Warning – Long text. Short version: it was hard but fantastic and we f-ing did it.
Sverigetempot. 2165km from Riksgränsen in the very north of Sweden to Smykehuk, the country’s southernmost point. For me this was a journey home to my native Skåne, a journey through the entire vastness of the country that I was born and raised in but still, at 33 years of age, have only seen selected parts of with my own eyes.
In strictly physical terms the journey started on 09.00, Sunday July 17th 2016. Mentally the journey started months ago and subconsciously I think I’ve been on my way since I first heard about this event.
Before start – travel, preparation, anticipation
For a number of years now I’ve had a very strong dislike for events that involve more logistics than actual sports. So, it’s a good thing that the actual time and distance to ride is as extreme as it is because getting from Copenhagen to Riksgränsen isn’t entirely trivial.
I took the morning flight from Copenhagen to Stockholm Friday July 15th and then the earliest possible connection to Kiruna, bringing me there at 14.25. That was the exact same minute THE bus for Narvik, stopping at Riksgränsen, departed. But, a taxi brought me to Kiruna train station in time for the day’s last train towards Narvik. The train essentially follows the same route as the first 130 km of Sverigetempot and through the train window I got my first glimpse of the route but more importantly – a part of the country I’d never seen before. To my urbanised eyes this was a two hour train ride through a vast wilderness.
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Some days you should just avoid the in-flight magazine…
Outside the hotel/restaurant/supermarket/race HQ in Katterjokk there was a relative frenzy of activity this Friday evening. The majority of riders were starting the following morning and were busy with their final preparations. The general mood was still relaxed though with people chatting and looking at bikes. A few people I’d met before in various settings. Some I only knew from the online world and some were complete strangers. But the same call had brought us up north so we all had something in common. I’m very happy I decided to travel a day early as I would have missed out on this part otherwise.
For me and the others in the second start the evening and following day was also spent discussing tactics and strategy – it’s good to know who intends to do what and how. While brevets strictly speaking are individual events, there are gains to be made if you manage to establish a well-functioning group. On the other hand it doesn’t make sense to keep a group together if ambitions and abilities within the group are too different. The 12 people in my start group contained several very strong and experienced cyclists who I could potentially ride with if I wanted to and they wanted to. But not everyone shows up to go full gas every time and eventually it seemed as if my objectives aligned best with those of Ian To and Toni Arndt.
Ian from England is doing his first season with really long events but had just come off winning two ultra races in Italy (2200km) and Croatia (1400km) and was hungry for more. Ian and I have been in contact prior to the event so we have learned a little bit about each others strenghts.
Toni is well known on the Swedish randonneuring scene for strong rides at PBP and other long events. Prior to Sverigetempot we knew each other only by reputation, but I think we’d both been looking forward to try a ride together with the other nutcase.
Toni (and Jonas Nilsson) also holds the course record from Sverigetempot 2012 at 106 hours 20 minutes. This year we were facing an approximately 50km longer course but we were excited and optimistic about breaking the record and maybe even go under 100 hours.
It was a lovely Friday evening in the land of the midnight sun. At around 23.00 Ian and I (who were sharing an apartment after an an online coincidence and some chatting in the weeks leading up to this) found ourselves restless and after a few minutes deliberation decided to go cycling. He’d never been to Norway so we rode a few kilometers past the border before turning around.

Midnight Sun Shakedown
Saturday July 16th 2016 saw the start for the first group. This was the group that had elected to ride under a 180 hour time limit (while my group had a maximum of 146 hours at our disposal). Some in that group because they needed all the time they could get and others because they are more sensible than I am and prefer to take on this adventure in a more relaxed manner. Yes, this is an event where doing 300km per day for a week in relative terms can be considered”relaxed”; anyway you look at it Sverigetempot is not for the faint hearted.
![IMG_9850[1]](https://oscarahellstrom.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/img_98501.jpg?w=452&h=339)
The first start group gathering across the border.
Some of us rode out to the start with the first group to give them a send off. At 09.00 sharp all 35 of them rolled from Norway past the sign marking the Swedish border and they were on their way. I rode alongside them for a bit before sprinting ahead to try to take some pictures. I didn’t get very far in the stiff headwind and as I returned to the hotel only to notice the rain coming in a little later I and the other guys considered ourselves quite lucky that we weren’t starting until the day after.
The rest of the day was spent pacing around, checking bikes, chatting, eating, drinking coffee and the odd beer, all while we were watching the rain fall and fall and fall. In fact it rained all day and all night, 18 hours straight, until shortly before we rolled out to the start on Sunday morning.
Day 1 – The Mighty North – The Light Night
Some riders struggled with last minute mechanical problems causing them and some of their friends to hang back a bit. This meant that shortly after the start we were down to a group of eight. The wind had shifted in our favour so we were cruising along at around 35 km/h without putting too much effort in. It’s great to be underway, waiting around at the start was getting rather tedious as there weren’t anymore things to really do except get more nervous.
The E10 towards Kiruna is indeed spectacular, winding its way along Torne Träsk and the mountains. Vegetation is scarce above the arctic circle making everything seem more dramatic. After about an hour on wet roads we were riding in the dry. In fact, this was as wet as we’d get on this ride – finally some luck with the weather on a long ride and what an occasion to cash in!

The group rolling along the spectacular E10
The climate means the roads up north are frozen for much of the year. This means that a) they lead a very hard life and b) the necessary repairs must be completed in a rather short time window during summer. Consequently very long sections at the time are “under construction” and what’s left to ride on is a rough mix of gravel and coarse rocks. About 60km in I get the first puncture in the group and my first in a brevet since 2014. Guess I spent my luck on the weather, haha. Toni and Ian wait while I change the inner tube and we’re soon on our way again. It takes about an hour to catch the others again. I certainly don’t blame anyone else for not waiting, it was just a clear indication that the others didn’t expect to keep up with me in the long run anyway and actually it was pretty good to have the roles established early on.

Ian negotiating the roadworks.

At least we did better than this guy….
Once we caught the others the group continued at a rather high pace towards Kiruna. As the tailwind shifted to a cross wind we rode both in echelons and a Belgian chain. For some reason the intensity was pushed way up during the final 30km into Kiruna. When we eased off riding into the city we all looked around at each other; it appeared everyone felt that push was entirely unnecessary but no one wanted to take responsibility for initiating it… oh well.
After a short stop at the Kiruna control (132km) we set out as a quartet with Manuel from Germany joining us for a couple of hours before dropping back. The road between Kiruna and Gällivare and onwards towards Porjus can only be described as monotonous. Endless straights lined with trees with only the odd river or scatter of houses to break it up for hours and hours. It’s ok to get bored but if you only see trees you’re kind of missing the point. The fact that you ride for hours along seemingly identical roads is a beautiful illustration of just how immense this part of Sweden is. Those who have read the book “Populärmusik från Vittula” might recall the discussion about the rivers in Norrland vs. those measly ones in Halland that Swedish school kids learn about. When you’re riding through Lappland it makes perfect sense; everything up here operates on a different scale and it’s that contrast to my (and most other people’s) everyday life that makes the initial part of the Sverigetempot journey so fascinating.

Road. Trees. Road. Trees. Road. Trees.
The entire section was ridden into a slight headwind, though not very strong by Copenhagen standards. The terrain is mostly flat and the road well suited to long steady pulls on the front and our trio rode well with 5-10km long pulls, meaning you got plenty of time to sit at the back looking around, eating and drinking. Readers of this blog have probably figured out that I can ride a bike, so it’s only fair that I state in no uncertain terms that so can Toni and Ian.
We took a quick stop in Gällivare to fill up some water and could see on the tracker that we were rather far ahead of the of the others so we carried on feeling quite relaxed and generally good about ourselves.
As you approach Porjus the landscape changes somewhat. There is more water with huge hydropower stations who have also brought slightly more houses with them. Porjus itself has lots of large, beautiful wooden villas overlooking the water. After Porjus we encountered the longest stretch of roadworks, at least 7km of uninterrupted rough gravel. Back home me and my friends seek out dirt roads on our road bikes for fun and so I rather enjoyed riding through these roadworks. So did Toni while Ian declared he “hates this shit” and nursed his bike through. Probably a wise move as mine and Toni’s enthusiasm resulted in “The Great Porjus Puncture Fest”. With 600km to the drop bag in Östersund we were rapidly running out of inner tubes… not good.

Toni’s turn to fix a flat. That ain’t no ordinary #sportgrus
At around 21.00 we rolled in to the control in Jokkmokk (344km) for our first “proper” meal of the ride – sausages and mashed potatoes at Statoil (no, not a single sign of a CircleK logo in case you wondered). Our puncture extravaganza had taken some time so before we had finished eating Peter, Martin and Josef walked in to enjoy a similarly glorious rando meal. This would be the last time we bumped into Josef and Martin while Peter eventually arrived in Östersund before we left)
We met lots of friendly and curious people along the route. Outside Statoil in Jokkmokk some local guys took a careful look at our bikes before they laughingly questioned why we’d brought lights – we weren’t headed for darkness just yet. I’m not sure if this is a reflection on people in Norrland in general or if they’re just better at hiding what they actually think of you but most seemed genuinely interested in our adventure.
After a rather long stop in Jokkmokk we headed into the night. The next control was Vilhelmina an astonishing 370km away. We would need to stop a few times on the way but there really aren’t many options on this stretch of road. It was a cold night, 2-3 degrees and rather damp. Luckily we were feeling strong and didn’t suffer any mishaps so we could keep on riding pretty much all night. Riding one night non-stop is pretty standard fare in this sport so I don’t think anyone was particularly challenged sleep wise. The mood was good during this night and we kept making good speed.
At around 04.00 we got the Arvidsjaur were the organisers Peter and Kalle had set up a little roadside depot with coffee, some snacks and water to fill up our bottles. We’d covered the first 500km in 19 hours and were doing very well. We didn’t hang around long as it was cold and we were being eaten alive by mosquitoes.
It was mutually agreed before the start that we would try to reached the manned control in Östersund (955km) before the first real sleep. After Arvidsjaur you turn left in order to stay on the E45 and the road sign didn’t leave anyone in doubt about the day’s task: “Östersund 441”.
Day 2 – Joining Forces
We rode onwards through the early morning hours towards Sorsele (580km) where past Sverigetempot competitor Kalle Gunnar was also handing out coffee and sandwiches from the back of his car. Here it should be noted that while Sverigetempot is an unsupported event it is allowed for friends and strangers alike to cheer along the route and also bring some refreshments. There are events out there that pretty much prohibit any contact with people along but at Sverigetempot the key is that you don’t ride with organised following support. I had no issues eating a fair amount while Toni was struggling a bit more with his appetite at this point and Ian used the short break to sleep rather than eat. The plan was to ride to Storuman 70 km down the road and have an enormous hotel breakfast – a strategy successfully used by Toni in the past.
The road between Arvidsjaur and Storuman isn’t terribly exiting either. At one point approaching Storuman I swung off the front in despair, convinced I was riding the same bloody hill for the fourth time – not very steep or long, just an annoying drag curving right so you can’t quite see the top. The most exiting thing we encountered was a confused reindeer trying to run away from us (successfully, granted) along the road rather than just get off it.
After 25 hours of riding we rolled into Storuman (650km) only to discover we were an hour late for breakfast. Thanks to Kalle Gunnar’s little aid station I wasn’t exactly dying from starvation but it was still very disappointing to be denied the bacon and egg excess I’d been looking forward to. We have since learned that there might have been other options such as supermarkets had we been desperate, but we wanted cooked food now. After a 10 minute rest on the lawn outside the hotel we set off for Vilhemina 70 km away hoping to get there at a suitable time for lunch.
Leaving Storuman the landscape again opened up with more houses, more lakes and more open views. It was a rather lovely day in fact and our trio powered along in a tight TTT formation. Our little group works well together with eveyone taking good, solid pulls at the front. We encourage each other, complementing good efforts and generally maintain a high spirit and focus. Approaching Vilhelmina we also started catching riders from the first start and it’s always nice to exchange a few words before carrying on. In Vilhelmina (715km) we had essentially done one third of the course in 28 hours. We hadn’t really slept at all and food wise we were more getting by than doing something truly sustainable so it was inevitable that the pace would drop. But for now we were happy tucking into fläskpannkaka and sausages at the buffet lunch. Some poor people came in after us…
After Vilhelmina I finally worked up the courage to take the leg warmers off. I’d been scared that the leg pain I suffered on the 600k in May would come back and doing 1500km with that would not be pleasant. But now it was so warm I felt safe. We continued chugging along the occassionally passing people from the first start. Most of them held a significantly lower pace than us but when we stopped for a toilet and ice cream break in Dorotea Martin (who I know from some of the Malmö brevets) came storming in from the cafe across the road very pleased to have found someone to ride with for a bit. He had adopted the strategy of riding fast in between eating and sleeping well, which left him rather lonely on the road.

Martin from the first start kept us company between Dorotea and Östersund and also showed us Frasses in Strömsund. Haven’t been to Frasses? Guess you haven’t been to Norrland then 😉
We continued as a quartet, all aiming to get to Östersund before midnight. At one point we lost Martin due to a mechanical but shortly after that our trio stopped for a 10 minute power nap and when we got back on the road we quickly found him again. It was nice with some new company for us and any company for Martin.
Following a food stop in Strömsund, where I also managed to skype with wife and kids for a brief moment, we rolled into a glorious summer evening with sun drenched fields, blue skies and lakes. At some point at least I realised that the 110km between Strömsund and Östersund was a bit too much to be just a cruise at this stage of the ride. But despite our now rather serious lack of sleep we kept it together well and Martin’s presence also meant we could tell the jokes and stories of the previous two days without the need to think of new ones.

Somewhere between Strömsund and Östersund. Seeing farmed land was rather heartwarming.
The evening started turning to night and getting rather chilly so at some point we had to crank up the intensity a bit to stay warm rather than stop to change clothes. When we thought we were very nearly at the control it turned out that the route out the airport at Frösön consisted mostly of steep, annoying hills. Not quite what you need when you just want to go to bed.
Upon arrival at the control (955km) at around 23.30 it turned out our trio wasn’t quite in agreement as to how long this sleep should be. In the end it was concluded that we’d order wake up at 03.30, giving us perhaps a longer rest than I had originally expected. On the other hand here we had access to actual beds indoors and so getting a better rest now would likely pay off next day when sleeping facilities might be ok, but certainly not as favourable as here. I showered and ate some food (pasta, yoghurt, nutella sandwiches… anything they had really haha) before going to bed stark naked. If you’ve made it this far in this text you’re interested enough to deserve to know that some fresh air around certain areas is most welcome after sitting on a bike for 39 hours.
Quite a few of the early starters, many of which I knew at least a bit, were sitting casually at the control, not riding again until morning. Despite the lack of sleep it was time well spent to chat a bit with them, hear some of their stories and gossip from the three days of riding this group had had. It can be lonely out on the road even in a trio and any external injections are welcome to keep your mind occupied. At this point we weren’t even halfway through but already so many things had happened to so many people. Some had abandoned the race due to injury, some were behind schedule due to either physical or mechanical problems. Each rider had his or her head full of impression. There were still 1200km to go.
I got out of bed at 3.15 for some more undulgence: at this control each rider got access to a drop bag (a shoe box) containing whatever you had the sense to put in it before the start. Feeling very happy I put on a complete change of cycling clothes. I also packed my bike with all the four spare tubes and the extra patch kit I had in the drop bag and picked up a fresh battery pack for my GPS.
Day 3 – In for the long haul – Headed for disaster
After this beauty sleep and calorie rich food we quite literally “rode out at dawn”. And what a morning it was. Storsjön is big and you spend the better part of the morning riding along it amongst, fields, trees and houses. Anyone notice a trend that I’m happier when water is within sight? The morning was so lovely it took us quite a while to realise it was bloody freezing. The downside of the very slow sunsets up north (ok ok, we were now smack in the middle of the country but I’m from the actual south so deal with it!) is equally slow sunrises, meaning you see the sun for hours before it provides any noticeable heat.

Early bird extraordinaire by Storsjön.
After Åsarna we turned left of the beaten track and rode past the signs marking the end of the public road. Gently humming bob hund (if you know you know) in my head we climbed “The Peter Tonér Hill” before rejoining the main road towards the control in Vemdalen. The road past Klövsjö and Vemdalsskalet are some of the few extended actual climbs on the Sverigetempot route. Sweden does have mountains but the mountainous regions are very scarcely populated meaning there aren’t really any roads. With these climbs having such limited significance in the grand scheme of things we all took it quite easy. It was even suggested that we’d be better off awarding the mountain points on the descents as that was were we put the effort in.
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Descending to Klövsjö. Toni in alpine mode. Ski slopes lacking snow.
The Vemdalen control (as per usual when I say “control”, apart from Östersund which was manned by the organisers, its really just any establishment or individual that can validate your card such that you can prove you’ve been there) at 1085km marked the half waypoint of the ride. We were there in just under 49 hours and things were looking good. 100 hours was looking fairly tight already but the course record was certainly within reach.
On the (boring) road between Vemdalen and Sveg we overtook the (at least according to the tracker) leading rider from the first start group, meaning we were now first on the road. The road to Sveg is rather uninspiring, but all three of us were feeling fresh (or at least no one let on) so we were powering along delivering what must have been our best 2 hour segment since day 1. In Sveg we opted for lunch (stekt fläsk, for those concerned about our diets) rather than posing with the world’s largest wooden bear and then set off on the 170km leg to Älvdalen via Särna.

Toni taking a selfie full of symbolism on the spot outside Sveg where he abandoned Sverigetempot, cold and disillusioned, in 2014. This time things were very different.
In previous years the route has gone straight to Älvdalen from Lillhärdal. But this year due to very significant roadworks on that stretch we were re-routed past Särna. This brought in a new element – The Quest for the most mind-numbingly dull road in Sweden! I haven’t cycled all roads in Sweden but out of all the kilometers ridden so far Särnavägen in Härjedalen gets my nomination. The tarmac was crap. Not in a fun way, but just an annoying way. The trees lining it were entirely uninteresting. Just big enough to block the view completely. All cars drove past doing what seemed like 200km/h towing mobile homes. I can understand their eagerness to get out of there…
At Särna the road turns left/south towards Älvdalen before entering the village so despite diminishing water supplies we started the 80km remaining before our dinner break. Now it needs to be said that Särna-Älvdalen is a rather nice stretch of road with many fast descents and, as you get closer to the end, fantastic views of Dalälven. So, ww weren’t suffering too badly although the eagerness to get some food meant we pushed the pace very hard the last hour.

Särnavägen in Härjedalen, possibly the most boring road in the world. Crappy tarmac and all those shit small trees lacking that are only good for blocking the view.
It is exceedingly popular amongst Swedish randonneurs to eat pizza. Those of you who has followed Sverigetempot or any other brevet will know this. On the brevets from Malmö Nils and I have actively tried to get away from this, simply because it isn’t very efficient time wise (and lets face it, not nutrition wise either). But we were now approaching the end of the third day and at least Toni really wanted pizza. But this was not to be an ordinary pizza meal but instead The Almost Famous Älvdalen Feast. As we rolled through town I was the first one to express concern about the amount of energy in a single pizza, suggesting I might order two… When we stepped in to the restaurant Ian quickly bettered that by ordering a burger meny and a pizza, an order which I copied. Toni ordered a pizza and a portion of bacon and eggs which he duly dumped on top of his pizza. The mood was very good as we ate our food (of course we ate it, we’d covered more than 1300km by now) and we made plans for the coming night. We’d try to make it to Lesjöfors for some sleep at the (in)famous Esperantogården. This was almost 180km away so it would be early morning at best when we got there.
During the third night its only fair to say we collectively failed on a number of accounts. It’s not always easy to tell when someone is struggling either physically, mentally or both, especially with people you’ve never ridden with before. Sometimes people will drift off the back, other times stay at the front for too long while letting the speed drop and drop. Indecision regarding clothing or food can be one sign as can a lack of focus on getting the critical things done at controls; stamp your card, fill your bottles, buy food. Remaining patient and supportive when you yourself is close to the limit, but someone else is slightly worse off, isn’t easy either.
It remains somewhat unclear exactly what happened during the third night but we all did things we shouldn’t have. It’s hard to say exactly when things started going wrong. After Älvdalen the route follows nice, small roads past many places known from Vasaloppet. I even sprinted symbolically at the Evertsberg sign to have something to do. It was a lovely evening and actually rather warm. At the control in Venjan (1367km) there’s nothing open at 22.30 so we took pictures of ourselves in front of the village sign and things seem fine.
Riding towards Vansbro it is getting dark (we’re now definitely far enough south for this) and both Ian and I are feeling sleepy while Toni is having a good period. We stop twice in short succession for a 10 minute nap. It’s easy to say afterwards that we should have slept more while it was still warm but the fact is that nobody voiced such an opinion as we all hoped to make it to Lesjöfors and be able to sleep inside. Maybe we overrated ourselves, the sleep we’d had in Östersund or something else but Lesjöfors was now only 60km away and you would think we should be able to make that.
Somewhere after Vansbro I realise I am really struggling. I can’t for the life of me hold the wheels of the others. The pace isn’t spectacularly high as Toni is doing his best to keep Ian awake by telling anecdotes about wallabies, but I just can’t concentrate on staying close and constantly find myself dangling off the back. I claw my way back a few times but then drift 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 metres behind. After a while Ian has plugged his headphones in (I assume there are only so many things to say about wallabies) to help keep awake and begins to ride in a rather erratic way; inconsistent pace, sometimes dropping us, sometimes falling behind Toni. In retrospect he’s off course very tired but there and then I find it somewhat selfish to put the headphones in when I’m also in trouble and we need to help each other rather than isolate ourselves.
I’m mostly hopelessly off the back, eventually swerving onto the wrong side of the road and the situation is getting desperate (this was in fact the only time during the entire ride that I felt what I was doing wasn’t safe. Luckily this didn’t last long). Somewhere here Toni has the clarity to decide that we’re not gonna make it to Lesjöfors like this; a break is necessary and somehow he manages to pull us all together on the road. It’s now around 04.00, damp, cold and there’s nowhere to hide.
Toni and I find some sort of insect farm about 2 metres from the road where we curl up in aluminium foil blankets on top of a mix of wet grass and dirty tarmac. Ian doesn’t have a blanket so we agree that he’ll carry on to the nearest bus stop and sleep there, then we will come and collect him when we wake up. Following about half an hour on the ground with some of the worst sleep I’ve ever had we give up and get back on our bikes. Despite the awful resting place it now seems realistic to complete the remaining 35km to Lesjöfors. We ride for quite some time without any trace of Ian and when we finally see him he’s riding further up the road and we’re not too far from Lesjöfors. Toni and I aren’t riding very fast nor is Ian so it takes us a while to actually catch up with him. I’m not sure he realised we were chasing at this point, maybe he thought we’d gone ahead? When we finally make contact not much of an effort is made by any of us to assess the situation and I actually don’t think anyone said anything here. Toni and I take turns on the front and while we realised there was a gap back to Ian we thought it was small, expecting him to close it like we’d just closed the gap to him. When we get to Lesjöfors the gap to Ian has grown so big we can’t see him anymore even after waiting down at the crossroads for a while. During the last three days no one has stood out as a weaker cyclist than the others and with the exhaustion only just kept at bay it seems odd more than anything else that he’s out of sight. Why didn’t he say something when he was dropped? Does he not want to ride with us? Confusion is the word best describing the situation.
As a temporary duo we make our way to Esperantogården and send Ian a message describing how to find us. When he walks in a few minutes later everybody’s pissed off for various reasons. Accusations fly through the air about who should have waited for who when, what should have been done, what shouldn’t have been done and who said and meant what. The discussion is equally heated and pointless. We’re all much too tired to see the big picture and we’ve all made mistakes. We sleep. When we wake up the argument continues. We have ridden close to 1500km now but still have almost 700km remaining. We’re all struggling with sore legs, hands and arses. The mood is crap after the night’s fiasco. This is the absolute low point of the trip.
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Lesjöfors. Wednesday morning 7am. What if this is as good as it gets?
Day 4 – Regroup, Recover, Ride
On leaving Lesjöfors the argument turns to stubborn silence for a while until we all seem to realise that having slept about 4 hours in three nights isn’t a good enough excuse to act like a man-sized baby. So we get the chat going, apologise for being idiots and decide to get on with things. We know that Toni’s mother-in-law is waiting with breakfast in Hällefors just over an hour away and this combined with some lovely roads through the old silver mining country helps lift the spirit.
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Back in Black headed for Hällefors.
When we reach Hällefors the sun has warmed everything up and we sit on a bench outside the petrol station and tuck into copious amounts of sandwiches, eggs and coffee. I particularly enjoy the apples, it’s lovely to eat something fresh after three days subsiding on stodgy fast-food.
The road from Hällefors down to the control in Karlskoga is very nice. Approaching 1600km it is now very evident that we’re all struggling with some pains and aches. There are periods where you can only sit on the saddle for a few seconds before you feel a desperate need to change position, get out of the saddle, just doing something different. This is hard to do at the front as your expected to maintain a steady pace when you’re there. It’s pretty easy to tell when someone’s having a bad period as they tend to get off the front after only a short turn. But then suddenly the body accepts its fate and goes confortaby numb for, typically, at least a few hours before it resumes begging you to stop. We’re all going through the same cycles but mostly out of sync so generally at least one or two of us can carry on doing useful works
In Karlskoga (1595km) we have another spectacular sausage and mash lunch (with räksallad, yes). For the first time since the start I hear the sirens of an emergency vehicle and it gives me a suprisingly homely feeling. The weather has turned into actual summer and I put on the superlight jersey and thin socks I’ve carried since Östersund and with that I’ve used every piece of clothing I brought on the ride. In the future I will still try to pack lighter, but with such a geographically vast course you need to prepare for at least some eventualities and I think I came quite close to meeting my own needs in a suitable way.

Beauty sleep outside Degerfors. Rando-life at its finest.
The approximate hour’s sleep in an unmade bed in Lesjöfors had worn off after lunch and outside Degerfors we call a 30 minute break. Obviously, this is how and when you should sleep when you’re riding in this way. The grass is dry and the sun is warm – you don’t need blankets or extra clothes and you’re woken by the alarm on the phone and not from shivering or being eaten by bugs. If every long-distance brevet course had sun drenched soft lawns next to lakes at even intervals this would be a very pleasant sport!

#bruksort
Following the nap we’re feeling sharp. At least I reach the comfortably numb bliss quickly and for the coming hours we can all take long, fast turns (around 30km/h as far as I recall) and we ride towards Skövde in a way that actually doesn’t reveal just how many kilometers we have in our bodies. This is now a very warm summer day, at least by Scandinavian standards and we need to fill up our bottles. Onew would think that the service level would increase further south but this would only hold true if we stayed on the main roads. Up north we stayed on THE road and all services the area had to offer were on our path. Now we’re riding backroads through farmland and tiny villages. There are no shops there as people drive to the nearest town to shop. But there are some houses and when we see a man outside in his garden we come to a halt and politely ask to fill our bottles. We’re let into the kitchen and after some chit chat with him and his wife they ask if we’ve cycled far. “Yes, from Riksgränsen”. I realise here that while 400, 600 or 1000km are entirely abstract distances to most people everyone can relate to the entire length of the country they live in. They might not know the exact distance or how great an effort it would be to ride this, but they know it’s very far and they realise it’s a great achievement. It’s odd that the longest distance is the most self-explanatory.
The landscape opens up more and more, with fewer trees and more farmland. Approaching Skövde the terrain also gets flatter as we wind our way south on small country lanes. Once at the control (1723km, another CirkleK, another sausage and mash) I’m hit by the feeling that this is almost over. We have about 445km to go, which will eventually take close to 24 hours, but everything we do from here will be the last time; last dinner, last evening, last night, last morning, last day. We’ve got a long way to go but after days of just going, going, going this is at least the beginning of the end.
After negotiating some urban orienteering (the only time during the whole ride in fact – it’s amazing that you can avoid urban passages almost entirely while riding the full length of a country) we chose to ride the main road between Skövde and Ulricehamn (There were two official allowed routes between Skövde and Tranemo and we picked a mix of the two). On a spot of grass outside Falköping we take a 30 minute sleep break. At this point we feel rather wise, we’ve learned our lesson from the night before and sleep while it’s still nice and warm outside. We don’t have firm plan for how to get through the coming night but I think we more or less expect to be able to force ourselves through the last bit.
In Ulricehamn close to midnight we have another fastfood meal (I have a picture but this is not a food blog); we likely won’t find anything open until Laholm about 200km away so best to stuff ourselves before heading into the night. The food establishment refuse to let us borrow their toilet so after a few kilometers we stop next to a camp site along the route. Toni heads for the bushes and I roll maybe 20 metres further to pee with Ian somewhere in between. When Toni returns I shout to get Ian’s attention and it’s not until now I realise he’s not by his bike. We get our battery lamps out and start searching, wondering if he’s asleep in the ditch or something, I even briefly speculate that he might have fallen in the lake. After a few moments of confusion a camper comes up and directs us to the camp site toilets where we can find Ian. 5 hours sleep in the last 90 hours is taking its toll on all of us…
From Ulricehamn to Tranemo we ride the small road which is an old railroad track made into a very long and very straight bike lane. I’m sure the view is lovely in daylight but in our tired state we would likely have benefitted from being able to bomb on the open road. This night, our last night, I am the one struggling the least with sleep. The bike lane only allows two people riding abreast so I’m mostly relegated to riding alone while Ian and Toni keep each other awake with various discussion topics (“which professional cyclist do you like/dislike the most?” was one. Ian and Australia-born Toni had slight Imperial bias…)
In Tranemo we take a 10 minute nap at the bus station while the local youth is occupied with a moped race on the adjacent street. Still, the concrete floors were dry and sheltered so we could have slept more here. But we carry on in the night but a few hours later have to stop for 30 minutes at another concrete floor behind a petrol station in…. (actually have to look at the map while writing this)… Sjötofta.

The last night. Herding the flock in the full moon.
The rest of the night and early morning we ride towards the control in Hyltebruk. Despite now being far south the night is very, very cold. Ian and particularly Toni are very sleepy. Toni explains that is getting rather tricky to determine which one of me to follow, but I refuse any more stops in that temperature, it just wouldn’t be a wise thing to do. The sun eventually dawns on our last day and the world springs to life around us. We see lots of deer and even a wild boar. This is actually the most wildlife we see during the whole ride. In Hyltebruk (1905km) we have to make do with another photo control in the early morning hours before taking another 30 minute rest on some benches down at the square. I’m ready to go home now so only sleep for some of it. With Toni and Ian snoring away I email our photo stamps to the organisers and try to arrange a coffee date with Patch in Laholm.
Out of Hyltebruk it seems we all want to go home as we set of in a (under the circumstances) furious pace. About halfway to Laholm Patch and his friend Colin meet us by bike. We very politely (at least we think so, but I’ve later heard that we operated in a “no filter mode”) ask that they don’t take any pulls for us but it’s great to meet someone new to talk to. The stories come pouring out of all three of us despite us being very tired.
Day 5 – The End, The Bitter End and The Glorious End
At the Preem station in Laholm we have something I suppose must classify as brunch. They have a salad bar and it’s great to mix things up with some fruits and vegetables (and a huge serving of chicken, cheese and eggs – this wasn’t a vegan rando outfit). Here we again shift into our lightest clothes and Ian even gives away his overshoes. We’re now only 170km from the finish. We’ve been out for 97 hours so quite clearly we won’t make Sub100, but the course record of 106:20 is definitely within reach and we’re all looking forward to finishing this.
A bit after Laholm, actually during the climb of Hallandsås, our trio comes to the Skåne sign. This is my homecoming, one of the things I really looked forward to even as i signed up for this. I’ve now ridden the entire length of the country to come home. For the rest of the ride, I’m on home turf.
Negotiating Hallandsås (and later Söderåsen) wasn’t too bad really even with 2000km in the legs. Sure, no one was pushing the pace but the main body parts were doing what they were supposed to. The biggest problem when I got to the top of a climb was that by now my hands were in such a poor state that I couldn’t shift back up to the big ring without putting my left palm on the lever and push with the whole arm. I suffered form this at the Stavanger 1000km last year too, which despite the shorter distance included WAY more use of the small chainring hence many more shifts. Electric gears would have been nice, on the other hand this ride was so long Ian actually had to charge his Di2 batteries along the way. Guess you can’t have it all when you’re pushing limits, huh…
Anyway, we’re now chugging along in the pace we happen to have. We stop for ice cream in Klippan, comfortable that we’ll make the record. After riding up and down Söderåsen we get to the final control in Kågeröd (2065km). The flower shop is closed due to vacation we we get a stamp and some water from the supermarket instead. None of us buy any food, we “only” have 100km to go. If the Söderåsen climb wasn’t an issue the drag out of Kågeröd on the 109 towards the 108 was a real downer. We just wanted to finish this and someone put an annoying rise in the road there. On top of this the wind was southeasterly which is not a favourable direction if you’re trying to get to Smygehuk. I’m not even sure it was a particularly strong wind (by Skåne/Copenhagen standards I’m actually almost certain it wasn’t) but right there and then it was strong enough.
With between 50 and 60 km to go I get my fifth puncture of the ride. Sure, it was the first one in 1350km but five is still too much. At least I’ve had enough practice changing inner tubes so with Toni and Ian cheering (or was it mocking and taking pictures?) we’re soon on our way. Riding through Genarp with about 40km to go fans start lining the streets. Ok, they’re only two. But Anders has cycled all the way from Norway just to join Linn in cheering for us… or something along those lines… a bit further my dad is also standing by the side of the road. I knew they’d all meet us at the finish but it’s great seeing them out there. With about an hour to go Ian mobilises his last strength and start pulling at a furious pace whilst shouting that we have to make the time cut. Having ridden like a rather sorry bunch for the last few hours it’s a bit of a shock to the system for me and Toni. We go full gas for a few kilometers before we manage to get through and explain that we have a good hours margin to the record and more than 40 hours to the actual time limit. It’s an impressive physical display but it also shows what an event like this executed like we did can do to you. After 104 hours Ian riding +30km/h into the wind but can’t quite comprehend what we’re saying to him. When you push to the limit sometimes the body can’t do everything at once anymore.

Homeward bound.
Eventually it all settles down, the wind seems to shift in our favour and it’s a late summer afternoon as beautiful as they come. Suddenly as we come over the 57th little undulation the ocean come in sight. This essentially is what we’ve been riding towards for the last 4.5 days. Or trio rolls in to Smygehuk, and turn left past the harbour kiosk and at 17:57 slam the brakes in front of the sign marking Sweden’s southernmost point. We made it. 104 hours and 57 minutes. It’s a new course record, the fastest known time through Sweden.
We made it essentially from from start to finish as a trio. A trio composed of three dads who didn’t actually know each other beforehand, knew only a little bit about each other beforehand and had never cycled a single metre together beforehand. On a ride of this length and duration you will inevitably have good periods and bad periods; sometimes you can barely stay awake, other times you’re mysteriously sharp at 03.00 in the morning. Sometimes you almost can’t sit on the saddle and your legs are like logs of wood only to be super strong moments later. When you’re riding with others your own good and bad periods might not match the others and there will be times where you could easily get away from the others due to stronger legs, less sleep requirement or less need for breaks and stops be it to pee, to change clothes or something completely different. Likewise, there will be periods when you’re at the mercy of your companions not to be left alone. This is what you get when you choose to ride in a group. Although randonneur events are strictly speaking individual events at some point you’re committed to your companions and accept but the good sides and the bad. The main reason Toni, Ian and I could stick together for so long is that we are all capable of doing meaningful work even after 4 days on the bike.
We were thrown in here by coincidence and we made it work. At the finish external support was very much allowed and we toasted in cold beers brought by my dad and celebrated our success.
![IMG_0225[1]](https://oscarahellstrom.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/img_02251.jpg?w=960)
Here we are – three randomly gathered dads who managed to keep it together for 20165km. The people in the background have no clue what we’ve just done.
I write most of this text almost two weeks after the finish of the event. Partly because I’ve had other things to do (and in fairness because it’s taken quite a while for my hands to be able to operate a keyboard), but also because the sheer volume and strength of impressions takes some time to digest. I’ve never ridden anything this long before and I thought and said several times during the ride that it might be the longest ride I ever do in my life. So, at this point in time I’ve got nothing to compare with but I don’t think what we experienced is unique when you put three men through what we went through. I’ve chosen to describe the dark patches we had, the times we did things we can’t be proud of or might be unable to explain afterwards, things that others might even hold against us. But it wouldn’t be an accurate account of extreme endurance sport if I simply omitted it. Make no mistake. This isn’t easy.
Ian, Toni and I had so much fun and it was such a fantastic adventure. Reading all the comments and all the discussions that took place during the event and after the event enforces the good memories and make the bad ones fade away. They are both exceptionally strong endurance athletes and it was a pleasure to do this ride in their company.
Short Facts Section
My ride
105 hours total. 24 hours non-moving. Out of this about 6 hours is actual sleep, another couple of hours will have been spent on stopping for sleep and getting going again afterwards. The rest is eating, clothing adjustments, punctures etc. Apart from night 3 the lack of sleep wasn’t a major issue for me. I didn’t suffer from hallucinations or similar. Sure, I might have mistaken a few trees for mooses but I think that was just as much because I really wanted to see a moose.
Results
45 starters, 31 finishers, 15 DNF. 1/3 DNF is relatively low for an event of this character. As far as i know only one person abandoned after Östersund. In the second start group the weather was favourable ther whole time while the first group got lots of rain the first two days. The good weather from their day 3 onwards has ondoubtedly helped keep the DNF rate down.
Equipment? I rode my 1990’s Colnago Master like I’ve done this entire brevet season; Shimano Dura-Ace 7800 groupset, 32 spokes per wheel, SON dynamo front hub, Supernova lights front and rear, Apidura bags, mostly Rapha clothes (lots of merino), my 2010 Specialized S-works shoes. Tried and tested stuff that I trust. Everything worked.
Closing
Sverigetempot – Length of Sweden is truly spectacular and something I will carry with me for a long time. It is next held in 2020. Will I be there? Will I try to ride sub100? Will I bring a tent and a sleeping bag? Time will tell.

Complete.