Home in a Flash (part 4)

Jynx Shadowheart scanned the mountains with her binoculars. There was little that escaped her sharp eyes. Then she petted her two massive dogs. “Bruiser, Thor… It seems our hunt is nearing its conclusion.” 

Removing her custom, .450 magnum Smythe and Easton unicorn gun from its case, Jynx looked through its high-magnification scope. She could just make out two tiny figures in its cross-hairs, dangling precariously from a thread on the high cliff. “It won’t be long now. The cannery is going to pay us well for this one. And you two can have the scraps.

Meanwhile, Flash and Candy Cane returned to the team of reindeer waiting on the mountain trail by expertly rappelling the 970-foot drop. By the third pitch, Candy Cane had gotten pretty good at not opening her eyes while she was being lowered by Flash.

Before Candy Cane could even recover her composure, they were already careening back down the winding mountain trail in the speeding sleigh. “Somehow, we have to throw Jynx Shadowheart off the Kirin’s trail,” said Flash. “She’s a good tracker. I have an idea… But it could get messy.

Candy Cane looked at Flash’s wild hair, inside out-shirt and unmatched socks and shook her head in agreement.

“I can help!” said Candy Cane. “But I need to get back to the North Pole. I can use the golden key to get there in an instant. But I don’t know how to get back!

Arriving at the snowy meadow, Flash had Candy Cane help her pull the big red sack out from the back of the sleigh. It was a lot heavier than it looked!

Is that Santa’s..?” asked Candy Cane.

I needed something that was bigger on the inside than on the outside in order to fit everything into the sleigh,” said Flash.

What’s in it?” queried Candy Cane.

Probably better if I don’t say,” Flash replied. “But with the lighter load, you won’t need all the reindeer. Shred and Vexen can stay with me. We make a good power-trio!

Flash handed Candy Cane the map they’d used to get to their starting point for the trip. “Rebel and Raven will know how to lead the team back here from the little town where we started. See you soon!” And just as Candy Cane, the sleigh, and the ten reindeer vanished into a cloud of golden glitter… “Just watch out for the swamp!

With a little help from Shred and Vexen, Flash had soon emptied the contents of Santa’s dimensionally transcendental toy sack. Flash was very familiar with how it worked, having helped in its design. She actually got her job at the North Pole because of her degree in transcendental geometry, or shapes that are bigger on the inside than the outside.

Soon, a collection of massive black cabinets was stacked in a neat row at the edge of the meadow. Flash, Shred and Vexen were ready. Now all Flash needed was a crowd worthy of stirring up a mosh-pit.

Just then, a shrill voice echoed up from the trail. “What’s this? My welcoming celebration? It might as well be, since you’ve led me right to the unicorn’s lair!

Flash turned to see Jynx Shadowheart, with Bruiser and Thor at her side.  “Shred!” she called out. “Give me a G-sharp ten!

The reindeer quickly tightened up the high string on his guitar until it almost snapped, and struck a note… that no one could hear. At least, no one standing on two legs.

Bruiser and Thor Howled! They could hear the note. Jynx suddenly realized what was happening and raised her rifle. “Looks like there’ll be reindeer on the menu tonight,” she bellowed.

Just then, a loud hum broke through the forest. It sounded like a swarm of bees on an eight-shot caffeine buzz, and it was getting closer. Suddenly, a river of tiny lights poured out of the trees. They were fairies… seemingly millions of them, called out by the sound of that G-sharp 10 that Shred had blasted across the valley from his guitar amplifier.

Drawn by their whining, the little buzzing lights swarmed the dogs like a monstrous cloud of hungry mosquitoes.

Shred, Vexen! Full punk doom power!” cried Flash.

As Shred cranked out a round of down-tuned power cords, Vexen thundered on the drums. A huge clump of snow shook out of the trees, piling onto Jynx.  Then Flash grabbed a guitar, turned her amplifiers up to full Concorde take-off power, and unleashed a solo that knocked the unicorn hunter right off her feet.

Falling backward as the entire forest began to tremble to the awesome, thundering sound, Jynx’s rifle hit the ground with a loud “BOOM!” And at that, Bruiser and Thor had had enough and took off like two frightened rabbits, with the huge swarm of overstimulated fairies in hot pursuit.

Having come prepared for the sound of a .450 magnum anti-unicorn round, however, Jynx had brought hearing protection. Slipping on her Shell-Shok, -180dB, active noise-canceling headphones, she stood up and brushed off the snow. There was nothing more Flash could do as the now infuriated unicorn hunter picked up her rifle and reloaded.
They were doomed!

When what should appear, but a sleigh pulled by ten flying reindeer! If not for the 50-cycle hum from the wall of amplifiers, the forest would have gone dead silent as the band stopped mid note. Even Jynx stared as the flying entourage landed in the meadow and pulled up between her and the three questionable musicians.

Candy Cane jumped from the sleigh before it had even come to a stop. “I’ve brought help!

Behind her followed a large, serene and leisurely… cow, with big brown eyes, and a cowbell hanging from its neck. Both Jynx and Flash spoke simultaneously, “A cow?

Jynx!” called Candy Cane. And with that, the cow walked right nose-to-nose with the hunter.

Stupid cow!” shouted Jynx. “Get out of my way!” She reached out and swiped at the cow, smacking the bell with her hand, causing it to ring out.

“POOF!” A huge cloud of purple and pink smoke suddenly appeared right where both Jynx and the cow had just been standing. They were gone!

That was Betsy, the Pennsylvania wonder cow!” explained Candy Cane. “She used her magic bell to take Jynx off to someplace where she can’t cause any more trouble. I don’t think we’ll be seeing that awful unicorn hunter again.

So where did… Betsy take her?” asked Flash.

Where’s the nearest swamp?

Flash grimaced.

Anyway, I think this was a perfect vacation,” said Candy Cane. “I got to see Japan, go sledding, meet your sister, learn some history, climb a mountain, and save a family of magical animals!
Where should we go next?!

Flash grimaced again.

Oh!” said candy Cane. “I almost forgot to tell you… Your shirt is inside out.

Home in a Flash (part 3)

The Kirin first appears in ancient Chinese texts dating to the Zhou Dynasty (1046 BC – 256 BC), where it was known as the “Qilin” and depicted as dragon-like and covered in fire. It’s appearance was considered a good omen and a herald of peace.

In Japan, the Kirin was first mentioned in the “Kojiki” (711 AD), a collection of Japanese myths, legends, and histories. In the Kojiki, it is described as resembling a deer, but with a dragon’s scales, a tail like an ox, a fiery mane, and a single antler or horn.

The Japanese Kirin is seen as a serene being, moving through the world without harm. Consequently, they tend to appear during times of great peace, and only in the domains of wisdom and benevolence. They appear in Japanese carvings and paintings as symbols of peace and of virtuous leaders. And holy images of Kirin can also be found in temples and shrines.

The Kirin watched Santa’s two elves silently. And for several minutes, Flash and Candy Cane just stared back astonished, and not really sure what to do next. Candy Cane thought she saw a slight amusement in the Kirin’s expression, but decided that she must be imagining things. Eventually, the Kirin turned and began to walk away. The two elves followed.

The Kirin led them onto a ledge along a high cliff. Candy Cane looked down and it made her feel dizzy. After that, she kept her eyes focused on the tag on the back of Flash’s inside-out shirt, and followed closely. Eventually, the ledge widened to an amazing sight…

To their right was the entrance to a magnificent sanctuary carved directly into the granite cliff!

It’s the Kirin’s refuge!” said Flash.

Candy Cane, being the more focused and observant of the pair, pointed toward a figure of a peacefully sitting elf carved into the the stone at the far side of the entrance. “Then why is there an elf?” 

Flash thought for a moment. “I barely passed Elven History. But I think that’s the first chief-bureaucrat of the Unmei no Kuromori… the Black Forest of Destiny.

I mostly know about Elf history from Pennsylvania,” replied Candy Cane. “One was famous for hiding magic in the sounds of bells… like cowbells, and bicycle bells… and a big one with a crack in it that nobody rings anymore. Is the first chief-bureaucrat famous for something?

Flash was looking intently at the carving. “He was supposedly a really good negotiator. There’s a legend about him haggling someone down to zero. ‘I cannot tell a lie. I have nothing in my coin purse.’ ” Flash looked at Candy Cane. “I don’t think it’s a true story. But what if he made a deal with the Kirin?

What kind of a deal?

This,” said Flash, pointing to the magnificent shrine carved into the side of the mountain. “A safe refuge in exchange for the good fortune, peace, and blessings that come from the Kirin’s presence.

The Kirin looked directly at Candy Cane, and then turned, walking into entrance of the sanctuary. It was clear that he wanted the elves to follow.

Trailing behind the Kirin into a large room brightened by light let in through an arched window cut into the cliff, the two elves could see the reason for the Kirin’s recent absence. Sitting on the soft, sandy floor were the Kirin’s family… including two young fawns.

Suddenly, a very large crow flew in through the window. Gliding across the room, it circled the group before settling onto Flash’s shoulder. Candy Cane was surprised by its sudden appearance. But Flash didn’t seem to show much concern as the it spoke quietly into her ear.

Flash held out her arm, and the shiny black bird jumped onto it. “Tell my sister not to worry. I have an idea!” And with that, the great bird flew back out the window.

Turning toward Candy Cane, “A karasu… a messenger bird,” said Flash. “My sister sent it. Somehow, Jynx Shadowheart has found the trail toward the mountain. We have to hurry!

Home in a Flash (part 2)

Following a winding trail through the snow, Flash and Candy Cane descended into a valley with high cliffs on either side. “Be very quiet through here,” whispered Flash. “This is the Yōsei no tani, the Fairy Valley.

Oh! Fairies? How wonderful!” replied Candy Cane.

Yeah, one or two I guess,” Flash said quietly. “But then they’ll swarm you like mosquitoes looking for handouts. Get everywhere… You’ll find them hiding under a collar or in a pocket a week later. Make a big mess in the laundry.” Flash glanced up at the sheer cliffs on either side. “And whatever you do, don’t smack them! The noise might cause an avalanche!

At the far end of the valley, Flash steered the team up a side trail toward the base of the mountain. After a short distance, they reached a snow-covered meadow with a stream running through it, and Flash pulled the team up to a stop at a place where the reindeer could get a drink. Suddenly, a voice called across the snow as an extraordinarily beautiful and elegantly attired elf emerged… “Furashiyu! Anata no?!

It was Flash’s sister, Shiho! After a cheerful greeting, Flash introduced her to Candy Cane, explaining that her sister was, as her name implied in Japanese, a protector of the valley. English names just happened to be trendy around the time when Flash was born. Pronounced as “Furashiyu”, however, it evoked images of spilling hot water. Consequently, Flash’s having traveled abroad to take a job with better insurance benefits.

Flash explained to her sister about Jynx Shadowheart, and why she had to find the Kirin. But her sister said that no one had seen the magical chimera for several months, despite many efforts to call for it. And so, the valley had gradually fallen into more frequent misfortune as the good luck the Kirin had spread was gradually fading. As magical East Asian animals will sometimes do, the Kirin had simply retired quietly into the mountains. But no one knew why.

After a fond farewell that included directions to the currently fastest course up the mountain, Flash and Candy Cane departed to the trail. As the route grew steeper and more treacherous, any other team wouldn’t have been able to make the passage. But the twelve feisty reindeer wouldn’t be stopped. And with nowhere to land a flying sleigh along the dangerous cliffs, hoofing it was the only way to make the approach. Santa had picked the right team for the job!

Candy Cane peered uneasily out over the edge of a cliff as the team negotiated another hairpin turn on the narrow trail. “I don’t understand,” she said. “If the Kirin isn’t a unicorn, why is Jynx Shadowheart hunting it?

If we can find it, you’ll understand. The Kirin has hooves and the body of a deer, but with scales and a flowing mane like fire. And it has a single horn, so people sometimes confuse it with a unicorn.” Flash continued, “It’s gentle and kind, and it brings good fortune, prosperity, and protection. It’s one of the four noble animals, along with the Dragon, the Phoenix, and the Tortoise. The peace of the whole valley depends on its presence. If Jynx manages to find it first…

But if no one has even seen the Kirin in months, how will we find it?” asked Candy Cane… not entirely sure that she really wanted to hear the answer.

We’re going to have to climb to the top of the mountain,” Flash replied. “But don’t worry, I brought a rope. If you slip off the cliff, you’ll only fall a few feet. I can hold you.

Candy Cane suddenly realized that Flash wasn’t actually all that tall, or strong looking. And her shirt was still inside-out.

By early afternoon, the team couldn’t go any farther. The route up had turned into a narrow ledge along the cliff, only a few inches wide. Flash unhitched the twelve reindeer, set them up with a shelter, food and water, and gave them instructions to go back down the mountain without her if she wasn’t back by morning.

Then Flash reached into the big red sack in the back of the sled and pulled out a rope and some climbing gear. She tied one end of the rope to Candy Cane, and then handed her a mountaineer’s ice axe. “We’re off to the summit!” exclaimed Flash, as she started onto the ledge.

Two-hours later, Candy Cane opened her eyes again. The view was spectacular! They were above the clouds, and she could see what seemed like forever in every direction. So this was why Flash loved the mountains.

Beautiful, ne?” said Flash, with a slightly wistful tone while staring off into a familiar distance from the edge of the cliff. 

Yes…” replied Candy Cane from a safer distance. Then turning to spy something in the corner of her view, “Uh Flash… I don’t think we’re alone.

Home in a Flash (part 1)

‘Twas the morning after New Year, and Santa’s elf, Flash, was feeling unusually un-flashy and didn’t didn’t want to wake up. She had been standing next to the ginormous bowl of Chef-Salvo’s special peppermint-chocolate bark during the late night flying reindeer show at the North Pole, with the chipmunks Wilder and Angel on each shoulder so that they could have a clear view over the crowd. But every time Flash would glance down at the celebratory snacks, Wilder would whisper into her ear, “Eat some!” Then Angel would whisper into her other ear, “You heard him, eat some!

The alarm sounded, and Flash pushed the snooze button on the clock and shoved it under the bed. Why was the alarm clock on anyway? It was the start of vacation for Santa’s elves. Even the toy shop’s after Christmas clean-up and inventory elves were off. It was minus 25 degrees-Fahrenheit outside, and only slightly warmer in the bedroom. So she pulled her thick goose down comforter up over her head for a do-over.

“Bleep, Bleeep, Bleeeep!” The alarm kept getting louder and more insistent. Suddenly, Flash realized that it wasn’t the alarm clock… it was Santa’s emergency alert! She sat up instantly and picked up her phone.

Re-fueled by a second morning four shot espresso, Flash rushed off to meet Candy Cane who already had Flash’s team of reindeer ready to go. Candy Cane noticed that Flash’s socks didn’t match, her shirt was inside-out, and that her hair was frozen into a pillow-perm that looked suspiciously like something from a punk rock concert. She watched as Flash tossed a large red bag into the back of the sleigh as she climbed aboard.

Hey! Isn’t that Santa’s…” Candy Cane started to ask before Flash suddenly shushed her.

I’m ready to go!” said Flash. “But how are we going to get there? You know Santa grounded my team after that little Christmas Eve thing?

“I have Santa’s golden key. He said that I’m supposed to be in charge of it while we’re traveling.” Candy Cane looked down a little sheepishly. “I don’t think he trusts you with it.” Then she smiled. “So where are we going for our vacation adventure? A tropical island? The Swiss Alps?

Flash answered in an uncharacteristically low voice. “I’m going home.

Japan?! What fun! Tokyo? Kyoto? Will we get to go skiing in the mountains or go to a hotsprings and sit in the hot water… Oooh, a warm bath. How nice that would be!” said Candy Cane as her breath froze in the air.

No. None of those,” Flash replied. “We’re going to the Unmei no Kuromori… the Black Forest of Destiny.” She pulled out a map of Japan and pointed to remote spot in the north. “We need to get to an uncharted mountain in the middle of the forest. I know how to get there quickly from this town to the east. But we have to hurry. We’re in a race!

Candy Cane shook her head in acknowledgment, pulled a golden key from around her neck, and touched it to the map. And just like that, they disappeared into a billowing cloud of golden glitter.

No offense, but I sincerely prefer flying,” said Flash, while shaking bits of glitter from her hair and clothes. “But Santa said that if I could take care of this, that he’d be willing to forgive the little Christmas fiasco and restore the team’s aviation abilities.

Candy Cane didn’t say anything, but her ears turned a bit red. She knew about Flash’s impromptu Christmas Eve music performance in Tokyo.

I just wanted to bring a little Christmas cheer to some overworked salarymen. I didn’t mean to turn half of Shinjuku into a mosh pit.” Flash smiled. “Anyway, the repair elves managed to get everything fixed by the New Year… Did you know that they can make a whole window, glass and everything, or even a fire-hydrant out of just a piece of wood?!

It was dusk when the pair set off into the forest. Flash’s twelve reindeer may not have been allowed to fly, but they were still the fastest team at the North Pole. She sang out their names:
“Hey!
Havoc! Hey Shred! Hey Pogo, Hey Led!
Now,
Thrasher! Now, Crasher! Now Reckless and Vexen!
Go,
Misfit! Go, Scarlet! Go, Rebel and Raven!

Soon, they were dashing through the snow toward the mysterious mountain. The trees of the forest became a dark wall as the sun set. But Flash knew the way by heart. Every now and then, Candy Cane would catch a glimpse of some shadowy shape moving in the darkness, or of eyes watching them.

So why did Santa want you to come here?” asked Candy Cane.

We’re trying to reach the lair of the Kirin before Jynx Shadowheart finds it. Hang on!” Flash suddenly turned the team sharply to the left. “I want to avoid the yokai who lives in the Black Swamp. He’s always hungry.

Candy Cane looked confused, “Jynx Shadowheart? A hungry yokai?”

Don’t worry about the yokai,” Flash quipped. “It’s Jynx Shadowheart that’s the problem. She’s one of the best unicorn hunters in the world. And since canned unicorn meat has gotten so expensive, she’s been traveling the world looking for game.

“So there’s a unicorn in this forest?”

No!” burst out Flash. “It’s not a unicorn that lives here. It’s the Kirin!

They traveled all through the night. Suddenly, Flash veered the team sharply to the right where they deftly squeezed between two large boulders, and then emerged over a ridge to a spot where they could see out over the forest. In the distance, the sun was just rising over a rugged mountain. “That’s where we’re going.”

In the darkness behind them, a gloved hand reached down to pet two humongous dogs. “Bruiser, Thor… It seems you’ve led us in the right direction after all.

The Night Before Kurisumasu (in Tokyo)

‘Twas the night before Kurisumasu, and out with the boss,
The salarymen were tottering, all totally sauced;
They would soon be hungover, but nobody cared,
Tomorrow they’d sleep for the first time they’d dared;
With no children to wake them as they lay in their beds,
While karaoke songs replayed in their heads;
And mama-san in her apron, and I in my suit,
She cut off the drinks since I’d run out of loot,
When out on the street there arose such a blare,
I thought a black van with loudspeakers was there.

As away to the till went the last of my cash,
Some roguish figure tore in with a crash;
The moon cast a shadow onto the floor,
As a silhouette appeared in the light through the door,
When what to my half-open eyes hoofed near,
But a scooter pulled by twelve rowdy deer;
With a mischievous driver in such a great dash,
I knew in a moment it was Santa’s rogue elf, Flash!
More horsepower than Harleys, their thundering rang,
And she sang out by shouting their traveling stage names:

Hey! Havoc! Hey Shred! Hey Pogo, Hey Led!
Now,
Thrasher! Now, Crasher! Now Reckless and Vexen!
Play,
Misfit! Play, Scarlet! Play, Rebel and Raven!
From the top of the tables! From the top of the bar!
Now play away! Play away! Play like a rock star!”
As the windows that shattered when the Concorde would fly,
An ominous sound rose that vibrated my eyes;
And then like an earthquake shaking the room,
It rattled from the walls of the little saloon;
And over the housetops the thunderous noise grew,
‘Till it could be heard through all Shinjuku

Drums boomed, bass rumbled, guitars at high gain,
A wassailing siren and her ruminant gang;
She was dressed all in leather, from her jacket to her boots,
A collar with spikes, a deerwhip and catsuit;
A guitar amp behind her was blasting feedback,
From a Matamp GT through a double-high stack.
Dark eyes gave a wink, to my skipping heartbeat
,
Her hair like black fire, as she blocked my retreat!
Her sobering mouth was drawn up in a challenge,
Dueling lead solos if I felt thus unhinged;

A golden guitar jack she held in her teeth,
I took it not wanting to cause myself grief,
Plugged it into the Gibson by Vexen’s gig-set,
And shook when I found it down-tuned five steps!
It was heavy and metal from the pick in my hand,
So I thundered a solo in front of the band;
Another wink of her eye and a twist of her wrist,
As she joined in some heavy Yuletide pitch,
Shouted the last words of an epic finale,
Then dashed off with the band into the back alley…

Just as the police arrived to restore order and peace,
And giving a salute, through the streets as they screeched;
She sang from her scooter, as her twelve conspirators led,
Away from from the bedlam and mess they all fled;
But I heard her exclaim, o’er the din of loud cheer—
“Christmas is more merry, if you leave cookies and beer!”

Fire-Horse Nation

You cannot control your own population by force;
but it can be distracted by consumption.

– Noam Chomsky

Despite decades of government programs intended to encourage having children, Japan has now experienced nine consecutive years of population decline. And current trends don’t seem to be pointing in the right direction. August 2025 numbers released by Japan’s Ministry of Internal Affairs showed the country’s total population for 2024 as 122,631,432, a 1.51% decline in a single year! Moreover, the birthrate had dropped by another 5% last year, to its lowest ever. And next year will bring a Fire Horse!

As an overpopulated island country, bearing children has always been a balancing act for the Japanese. For most of the country’s recorded history, a third child could earn an entire family the status of a community burden. The Edo-era (1600-1868) euphemism, “mabiki” (間引き), meaning “thinning”, was an eastern Japanese reference to infanticide. In some parts of the country, it was a common enough practice to actually reduce local populations. It wasn’t until Japan opened to outside resources in the mid-1800s that a typical family might have four or more children.

“Replacement-level fertility” refers to the total number of children per female needed to keep a population size stable over time, without migration. It’s generally considered to be around 2.1 for most countries, although it can vary according to factors such as child mortality rates, average lifespans, or an overall population age distribution. After WWII, the fertility-rate in Japan was sufficient to keep its population growing through the 1960s. Oddly, however, very few children were born in 1966.

This was due to 1966 being a “Year of the Fire Horse”. An Edo-era story from puppet theater and popular books alleged that women born in such a year in the sixty-year cycle of twelve zodiac animals and five traditional elements of wood, earth, metal, water and fire were hot-tempered, and that they would rather gruesomely kill their own husbands. These years are consequently seen as an inauspicious time in which to risk bearing a potentially murderous female child.

So few children were born in 1966 that eighteen years later, Japanese college entrance acceptance rates surged by over 50% due to the lack of competition. The number of births bounced back in 1967. But then overall fertility-rates began to drop fairly steadily after 1970. And since 1975, the year my family left Japan, they have remained below replacement-levels.

With the exception of some mid-80s economic bubble years, the fertility-rate trend stayed downward until 2006, when government incentives combined with a strong Yen to encourage bigger families. But within a decade, birthrates had again started to drop. And since the pandemic years, the decline has been precipitous. In 2024, the country’s total fertility-rate fell to just 1.15.

Japanese women are simply choosing not to have children for a variety of reasons. Some are economic, such as cost-of-living, missing work or high childcare costs. Work pressures, such as long hours and a stigma associated with working mothers also discourage women who work from having children. And the Japanese social reality is that as populations have increasingly shifted from close-knit countryside communities into the fast-paced blaze of city life, the social foundations once provided by family have been replaced by conspicuous consumption

Concurrent to its low number of yearly births, Japan is now also experiencing a “mass-mortality” phenomenon due to the high average age of its population… which could be “good” or “bad” depending upon one’s perspective. But the net effect is to also elevate replacement-level fertility numbers as the country’s overall population plunges. If one walks around some of the central neighborhoods in Tokyo, this phenomenon has become visible as shuttered local businesses and abandoned homes… or homes that merely appear abandoned because the people who live in them are simply too old to care for the properties anymore.

Japan’s new Prime Minister, Sanae Takaichi, has called this population decline the country’s “greatest problem”. As a response, she instituted the creation of a new government department known as the “Population Strategy Headquarters”. Its primary purpose will apparently be to establish local family social services, and to improve rural living conditions in ways that would attract a younger population. But in an interesting rhetorical reference to immigration, it will also develop ways to “promote coexistence with foreign talent.

Immigration is, however, a currently somewhat controversial topic. Japanese society places enormous emphasis on community harmony, social order, and collective responsibility. The social structures, expectations and relationship-building aspects of Japanese culture extend from the workplace into general societal norms. And these social expectations define much of what it means to be “Japanese”.

This is why Japan has a reputation as one of the world’s safest and most efficient countries. It’s a cooperative mono-culture, where mutual trust provides the social currency necessary to maintain a high standard-of-living. When a society doesn’t have to expend resources repairing vandalism, insuring theft, policing crime, or housing criminals, then those resources can be applied to infrastructural benefits such as healthcare, transportation, human-services or disaster-relief. But it also means that Japanese culture has little ability to tolerate disorder.

Foreigners only account for about 3% of Japan’s total population. Contrast this with the high standard-of-living and tiger-economy of Singapore, where 13% of its citizens are permanent-resident immigrants, and a whopping 29% of the population is temporary-immigrant labor. Immigrants in Japan, however, are mainly associated with a disproportionate number of crimes. The majority of those crimes involve immigration violations, such as overstaying visas or working without proper authorization, which aren’t threats to public safety. Unfortunately, however, Japanese immigrants have also become associated with more serious crimes.

Official data shows the number of arrests of foreigners for major crimes, such as murder and robbery, have indeed increased over the past decade. And per-capita crime rates are overall significantly higher among foreigners when compared to native Japanese. But much of this represents a broad interpretation of what are in actuality localized phenomena. A recent example is with regard to a Turkish refugee population in Kawaguchi City in Saitama Prefecture, which has a per-capita violent-crime rate that’s over fifteen times that of the native Japanese population. In response, Economic Security Minister, Kimi Onoda, has suggested that it’s time to start deporting those immigrants who don’t want to coexist with Japanese society. 

Unfortunately, Japanese media often generalizes coverage of such incidents, which contributes to overall negative perceptions of immigrants. This has resulted in a current proposal to offset the monetary costs of immigrant crime by raising foreign residency fees from an equivalent of a few tens-of-dollars per year to as much as $400 next year, and later to perhaps as much as $1,000. Regardless, when crime statistics are interpreted according to individual immigrant groups, most actually show serious crime rates fairly consistent with the native Japanese population… or lower. In fact, many immigrants do assimilate and even go on to raise families in Japan. 

How Japan can address its collapsing population while maintaining its cultural identity in the process raises difficult questions. Such a regimented society makes for an admirable harmony; but it can also be stifling. For a new generation of Japanese families, the nation will also need to sell its young population on a future that promises more than the mere distraction of consumerism. And if the solution is to arrive as immigrants, then the native Japanese population may need to accept the loss of some parts of its culture. Regardless, Japan’s rapidly declining population portends a social and economic conflagration that the country will be forced to extinguish.


Further Reading and References:

Fifty years since the decline of total fertility rate to below 2.1 | Japan Center for Economic Research. (n.d.).
https://www.jcer.or.jp/english/fifty-years-since-the-decline-of-total-fertility-rate-to-below-2-1

Hernon, M. (2025, November 21). Japan to significantly raise foreign residency fees from 2026. Tokyo Weekender.
https://www.tokyoweekender.com/japan-life/news-and-opinion/japan-raises-foreign-residency-fees/#691f9a2466098

Kincaid, C. (2025, November 23). Could South Korea or Japan disappear? Japan Powered.
https://www.japanpowered.com/japan-culture/south-korea-japan-disappear
(Chris Kincaid’s article at Japan Powered looking at this issue from a longer-term perspective is what precipitated this post.)

Kirkegaard, E. O. W. (2025a, April 14). Blog. Clear Language, Clear Mind.
https://emilkirkegaard.dk/en/2025/04/race-and-crime-in-japan/
Related data from the Saitama Prefectural Police Department (Japanese):
https://www.police.pref.saitama.lg.jp/documents/31689/reiwagonennohannzai.pdf

McCartney, M. (2025, November 20). Japan says population crisis is ‘Biggest problem.’ Newsweek.
https://www.newsweek.com/japan-says-population-crisis-is-biggest-problem-11078544

Weekender Editor. (2025, May 1). Japan’s Population Crisis: Why the Country Could Lose 80 Million People. Tokyo Weekender.
https://www.tokyoweekender.com/japan-life/news-and-opinion/japans-population-crisis-why-the-country-could-lose-80-million-people/

Dragon Lights

In Japan, winter light festivals are kind of a big thing. Traditionally, they would involve paper lanterns… lots and lots of paper lanterns. How people would manage to get thousands of lit candles into huge masses of hanging paper lanterns without starting an epic conflagration, I have no idea. But in more recent years, especially since the successful introduction of a sort of commercial “Christmas”-time, big L.E.D. light displays have become more popular. Some of them are actually pretty impressive.

Locally in the US, however, we have our own version that gets set up in a nearby, bigger city park… the, “Dragon Lights”. And this year, a friend and I decided to take a trip down the hill to check them out. There were several themes in the event: “Chinese”, sea life, and a sort of imaginary forest. The “lights” are actually like large, themed, internally-lit lanterns. Each one is rather a work of art, and seem like they must have required a great deal of labor to produce.

At any rate, this is just going to be another photo blurb.
For anyone interested, I was using a 15mm, f1.4 lens on my old Sony APSC camera for the shots. They’ll open up to about 50% resolution. Editing was minimal.

The Dragon!

The Green Griffin. Sometimes, he’d move… and occasionally blow smoke.

The Lantern Passage. Kind of a Japanese feeling.

Ocean Passage.

A large, hungry-looking crustacean of some type. He doesn’t seem to have noticed me yet.

Squid. Now I’m hungry.



Flashbacks!

Mushrooms… That explains it.

The Unicorn blew out the camera’s poor little sensor.

A Pegacorn!

Descent

Every worthy act is difficult. Ascent is always difficult.
Descent is easy, but often slippery.

— Mahatma Gandhi, Courageous or Cowardly, New Delhi, 23 November 1947.

My dad first taught me how to ski in cross-country gear when I was maybe eight or nine years old. As I became older, the boots became heavier and the skis became wider, as I learned how to get them to turn on down-slopes. My dad also taught me how to use “skins” to ski uphill…
and how to locate buried skiers with an avalanche beacon.

Years later, I accompanied my dad on a winter trip to the state of Washington, where we learned how to ski on glaciers. The instruction included a review of crevasse rescue, something I’d first learned about several months earlier. Thinking about this, it probably explains the claustrophobia I sometimes feel in confined spaces. 

Still, I’ve never been a particularly good downhill skier. I never really learned how to properly use ski-bindings that hold a boot’s heel down, something useful for safely negotiating steeper or more technical terrain. But that didn’t necessarily keep me from trying in some moments of more-or-less painful instances of experiential learning.

For me, skis are mostly a way to escape while accessing a kind of beauty that not too many people get to experience. They can also make for an easier return after reaching a high-elevation objective. That trip to Washington with my dad would prepare me for a roped and cautious ski descent down a glacier on Alaska’s almost 5,000-meter tall, Mount Sanford. But that trip would also cure me of any further ambitions to reach those kinds of altitudes.

Last May, I wrote about an expedition to Mount Everest that had been covered in media, mostly due to press-releases. The summit attempt was intended to publicize the use of medical technologies and pre-conditioning to allow four men to reach the 8,849-meter high summit in a record time. But the whole thing struck me as more of a publicity stunt intended to promote expensive selfies as opposed to actual “mountaineering”. Regardless, another recently promoted Mount Everest summit attempt actually left me deeply impressed.

As I mentioned in my May post, nearly all climbers reach the summit of Mount Everest while using supplemental oxygen. But on September 22, 2025, the Polish mountaineer, Andrzej Bargiel, summited the mountain without supplemental oxygen. Moreover, he carried up a pair of skis which he then used to ski back down via the South Col Route. The following day, he then skied down the “Khumbu Icefall”, a feat I didn’t even know was possible. The icefall consists of the massive shattered ridges and deep crevasses formed by the constantly moving Khumbu Glacier, which blocks the bottom of the approach to the South Col.

Much of the attempt was filmed, and sometimes guided by a drone that was flown by Bargiel’s brother, Bartek. Some of the drone footage is utterly astounding, really showing the scale of the endeavor. In other places, we get to see Andrzej Bargiel’s perspective as he struggles merely to stay standing in the thin air of Everest’s “death zone”, coughing as fluid slowly fills his lungs.
And knowing what it would mean to fall into a crevasse alone, the icefalls were simply terrifying.

Worthy of a full screen…

 

Please Get Out of My Way.

…if a man has not discovered something that he will die for,
he isn’t fit to live.

Martin Luther King, Jr., Walk to Freedom, Detroit, 23 June 1963.

I’ve been watching the 2024 version of Shōgun, the historical drama based on the 1975 novel by James Clavell. I have to say, I’m rather impressed. Most of the actors are Japanese, a majority of the dialogue is in Japanese (if somewhat “jidaigeki), and the production is pretty authentic to what I know of 16th-century Japan.

I’ve never read Clavell’s novel, which while fictional in detail is based on actual people and events from late 16th-century Japanese history. This was a pivotal moment in Japan, marking the end of the country’s Feudal period, or 418-years of near continuous civil war.

Japan’s Feudal period began in the late 12th-century when the “shōguns”, powerful Japanese military leaders, replaced the imperial court as the country’s central government. Generals loyal to the shōgun were compensated with land and regional powers, becoming the feudal lords known as “daimyo”. But some among the daimyo would eventually grow in power enough to challenge the authority of the shogunate with their own private armies.

This resulted in the rise of the “samurai”, or more accurately, “bushi” (武士), who were an elite professional warrior class. For bushi, war was a way of life that often included entire families. The term “samurai” more accurately denotes service as a trusted retainer to a daimyo. So for bushi as samurai, this amounted to pledging one’s life to a daimyo.

Alliances of convenience among the daimyo, and sometimes even the civil authority of the imperial government, would form and wane through generations as power shifted. And by the mid 15th-century, Japan had become a society that existed in a state of almost constant internal warfare. During this time, Zen Buddhism began to strongly influence the development of a bushi philosophy and an associated code-of-behavior. Much of this emphasized salvation through self-discipline, applying it to Confucian ideals of loyalty and duty.

After 415-years, this pattern of endless warfare would ultimately culminate in the monumental, “Battle of Sekigahara” on 21 October 1600, in which at least 30,000 combatants would lose their lives. But the result would be a subsequent two-and-a-half centuries of peace, economic and cultural development, and isolationism under the unified leadership of the “Tokugawa Shogunate” during Japan’s subsequent “Edo period“. It was during this time that the bushi philosophy would become consolidated into various forms of a doctrine known as “Bushido”, or the “way of the warrior”.

Japanese samurai are usually associated with the use of swords, and primarily the “katana”. With its long curved blade and single sharpened cutting edge, it is intended to be drawn and used quickly in a single slashing motion. In 1588, the right to carry swords was restricted only to samurai, making the wearing of swords also a display of elite social status. However, the sword was not typically the first weapon of choice in warfare.

Especially before the introduction of firearms, the primary weapon of a samurai was actually the “yumi”, an asymmetrical longbow with a shorter lower limb. This design allowed for the bow to be more easily used from horseback, or from behind protection. At over two meters in length, properly drawing and releasing arrows from a yumi requires significant strength and years of training.

Regardless, a skilled samurai on horseback could accurately release an arrow every few seconds while riding at full gallop. These arrows, called “ya”, would be tipped with a variety of different types of steel points depending upon the intended target. In warfare, this allowed for long-range attacks before closing on an adversary.

At closer quarters, however, foot soldiers especially would utilize a type of gripped spear known as a “yari” (). Yari were usually equipped with a long and thin, pointed steel tip intended to puncture through armor. These steel tips also sometimes included cross bars or hooks, which were intended to keep an impaled enemy from pushing any closer. But there was also another common polearm.

The “naginata” (薙刀, “mowing sword”) consists of a metal or wooden pole with a long, single-edged, curved blade on its end. The pole extended the reach of the blade, which was intended primarily for slashing and cutting. During warfare, these could be swung at an enemy in order to break lines or to combat cavalry, and were sometimes used by mounted samurai and foot soldiers, as well as warrior monks.

A form of the naginata, the somewhat lighter “ko-naginata”, is the iconic weapon of women of the Japanese nobility. Nearly all women of status were trained to use these weapons to protect themselves, as well as their homes and children. Because of its reach, it could be used to sweep an area clear, or to keep an attacker at a distance. The naginata was also effectively used by female warriors. The legendary female samurai, Tomoe Gozen (“Lady Tomoe”), was said to have wielded the weapon with great skill.

Sixteenth-century feudal Japan was an at once extraordinarily beautiful, and extraordinarily violent society. And the introduction of Western weapons, such as early firearms and cannons to Japanese battlefields only served to amplify the latter. Important to the context of what the story is attempting to illustrate, the 2024 Shōgun doesn’t shy away from depictions of this violence. It was a utility to the Japanese society of the time. Life was seen as but a fleeting moment in which to appreciate beauty. Purpose came only from dedicating one’s self to something greater.

I won’t get into the plot or the story-line of Shōgun, which is placed during the lead-up to the Battle of Sekigahara, as there are plenty of other sources. But a pivotal character in Clavell’s story is “Toda Mariko” [family name, given name], who is based on the historical, Akechi Tama (明智たま), also known as Hosokawa Gracia (細川ガラシャ).  From an aristocratic bushi family, she lived from 1563 until her death on August 25th of 1600. After learning both Latin and Portuguese, she was baptized as a Christian in 1587, taking the name Gracia

In 1600, the feudal lord Ishida Mitsunari attempted to force Gracia’s husband into joining his side in the coming battle by effectively holding her hostage at Osaka Castle. Unwilling to accept the disgrace, Gracia was said to have had a family retainer end her life since her Christian beliefs would not allow suicide. Her death severely damaged Ishida’s reputation, causing him to lose the support of many generals, several of whom were probably also Christians themselves. These defections would ultimately result in Ishida Mitsunari’s defeat at the Battle of Sekigahara.

Clavell’s version of the real-life Gracia in the character of “Mariko” illustrates the feudal Japanese ideal of samurai bushi, while also bringing together much of the preceding story through her use of the ko-naginata. Meaning is established through a formalized, but unyielding loyalty, even if to fight against one’s own destiny is futile. Whether or not such a death is worthwhile is left to the viewer, as Clavell didn’t take a side in what constitutes “barbarity”.

Warning! Bloody content:


Notes about some of the images:

“A Medieval Japanese Archer” is a lithograph by Émile Théodose Thérond (1821–1883), and Jean Gauchard (1825-1872). I believe that it was drawn from a photograph with a posed subject, probably taken around the end of the Edo era in 1868 or shortly thereafter. Personal collection.

The arrow points (“yanone” or “yajiri”) are all Edo era (1603-1868). The longer-shafted points were sourced from the Kobe/Osaka region. The others are from the Tokyo/Chiba area (Edo). Some of the smaller points were made with the same craftsmanship as that seen in traditional blades, and were signed by their makers. Personal collection.

Japanese Print, “「英勇一百伝」 「巴御前」” (“One Hundred Tales of Heroes” “Tomoe Gozen”), by Utagawa Kuniyoshi (1851).
At the Tokyo Metro Library: https://ukiyo-e.org/image/metro/H020-004

Battlefield Archery: This is a link to a ceremonial demonstration of “kyujutsu”, or battlefield archery. The archers first demonstrate a “Sashiya”, where a group of archers release a steady stream of arrows. This is followed by a “koshia”, where the archers advance in alternating ranks. This was intended to pin-down enemy archers, allowing spearmen from their own ranks of a “kumiyumi”, or a group of archers and spearmen who have trained to work together, to move forward. The headwear signifies that these archers have been temporarily blessed as Shintō priests while they perform as entertainment to the gods of the shrine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJVC6ExVUi4
There’s a good article here.

Dealing with Feudal Bureaucrats  Partially just for fun, but also because it depicts a fairly accurate use of the katana, or long sword. These were not “fencing” weapons; rather, they were a utility. This is the sequence preceding the accumulation of bodies (and body parts) visible in the background during Mariko’s confrontation with the replacement entry guards. The bushi-samurai assigned to Mariko-sama by Lord Toranaga would indeed have followed her direction without question. Observing appropriate formality, however, the samurai bows respectfully in recognition of the bureaucratic status of the official in charge of the gate. What follows is an example of “Iaijutsu” (居合術).

This is a response to an attack starting from the “saya”, or the katana’s sheath. As the gate official reaches for his weapon, the samurai immediately disables his would-be attacker in a single move of the katana from the saya (takes off his opponent’s fingers), dispatches his assistant, returns to conclude his business with the official, shakes the blood from the katana, and then replaces it back into the saya in a span of five seconds. Efficiency!

 

 

Yosemite’s Back Door

This country, with its institutions,
belongs to the people who inhabit it.

Abraham LincolnFirst Inaugural Address (1861).

Taking advantage of a local October tradition to shut down the town for a week, combined with the US government’s decision to see which political party can hold its breath longer, we decided to make a dash into the Yosemite high-country while no one was watching. Heading south down US-395, our route took us over a pass known for its autumn trees. Still a little early for full color, the area is at 8,143 foot (2,482 m) Conway Summit. The view is to the southwest, toward the peaks of the Hoover Wilderness.

From the eastern side of the Sierras, the national park’s entrance is reached via Tioga Pass on California State Route 120. This is the southernmost pass for traveling entirely over the Sierra Nevada Range. With most of the route lying within a high-elevation section of Yosemite National Park, the pass usually closes for the winter in late October or early November (closed today as I’m writing this). And overnight parking along the road isn’t allowed after October 15.

From its junction with US-395 at the south end of the town of Lee Vining, the route ascends 3,000 vertical feet over twelve miles to the eastern park entrance. The Yosemite National Park entry at the 9,945 foot (3,031 m.) summit is usually backed up with traffic while visitors have their reservations checked and and hand over a $35 “parking fee”. However, the reservation requirement had been lifted for the remainder of 2025, and no one was manning the entry station. And since the park is “cashless”, there was no way to pay. Oh well… 

Our only real destination for this trip was 10,620-foot Tresidder Peak, which was named after the 1943 to 1948 President of Stanford University. This mountain actually has two prominences, a lower northern peak, and a somewhat higher and more difficult to reach southern peak. There’s also another interesting tower of rock along a ridge to the south known as Columbia Finger. This mountain had been on our radar since a trip up nearby Cathedral Peak in late 2017. Reaching our destination would require staying in the higher elevation, Tuolumne Meadows region of the park. 

Northeast toward Tenaya Lake, which is at an elevation of 9,039-feet.
Tresidder is on the other side of 10,266-ft Tenaya Peak, which rises to the right of the lake.

Tresidder Peak from Upper Cathedral Lake.

The Columbia Finger, flipping off bureaucracy from its 10,360 foot perch.

High country hiking.

After a couple of days in the high country, it was time to head back to the alternate reality of “civilization”, thus justifying a trip into the Yosemite Valley part of the national park for grub and gasoline. This is the part of the national park with which most people are familiar. Despite the government shutdown, the valley was mostly business-as-usual since its public services are mainly run by a contractor, “Yosemite Hospitality” (aka: Aramark). This meant that everything from gasoline to groceries, and even the valley shuttle busses were fully operational.

Half Dome from the Curry Village area of the valley.

It was the usual traffic into the valley, with people stopping to take pictures. But this time of year avoids the back-ups and traffic jams that are why Yosemite started requiring reservations to enter the national park several years back. Still, the crowds were far less than we expected; and it was fairly easy to get ourselves parked right in the central, Yosemite Village area. That left us with plenty of time for lunch and to be tourists.

Yosemite Falls and the Lost Arrow Spire.

A leisurely drive home over Tioga Pass would take us back into Lee Vining by late afternoon. And after a dinner at one of the local mom-and-pops, we made a stop by the US Forest Service, Mono Basin Scenic Visitor Center… which was closed. It’s an interesting facility with good bathrooms; however, it’s usually shut down in the winter. This time, however, the website hosted a rather more terse message. Meh… whatever.

So, we walked ourselves around the back of the building where we could watch the shadow of the eastern Sierras settle over Mono Lake…