Market in Thimphu

2014-08-15

One of the highlights of Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, was for me visiting the city weekend’s market and strolling through the stalls with groceries. When we arrived to the market, the guide explained to us that there are two parts to see there : the fruits and vegetable market and the souvenir market. I figured that the souvenir part was for tourists (even though Chencho insisted that locals would also go there to buy some Buddhist cult stuff). Anyway, I thought people who shop for groceries, are definitely going to be locals. If I hang out here,  I will get a glimpse into “normal” life of “normal” Bhutanese.

Lucky me, my fellow photographers went straight to the souvenir market part and I was free to dive into the vegetable market without any competition in sight. Let me share this experience with you!

These guys are selling rice. Nothing else. Negotiating the price is not common. Price is the same with every seller, real “market price” and it doesn’t depend on the client’s skin colour. That was good to know.

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Waiting for the client can be boring, so every seller finds his own strategy to fight off the sleep…

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Surfing on Facebook or counting the profits?

This woman is selling incenses and the ingredients for making them at home. The business didn’t seem to go well that day.

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It is not easy to resist the arms of Morpheus!

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The Bhutanese are nice to chat with (they all speak English to some extent) and they generally don’t mind to be photographed. It takes a small talk and a genuine smile to win their “yes”.

– Can I take a photo of you?

– What! A photo  of me?! (laughing)

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 A short conversation (overheard) №1

– Are you sure I’m not going to die from eating these mushrooms?

– You? Where you come from?

– German.

– Oh, I don’t know about you. I don’t die!

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– What else did I want to buy?

– Mum, don’t forget tomatoes!

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I kept bumping into this girl and every time she was eating something different. I had to warn her at last that the Bhutanese guys are short and if she eats a lot and grows up tall like me, it won’t be easy to find a boyfriend! She didn’t seem to care… A feminist I guess.

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By the way, after this shot I also wanted a banana. They looked a bit different from those that I tried in Europe. I loved the taste and there is no way I will be able to describe it in words. Just trust me, it was delicious.

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The Swiss are very present in Bhutan. As well as frugal innovations.

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 A short conversation (imagined) №2

 – Is this knife sharp enough?

– Don’t hurt yourself, mum!

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To finish this post, I’ll show you a photo that is not particularly good, but a friend of mine, Cathy has noticed that everything was beautiful on my blog. And I admit, out of vanity probably, I’m choosing the photos I like most. It probably makes Bhutan look like a fairy-tale.

To be fair, I’m posting a different photo, not so pleasing, but real.

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Some meters away from the official market, where you probably need to pay the rent to be able sell, there are some stalls in the street (legally installed or not, I can’t tell).  You can’t see well on the photo, but she’s there with her toddler, I imagine, the whole day. There are some pits around, some road work is going on. The goods she is selling are not Bhutanese, they look like some Chinese or Indian production. Once I even met someone selling woolen socks from a Russian factory!

Nothing is perfect, not even Bhutan, but I had a great time at the market in Thimphu and I hope that so did you!

 

Trashigang

I felt like going back in time and telling you about Trashigang, the easternmost district of Bhutan. According to our guide Chencho, this is the disctrict with the densest population. It used to be quite important route for trade betweeen Indian province of Assam (Assam tea anyone?) and Tibet.

It also houses the first Bhutanese university, Sherubtse college.

Some photo impressions :

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Trashigang has some bright colours.

 

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It has moments of solitude as well…DSC_0079DSC_0109DSC_0064

The journey continues direction Thimphu.

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Bumthang, land and people

I’m being very late with my posts. I have arrived to the capital now, but time flies so quickly.  I don’t often have Internet access, so please forgive me if I don’t answer you straight away.

So as promised I’m showing you my Bumthang 🙂

It is a region famous for buckwheat, remember? The buckwheat is loved by Siberians ! And by cows, obviously…

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Some views from the walk

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Not sure if you know what this plant is (I didn’t!). I let you guess…DSC_0106 DSC_0040 DSC_0042

Bumthang is also important for the Bhutanese for its religious sites, some of the oldest monasteries and temples are here.

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This woman is wearing an iron coat of 25 kg (I tried to put it on later, I wasn’t able to get it off the table), it is believed that if you do three rounds around the temple wearing it, the bad demons (and bad luck) will leave you. She was about 60 years old and she was literally running past me. Thus the quality of the photo is surrealistic.  I was not actually allowed to take pictures inside… But I would be happy to pay the fine for this one.

DSC_0173The city of Jakar, the main town of Bumthang. DSC_0269

My Italian friends will be glad to know that even in that tiny little town they can get their favourite dish.

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People of Bumthang :

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The cuisine

For breakfast at the farm-house (see my previous post) we had buckwheat pancakes with home-made wild strawberries jam… Njam-njam, as we say in Siberia.

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That was our dinner at the farm-house :

from the left to the right : red rice, buckwheat noodles with some spices, home-made white noodles with spices, (forest hand -picked) mushrooms in a form of a salad with spices,  chili with cheese(in the first pink bowl) and a couple of things I forgot…. SORRY!

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It was, of course, delicious! I will probably write a separate post about Bhutanese national dishes. As the Bumthang cuisine is not caracteristic for the whole Bhutan.

 

 

Days 5-9, Bumthang and Phobijkha

My dear friends,

I know some of you got worried that I have disappeared for such a long time (five or six days!).

I stayed in a farmhouse with a Bhutanese family of three generations for two days in the town called Chamkhar in Bumthang region in Central Bhutan. The other two days we spent in a family-run guest house in Phobijkha in Western Bhutan.

This was extraodinary experience! Too many words already for a photoblog… I’d better let you take a look at our hosts and their homes.

Family in Bumthang region, famous for its religious sites, buckwheat pancakes and beautiful mountains.

Sorry, some photos are blurry, that’s camera’s fault, not mine, just saying.

The house

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The garden

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The grandma (preparing goods for the sale at the market)

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The grandma is preparing a hot-stone bath for me and Silvia

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The daughters (only two, the third one I didn’t catch, but all members of the family are difficult to photograph)

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The last one is the mother of the boy, the only grandchild so far. She is a single mother. According to our guide, it is not a problem in modern Bhutan.Neither it is rare.

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The boy is watching Indian cartoons in Indian language. He is like many Bhutanese people multilingual, at home he speaks local language (not a dialect!), from TV and cartoons he is picking up Hindi, and  at school he will learn English and national language dzonghka.

The youngest member of the family

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He doesn’t speak any languages yet.

We really felt at home with this family, they were so warm-hearted and they went out of their way to introduce us to the local cuisine and local way of life in general. The boy got really attached to Silvia, who was playing with him in the evenings and he was almost crying when we were about to leave.

Bumthang is probably one of my preferred regions so far and I’m sure it is because of the family and the people we met and talked to in the streets or monasteries.

I don’t have time anymore at the moment, but in my next posts I will try to show you the highlights of Bumthang and I will write about the second experience of staying at a Bhutanese home.

Day 3. Modernity and tradition, East meets West

Today I want to write about an interesting observation, Silvia (my Spanish companion) and I made in Bhutan : the modern technology and the Western culture are present in Bhutan at every corner, but it seems to be in harmony with the local traditions and Buddhist culture.

Some illustrations : clothes

Our driver (on the left) and our guide are wearing t-shirts and a part of traditional dress for men, that looks like a skirt.

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The young men is wearing a traditional dress, the older one is wearing a polo-shirt and shorts, he is also reading news on his Lenovo smartphone.

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A bank vs. an old house

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Traditional craft (weaving) vs. a shop full of clothes

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As many public places in the West, this Buddhist monastery is highly concerned with the mobile phone use problem.

 

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And finally : teenage pupils ( future monks) watching wrestling on some Western TV-channel during the break! It made my day.

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By the way, asking what team someone supported during the World Cup is a good way to start a conversation with a Bhutanese man… They all watched it.

Too bad I didn’t watch it!!!  Who the hell is Messi?!

 

P.s. if you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask! In any language that I speak 😉

Day 2. The road to Trashigang

The lodge where we stayed for the first night was managed by one remarquable person, who was one in all : a receptionist, a cook, a waiter and a very enjoyable company for conversation. Let me introduce you to Bijay !

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The morning we left the lodge our guide told us that European tourists often compare Bhutan to Switzerland. Because of the landscape, you’d think. But not only. I hope in one of my later posts I will come back to this, for now I’ll simply let you enjoy the Bhutanese nature.

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The weather has changed several times during the day.  DSC_0461 DSC_0401

The climate in this part of the country is tropical, the day was much hotter than we expected.

 

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The road can be good in some places, but really bad in others. For Siberian standards, the road was good all the way 😉

At the moment there is a lot of construction work going on, they are making the road wider. Most of the workers are from India and Nepal, they are paid less than the Bhutanese would be. The goverment is saving a lot of money this way as the guide Ugyen Tashi is saying. On the other hand, he argues they are more experienced with construction works than locals. Both, men and women are doing this hard work. I’m adding some photos so that you get an idea.

 

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They live on the road in some shacks.

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Next time I will upload some happier photos. Those of the Bhutanese people!

Day 1. From Guwahati (India) to the port of Bhutan (Samdrup Jongkhar)

Tuesday morning I took a flight from New Delhi to Guwahati (Assam province), a town at the border to the Eastern Bhutan .

The traffic in India is crazy. Bhutanese guides prefer to hire an Indian driver rather than risk their lives.

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The city is left behind. On the horizon we already see the Bhutanese mountains.

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Do you know Assam tea? Here, right next to the tea plantations,  we are being checked  at the last check-post in India.

 

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At the end of the day we crossed the Bhutan border…Two or three times 🙂 The custom officers in Bhutan are quite relaxed when it comes to a girl with a camera!

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