is part of the high living quality you have here in Iceland. After all, human bodies are 75% water according to Dr. Batmanghelidj M.D., whose book “You’re not sick, you’re thirsty – Water for Health, for Healing, for Life” I highly recommend and drinking enough water is essential for ones health. When we visited a friends’ wedding in Poland recently, I wanted to drink out of the tap as I am used from Iceland. The water didn’t get crispy cold, neither did it taste fresh. In the contrary – there was a horrible smell to the water, almost as if it wasn’t safe to drink and straight out of a public pool. That is Poland – a European country, not any kind of third-world-country, where you might be more prone to encounter water shortness or unsafe tap water. That showed me once more what kind of precious good Icelanders have flowing around them in abundance: Fresh, pure, clean water. Siggi, the owner from Urta Islandica explained to me once I was visiting his new herbs store, that Icelandic water is sometimes even “too pure”, which means there is not much of minerals in it. Look for example at the magnesium or calcium levels – compared to most mineral waters you can buy in Europe, this is rather low. The advantage is however, that the water has a neutral ph-level and if you drink a lot – as you should drink at least 2 litres a day, doesn’t interfere with your body’s ph-level.
Icelandic water is so pure it is almost too pure
Icelandic myths about water spirits
The hiking trail in Fljótsdalur which is literally called “The waterfall trail” since there are more then 10 waterfalls along its path. Water everywhere
With all the water surrounding and present in the landscape of Iceland, you would assume there would be a much bigger amount of fairytailes, myths or legends connected to water creatures, like mermaids, nymphs or at least sea monsters, especially when you consider the vivid narrations concerning hidden people, so basically elves and trolls coming from rocks and mountains, one would expect hoards of stories including such creatures. However, so far I haven’t heard many Icelandic fairytales including any sort of water spirits. There is one about a seal-women who is robbed of her seal skin by a farmer from the South Coast, the Icelandic version of Loch Ness in lake Lagarfljót in the East and a kind of mermaid-like man called Marbendill who brought a sea-gray cow on land, which is said to be the mother of all Icelandic milk cows and gives especially plentyful milk.
It is also astonishing that there is no Icelandic name which refers to water directly. Regarding there are plenty of Icelandic first names which are derived from actual natural elements, but none exists with the direct meaning of water, waterfall, rain etc. The only one I can think of is the female name Bára, which means “wave”. I find that odd, since there are names which include other forms of water in a way, like for example Snjólaug (“pool of snow”) or Sævar (“sea warrior”), whereas there are several English, Irish or even Hebrew names, which actually do have the very meaning of water or at least in connection to some water deity.
The symbol water
Water is associated to the geographic direction of West, which fits perfectly since Icelands Westfjord coast is one of the westernmost points of Europe and the exploration of the “West” aka. America has been undertaken by Leifur Eiríksson starting from Iceland. Interestingly to mention at this point is maybe that Iceland is defended by a giant bull in the West in its National coat of arms. This originates from the Heimskringla saga, in which Harald Bluetooth was about to attack Iceland when four giant protection spirits warded the island on its four points of compass. Even though the zodiac sign of Taurus is belonging to the element of earth, not connected to water or West, I sense there must be some deeper logic to this symbol of a bull guarding the West Coast of Iceland. I actually will do some further research to this.
Amazing satellite picture from naturally meandering river Skaftá. Source: map.is
Another matter which rings true to modern day Iceland in regards to Western astrology is, that the element of water stands for the attributes “cold” and “wet” – actually, Icelandic climate is subarctic, which translates to cold in general and to cool summers in particular. Iceland receives a lot of precipitation and therefore is “wet”. An example: Parts of the highlands receive an annual precipitation of 2.000 mm – for comparisson: “Rain forests are characterized by high rainfall, with definitions setting minimum normal annual rainfall between 1,750 and 2,000 mm” states the Wikipedia entry about precipitation. Water also symbolises beauty, which obviously seems to have been embodied into Icelands breathtaking landscape, some may even argue in the beauty of its women. Which, in addition reflects that the symbol of water has always been attributed to female energy (sorry, Icelandic men). It almost seems as if all this abundance of water brought all this beauty to it in the first place. Water is furthermore connected to the overall, timeless symbol of cleansing and purging of the human hubris.
The universal and alchemistical symbol of water
Anyone, who has spent more then four days in Iceland will have gotten the sense of being one with nature, being cleansed, being refreshed and touched by natures raw and overwhelming beauty. Since all this can be in a broader sense attributed to peace, it is no wonder that Yoko Ono established her peace light tower in Iceland. In this sense Iceland could be the worlds saving watery grace.
The ever changing element
Water is the only element which is ever so different than all the other elements on earth. In fact, scientist are more puzzled about its attributes the more they learn and research about it. It is indeed a very changeable element and therefore suits perfectly to Iceland as this is a very changeable country. I am actually wondering why there isn’t as much scientific bustle and hustle concerning water research in Iceland as it is for geothermal, geological or volcanic studies. For example, instead of building a new, the magnificent landscape marring dam for yet another hydroelectric reservoir, let’s explore more unconventional techniques, like the Schauberger river tube or salinity hydro power plants like in Norway.
In its three forms – liquid, solid and gas – water is almost omnipresent everywhere you go in Iceland: If it is the foggy clouds hanging on to the mountain tops, thousands of glacial or fresh water rivers, hot springs, this summers’ ever so persistent rain fall, the never melting snow patches on mountain north slopes or lakes. Almost 3% of Icelands land mass is covered with lakes, that is almost equivalent to the wooded land mass. Here some more water facts from Ísland:
Iceland water facts
12% of Iceland are covered under glaciers
The longest river in Iceland is Þjórsá (230 km long)
The biggest, natural lake is Þingvallavatn at the Golden Circle Þingvellir
The highest waterfall is Morsi in the highlands, measuring 227 m
The river with the most water is Ölfusá
Iceland has with 1.000 l hot water and 200 l cold water the highest per capita water usage world-wide
Friends and family often ask me while visting us in Iceland: What is the taste of Iceland, what is typical Icelandic food and what you have to try when you are in Iceland. Here goes my list of top 10 Icelandic delicacies, you should try to get the authentic Icelandic “smakk”. Continue reading Top 10 Icelandic Food Must-Try
Iceland is a music enthusiastic nation. The music scene seems to obey to the same laws of nature as the Icelandic weather does: There are ever changing bands, countless musicians & singers and unpredictable music projects. It is quite hard to stay up to date. I used my chance when the supermarket around the corner had a music CD sale, to get me some new supply. For research reasons only, of course. Continue reading My Random Icelandic Music Review
It has been a while that this thought was rambling through my mind: Does Iceland have a problem with overtourism? There are a lot of debates going on, about whether is does or it doesn’t. Read here why – in my opinion – it does. Continue reading Iceland & the overtourism question