PIC: Markus Moises (All rights reserved ATP)

All Tomorrow’s Parties are the quintessential artist-curated festivals – the British version is literally a jolly hipster theme park, originally based in an old Pontins holiday camp, complete with chalets and a quaint retro spirit.

It has since been staged in various corners of the world – the setting for the Icelandic version is a disused aircraft hangar in a former NATO base surrounded by lava fields. The vibe of the event is similarly minimal – aside from a few food stalls in the courtyard, there’s a distinctly no-frills feel around the main venue as well as being exceedingly non-corporate, the bars flogging barely chilled cans from slabs.

A short trot across the base, there’s a second smaller stage and a cinema/spoken word room curated by previous ATP headliners Mogwai, a few resident DJs playing into the small hours rather than a massive dance tent. However the lack of amenities can be forgiven if you also get to spend time exploring the phenomenal beauty of the surrounding countryside – and with the advent of cheaper, direct flights from Dublin, the Irish are flocking. With glaciers and geothermal springs (the famous Blue Lagoon is nearby) the environment is magical, and as it never gets truly dark in summer, the perpetual daylight brings an otherworldly feeling.

This year’s festival bill was curated by Scottish outfit Belle and Sebastian and was a real mixed bag, strong on hip hop heavyweights (Public Enemy and Run The Jewels), 90s noiseniks (Mudhoney, Drive Like Jehu, Bardo Pond) and epic instrumental acts like Godspeed You Black Emperor.

The opening night’s line-up was undoubtedly the strongest, Public Enemy, Iggy Pop and curators B&S themselves. Chuck D and Co are a seasoned festival act, and they absolutely Bring The Noise, with military men back-up dancers, scratch wizardry from DJ Lord and, of course, Flava Flav leaping about the place like a hyperactive toddler. On-point classics such as Don’t Believe the Hype and Fight the Power were a real rush but new single Man Plans God Laughs sounded just as intense.

PIC: Alvpeerz

Iggy Pop doesn’t change. Fast approaching 70, he’s still a bare-chested explosion of raw energy as he sinews across the stage, sucker punching us with a quick succession of killer hits: No Fun, I Wanna Be Your Dog, The Passenger, Lust For Life. At a risk of peaking too soon, he still had a few treats up his (non-existent) sleeve – the Stooges number 1969, the Bowie-and-Berlin era Nightclubbing and pop hit Real Wild Child. A living legend who doesn’t disappoint.

Headlining Belle and Sebastian were a change of pace but did their utmost to keep the crowd hopping with their gentle upbeat numbers, dancefloor-storming single The Party Line momentarily turned the murky black hangar into a charming indie disco. Other highlights were eminent experimental rockers Swans and the Faith No More-meets-Alice Cooper headbangers White Hills…. so for three days this summer, ATP was the epicentre of cool in the coolest place on earth.

The next ATP is in Wales in April as curated by comedian Stewart Lee.

www.atpfestival.com