Many of you may not know this, but I am not just a ex mountain climbing, hiking, half marathon running, agate hunting, beach walking cyclist. Yes, I do have a job…
I work for an auto insurance company, which means I speak with people all over the United States. Today I was speaking with a representative from another insurance company. As we talked, I learned she used to live in the Northwest.
Now, as we all know work is hard. (That’s why we calls it work!) But its nice when you can have some fun during the work hours. Her not having someone cranky on the phone and from a place she used to live may have been the best part of the day.
We talked a bit, and then she said, “I was so glad we moved! There is no place more depressing than the northwest in the winter! It’s always dark and dismal.
In my head I thought about this….
and this…
And this….
All photos from the winter months!
Yes it is true we can have many dreary days. This year, our front yard weather station is in spittin distance of 100 inches of rain! However, a bit of rain does not stop a true coast kid!
There is no such thing as bad weather, just poor clothing choices!
There’s more though… and not everyone knows this.
In the late fall, winter and early spring, the weather is much tougher. At any given time, it can turn on you! There can be an off shore squall! More than once a cloud like this has drenched me!
Please don’t get me wrong. I loves a good summer time beach walk or sunny warm bike ride.
But, after coming up on the 7th winter here at the coast, I am dancing like frosty!
Because when the sun sets sooner and the winds pick up magic happens, at least at the Oregon coast!
Agates get bigger.
Sunsets get prettier.
And holy cow, the waves! King tides hit in the winter months! The highest tides of the year. Combine it with some wind and …
Wanna see the king tide photos of mine that made the news??
But it doesn’t have to be a king tide! Today after work, I ran a few errands and stopped at the beach to see the waves! NOT a king tide, but a high surf advisory. Was it worth the stop?
I have lived in the Northwest since 1978. I love it here. I don’t appreciate that it gets dark early in the winter, but I do love that it stays light forever in the summer. I revel in the outdoors whatever month it is. I have the right gear to survive whatever nature throws at me!
I do understand why so many stay away from the northwest in the winter, and yes, I may encourage that a bit to keep down the crowds…
But Wow, if they only knew what they were missing in the winter!
We true northwesterners never stop people when they say it rains all winter and they don’t want to visit. Down deep though, we do feel bad knowing they are truly missing out!
Last week I did a post with my tips for finding agates here on the central Oregon Coast.
As I said then, I am no expert, but I find a lot. My wife Michelle and our good friend Sarah both suggested I should do one on spotting whales.
Now once again, I am NO expert! But in my 6 years Living here in Lincoln City, I have seen my fair share of California gray whales. Which is the most common whale on the Oregon Coast. My wife is a better at spotting than I am, but I am no slouch.
I am also talking about seeing them from the shore. Though we’ve considered it, we have never taken a whale watch trip here at the coast. If we ever do, I want to take on of these little guys.
instead of a bigger one like this.
It just looks like more fun to me!
Here on the coast though, you can see them from shore, and, no lie, sometimes as close as you can from the boat. This fella was 10 feet off shore.
Most are not, though, so it can take a bit of work and practice to see one.
Tip 1: If you want to see one, go to the water
This may sound silly, but I have had people tell me they have come to the Oregon Coast for decades, and never seen a whale. However, they also have said they have just looked from their cars as they drove by. Now Michelle and I have spotted whales while driving, BUT, it’s not a preferred method, especially if you are the driver.
Pull over, park, get out of the car, and spend some time looking at the ocean. You will have a much better chance.
Tip 2: Bring binoculars but use your eyes first
Binoculars are a must! I own 3 pairs, and always have some with me! However, I think starting with your binoculars at first is a mistake. The binoculars do bring whatever you are looking at closer. However, at the same time, they limit the amount of ocean you see. You get focused on one small spot, and a whale could spout 10 feet away and you’d never see it!
I recommend you scan with your naked eyes first. Either start on the left or right, then slowly turn your head looking for a spout.
Once you see one, then grab the binocs around your neck and zoom in. You can see a spout from miles away, but the binoculars will let you see more of the whale.
Tip 3: Once you finally see your first whale spout, its easy to spot them
Many people look at white crashing waves, or splashes and think it’s a whale. There’s no shame in this, I still get fooled. But there are three things about a spout that will help you.
The spout is MUCH finer that a wave splash.
It looks much more like a mist than a splash. In fact, if the light is just right, it can have a rainbow
The second is that when it shoots up, assuming it’s not too windy, it will just linger there. You will have time to shout “There’s a whale spout, and people can turn and see it.
Finally, it will just appear sometimes where there are no rocks or crashing waves. You will be looking and will understand the phrase “THAR SHE BLOWS!” Cuz that’s just what they are doing. the whales are coming to the surface to exhale.
I am not kidding though. Once you see a whale spout for the first time, you will be able to see them on the windiest days. It just has a look!
Couple of spout stories. Both at Depoe Bay.
I was at Depoe Bay on an afternoon bike ride and I stopped to see a whale spout. This younger couple walked up, and she was looking at the water. He was sounding angry. “This is stupid and boring, ” he whined, “Let’s go do something fun! There’s no waves here!”
Welp, I dislike whiners, and clearly the lady wanted to see a whale! So I kindly pointed out, “HEY LOOK THERE! He is spouting again!” She saw it and was jumping up and down! She proceeded to sit on the wall to watch. The jerk just glared at me for proving him wrong. I just smiled and pedaled away.
Another time, I took a ride after work, and was eating a cookie (I like cookies!) while sitting on the sea wall at Depoe bay. The whales were putting on a show. I had thought about riding farther, but why waste a group of whales showing off? I was just sitting and minding my own business, when a lady sat next to me.
I said hi, and she told me her tale of woe. She was traveling the coast, and really wanted to see a whale. She had been there all day and struck out. As she said this, no lie, 3 whales spouted. I just smiled and said, “There are no less than 7 whales, in the bay right now in front of you.” And took another bite of my cookie.
I could tell she didn’t believe me, so I leaned a little closer and said “Now watch for a misty spray, that’s a whale spout. RIGHT THERE IS ONE!!” She saw it and I swear she squeed. Then 3 at once spouted and she hit my shoulder “There’s one, there’s another OMG they are everywhere! ” (I may have had a bruise or two after) Her friend came over hearing her shout and she started telling him how to spot them. I took my last bite of cookie and headed home.
Tip 4: Whale Karma is real.
I do believe this! If you see a whale, especially if someone helps you see your first one, you are now bound by the whale code to help others see one as well. If you do not, the whales will not show themselves to you again. It is known! Be fair warned!
Tip 5: Get some height from the water
There are rare exceptions. This jumpy video was taken from the sandy beach. The whales were playing just off shore
When you are on the beach itself, even though you can think you can see forever, the lower your are, the less your sight distance. Places like Boiler Bar and Depoe Bay view points are 30 -50 feet above the water, this helps a lot when it comes to seeing whales.
Tip 6: Time of year.
If you follow the coast news at all, you will hear about whale watch week. At the end of March, thousands of whales are heading north to Alaska from Mexico. At the end of December, they go back south again. People come from miles around to see them. The trouble is, these migrating whales are usually miles off shore. I rarely see one during this time. (Though my first year here, we saw 50 spouts while at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay) you just never know.
We are lucky at the central Oregon Coast to have 40-60 resident gray whales who live here year round. Now looking at my records, I have seen, given any month, a whale at least once in the last 6 years. However, if you want the best shot at seeing them up close.
Then your best bet is from the end of July into the beginning of October. I rarely go a bike ride without seeing multiple whales! They can be honestly, 10 feet from shore. You will hear them breathe before you see them!
Tip 7: Whales tails are cool and have a meaning
Everyone including me LOVES to see the whale tail. But there is a reason you see it. In general, I have found a whale will keep moving in the same direction and spout 3 or 4 times. After the last time, he will go under for a few minutes, and will appear usually a little further along the same path.
However, when you see tail, it means the whale is going deep. You would see him again for 10 minutes or more, if at all. If he does come back up, it can be anywhere. This is the time to put down the binoculars and scan again.
Tip 8: Use the whale boats and crowds.
If you see a whale boat, or better yet, more than one, stopped in the water, keep a close eye out. They are likely there for a reason, namely, whales. I much prefer seeing them without the help of a whale boat, but I am not too proud to cheat!
On the same idea, look for people pointing. Everyone loves to see a whale, and remember what I said about whale karma. If you see a people looking out toward the water, pointing and excited, chances are it’s a whale! Follow those pointing fingers.
Tip 9: Locations
Like I’ve said, I live at the Central coast, Lincoln City. There are a few places I have had the best luck at seeing a whale. They are listed in order most whales seen.
1. Depoe Bay 2. Boiler Bay 3. Whale Cove 4. Otter Crest Loop 5. Cape Foulweather Lookout. 6. Yaquina Head Lighthouse 7. Devil’s Punchbowl
I look everywhere in my travels, but these are the best.
Tip 10: Just ask
There are volunteers at the Whale watch center in Depoe Bay and the gift shop atop of Cape Foulweather. These folks are a wealth of knowledge and will do their best to help you see a whale. There are times there are other volunteers in locations like Devils Punchbowl. There are there to help, and love people (and dogs I have noticed) so say hi and see if they can help.
Don’t be afraid to ask other people though. That family who looks like they are settled in the for the day with spotting telescope. Or the lady with a camera lens longer than your arm. Or that guy on a bike who happens along.
Helping someone see their first whale enhances our own whale watching experience. We are excited to see a whale every time, but, for me at least, I love seeing a person, like a lady from Michigan last weekend, see her first whale ever. When I do this, I know I have made a life long memory! And if you get the rare grump, ask someone else!
Tip 11: If its in the same place 3 times, it aint a whale its a rock!
If you are new to whale watching it’s easy to do. There is a splash and you see a dark object. “Martha look! It’s a whale!!” Most great whales you see are not the move and feeding. Rarely though, I have seen a whale spout in almost the same location twice. NEVER has it been three times. So if it happens, you are looking at a partially submerged rock. Start scanning again in other parts of the water.
Finally, it’s not an official tip, but it’s important. You may not see one. Its ok. You were still at the beach and saw some amazing things. There is always next time!! Keep watching and thanks for stopping by!
Almost everyone though, walks on the beach. They enjoy the waves
And the sunsets
And, some search for agates (I found these today)
First off, what is an agate? Ta google tells us “An agate crystal forms within the cavities of other rocks in acidic to neutral environments. Its formation occurs by the accumulation of silica-rich groundwater in rock voids, over thousands of years. In fact, these chalcedony veins mostly develop within the voids of volcanic igneous rocks and plutonic igneous rocks.”
It also tells us, “Agates are grounding stones that have stabilizing and strengthening influences, bringing balance to one’s life and reducing stress levels. Their healing properties are believed to help with many ailments bringing about balance to the physical, emotional, and mental well-being.“
I describe them as the rocks so shiny and clear you can almost see through and they glow with light
They come in many different sizes and shapes, this one was amazing
this was later after going though the rock tumbler
This one was much smaller but no less amazing
They can be tiny, almost too small to pick up, or baseball size and bigger. (more on that later)
I live in Lincoln City on the Oregon coast. When we would vacation here, I never even thought to look for agates. In all the years we came here I never found a one. Since living here, it’s rare I go to the beach and don’t find at least one.
People ask me how I keep finding them, so I thought I’d share my method.
First off, I do not dig for agates. Digging a hole seems too much like work. The agates I find are sitting on top of the sand.
Now I do carry a sand scoop
I got it on Amazon, search Sand Scoop. It makes for less bending, I can dig a little, and rinse off what I find. I carry this on every beach walk! Many times I have snagged an agate with it just before the waves suck it back to the ocean!
OK now for Tidepool Tony’s Agate tips…
Be safe! At the Oregon coast, the rule is never turn your back on the waves! It doesn’t matter what season it is, a sneaker wave can knock you over, or throw a log into you. Don’t risk your life for a rock. This is no exaggeration, I have had to full on sprint to avoid a big wave, especially in the winter! Who knew you needed cardio to hunt rocks?
Also dress for the weather. Rain and wind can hit anytime here. I have made it back to my car teeth chattering and soaked through, even with my gear. Be prepared!
2. The farther you can walk, the more luck you will have. People stick to the beach access points. Walking in sand aint easy. If you can, go long! Leave the beach accesses and keep a going. My longest, and most successful agate hunts are 5-7 miles round trip. I get to places others can’t or just don’t get to. The rewards can be worth it (found this a couple weeks ago, can’t wait to see it come out of the rock tumbler!)
3. Look for patches of gravel. The more gravel you see, the better chance there is you will find an agate. I like to walk back and forth, to the water and away, on big gravel patches. You would be surprised how many times I’ve found a stellar agate on the 3rd or 4th pass that was just sitting there the whole time! Persistence can pay off.
4. Look when there is no gravel! That second heart shaped one above. I found it all by its lonesome in the sand. Remember, the ocean decides what to share with us, keep an eye out to see its gifts. Even if you are in a mile of sand, a keen eye can be rewarded
5. I tell all beginners one key idea. When looking for agates, look at any rock that aint gray or black. The majority of Oregon coast rocks are volcanic and, as mentioned, gray or black. Those aren’t agates. But looking and any other color rock can bring you an agate. It might also give you red jasper
Or even petrified wood
I tell folks all the time, it’s ok to bring any cool rock home, if it not an agate, toss it in the garden for color. It’s better to take one home than to leave something that could be amazing.
6. Low tide is better than high tide. Low tide exposes more beach and therefore more gravel, so find a tide chart or tide app for wherever you are hunting. I will tell you, my best agates though, are found about an hour or so AFTER low tide. The tide is coming back in, and churning up the gravel. I have spent an hour on the same gravel pile, sprinting to avoid a huge wave, and coming up with huge beautiful rocks! Remember patience, persistence and cardio!
7. Night or twilight hunting is fun! You need a reliable light source
You also need a good ear! At night, especially in the winter, it’s hard to see the sneaker waves! BE CAREFUL if you try this, but I love the solitude after dark. It’s not something I recommend for a beginner!
8. The light test! Scroll up and look at the photo with the phone. Agates, and those rocks with agate tendencies will glow with a light source. If she don’t glow, it aint an agate. I’ve been hunting 6 years, and I still bring home sucker rocks! (those I thought were agates but they weren’t.) Those get tossed in the rockery in the front yard.
9. Other hunters. First and foremost be courteous. If someone is hunting an area, give then some room. They were there first. However, about 15 feet after I pass them its fair game! Also, if I am walking and someone is ahead of me hunting. I do my best to pass them. Once I do so, they now have to look for my left overs. The cardio fitness from out running sneaker waves helps you to walk faster and farther than other hunters!
ALSO! Even if a gravel patch is mobbed, keep looking as you walk through it! Damned if I haven’t found some very nice agate that no less than 20 people have overlooked! Agate hunting is all about being in the right place at the right time!
10. Big agates happen!
My own personal theory is this: People ignore big rocks cuz they think agates are small! Taint true! There is no harm in bringing home a big ole rock you find that could be an agate! This one I found Friday glows with a cell phone like you would not believe! A couple in front of me walked right past me! And check out this behemoth.
It was sitting just past the waves and I know there were others there before me! But it was just too big, no one gave a second look! A once in a life time rock!
11. Don’t be disappointed. I hear many people complain that they got skunked agate hunting, they didn’t find a one! Seemed like their trip was ruined.
Folks, a key part of agate hunting is that you are at the beach! There is no bad day for a beach walk! Look up, see the sees, hear the sounds, smell the smells. Enjoy the beach! Who cares if you don’t find an agate, you weren’t at work!
So I hope this helps anyone who wants to look for and find agates. I am sure there are better tips from more seasoned hunters, but these worked for me so….
HOLY COW!!! Wait! I forgot one of the most important things!
12. AGATE KARMA! It’s a thing! When I am hunting I help others. Many have never seen an agate, so I show them mine. I try to keep some polished ones in my pocket to give to anyone who asks me about agates. It is so much fun to see their eyes light up when I do!
When I see kids rock hunting I discreetly drop a polished one near them and if they miss it, point it out to them. They grab it and run to their parents just giddy! I also hide them in linen bags on drift wood for people to find. I love when they share they found it!
I give them as gifts! The big heart up above went to our dearest friend Coni’s daughter the amazing Lia. She collects heart stones because she and her momma have the biggest hearts ever! Coni sent me a video of her thanking me that melted even my cold and callous shriveled heart!
Our dear friend Sarah got one when she told me she was dealing with huge health issues. I am no doctor, but I can send love in a rock!
I have come to believe the ocean knows when you are a giver! For every agate I have gifted, the ocean has repaid me 5 fold! So share what you find! You can help make magic with a bit of kindness!
OK! there it is! Tony’s agate hunting tips! Good luck! Be careful! Have fun! And share what you find!
Anyone who has followed my adventures on two wheels over the years has seen photos of me looking like a drowned rat who can ride a bike.
When you take up cycling in the Pacific Northwest, and then move to the Oregon Coast, it is inevitable that you will get rained on. I have excellent rain gear, and can handle everything mother nature can throw at me! In the last 15 years, I can remember at least two 100 mile century rides, multiple 60 mile rides, and innumerable bicycle commutes to or from work where the rain made the ride challenging.
Back when I would train for big rides like the one day Seattle to Portland, the RAMROD,
Or some other challenging ride I was training for, I would saddle up for any ride I paid for. I remember a charity ride for the families of the Oso mudslide that rained all the way from my house and back again. There was over an inch of rain that day and I rode over 60 miles…. My rule used to be, “If I paid money for the ride, I was for sure gonna pedal it!’
I tell you all this cuz this morning I woke up in a hotel room in the The Dalles Oregon, all signed up for a 60 mile ride that started a bit south of there. It took me almost 5 hours to get there yesterday dealing with the rush hour traffic through Portland.
Now the weather app had told me rain, big rain up to a half inch was likely.
However, quite often the app will say that, but then when you wake up, the weather has shifted a bit, and you have 12 – 24 hours rain free. Given this, I decided to take a chance and head over anyway. If it was dry, I was going to saddle up! I was not going to let the weather make my decision for me.
Sadly, I woke up and the rain was already falling! Then I checked the iPad and the app said more rain was a comin…. Damn.
The hard core cyclist in me said, “What the hell! Go for it! You’ve done it before!” And I did consider it.
But the rest of me was asking “Why da hell do wanna do this? Long rides in the rain aint fun!”
So as I sat there looking outside, sipping coffee and eating breakfast, there was an internal struggle. What should I do!
Would I be a wuss to not ride? I have no bigger rides planned this year, so why suffer? Will I be mad at myself for not riding? Do I really want to saddle up right now? The conversation internally went on for a while.
In the end, I decided “60 miles on a bike in the rain does NOT sound fun!” So I pulled the plug and decided to go home…. I was seriously worried I’d be mad at myself for doing so, but as I sit here typing, I have no remorse at all!
So I loaded up my gear, checked out and was soon eastbound on I 84 along the Columbiia Gorge in Oregon.
I won’t lie, I am an opportunist when I have the chance! The Columbia Gorge in Oregon is known for its waterfalls! After being stuck in traffic Friday night, I stopped at Multnomah Falls, the most famous waterfall in the gorge area to use the restroom! I also stopped and enjoyed the view as well!
So now I decided to drive home. As you go along I 84, you are given the option of detouring onto SR 30. The historic route that predated the interstates. It’s a bit slower, ok a lot slower, but it is so much more scenic. I’ve never had the opportunity to take this route, well never till today.
I was heading home much earlier than planned, so I took the opportunity to dive off the interstate, it wasn’t long till I came to Horsetail Falls. Right on the side of the road and begging me to stop.
Soon after I went past Multnomah falls again, and ended up stopping at Wahkeenna falls! I need to come back here with hiking boots!
After this I was back on the interstate going home.
Instead of 60 cycling miles, I had zero. However, I found two amazing waterfalls I’ve never seen. before To be completely honest, I am not proud of myself for not riding the ride today, but dammit all, maybe I am finally smart enough to come in out of the rain?
I may not have ridden the miles, but since I made the choice to explore the world, it was NOT a bad day at all! I need to learn more about and spend more time at the Columbia Grorge…
When the weather starts getting hot, it’s cooler at the coast. The kids are out of school. There is a much better chance of being able to walk the beach and not get rained on. All 3 of these plus others are excellent reasons for summer visits.
I am lucky enough to live at the Oregon coast and have now for nigh on 6 years. I get to experience the ocean in all seasons. It wasn’t long after I lived here, that I figured out I am a huge fan of the stormy months here! I may even like Fall and Winter more than summer, at least when it comes to watching the ocean.
However, I will guarantee you there are days you WILL get rained on….
Even though I live here, I was reminded these last few weeks about the power of the ocean, and the results from the wind and waves even surprised me. This behemoth, for example, was uncovered from the sand a couple weeks ago, and the waves keep moving it around.
From Christmas week until now the Pacific Ocean has been flat showing off. We had the King tides (highest tides of the year, they occur in November. December and January each year). As you can see, these tides can move around a LOT of debris.
The tides succeeded in picking up logs like you see here as it came in. Then when the tide went out, combined with high water in the river that feeds this bay from heavy rains, the logs were sucked out to the ocean. The strong winds we were having, along with the waves, helped redistribute the driftwood further north.
People were having a hard time using these stairs at the Inn at Spanish Head, a mile north, after this event. (refer back to this photo later in this post!)
Last week, though, it got even MORE fun….
Not only were we getting an almost king tide on Wednesday, it was combined with Gale force winds and high surf (25-30 ft waves) warning. I was so damn excited!!
First a word of caution…
The ocean is amazing to behold. In the summer you can walk it at high tide or low, without any real worries (though you should still keep an eye on the waves.). In the winter, with stormy angry seas.
Things are different. It’s best to avoid walking on the beach at high tide, especially during a king tide day. There is just no telling how far up the beach the water will go.
A good plan is to just sit and watch the waves for 10 minutes and see what is going on. Your beach plans may change to this.
Even at low tide be careful! Ocean loves to sucker you in. No lie, the ocean is alive. If you respect it, then all is good. If you don’t, it will make you pay! Early in my coast kid life here I walked many miles with rubber boots full of water cuz I didn’t know what I didn’t know.
At one moment the water will be waaaaaayyyyyy out there
Then, no exaggeration, seconds later it is right there in your face!
Or it seems ok to walk to the behemoth tree shown earlier, and you see this!
I’ve learned it’s best to be up high looking at the beach when the excitement hits! Last week, I was out taking photos when someone took one of me! I found it on the local Facebook page.
That white stuff is sea foam, more in a bit about that!
This was the video I was taking when someone took that photo. Just in case someone thinks I am exaggerating the danger of the waves in the winter.
This video shows:
1. Just how easy the waves toss around HUGE logs. 2. How far the waves can come up (I’ve seen it hit the top of the stairs 3. That there would be nowhere to run.
If you aren’t sure of a safe place, as a local. We are happy to help!
Wanna see some of what these waves did?
Well this huge tree was only on these rocks for a day or so, I have no idea where it went
A year ago, this big ole stump got wedged into these rocks.
It was not moving, and we had some pretty big waves after it got stuck there. Welp, it aint stuck there no more!
Getting on to the beach is more interesting now as well after the storm.
I’m thinking if its still they come spring, some city workers and their trusty chain saws will be working on it.
My favorite new piece of drift word is this huge stump, which ends up a little further down the beach each time I show up. I am really not sure why this one goes south when most of the other logs seem to be northbound.
OH!!! Remember the hotel with the blocked stairs? One week after the photo above was taken, it now looks like this.
But this time I know where all the wood went! It blocking the beach about 100 yards north. I had to climb the rocks yesterday for my beach walk.
And again you see the sea foam. This happens with huge waves churn the water and froth up any organic material, like plankton and plant bits frothing it up. It was truly a sight this week!
I heard reports of it blowing across the road on Hwy 101 at places! I get a kick out of watching it when I am walking. Others are NOT fans.
So in short, the winter months can be cold, wet and windy. You do need the right clothes to be able to enjoy it (most days I still wear shorts though). However, if you hear on the news of a big storm coming, and you get get to the coast, do it! I recommend spending extra for a hotel right at the beach so you can watch from your room.
Bring your favorite snacks, coffee, tea, beer or wine (or all of the above) and treat yourself to one helluva great show! You won’t regret it!
Ok, first off for those who know the calendar, I know TECHNICALLY it aint winter yet. We still have a few weeks. I use the Tony Calendar, though. When March 1st hits, spring has sprung! Memorial Day tis summer. Labor Day starts Autumn, and, unless it snows before hand, December 1 starts winter!
I know many people who love the great outdoors when it’s warm and sunny, but come winter time, it’s time start a fire, get a warm blankie and enjoy the great indoors. Won’t lie, there are many days I do the same!
However, I still like getting outside. When I was a hiker/wannabe mountain climber, I used to LOVE winter hiking. Fewer people, no bugs, quite often I’d get high enough to get into the snow. Many times I’d have the whole trail to myself and never see another soul. Being the winter though, I needed the right gear, extra emergency gear in the back pack, and an eye on the weather to make sure I wasn’t being stupid!
When I moved to cycling, and bike commuting I still rode in the winter. Shorter days meant I needed good tail lights and head lights to be able to see and be seen. Clothing again was important (luckily some of the hiking gear worked great for bikes!)
Again I had to watch the weather! Rain was a given, you can’t be a Seattle winter bike commuter if you were afraid of rain! Ice or snow though…. That was a deal killer. I hit one patch of black ice in the years I bike commuted, and that was an enough! If the over night temps were 30 or below, I drove!
Moving down to the coast, it’s a bit different. Winter brings big waves
So when determining the outside activities it’s a matter of looking at the weather app, tide table, and quite frankly, looking out the window to see what the world is doing!
This weekend called for HEAVY rain, potential flooding and gale force winds at times. However, after 10 AM yesterday, there was a window of calm and dry weather! Plus it was Saturday and I had the day off! Saddle up!
I took the Fat tire bike down to Depoe Bay and back. I thought about a beach walk, but it was coming up on to high tide and the waves were pounding. There was even a beach hazard warning issued. A 20 mile ride on roads and trails was a MUCH better option! When I got to Depoe Bay and looked across at the sea wall, I knew I chose right!
I got in 21 miles, it was the perfect winter day for a ride, and someone found and posted a packet of agates I left at an overlook. (I think it fun to fined a treasure when you are at the beach!)
Sunday dawned differently. Wind was a blowing and the rain was steady. Rained all night. The weather app kept saying it was going to stop for a few hours, but the stopping time was pushed back time and again. Currently it’s 750 PM and it sure hasn’t stopped yet!
Back to my hiking years. Most people as I said, hike in the summer. They will go to a waterfall and enjoy it, but in the summer, after the snow has melted and the rains have stopped, it’s still pretty, but it’s not at its most wondrous! Case in point, this summer I was riding a route that takes me up in the hills, and past the Trail Head for Drift Creek falls.
I stopped there to have a snack at the picnic table and utilize the facilities. A lady had just finished the hike and she was waiting for someone to catch up. She mentioned, “It was a pretty hike, but wow the falls were boring, not much to see at all.”
I just smiled a might, and explained that this was August and we hadn’t seen much rain at all since May or June. This was the time of year Drift Creek was just a trickle. So the falls really wouldn’t be much to speak of. I told her, “Come back in November or December and bring rain gear THEN talk to me!” And with that I pedaled on down the road.
Well I thought of that this weekend when the flood warnings. I knew it would be putting on a show, and I sure has hell have good raingear!
And I still have my water proof, fully broken in hiking boots!
So after the morning chores, I gave Michelle a kiss (she is smart enough NOT to go out in the rain) and headed off.
In the summer time you can not find a parking spot there, today there were only 3 cars. As I hiked along though, I could see the water was running high, fast and brown…
I was getting excited to see the falls, but not so much I missed the hike around me.
Finally though I got to the suspension bridge over the falls!
In my humble opinion they did NOT disappoint! But you tell me.
It was a very wet hike and I enjoyed every minute of it! Try this yourself. If you have a favorite waterfall go in the middle of summer and then during a heavy rain event… Let me know what you think!
The moral here, enjoy life no matter what time of year, you just never know what you will see!
One last safety feature. This applies anytime but I think even more so in the winter. Make sure someone knows where you are going and when you plan to get back. The more remote the location, the more important this is. I let Michelle know I thought I’d be back by 4. When I got to the car, I was pretty sure I had been overly optimistic.
She knows me well enough that that she wouldn’t panic at all if I was a little late, but I didn’t want even a bit of worry to hit. From the bike rides I knew the one place on the route there was cell service. So I stopped there and texted to let her know I was safe, heading home and might be late. (I was by about 15 minutes).
So in the middle of winter, gale warnings, flood warnings, possible armageddon even, I had two great days outside!
Hi ya’ll, I know it’s been a while. 2023 has been an interesting year. All day long at work I am on a computer and typing my fingers to the bone, so it’s rare I want to type more after work. True fact, if you don’t wanna type, it’s hard to do a blog post. Tonight though, I got the urge!
Anyone who has followed this blog for any length of time knows I love being outside. Hiking, beach walking and most of all, cycling. breathing the fresh air and experiencing nature keeps me alive.
No matter where I am though, I LOVE taking photos. Before I go farther though, a disclaimers. Folks, even though people tell me I am (and I laugh) I am NOT a photographer. Photographers understand F-stops, exposures, and have multiple lenses and filters. They have light meters and tripods. they know their stuff.
I am just a bike riding, beach walking, nature loving guy with a phone and his trusty point and shoot camera in his pocket.
When I head outside I want to make sure I have binoculars, my phone and this camera with me, you just never know what you will see!
I will freely admit folks, I am lucky. Living on the Oregon Coast it is HARD to take a bad photo. In the last few weeks I’ve taken these
One of these was from my office, some from a bike ride or two, and some from a beach walk. All of them reflect what you can see here at the coast.
Like I said before, I am not a photographer, and I giggle whenever someone calls me one. Given that, I do have some tips I adhere to when I take photos.
The first is easy. If you think it’s cool, snap a photo! If you like it, chances are others will to! Even if they aren’t partial to the subject matter, like mushrooms
They might still appreciate the photo.
Number 2, share that sucker! If you like the photo, put it out there. Old schoolers like me still use Facebook. There is also Instagram. I have heard legend of this thing call Tik Tok, but that is greek to me! Whatever you use, throw your favorites out there. You will be amazed how many people like the stuff you take.
Third, STOP!!! Walking, running, driving or cycling. If you see something that is worth a photo, for the luva gawd stop and take it!
Whatever it is you see, there is no guarantee you will see it again.
Think about it, how long does it take to stop and take a photo or two? You may get home and look at it and say, “MEH!” and delete it. OR you could look at it and “Holy cow!”
Either way, it took 30 seconds of your life to stop the bike, pause your walk or even pull over the car and bust out the camera! More often than not, it well worth it!
Fourth, just look around! You never know what you will see! There could be a cool tree, a reflection, or hell a squirrel in the back yard.
If you stop and look, there is no telling what photos you might take.
Finally, and this seems counter intuitive, but it’s a fact. Do not be an afraid to NOT take a photo! I have seen whales, seals, harbor porpoises, sun sets, crashing waves and amazing views that I did not even try to capture with the phone or camera. I just looked, enjoyed, and thought to myself, “DAMN, I am so lucky to see this!” It is perfectly ok to enjoy life in general without busting out a camera or phone.
Sometimes the memory of what you saw is better than any photo you can take.
So in short, enjoy life. Take and share photos if you want, who cares if you aint a photographer. Enjoy life, look around, just stop and snap away. You will never be sorry if you take the photo, but you might regret not doing so!
And honestly, the more I take, the petter I have done. I’ve taken a few lately where I was truly surprised at how well I did.
Thanks for stopping by, and I hope you will keep taking and sharing the photos you take of the world around you! If no one else will look at em, let me know! I will be happy to do so!
Doesn’t it seem like anytime you look at the news, not politics, not the economy, not international affairs (all of which are enough to make me NOT watch the news.) I mean the news about the weather and the environment. Reading about most of the world, it’s dismal at best.
In Florida they talk about hot tub temps in the ocean and the die off of sea creatures because of it. Temperatures are soaring and people are, or will soon, run out of water world wide. Whole forests have turned brown cuz of drought, insects, heat or all three. And shoot, Canada is essentially on fire. This year the east coast was covered in smoke. Then there are freak floods, too much water in the wrong place and all at once!
It is truly enough to make a person worry.
Somehow, though, I have ended up in a spot that, though not immune to the quickly changing climate, seems to have a way to not show the effects as much.
I don’t know if its the cold ocean, the prevailing winds, or hell, just coast kid magic, but these last weeks have shown me how lucky I am to be in our little corner of the world here at the Oregon Coast.
First off, it’s the clean air!
The steady wind helps keep the air clear and easy to breathe. The skies are blue and the air healthy. Two weeks ago we went to Bend Oregon for a concert. The smoke was so bad, we had to hide in the hotel room with the A/C on. I felt like I could chew and swallow what I was breathing. Some people get this all summer. Lucky for us, smokey air is a rarity.
Then there are the forests. Just today I was riding up in the trees of the coast range.
Green and healthy. I could smell the trees as I pedaled along. I won’t lie, we of course have some dead trees, but not whole swaths of forests. The trees here help take in the carbon dioxide and breathe out pure oxygen. On the hills I pedaled today, I needed the extra oxygen for sure!
Then there is the life in our waters!
Whales
Birds
Starfish
Shoot, just the tide pools in general
And insects
Biggest bee I’ve EVER seen!
Shoot, for the first time ever, even a lizard!
Sitting in my back yard there are squirrels, chipmunks, deer, a myriad of birds from humming birds to osprey, and bats. Not to mention Pete the possum and one annoying raccoon family. A few weeks ago two coyotes walked up the road. Our biodiversity is astounding to me.
I am not trying to brag. I really am not. I was just sitting here this evening and looking at some photos from the last few months, and it got me thinking.
Is the Oregon Coast one of the last healthy places to live?
We aint perfect, there is one smelly dead sea lion on the beach nearby, a number of birds washing up on the shore after dying, and we are in a bit of a drought ourselves. Shoot, 3 years ago, this was my neighborhood just a few hours before we had to bug out due to a fire!
I guess the message I am trying to impart is that I am realizing just how lucky we and my neighbors are. I have always loved living here, rain or shine, as you can tell.
But seeing what the rest of the world is dealing with, and how much worse it seems to be getting every year, I am realizing that somehow the magic of the Oregon coast is keeping the ugliness at bay, at least for now.
Which gives me just one more reason to get out and experience it as much as I can. Summer is ending, and it you can feel fall in the air. But I am going to get outside, see all I can, and share it with the world.
I do worry about the world we will be leaving to my grandkidlet and grandniece. So hopefully they will get to see the photos of the magical place we lived in and how beautiful it was…
I have a wife who not only loves me, but can put up with the goof ball I am (she has been called a saint by many of my friends and co-workers).
I am also lucky to be healthy enough at (gasp!) 58 years old to walk and cycle damn near anywhere I want to go. I know there are many, even younger than I am, who can’t do this, so I never take it for granted.
Finally, I am lucky that I live at the Oregon Coast.
We were fortunate enough to move here in 2018, and I’ve never regretted it for second. This last week is a classic example as to why!
Last Saturday, the skies and waters were as blue as blue could be! I saddled up the road bike and started pedaling south along 101. Over the last 5.5 years, I have logged thousands (no exaggeration) of bike miles between Lincoln City and Newport Oregon. I am never bored, and never tire of seeing the same things. I have learned no two rides are ever the same.
This day, I rode to Devils Punchbowl. It’s an excellent bicycle destination, or in my case the turn around point. How many people have a huge collapsed sea cave in their ‘back yard?’
Sunday was a rare weekend day. During the work week I am up and at my desk between 545 and 6 AM. I HATE working late, but I have no issues working early. However, on the weekends, I like to sleep until I wake up. But on this last Sunday, there was a negative tide at 8 AM. I LOVE LOW TIDES!! I set an alarm and was up at 6 AM! I heading to my favorite tide pool spots by 7 AM. It did not disappoint.
Even more fun, I found some cool tidepools conducive to GoPro videos and stills! The stars aligned. 1) I was able to get to the tide pools, 2) the waters weren’t to murky, 3) I remembered to BRING the GoPro, and, most importantly, 4) I remembered to charge the sucker!
One thing you learn when you live here, no matter what you are doing, beach walking, cycling, agate hunting, tide pooling or even just driving, no matter what, always make sure to look up from time to time!
This osprey was above me looking for lunch as I was checking out the starfish!
Later that day, Michelle and I ran some errands and treated ourselves to lunch and beer at Rogue Ales in Newport. HIGHLY recommend it!
It was honestly a rough work week, but the after hours made up for it. There were beach walks, we had dinner with two of our favorite neighbors, and I found out someone found one of the package of polished agates I like to leave on the beach.
I truly enjoy finding them, and then tumbling them to shiny treasures. However, I have so many, it makes no sense to keep them all. Others aren’t as lucky as I am to live here or have had the chance to develop the ‘Agate Eye’ when they visit. So I leave these on drift wood logs or ask parents if I can give them to kids who are looking for treasure.
Last week, during the low tide, I ran into a family with a mom and her adult kids. She had driven all the wa up from California for the low tide, hoping to get to this part of the beach.
Some years in the summer there is an easy sand path to get there. This year there was not. I am able to get there by walking across a ledge of rocks, but she wasn’t able to navigate it. I heard her saying how bummed she was (some of the kids made it over) and that she had been looking forward to agate hunting there.
Welp, I walked up to them and explained that the tides decide how much sand there is, and this year there wasn’t a path. I am not sure her kids believed there ever really was one until I confirmed it has happened. Its just a rarity as opposed to the norm. She had been lucky last year to be hear when the path developed.
However, I had a few of the agate packets with me. After hearing she was hoping to hunt for them, I told her, “Well, you couldn’t get to the hidden beach, but there is a consolation prize for trying!” and I handed her a packet. She almost cried! I just smiled and and told them all to enjoy the coast, as I moseyed on my way! I figure everyone deserves a bit of beach magic!
Yesterday, Saturday, was a beautiful day once more! It was time to saddle up, this time heading for the Yaquina Head Lighthouse! 44 mile round trip.
The seals were loving the sun as well.
Sadly, sometime during my ride south, the winds out of the north picked up! It was a 22 mile slog, sometimes going 8 – 9 miles an hour to get home… TOTALLY worth it!!
I am lucky because everything I talked about above is in my ‘back yard’, all within a short drive, walk or bike ride from my back door.
However, I have an incredible back yard at my house.
I have a back deck that backs up to a green belt forest. This week the nature that has visited has just kept me fascinated. The video above is a hairy woodpecker (we also get downy woodpeckers, smaller, but just as amazing).
Here is junior hairy trying to figure out how to bang his head on a tree.
We also have a northern flicker who is devouring my suet! (but who can resist him?) I just ordered a case of suet from Amazon so I won’t run out.
There have also been stellar blue jays, our favorite chipmunk, chickadees who are raising a family in our birdhouse, juncos (with babies in tow), starlings (an invasive species I shoot my slingshot at (and miss), raccoons, and this son of gun that keeps eating my birdseed!
In short, I like to think of our back yard as a nature sanctuary, all (but starlings) are welcome. After a long day at work, there is nothing more relaxing than an evening reading a book with a glass of wine and the propane fire pit on the deck. (though as you can see by my photo above, even in June, a down coat, warm shoes and a stocking cap may be required)
I am a lucky man, and I know it. Weeks like this are amazing, and for me here at the Oregon coast, they happen quite often! I will always appreciate them!
Sooner or later all trips, good or bad, come to an end. This was one of, if not the best vacations ever, and I was sad to to it end.
I’ve got no idea what it is, but this is the last photo I took the evening before we left.
What we didn’t know was the adventure was not over yet.
First off, the Parisians who were kind enough not to riot (sorry protest) while we were there, had plans to restart the demonstrations the day we left. Luckily, we had a 7 AM flight out of Paris, which meant we were being picked up at 430 AM. In general I have found folks who tend to do mischief don’t like to wake up early.
(We learned later that Kaye’s driver couldn’t get through to her, she had to get a uber and JUST made it to her flight. She had a later departure than we did.)
However, what we didn’t figure on was the the local police would want to block roads early on in preparation for these ne’er do wells. Sure as heck, our driver had to do some creative bobbing and weaving to get out of town, but soon we were on the way. I had done some Googling the night before, and I was confident we needed to be in Terminal E2.
Folks, I know SEA-TAC airport and the Spokane airport like the back of my hand. I can get you anywhere, and in SEA-TAC I know all the short cuts. Charles de Gaulle Airport, I am useless!
In the back of my mind was a story when I last flew International. This was back in college and I was visiting my folks in England. I was in Heathrow ready to fly home, and I saw my flight on the board. I’d never really flown on my own before. So I kept and eye on the TV figuring it would say something like, “Tony time to get on the plane.”
Suddenly my flight disappeared from the board….
I went up to the PAN-AM desk and asked about my flight disappearing. She looked at me like “You stupid Yank?” but said, “You are on that flight and you are HERE????” She pointed and said “RUN!!!”
I was off like a shot, and much younger and faster than now! I am pretty sure she called ahead, and there was no real TSA then. I was the last one on the 747…
Whenever I fly, I think about that, so I am never really relaxed until I am on the plane. We also get to airports VERY early just in case.
So there we were at E2 plenty early, and we get checked in at the Kiosk, and go to the Delta line. It wasn’t opened yet, but we were expecting that. This was 5 AM and they weren’t open. 530, same. 545, nope there was movement but not open, 6 AM and still not open, Michelle and I were both fit to be tied.
Michelle finally got some one’s attention who walked over and looked at our stuff and said, “You are in wrong place you need F2.” (Her tone was more on the lines of “You American pig-dogs, go away!”) She was the only rude person we ran into the whole time in Europe. She then vaguely waved in a direction.
Please note all times are guesses from here on…
We started off but there was not one stinking sign that said Terminal F (6:04). We turned back with a plan in my head to grab her by the ear and make her show us, when I found a security guard. We told him we were lost and needed F2.
Turns out F2 is across the highway… Suck ass I was picturing bus or train and we were screwed.
Nope, there was a paved path under the freeway. We were off! (6:06)
On the rough sidewalk Michelle in her Doc Martins was faster than I was rolling the two bags, she led us across, and up to the F2 terminal. I found the first person I could, who told me “You need number 5!” and pointed We were at #1. Michelle said “GO!”
Friends, that 20 something from Heathrow was back! On the smooth terminal I was the wind with the bags and was able to keep up with her! We made it to 5, and there as no line! Bags were on the belt and we headed for security! (6:10)
NO LINE!!!
She got through no problem. I, on the other hand….
At TSA, you can keep lap tops in the bag, NOT so in Europe. I had to take them out and send them back through. Then there was the cough syrup. I had it out for them to check. It had to wait for the iPads to come back through (tick tick tick).
OK iPads fine, “Now we have to test the syrup…” “You can just toss it!” I said. “No now it needs to be tested sir!” First they did the explosive test. Clear. Then it had to go into a machine (tick tick tick) Then they had to discuss….
They handed it to me and said “Have a good flight.” I looked at the watch, it was 620… HELL YEAH we made it. We had just enough time to get a bottle of water before we boarded. I was planning to get coffee on the plane (we had not had breakfast or coffee yet…)
We got on and ready to leave. Then, “This is your captain, I am sorry ladies and gentleman, but the boiler is out on this plane. Instead of delaying you, we decided to take off without it. I am sorry to inform you that this means there will be no coffee….” Luckily it was only an hour flight Amsterdam, where we made the connection to Portland.
We land, and I get coffee and some food, and life is better. Going through the Passport check was easy as pie, and we soon getting ready to board. Michelle shows her boarding pass and goes right through. I show mine and, “Sir will you kindly step over here please….”
I was pulled aside and checked over for explosives. Hands, waist, feet… Was it that I looked shifty?
Or did that security guard from Italy put me on a watch list???
Well, as you must of guessed since I made it home, I passed the test. I was able to board and get to our seats!
The travel gods took pity on us after all that, we ended up with exit row seats! Leg room to spare! I could stretch as far as I could and not touch the seat ahead of me!
From there all went well. We landed ahead of schedule. no issues with immigration and traffic getting home was easy. After a VERY long day we were home.
This will be a trip I will always remember. Michelle and Kaye made it possible. I just hope I do get invited on the next adventure!
Oregon Coast Cyclist 