Dol Ashram is located at Lamgada block of Almora district in the state of Uttarakhand of India. We visited this Ashram during our stay at Nathuakhan village. The way from village to Ashram is very scenic. The road is smooth and comfortable. Greenery on both the sides of the road made the journey very pleasant and enjoyable. Far away the Chain of mountains wrapped in mist and clouds floating over the peaks walked with us. On the way we stopped at Khairafatak to have a cup of tea. The view of valley, the houses nestled amidst the greenery, the clouds swirling and swimming down and far were enchanting.
As we neared the ashram we left the main pakka road and drove through forest. This small passage as if sets the mood to imbibe the peace and positive energy of the Ashram.
Dol Ashram is the popular name of the place. Its actual name is Shree Kalyanika Himalaya Devsthanam. Dol Ashram was established in 1991 by Baba Kalyan Das ji. It is said that during his pilgrimage to Kailash Mansarovar Ma Bhagawati gave Darshan to Baba ji and inspired him to build an ashram in Himalayas. Later on, Baba built this Ashram midst lush green forests of Almora district.
The speciality of Dol Ashram is that it houses the biggest and the heaviest Shriyantra of the world. In the centre of big circular hall sits the Shriyantra made of Ashta Dhatu. The Shriyantra weighs about 159 Quintol. Making of Shriyantra started in 2012 and was finished in 2018. From 18 April to 29 April 2018 Shriyantra was consecrated by performing many sacred rites and rituals. The hall can accommodate about 500 people at a time for meditation. The positive energy of the place is energising. You sit their quietly, eyes closed and let the energy of the place flow within you, the effect is simply indescribable. The peace which you feel, the quiet which slowly descends within could only be felt. Its almost impossible to translate it into words.
Besides the hall of Shriyantra all around there are idols and small temples of many Hindu deities. There is a school up to 12th standard in the premises. In the curriculum emphasis is laid on study of Sanskrit language and various scriptures but students are also taught subjects like science, maths and computers. It’s a residential school.
Fooding, lodging and emergency medical facilities for the visitors and devotees are also available there. There is a future plan of building a full fledged hospital too.
At Dol Ashram one can learn vedic methodology that aims at preparing one to lead a healthy and balanced life.
There is a big library in the premises with numerous books on yoga, meditation, health, Ayurveda and spirituality.
Dol ashram aims at facilitating one to embark upon a spiritual journey based on the principle of Vedanta and yoga. During your stay there you need to follow the Ashram routine.
The yoga and meditation courses offered here are based on the vision of Swamy Sivananda and teaching programmes are formulated by his disciple Swami Vishnudevananda.
The Ashram is a serene spiritual retreat where visitors can experience profound peace and tranquility, cleansing of soul kind of experience.
Leh Palace as the name itself indicates is situated in the town of Leh of Union territory of Ladhakh. Leh palace is also known as Lhachen Palkhar. It is designed in line of Potala Palace Lhasa, Tibet. Construction of Leh Palace began in 16th century and it was completed in 17th century. It was built by king Sengge Namgyal. The palace has nine storeys but we could climb up to eighth storey only. Steps leading to ninth Storey were closed as it needed repairs and renovation. But even from the eighth storey the panoramic view of the entire town as well as Stok Kangri and Ladhak mountain range was breath taking. Winds swept the open rooftop. Sun kissed the far-off mountain peaks and the peaks scattered the sparkling light in the valley. The valley smiled and I stood there mesmerized by beautiful tapestry woven by mingling all the elements of nature. Winds wrapped me in their sweet embrace, and I let myself be merged in the moment.
This palace is more like a fortress than a palace. It was built from a defence strategy in mind, be it location or construction. The thick walls, low ceiling, narrow pavilion all reflect that purpose.
Leh palace is not only an architectural relic it also tells us about rich heritage. The palace houses ancient paintings; thangka scrolls and many other ages old relics.
The palace also houses a temple.
As I said earlier, it is more like a fortress hence lacks the intricate carvings, delicate ornate designs but the wooden balconies, wide-open wind-swept terraces providing a beautiful views of town below, peaks far away and neighbouring rugged mountains provide it with altogether different kind of charm. Semi dark low ceiling halls and passages engulf you with warm intimacy.
Entrance of the palace
wooden balcony and the view
The open terrace at one of the floor
Neighbouring mountains and old monastery on nearby hill
The sun kissed peaks and the valley bathed in golden light
We visited Dhokney waterfall while returning from Mukteshawar to our homestay at Nathuakhan.
Dhokney waterfall is comparatively lesser-known beautiful fall tucked midst serene and pristine landscape. Lesser known doesn’t mean deserted. People do visit in a good number but it is not crowded.
Dhokney waterfall is near Suyalbari on national highway 109. This highway connects Almora and Nainital. The fall is about 18 Km. from Almora and about 48 Km from Nainital.
When we left the highway and took a turn for the road leading towards Waterfall, the road was well maintained, cemented and smooth, however after some distance it was rugged but still motorable. Our vehicle brought us up to the spot from where the down hill path to waterfall started. Waterfall is about 2Km downhill from the road. The path is unpaved. Comfortable shoes is required to make the walk easier.
The roars of cascading water and shouts of the boys enjoying a swim in the pool could be heard from a distance. Yes, the walking down was a bit ardous but I took my time by stopping in the mid, enjoying the beauty of the lush green pine forest all around. It was a warm, sunny day of the month of July. The clear blue sky up above with white clouds floating around set a beautiful contrast to green all around.
There was a big pool just below the waterfall. People were swimming and taking bath in that. Laughter and mirth of the people enjoying the cool refreshing water filled the valley with joyous feel. White, foamy waters gurgling down was refreshing. Somehow the sound of nature and that of man were in perfect harmony. Streams of water were running over the stones and pebbles. We sat down on rocks with feet dipped in cool water. Collected some colourful pebbles with different designs on them.
The time we visited there some maintenance and construction work was going on but it didn’t impose any kind of hindrance.
After spending sometime there we climbed up, had lunch and tea in the stalls there and then headed back to homestay.
Recently we visited Nathuakhan village in Ramgarh block of Nainital district. The village is situated at height of about 1940 meters. The place offered alluring views of Himalayan range. We stayed in the village for three days at Ma Kamla Homestay, run by Mr. Sunil Arya. During our stay we enjoyed a feel of rustic life while living in comforts of modern amenities that we are so accustomed to. Yes, the rooms with attached bath were neat, clean, well equipped with all the necessary furniture. The verandah running on two sides of the rooms offered a wonderful view of mountains and hills covered with lush green trees, dotted with homes having slanting roofs.
We were there in the beginning of July. It was not very cold but early mornings came with that nip in the air which makes you feel all ready to welcome a new day. Sitting on the verandah with a hot cup of tea between palms, watching the smoke rising from the chimney of a faraway home, looking at the sky opening its doors to playful naughty fluffy clouds, soaking in the greenery all around and absorbing the melodious chirping of birds was a perfect potion to relax the taut nerves.
As the sunrays stepped out of doors and touched the mountain heads with their dainty fingers, the mountains started glowing with inexplicable pleasure. Basking in the pleasure of golden touch of rays the greens of hills sparkled. Something very divine unfolded before our eyes. The heart filled with calm and peace. And then slowly the life started stirring in the village. A cow mooed somewhere. Someone’s call to someone at a distance. Sound of cleaning and brooming came from downstairs. Village kids going to Naula, the natural water source to bring drinking water. And then later on they walked to their schools. These mountain kids walk miles to reach their schools still they never look tired.
During afternoons after finishing the domestic chores women folk worked in their fields. It was a nice experience to see them working, laughing together. I too sat nearby and talked to them about trees, flowers and life in general. Though by July the trees are not laden with plums, apricots and peaches yet we were lucky to taste a few fresh ones directly plucked from the trees.
By evening children came back from schools. We played with them, talked to them. Children of the village were really very well behaved. Even when they met us on the way they touched our feet and paid their regard. At a place overgrown grass covered the narrow public path, I saw kids cleaning it and mothers encouraging their wards to do the work collectively. Apparently, these might appear to be small things but such upbringing, nurturing of values goes a long way to shape up a worthy individual.
One afternoon we took a walk on the winding road around the village. This one was a motorable road with valley on one side and hills on other. Sitting on roadside settee enjoying the panoramic view of valley and mountain range across it was relaxing indeed. Once in a while children returning from schools passed us and we exchanged tit bits while tall stately trees standing high on hills swayed gently as if joining us in the conversation.
On another evening Sunil took us to the Naula. Here water percolates through rocks and roots of trees and turns into a stream. The water is so sweet and therapeutic too. To reach there we walked on the narrow mud pathway lined on both the sides by green foliage and wild grass flowers. This stretch of walk took us through village too. Such experiences not only are refreshing but enriching too in many ways.
Another wonderful experience was the dinner time at Ma Kamla homestay. Sitting on mud plastered floor next to warm hearth while the lady of the home served hot chapatis prepared /cooked on the warmth of earthen furnace with local cuisine on the platter. It was heartwarming to sit together having food and exchanging the light hearted conversation. It made me nostalgic. Memories of my childhood days and the people of that time flooded my heart but with it was a kind of joy and peace too.
As we left the place I threw a glance towards the mountains, sky, clouds, trees, the village nestled in between and prayed for it to remain unchanged.
Early morning view from the verandah of homestay
village scene from homestay
And the night takes the village into its fold, a lull spreads and dreams waken up
On somedays the azure sky sparkles and opens up it’s arms for fluffy clouds to float and run
Inhaling peace while on a walk around the village.
These kids add an extra charm to nature’s splendour
very few of these typical mountain homes are there now but seem like anchor in rapidly moving wheel of change
The veranda of homestay where we enjoyed our morning tea
canvassing for Panchayat election was going on. It appeared to be all women stuff. We were lucky to get a chance to interact with them while they visited homestay for putting up the posters and convincing the voters.
While we were on a walk around the village, we met these kids returning from school with their mothers. one side walk up to school is about two kilometers. Talking to kids always fills heart with joy.
He is Atharva akka Gausu. He accompanied us on our evening walk along with his father, Sunil. When we reached a particular place Gausu called the dogs by their names and first they responded by barking from somewhere deep behind boundary walls and then came running up to road. Bagira, the black one was really giant sized for a dog but by nature all of them were very friendly.
Me and Gausu at Naula the natural water source. Above the structure stood tall trees and water was dripping down from their roots and rocks. The taste of water was divine, so pure and kind of sweet.
This too is view from homestay
Gausu and Ammu, all ready for school. This was kind of pick-up point for petis of apples near motorable road, just as we climbed out of village. We dropped the kids near their school on our way to Mukteshwar.
The best part of immersing yourself in nature is that you have to just sit at one place and the landscape go on unfolding its different moods, shades, It’s simpy magical.
These sisters came all the way from Nepal and were working as labourers carrying cenent and bricks to a construction site. We stole few moments to talk and later on met a number of times during our stay.
Mist gradually loosens its embrace around the tall trees and whispers to leaves awakening them to face a new day. The jungle seems to be reluctant to come out of the soft dreams. Sun rays try to find their way down caressing the vegetation with its magical golden touch. Bathed in a misty morning glaze the mysterious forest invite me to imagine the hidden world. The tall trees stand quiet yet nudging the leaves to waken up. The surreal, mysterious world of foggy forest casts a spell. And then slowly a melodious chirping is heard somewhere deep in the forest. It’s time to welcome new horizons, to walk on new path. The pathway looks so inviting.
And here are few lines by Lucy Montgomery about the fog clad forest—
Richard Bach is one of my favourite writers. Whie talking about deer he has said that deer can tell when a leaf falls silent in the forest and the reason Bach attributes to it is that the deer hears it breathing differently. When I watched various species of deer in different parts of forest in different times of the day, I could understand rather feel what Bach meant by that.
Soft, delicate and graceful deer is the most beautiful animal in the forest. Observing it you can easily feel how sensitive it is. yes, sensitive enough to notice the leaf breathing differently.
A deer walks out of foliage, stops for a second on the narrow path, listens carefully to the silent music of early morning forest and then walks slowly and gracefully disappearing into the misty, dreamy world. I could hear my heart tingling like temple bell.
A group of deer midst the brown grass bathed in the reds and oranges of setting sun look placidly at you and you are transported to another world. Sun slowly goes down; the water of ponds imbibes all the colours and the group slowly walks towards the dense forest saying goodbye to sun. And the moment pulsates within you forever.
the cutie fawn with mama deer, the antlers, marsh deer and so on…there are many precious moments-some like prayers, some like gentle music while others like poetry. Deer are beauty in its softest and most beautiful form.
When we walk towards Dasashvamesh Ghat from Gudaulia say some hundred steps before reaching the steps of Ghat a narrow lane divulges from the main road and this narrow lane too lead to another Ghat which lies adjacent to Dashvamesh Ghat. At the end of this lane, that is just before the lane leads to steps stands Man Mahal, popularly known as Man Mandir. This palace was built by Raja Man Singh in about 1600 A.D. An obse4vatory was built on the roof top of this palace by Maharaja Jai Singh 2 of Jaipur somewhere between 1686 and 1745. Those who are even a little bit interested in history and monuments of our country must be knowing that Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh is known for setting up masonry observatory at Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi, Mathura. He is also the founder of Jaipur city. These masonry observatories set up by him are popularly known as Jantar- Mantar, which is perhaps corrupted form of Yantra- Mantra. This name perhaps denotes to calculations by instruments and that is what these observatories do. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh himself was a great astronomer. So here we are talking about the observatory on the top of Man Mandir. The observatory has many yantras to calculate time, distance, movement and inclinations of stars and planets, to prepare lunar and solar calendars. Few of the Yantras there are—
Samrat Yantra – small and large.
Digamsa Yantra—
Chakra Yantra
Nadivalaya Yantra
Dakshinottara Bhitti Yantra.
Another wonderful attraction of this rooftop is wonderful view of ho;y Ganges. Even at the time when sun was at it’s Zenith, the breeze was cool there.
A major restoration work of this observatory by Maharaja Sawai Singh in 1912.
We were there at 2.45 P.M. and sun Dial was showing the exact time. It was thrilling to see and observe that. A little feeling of pride crept in my heart, what a great visionary were our ancestors and how knowledgeable.
Recently this Man Mahal has undergone a big change and has become a tourist attraction. Now Man Mahal host a 3D virtual experimental museum showcasing culture and heritage of Varanasi. The museum became operative since 2019. It was set up by National Council of Science Museum under the guidance of Union ministry of Culture. We need to purchase a ticket to enter the building—Rs. 25/ per person. For foreign nationals it is Rs.300/- per person.
As we enter the first hall, we find a big arc shaped screen on the wall and we can enjoy a short film on various aspects of Varanasi , the magnificent ghats, the cultural heritage, a part of history etc accompanied by commentary.
On walls of various rooms, halls and corners are big, life size paintings and photographs revealing the soul of Varanasi—a Sadhu on Ghat, a lane and an old lady walking, two old people busy in playing chess on a small platform in a narrow lane etc.
As I said earlier this museum takes you on a digital tour, so in one of the halls is this table top screen on which flash various icons stating, wall art of Varanasi, wooden toys and furniture art and so on. At a time there five- six icons and you touch the one in which you are interested and short film about it runs on the screen.
Similarly in another hall is another one with pictures of various literary personalities having connection with Varanasi . You touch one and pours down lot of information about the personality and their literary works.
In yet another hall are these vertical screens on the wall, small rectangular ones. Below these screens are wooden platforms with square hollows cut in it and nearby are placed wooden squares of same size with pictures of great personalities carved on these. You fit a square in a hollow and information regarding that personality appear on the screen.
This museum is informative, interactive with many aesthetically beautiful pictures interspersed.
Then there is this Pan Shop, Pani.e. beetle specially Maghai pan is one of the speciality of Varanasi. The pan wala looks almost real .
You can gather information about on various other topics and personalities, weaving industry of Varanasi, the famous silk weaving industry, the old map, the music personalities like Girija Devi, Bismillah Khan etc.
And there is yet another attraction, a film on Ganga avataran. i.e. mythological story of ganga coming to earth out of Brahma’s Kamnadal. The film starts from ancestors of King Bhagirath and ends with River Ganges cascading down from Shiva’s hair. The film is shown on the white walls of the hall and at the end when Giganting waves of Ganges leaps and runs from one wall to another leave one with a feeling of getting drenched in holy water. If you are in Varanasi, don’t miss out on this museum in Man Mahal at Dr, Rajendra Prasad ghat.
Amidst the stretch of ghats running along the holy river Ganges is Boondi Parkota Ghat. This Ghat was constructed by the king Suraj Bhan Singh Hada of Boondi. Above this ghat near Brahma ghat is this museum known as Kashi Dham. This is a unique museum. It imparts knowledge about various aspects of Indian culture, our civilization and Sanatan Dharma through paintings, murals, idols and a variety of artefacts. The museum is very beautifully and exhaustively planned. The ideas are executed very creatively.
After ascending the steps from ghat we took the right turn and hardly ten steps ahead was the gate of Kashi Dham museum. An ornate and beautifully carved door welcomed us. We stepped into the corridor. One the left side was the shrine of Laleshwar Mahadev and on right in the verandah was a reception desk. The temple of Laleshwar Mahadev is said to be almost four hundred years old. Black wooden pillers narrate stories of the times bygone. I think it must have been a residential property in olden times. In varanasi midst the maze of lanes we find many accommodations housing temples inside them. In its present Avatara the wall around circumambulatory path displays images of the twelve Jyotirlingas.
For going beyond this area and entering the halls of museum one had to take ticket at the rate of Rs. 25 per person. Come with me, I would give a short tour of the museum.
The temple , shrine of Laleshwar Mahadev.
Pushing the glass door as we stepped into the first hall, we found this magnificent Natraj idol. Don’t forget to pay attention to the dancing poses around it.
On another wall is this map of Bharat Kshetra. The ancient map with the names of the kingdoms. The boundaries of our land stretched far and wide.
A glimpse of Dances and festivals of India.
The Saptarishis, Devis, Saints.
solah sansakara, rites, rituals , phases of life as per Sanatan Dharma.
!2 jyotirlinga temples, the great spiritual personalities, devotees.
Some mythological anecdotes.
As you can see the Sun God and the lunar phases.
Mytho;ogical weapons, animals and representation of Grahas, nakshtras.
This view is of upper floor. The window gives an excellent view of river Ganga. On this floor certain rooms are available where people could stay but presently no arrangement of food was there.
Om namah Shivay. A closer look of Shivalinga.
I have tried to give you an overview. There are many more informative facts such as names of scriptures, Purans, Upnishads etc., details regarding evolution of our national flag and much more.
The wall art of varanasi could be seen on Ghats as well as the narrow lanes snaking around various neighbourhoods of the city. The images on the walls not only add colour and vibrancy to the old walls and structure but also spell out the essence of the city older than history itself. Though during our this visit we found most of the walls of ghats painted in pink, [ perhaps a cleanliness drive in the wake of visits of G-20 dignitaries from across the world.] yet we could capture few along the ghats and others in the street, What I post here is just a miniscule of what the entire city has to offer. These wall arts are the cultural repository of not only a city steeped in various art forms like dance, music but displays themes representing the diverse richness of our entire country. scenes from history, mythology to few conveying social messages all kinds of themes are the subject of these wall art.
These all-ladies band on the wall of Mehta ghat showcase some of the musical instruments which are not commonly seen now a days. I thoroughly enjoyed their company and submerged myself in the music of the waves lapping on the stone steps.
And my most favourite moment on the ghats. The sheer co-incidence made my heart dance with joy. I mean, I don’t live in the city so while going on the trip I carried this saree and then wore it while I visited this particular ghat. When my eyes suddenly fell on this Kathakali dancer, I could almost feel the mirth in his eyes too. A slice of Kerala on the wall as well as my saree.
The divine form of Ardhnareeshwar depicts that Shiva and Shakti, Lord Shiva and goddess Parvati both are equal and inseparable. This form represents the masculine and femenine energy of cosmos to be equal and depending upon each other to complete oneself. The perfect balance of universe is indicated here. The Ardhnareeshwara strotam composed by Adishankaracharya is a very beautiful and significant hymn describing the beauty and harmony of this form.
This view of Ghats is painted on wall in the corridor area. Certain old buildings and walls are intact midst the newly constructed area and the efforts to recreate the old charm have been made. After all Shiva watches everything.
This frame is from Dashashwamesh Ghat. It being Shravan month groups of pilgrims, kanwariyas travelling barefoot flooded the city. As this particular group of ladies sat down to take rest, Ganesha in the background showered His grace.
Now let us walk through few of the lanes of Varanasi.
From ancient times to this day this is what varanasi is, the bliss of surrendering to the that power beyond. Look at the expression of the yogi. He appears to have made the connection with Him.
Shiva and Sadhu. It is said and believed that Kashi stands on the trident of Shiva. I loved the idea of painter to merge the Tilak, the trident and the Shivalinga. Krishna with His ever-sweet expression looks beautiful. And look at the flowing beard of the Sadhu, one can listen to the waves of Ganges there.
Here we can see Nav Grah, nine planets painted on the wall. on another side of the door is depicted the mythological anecdote of Markandey , Yama and Shiva. The story goes like this. Sage Mrikandu and his Marudavati were blessed by a son after praying Shiva for a very long time. Lord Shiva gave the sage an option– 100 foolish sons or one very intelligent son with a life span of only 16 years. Sage chose the later but as the son grew up the sage became sadder thinking of the approaching death of his son. However whe the son Markanday came to know about it he decided to pray lord Shiva himself. Markandeya created his own Shivalinga and started worshipping him, offering prayers to Him. As the appointed day of the death came Lord Yama Himself came to take the boy. Markandey clung to Shivalinga. Yama threw His noose around Markandeya but Shivalinga too got caught in it as Markandey clung to it very tightly. Suddenly Lord Shiva appeared from Shivalinga and Yama had to spare Markandeya’s life. Then Markendeya created the famous maha Mritunjaya Mantra. The young boy grew up to become famous sage Markandeya.
Lord Vishnu on the wall, the peacock on the side wall but the best part of this frame is that tree on the wall. How beautifully the thin strip of the space has been utilised and leaves and branch over the door give a nice effect.
A scene from ghats and a slice of history in one frame. Most probably she is our Jhansi ki Rani Laxmi Bai. She has got a strong connection with this city. She was born in this city. Manikarnika of Kashi later on became Laxmi Bai of Jhansi.
Shiva absorbing and containing The Halahal[poison] churned during Sagar Manthan. Neel Kanth Mahadeva, a power beyond words, endless, limitless.
Mata Annapoorna giving alms to Lord Shiva. Mata Annapoorna is very prominently revered at Varanasi. Besides Kashi Annapoorna temple there are other big and small temples of Devi Annapoorna at Varanasi. This legend establishes the importance of feminine power, the caring and mothering forces for the sustenance of the world, so much so that even lord had to bow down and accept it.
Here are Ganesha and Maruti Nandan.
Om Mahadev.
Goddess Laxami
And here is one example of contemporary art, a landscape.
It’s not just paintings on the walls but while walking through these narrow lanes of varied width, buzzing with daily life activities one could easily locate few of the live paintings too– A aged gentleman with a child sleeping on lap, manning a small shop, a man sleeping on platform oblivious to the daily chaos around him, carved doors and a lone figure inside a house. The maze of the narrow lanes with continuous play of light, shade and darkness opens an altogether different world before you. This is where we experience mundane with spiritual.
bits and pieces 