Flavours and conquests- my South American food journey…so far

Whenever I travel, I like to make a list of foods to try. I’m not the most adventurous eater and there are lots of things I don’t like but I’m usually willing to try things, especially if they are local, traditional or have a story behind them.

Years ago, I fell hard for the caipirinha – think mojito, but elevated. Memories of sipping them around a backyard fire still linger. So, arriving in Brazil, I was thrilled to taste the real deal, made with native cachaça… and at $2.50 a pop on Copacabana beach, I didn’t hold back.

From IBA:

The caipirinha is a Brazilian cocktail made with cachaça, sugar, lime, and ice. The drink is prepared by muddling the fruit and the sugar together, then adding the liquor. 

Next up: empanadas, the ultimate street food staple across South America. Armed with research (thanks, pre-trip article!), I dove in… and quickly realized there were too many flavors to conquer. Still, the few I tried were a delicious start!

Ñoquis, or gnocchi as I know it, is not something I would normally eat. But give me a good story and a tradition and I will tuck in.

I think one thing that I have eaten in pretty much every country I’ve been to is a burger. Hamburguesas, chivitos…I was introduced to some interesting versions of the hamburger on this trip.

Most interesting was the national sandwich of Uruguay—the chivito.

From the spruce Eats:

The chivito is the national sandwich of Uruguay. Its importance in the country is on a par with hamburgers in the United States, fish and chips in the U.K., the Cuban sandwich in Cuba, and steaks in Argentina. This sandwich is not for the faint of heart or appetite, either.

The chivito combines beef, bacon, ham, and a fried egg for a hearty meal. Using grilled steak ensures delicious, smoky flavors that boost the sandwich’s taste. Salsa golf, a mix of ketchup and mayonnaise, adds a fun, tasty condiment.

Chivito

Inside the chivito

We also fell for the pancho, South America’s sassy take on the hot dog. But ‘just a hot dog’ it was not – these were surprising flavor bombs.

From Serargentino.com, where the history of the pancho is described, including its connection to Germany:

Here, the hot dog is eaten with seasonings like mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup and golf sauce. Some adhere hot sauce and sometimes it is adorned with the famous  “rain of potatoes”

Panchos hidden under all that cheese

The choripàn is a type of asado sandwich with grilled chorizo. It is popular in Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Paraguay, Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Venezuela. The name comes from the combination of the names of its ingredients: a grilled chorizo sausage and a crusty bread (Spanish: pan) such as a pan batido, baguette, or francés.

Choripàn with Fernet con coca

What would a blog post about food in Brazil/Uruguay/Argentina be without mention of asado?

From webstaurantstore.blog:

The word asado is a multifunctional term that describes the method of barbecuing meat in South America, the meat itself, and the social event associated with the meal. Much like American barbecue, asado has a unique cooking method, cultural traditions, and specialty sauces that accompany it. Whether you’re incorporating traditional Hispanic foods into your menu or catering a barbecue, asados are comprehensive experiences that will delight guests. From its grill to its cultural roots, read on to discover everything you need to know about asado so you can host and prepare your own.

Last, but definitely not least (given the body count… er, consumption), were the alfajores.

From Lucilas:

Alfajores probably originated in the Middle East and reached southern Spain as far back as the 8th century when the Moors occupied the Iberian peninsula. The Spanish version of the alfajor then made its way to South America in the 16th century with the invasion of the Spanish conquistadors. The “modern” style of Argentine alfajores, similar to Lucila’s classic flavors, dates back to the late 19th century.

In Argentina, alfajores are usually enjoyed with family and friends gathered around the table sharing yerba mate tea (or coffee) and chatting about the day’s events. They are a perfect complement to a morning coffee or tea, as an afternoon snack or a stand-alone dessert.

As the photos prove, we went all in on the stand-alone dessert option, determined to crown the most scorable alfajor. Cookie, dulce de leche… could it get any better?

My favourite of all!

Argentine food is renowned for its beef, so I indulged in asado at every opportunity – and it lived up to the hype! The dulce de leche was just as divine, whether it was drizzled over ice cream, layered in cakes, or devoured straight from the spoon. Italian influences shone through in classics like the milanesa and ñoquis, which were absolute treats. Of course, no trip is complete without a few misses, and mine were flan and Yerba mate (though based on the photo, I’m not sure I really missed out by not trying the mate)– guess I’ll just have to go back for seconds.

Mate

As I bid adiós to South America, I’m left with a full belly and a full heart, already planning my next culinary adventure. Until next time, hasta luego, amigos… and pass the alfajores!

Hop on but don’t ever hop off!

I wish someone had given me that advice at the start of the day.

The last full day of the trip started with a morning wander around the cemetery in Recoleta. This was the first public cemetery in Buenos Aires, inaugurated in 1822. I love a good wander around a cemetery, and this is a good cemetery so I was really looking forward to checking it out. Some of the mausoleums were well-kept, while others had broken windows and plants growing inside through cracked concrete. You could see the coffins inside some which startled me. Some had stairs that led down to more coffins. A couple had doors cracked open which added to the mood.

Some had stairs leading down…

My favourite was the tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak—the statue was beautiful and so was the poem from her father. When I read the story about her, it made me appreciate it even more.

From Wikipedia:

26-year-old Liliana Crociati de Szaszak (1944–1970) was in Innsbruck, Austria on 26 February 1970, when her hotel was struck by an avalanche, killing her. Her tomb was designed by her mother in the Neo-Gothic style, in sharp contrast to the other tombs in the cemetery. Adjacent to the tomb stands a dais adorned with a plaque containing an Italian-language poem by her father, and topped by a life-size green bronze statue of Crociati de Szaszak in her wedding dress, by sculptor Wíeredovol Viladrich. Following the death of Crociati’s dog Sabú, a bronze statue of the dog, also by Viladrich, was added, with Crociati’s hand resting on the dog’s head.

I should have taken more notice when my camera battery died halfway through. Little did I know this was a predictor of how the day might play out. Luckily my phone was charged (for once) so I switched over.

We decided after all the walking the day before that we would get back on the hop-on hop-off bus to go back to places we had yet to see or wanted to revisit. What we didn’t realize was that once we hopped off, we would not be able to hop back on so easily.

We disembarked to go to Café Tortoni, the oldest café in the city where people like Borges sat and had coffee. Unfortunately the wait was hours long and we had places to go and things to see. We headed to Librería de Ávila, the oldest bookstore in Buenos Aires, possibly the oldest in the Americas. A quick pop into the Farmacia de la Estrella, constructed in 1895, and some of the nearby churches.

We stood at stop #5 and watched as more than 7 buses pulled up, (we stopped counting), told us they were full and pulled away again. Finally a bus pulled up with space for 2 and we were off again. Normally I would have been happy to walk along but the money, the time… what an exercise in patience.

There were things to revisit and souvenirs that stuck in our minds from the day before so we headed back to El Caminito. Back on the bus and over to Puerto Madero and then it was time to call it a day. Our last full day in South America was probably the best weather day (only 27 degrees)—I think it was the first day of the trip that I wasn’t sweaty!

Some lessons learned during my first trip to South America:

  • Avoid walking on wet patches on sidewalks—there is usually a dripping air conditioning unit above.
  • Uber is not always reliable—more times than not our ride was cancelled at the last minute.
  • Don’t buy a Sube card for the subway. After my last comments about being able to figure out metros around the world, we didn’t take one ride on the Subte. Finding someone who sells the Sube card is HARD and even when you do get a card, no one seems to know where to load money on it.
  • Hop-on Hop-off bus—a great way to see all the neighbourhoods of the city but plan your stops well. And pack your patience. Trust me!
  • Postcards are easy to find, stamps not so much and mailboxes the hardest. I am returning home with postcards that have stamps on them but didn’t get mailed.

And just like that, my first adventure in South America has come to an end. Not sure what I expected but it has been a great trip, a wonderful experience and I am excited to explore more.

Until next time!

Dear Diary,

How are you? It’s been so long! Remember me? Remember when I used to write in you all the time? I used to tell you about the weather and about how there wasn’t much going on to write about.

Today when I was walking I saw all these torn up scraps of paper on the road. They made me think of you. How many January 1 entries have I made? Just like all those other times, as this new year starts I am thinking about all the new (and sometimes forgotten) habits I want to develop in this coming year. I have missed you, so let’s try again!

Remnants of someone’s diary on the street

These benches look like discarded furniture all along the sidewalk but they are concrete.

Dear Diary,

It’s the first day of a new year—2026. Today was a cooler day, only 29 degrees. Yesterday was hot, and when I say hot, I mean really hot. It was 39 degrees. I was sweating in places I didn’t know I could sweat.

Because it was New Years Day, we weren’t sure how many things would be open so we had planned to just wander. And wander we did! We walked over 12 km today- from Recoleta to Retiro, through Montserrat, then through San Telmo and on to Boca. Oh, Diary, my feet were tired by the time I got back home but what a way to start a new year. I love walking and I love exploring.

Nothing much happened during those twelve kilometres. I took pictures. I ate some things. At one point a lady came up to me to tell me it was dangerous to walk around her neighborhood with my camera out so I put it away. It’s funny because I had just made the comment that I hadn’t felt uneasy at all in Buenos Aires. Oh well. I appreciated her comment and it reminded me to be cautious. Dear Diary, do you think sometimes I am too trusting? I don’t think I am.

Here are my pictures. These are all the things I saw in Buenos Aires on the first day of 2026. Hope you like them.

Because it’s the beginning of the year, a lot of people are talking about changes they are going to make. Sometimes I find that inspiring. Sometimes I find it intimidating. Some people seem to be doing so much. Here is a list of things I think I want to start doing this year.

  • A weekly highlight jar. I don’t want to have to search my memory for the good things that happened at the end of the year so I am going to write one thing down each week that was the highlight of the week. That should be easy.
  • A nightly day dump. Not quite as it sounds, each day I am going to journal: 1 thing that took too much effort, 1 thing that helped me get through the day and 1 thing that I am proud of. This seems easy but I bet this one will be challenging for me.
  • “If I’m being honest…” Once a week, I am going to write one sentence that starts with this. That’s it. Just write it down. I am not sure I am honest with myself enough. I think this could be a big one. Maybe if I write things down it will inspire some change.
  • Make daily lists again. I love lists, dear Diary. Remember how many I used to share with you? All the times I listed the changes I wanted to make, or the things I wanted to try? I still have some of those lists…maybe I should check them in case there is something to cross off!

Thats a lot, eh dear Diary? But I think I can do it. It’s getting late now so I should go to bed. I’ll try to write to you again tomorrow. Sleep well, dear Diary. xo

Goodbye 2025, Hello 2026!

This year started off a bit rocky so I was determined not to end the year the same way. For once I planned my New Year’s Eve—something I haven’t done in a long time.

Each year, as one year ends and another begins, I reflect on the year, trying to remember all the good things that happened. It’s funny though how often the not-so-good moments are the ones that come to mind first—for me, anyway. This year I decided to reflect not just on memories but by going through my photos to see all the wonderful things that actually happened—the things I chose to capture, and the people I have shared these moments with. What a year it has been! Some of the highlights as I scroll through my photos—I visited 11 countries, 8 for the first time, saw James in concert, saw Oasis in concert!!, got my motorcycle license and spent quality time each month with people I love.

I started the year with some uncertainty but feel I am ending it with clarity. Sometimes I need to remove myself completely or put myself right in the centre of things to gain perspective. Lighter, and ready to embrace change and new experiences, I am excited to celebrate the end of 2025 and welcome 2026.

The planned event to end 2025 combined a few things I love—meeting new people and having new experiences and good food and wine. I booked a 9-course tasting menu at Fogòn Asado, recommended in the MICHELIN Guide Argentina 2024/2025. Sooooo exciting!

And here is a taste of the evening and tasting menu- what an experience! There were Americans, Danish, British and us!

I attempted to make my hair less crazy, though it was 39 degrees out today, and 32 when we headed out at 8pm

Welcome drink with gin and something

Ember-roasted eggplant , ricotta cheese with fresh herbs

Ironed provoleta cheese, grilled pear in torrontés reduction

Molleja, roasted tomatoes and ginger sauce

Morcilla, quince and apple chutney, chorizo, ember-roasted bell pepper, griddle-baked bread

Choose your knife!

Slow braised asado al papillote

Pork flank steak (Matambre), yellow chilli sauce, lime and cilantro salad

Pine cone smoked ribeye cap, creamy cauliflower purée, flame-roasted corn
Ribeye, mashed boniatos, grilled vegetables with the chef’s vinaigrette

Port, but not port. Argentinian “port”

Branding the Fogòn pancake

Pancake with dulce de leche and whipped cream

Champagne to toast in the new year!
Our crew! ❤️

And just like that, it was 2026!

Here’s to it! xo

Collecting moments and memories

Our last day in Uruguay we decided to do a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, one of the oldest towns in Uruguay. Its historic quarter is a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site.

We did a bus tour which was easy but so long. It was hot (surprise!) but I mean hot enough that locals were even commenting about the heat.

Our first stop was at the Hotel Nirvana (a Swiss hotel) for coffee and croissants and a break. I wasn’t sure why we needed a break since we’d just started but I took the opportunity to go and wander the hotel grounds and lie in a hammock while the iguanas came out to play.

The stop at the Colonia sign was a bit chaotic as everyone scrambled to pose with the sign during our 5 minute stop. Next up was Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos, a massive bull fighting ring that was built in 1910, held 8 bullfights and then was closed down two years later when bull fighting was banned in Uruguay. It sat empty for over a century until 2019 when plans were made to refurbish and repurpose it. Now it’s used as a performance space.

As soon as we stopped in the town and were on our way, I was determined to find a restaurant that served ñoquis. The 29th of each month is Dia de Ñoquis- gnocchi day! And this was the last 29th of 2025 so I figured it was as good a time as any.

From The Spice Chica’s blog: The 29th of the month was just before payday — people got paid on the first of the month — so by the end of the month, money was tight and all that was left in the larder was potatoes and flour. Gnocchi, or ñoquis, are the perfect solution as they are filling and not expensive. The 29th is also the day when an Italian saint, Saint Pantaleo, who had many miracles attributed to him, was canonized. So the tradition of the 29th is said to honor him.

Now families and friends gather on the 29th to eat gnocchi together for good luck. Some restaurants only serve gnocchi on this day, and many offer gnocchi specials. At dinner, for extra luck and prosperity, the tradition is that everyone at the table gets a peso coin or note under their dinner plate. “We put money under the dinner plate and the person keeps it, we only do this on the 29th, not on a Sunday.”

I ordered traditional ñoquis (along with about half the other people in the restaurant), slipped some pesos under my plate, and ate it up. Here’s hoping for 2026!

Whilst waiting for the bus in the morning a man came up to talk to me. He was from the tour company, asked my name and then started talking to me in Portuguese. I can speak some Italian, understand some Spanish but understand even less (though more than I expected) Portuguese. Twice the day before (based on my look and initial words) and this time because of my name, people think I’m from Brazil. Maybe it’s the hair…

Anyway, when I told him I was heading to Colonia he commented that it was a really hot day to be going to Colonia. Apparently it would be even hotter there than in Montevideo. He wasn’t wrong. It was hotter than hot. It’s like permanently being in a hot yoga class.

Of course hot weather calls for ice cream so we wandered, had some ice cream, wandered some more, had an alfajor with some mint and ginger lemonade and then boarded the bus to head back.

We made a quick stop at a museum/jam & dulce de leche factory. The museum was a man’s collections. He has a Guinness record for his collections. On display are all his pencils, perfume bottles and key rings, along with a few other groupings of things. I always find displays such as this inspiring… they make me want to go home and purge!

When we got back to town it was nice to see things open. It’s funny because where we were staying in the old town the weekends were like a ghost town. I had read to expect this but like always, even though I knew this it wasn’t until I’d experienced it firsthand that I really understood just how closed up and quiet it would be. But then on Monday, all the people returned; everything that had looked desolate and abandoned and long forgotten was open. Ciudad vieja was alive once more!

The next thing to cross off my list of foods to try was a pancho- an Uruguayan hot dog. Not sure I’ll ever look at a hot dog the same again. This was the pancho passiva (an open bun either two hot dogs, ham, roasted red peppers, mayo, mustard covered in cheese and topped with an olive. It was quite tasty. I have to say, a food list in this heat is tricky…although I’m walking all day, being so hot and sweaty doesn’t make me hungry. No worries, for the purpose of the blog and this experience, I will soldier on.

Last stop is Buenos Aires. New country, new city, new list…and a new year!

Alfajores Galore

Then there were alfajores. Chocolate, cookie, dulce de Leche? How on earth have I never heard of these heavenly delights?!?! They are everywhere so I decided to do a taste test to see if there was a difference. These four were the first. Everywhere you turned, there was a promociòn! Who can resist a sale? Not me, even if I have no idea what they normally cost.

Juana la Loca

Look at that layer of dulce de leche!

Juanito

More cookie than dulce de leche…bit dry
Juana la Loca con merengue (best yet!)
Milka (least favourite)
As dry as it looks.

I’ve spent the last two days just bumming around and wandering in Montevideo (MontehviDAYo) so this is going to be a photo post more than anything.

Saturday- Breakfast at a café that was once a pharmacy, a bus tour around the city, a really long, hot and sweaty walk along the Rambla, eating a chivito (one of the biggest sandwiches I have ever eaten), then bumping into a parade on the way home.

Cooking at the parrilla starts early!

Chivito!
I’m not sure how I did it but I ate it all!

Sunday was market day so I was up early to experience the Feria de Tristan Narvaja—a flea market that takes place every Sunday. It was massive! Some pictures with statues, more alfajores to sample, and finally a return trip to Mercado del Puerto.

Ordering my first empanada 🙂

Nothing says tourist like me!

Amethyst everywhere!

Walk around with a camera and people want you to take their picture!

A female-owned parilla

Buenas noches, amigos!

Montevideo Me Gusta

This was a day for travelling. The taxi was at the front gate by 530 and it was off to the airport. A quick taxi ride took a little longer than expected when it was realized that something was left in the hotel room. The taxi driver didn’t speak English. After a few failed attempts at communication I told him what had happened in Italian, he repeated in Portuguese and we made a quick return.

At the airport, when I went to pay he said he would settle up with Giovanni (the father and son taxi/tour company I’d travelled with in Brazil). When I was queued to check in, I received a message from him asking if I could find an ATM to get money to pay him. Seriously! This wasn’t doable since my bank card was frozen so I made a deal with him in US dollars and a handful of Argentinean pesos.

Ha! How impressed is this face?

The flights were short and comfortable. Arriving in Uruguay I realized I was seated behind someone connected to Inter Miami (the football team). He wasn’t with Messi but he knows Messi so that’s kind of cool. Seemed fitting to have this reminder of soccer(football) since Montevideo is the place where the first World Cup took place.

NOT MY PHOTO!

I’ll be honest, before this trip I didn’t know much about Montevideo or Uruguay. I still don’t. But of course, now that I’m here I’ve been doing some reading.

Our driver from the airport took us on a tour as he drove to the hotel. He told us about the city, and gave us ideas about what to eat and do.

I added his list to my list! First, of course, was asado: (from remitly.com)

Asado is more than just a way of cooking meat – it’s an art form that requires skill and patience. The process of preparing an asado involves selecting the right cuts of beef, seasoning them with salt and pepper, and then cooking them slowly over a wood fire. The grill master, or asador, carefully tends to the fire, adjusting the temperature and adding more wood as needed.

What better place to try asado for the first time than the Mercado del Puerto where most of the restaurants are parilladas (think steakhouse). I quickly realized I should have done more research as the menu was overwhelming. In hindsight I should have just ordered by saying, “I’ll have what they are having”. Lesson learned! I came back, did some reading and have very specific ideas about what to order next time. And there will be a next time.

I am staying in the Old City which is cool but I’ve been advised it is probably wise not to go out walking after dark. Luckily I get up so early and spend so much of the day walking and sweating in the humidity that I’m pooped by the time the sun is setting.

Guard dog!

Canadians!!

Some ice cream and a wander and that was it for Day 1 in Uruguay.

Cash is king

I am fortunate. When I want something, I can usually buy it. I have a decent job and make decent money so have been able to create a lifestyle for myself where I can have the things I want.

Today we crossed the border from Brazil into Argentina to see the Argentinian side of the falls. All was going according to plan until we got to the ticket counter of the national park and my Visa wouldn’t work. Apparently no Visas would work. There was something going on with the machine.

No problem! It’s for this reason I always carry a Mastercard for emergencies. Well, lo and behold, it didn’t work either. You’d think at this point I would have been starting to panic but no, of course I had a backup for the backup—my debit card. Problem solved. Cash is king, so they say, so I would just withdraw cash and pay with that. Well, seems my debit card wasn’t working either.

I was starting to get frustrated. Everyone was starting to get frustrated. No one could get in the park! Next option was to buy tickets online. Unfortunately this wasn’t working either. At this point I was feeling annoyed. And to be honest, I was getting ready to just pack it in and leave. Then came the last idea, the least desirable idea of any possible idea, to withdraw money from one of my credit cards. Success, finally! This worked.

Back in the line which was extra long by this time since this all transpired over the better part of an hour, and finally I had an entrance ticket. I even withdrew money for a Malaysian couple who also had no way in. They were kind enough to repay me in US dollars- the extra money they paid pretty much paid for my own entrance so maybe it was all worth it?

After entering the park I noticed that I had a text message and two new emails. Turns out my debit card and Mastercard had been flagged for fraudulent activity so that’s the end of them! I will have to call to reset my cards so hopefully Visa will come through for the rest of the trip.

I’m happy to say that the trip to the falls was worth it. It was different from the Brazilian side. There were butterflies everywhere, there was tons more walking and there weren’t any water filling stations like in Brazil. We were never without water in Brazil because there was filtered water at every turn. Both were amazing and I’d happily do both again.

Green and yellow on the Brazilian side, blue and white on the Argentinian

From the falls we hopped on a bus to go to the spot where the rivers converge and you are on the edge of three borders, Três Fronteiras, Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina.

Paraguay to the left, Brazil to the right and Argentina underfoot!

I am at the point in every trip where I start to reflect on things—where I am in life, what’s been happening and where I’m headed. Not sure if it’s because it’s the holidays, not sure if it’s because I’m tired, not sure if it’s because I’m getting older, but I’m sentimental…a bit nostalgic…

I’m reflecting as well on what I want and what I need. I always feel that a trip is a great time to make changes. It almost feels like a bit of a reset and I think I’m ready for that.

People were out and about in town for Christmas dinner and the little downtown was hopping. One last toast to my family and friends and it was time to call it a night.

Don’t go chasing waterfalls

And just like that, it was time to move on from Rio. Next stop was Foz do Iguaçu. This was possibly the stop on this trip I was most excited for. I remember going to Victoria Falls in Zambia and being awestruck. I love our Niagara Falls. I knew these falls wouldn’t disappoint.

When we arrived in Foz we decided to walk around to find somewhere to eat and stumbled upon Espeto e Prosa. As soon as he heard us speaking English, Pietro came over to help us order and to have a chat. Service was awesome and the food was delicious. They had a cachaça sampler so of course I had to try it before buying one of their caipirinhas. We ordered a grilled meat platter and it was so good!

I told Pietro I’d include him in my blog. He told me he learned all his English not at school but by playing video games. Perhaps this is a counter to all those claims of how bad video games are—Pietro’s English was excellent. If you’re ever in the area, look them up! They are new and I hope they’ll have great success.

Pietro
Cachaça device
When in Foz do Iguaçu…

Giovanni had picked us up from the airport and was super friendly so it seemed like a good idea to hire him for the next day to take us around as the transit wasn’t as convenient as in Rio.

Breakfast started at 7 so I was first in line. I was up early and excited to head to the falls as soon as it opened.

We were on the first bus out and were amongst the first down to the first lookout. I was like a kid in a candy store. Every time I rounded the bend I was excited to see what was coming. The water thundered, the birds were singing, the air was hot and so humid, the sun was shining and there were rainbows—it was a perfect morning,

Many of those who know me know I love birds so of course I opened the Merlin app to see which birds were singing to us on this Christmas Eve. On today’s list: Tropical Parula, Great Kiskadee, Saffron Finch, Ruddy Ground Dove, Saffrom-billed Sparrow, Pale-breasted Thrush and the Yellow-bellied Elaenia—all new birds for me!

Happy to see a lifeguard thought I’m not sure how she would have got to us if we fell in the water. She’d never have heard us from there.

There was a statue waiting for me as we exited the park so of course I had to stop.

From there we headed to the Parque des aves to see the birds. We wandered, bird-watched and then sat and ate some lunch as a massive storm rolled through.

The common Potoo- they were everywhere! They were so well-camouflaged you really had to focus to find them.

We weren’t far from Três Fronteiras where the borders of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina meet. We are heading to Argentina tomorrow so figured we might as well head to Paraguay after the falls. It was a quick stop, just to the mall to see what they had, and then we headed home.I bought myself some champagne to celebrate Christmas tomorrow. By this point I was pretty tired.. it had been an early start and the heat and humidity really take their toll on this old girl.

A shawarma for dinner and I was ready to call it a night. As I type this, the fireworks have already started and every now and again Christmas carols can be heard. I finally saw some decorations, including a Santa in the street and a bedazzled lit up car.

Not to worry, I bought myself a little something in case Santa can’t find me here.

Happy Christmas Eve!

Let’s Go!

When I think of Rio de Janeiro, after I dream of caipirinhas I see Copacabana beach, Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf mountain. I have learned in my travels that even though it may be doable to plan and organize and get yourself somewhere, sometimes it is nice to let someone else take you there. With this in mind, I booked a tour with Carioca tours to go see the statue and the hill. The drinks I could manage without help.

Karla and Waldamar arrived right on time to pick us up. Booking first thing in the morning was an attempt to avoid the heat. I’m not sure that’s even possible in Rio, and Karla confirmed this when she told us that Rio has two seasons all year- summer and summer plus!

We passed Rocinha favela on the way to Corcovado. The experience from the previous day was still sitting with me. Karla was awesome. She asked at one point if she was talking too much but I told her that people who say interesting things are always a treat to listen to and she was definitely one of those people. It is so true that a good group leader can make a group. Karla is a mighty force, having started guiding groups in 1995 at the age of 30, hoping to continue for at least ten more years doing what she loves—sharing her love of Rio with visitors.

We made our way up to the Christ the Redeemer statue where there were throngs of people. And people wanting space to do fancy poses with the statue. It was a lot. And it was hot. But the views were breathtaking and the statue was pretty cool to be up close to after all the years of seeing it in images.

From there we went to Sugarloaf mountain via two cable cars. The views out over Rio de Janeiro were amazing…almost as good as if you’d gone up in a helicopter. I guess I’ll save that for next time.

Make a wish a walk between under the sign and through the tree

Once the tour was over, instead of stopping back at the hotel, we asked Karla to be dropped off at a subway station. All it takes is one successful (or even one semi-successful subway journey) for me to think I can go anywhere. I have yet to meet a transit system I can’t figure out.

I was in my glory as I stumbled upon a bunch of statues on the way to the next thing to check off my list- the Royal Portuguese Reading Room.

From THE ROYAL PORTUGUESE READING ROOM

The Royal Portuguese Reading Room is one of the most important symbols of the Portuguese presence in Rio de Janeiro and holds one of the largest collections of literary works by Portuguese authors outside Portugal. Founded on May 14, 1837, by a group of 43 Portuguese immigrants, the Reading Room’s main goal was to create a space for reading and cultural dissemination for the Lusitanian community in what was then the capital of the Brazilian Empire. It was a way for these immigrants to keep their cultural and literary traditions alive on Brazilian territory.

In addition to being a cultural landmark in the city, the Reading Room reflects the influence of ideological movements that shaped Brazilian society in the 19th century, particularly Freemasonry and positivist republican thought. These movements left their mark on the formation of cultural and literary institutions, such as the Portuguese Reading Room, as it was called then, which became a meeting point for the intellectual and political elites of the time.

Initially, the group met at the home of lawyer António José Coelho Louzada on Rua Direita, nowadays called Primeiro de Março. Later, it occupied locations on Rua de São Pedro and Rua da Quitanda, the tricentennial commemoration of Luís de Camões’ death motivated the group to seek larger headquarters. They purchased a building on the former Rua da Lampadosa, now called Rua Luís de Camões. Construction of the new building began in 1880, based on a design by the Portuguese architect Rafael da Silva e Castro, and it was inaugurated in 1888.

Th3 reading room was breathtaking. And there were performers inside so the experience was extra special.

Wandering around gave me the chance to photograph some of the people and every day things happening. I am fascinated by people and love capturing “mundane” everyday moments.

We stumbled upon a market and got lost in the maze of stalls. I spotted a speaker I’d been looking at before my trip and decided to see how the price compared to back home. It was a quarter of the price and the sales guy was fantastic and super helpful so I bought it.

By this time I was getting tired. The heat definitely wears me down, especially with my mop of hair. It was a perfect opportunity to head back to the hotel to take advantage of the free bottle of bubbles that came with check in.

I saw a couple getting a big dish of fries covered with cheese and I joked asking if they were eating poutine. One of the couple was Eric, a man from Montreal who was thrilled to hear people speaking English and even more thrilled to meet other Canadians in Rio. He was with his new bride Nalu who was originally from Brazil. We had some laughs and then left them and headed out for dinner.

I love taking time whilst travelling to stop and think about what’s going on in my life. When I’m home and working, life is busy. I find it hard to stop and reflect and sometimes even catch my breath. Travelling provides me the space I need to reflect.

I had mentioned before about being surprised about the lack of Christmas in the air. Well that changed on this night. The Christmas cavalcade went by, including Santa, and the Christmas carols were on full blast.

It was the last night in Rio which called for celebratory caipirinhas. The next day it would be time to pack up and move on to stop #2.