All posts dated 2015 and prior have been deleted due to photo hosting issues at Photobucket.
Folder: 1″ Hem
It’s been a long time since I added to this blog. I pretty much continue do the sames things with my 900CPX as I’ve already shown in previous posts (hemming, belt loops, pin tucks, etc). Truth is, either cover stitch technique worked really well for me or I discontinued using it and I settled into a happy routine of when and how to use my 900CPX Cover Stitch machine.
In this post I’m trying something new: a hem folder. The 1″ hem folder to be exact. I’d seen a couple of videos of others using the hem folders an wondered if it might work for me on my biggest hemming projects tops.
I purchased my folder from a favorite Ebay seller Sharpsewing. It arrived promptly and in time for Christmas so DH insisted I put it under the tree. A few days elapsed before I could play with it and then write this post.
To see what makes this attachment so special, I looked carefully at both topside and the underside.
Topside has a small plate which guides the fabric over and underneath the larger plate.
I photoed the bottom side but that pic is too blurred to use. The underside has another small plate attached to the larger plate to keep the turned hem the exact same width.
Attachment to the machine was really simple.
The Janome has 2 screw holes just to the right of the throat plate and then 2 more further away. In order to place this foot so the fabric feeds under the foot 1″ from the folded edge, the folder was screwed into the first 2 holes. I had to provide my own screws, but I have a multitude that were included in other purchases. If this happens to be your first attachment purchase, do acquire the screws as well. The screws hold the folder to the machine. Mine fit in exactly. There are screws on the plate itself. They are not for attachment to the machine. When loosened, the distance between machine foot and the hem leading edge is lessened. I found I wanted that the default distance because it gave me room to work in when I needed to persuade the fabric not only through the guides but in matching the leading edges as well.
Machines always work best with muslin soI practiced first on a firm fabric.
BTW same fabric; different light.
It wasn’t a no brainer. I thought I could fold the leading edge and the rest would follow. Did not. I had to press up the entire hem; use tweezers to manipulate the fabric into the folder and then fiddle with it to make the leading, raw edges even which keeps the hem from rippling:
Ripling Hem Above
The first sample took little time. So I proceeded to test on my garment fabric.
I again folded and pressed the hem into place before persuading it to feed into the folder. My 8″ sample turned out very nice on the first try! I hemmed the sleeves of my garment next. Those hems also fed though without a hitch. I thought “Hey, this is going to be easy”. Then I fed the garment hem through. I’m here to tell you that crossing seams cause issues (I had a center back hem and I joined one of the sides before hemming.) OK seams cause issues on my serger, rolled hem and sewing machine too. I need to get used to it and develop procedure to keep my hems feeding evenly into the cover stitch. The rest of the long hem did not feed as well as the short pieces. The fold would not stay gripped around the guide which created ripples, a shallower hem and the need to rip and redo. I like ripping cover stitches bout as well as serger stitches. My personal experience is that cover stitching only rips when I don’t want it to. As soon as I think I need to remove it, the stitches bury in refuse to part from the fabric. IOW, removing those places which were an eye sore or not even caught in the stitching was far from quick and easy. I finished, satisfactorily and will share the finished garment tomorrow.
So first impression, the folder really isn’t helpful to me at the present time and my level of skill. I am assuming that the more I work with folder the better skilled and able to create perfect hems quickly I will become. I was definitely disappointed with having to prepress the hems. That’s a block of time I’d rather not spend. At least I didn’t have to glue the hems in place which is my go to for normal cover stitch hemming. Glued in place (Steam A Seam) the hem is unable to wiggle beneath the foot meaning the hem is entirely stitched and requires no re-doing. Thing is, I had hoped to completely eliminate the prep time and just sit and stitch.
In addition to needing experience and skill, I’m thinking that different fabrics may be more cooperative. My first test fabric was pretty stiff. It would not stay folded when exiting the hemmer if it was not prepressed. I was also troubled by the amount of effort needed to get the fabric feeding through the folder. I will be looking for ways to make that easier. (Note to self: light starch didn’t help.) The 2nd test and my final garment, was made on a soft, stretchy knit. Neither fabric is representative of the fabrics I normally sew.
Posted in Accessories, Folder 1" Hem
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Downturn Feller
I’ve had these feet for both my cover stitch and my sewing machines. Never could make them work. Then I found this Youtube from Gail Patrice:
Problem solved!!
Posted in Accessories, DownturnFeller
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2340CV Turning Corners
My 2340CV, like each new machine, requires a span of learning. IOW you will be seeing a few posts that duplicate earlier information but are specific to my learning the 3-needle 2340CV. This week, I continued to work on removing the work from the machine and also stitching angled turns.
Read some place that disengaging the looper made it easier to remove the work from the machine. That takes several extra steps: open door, reach into the dark left, feel around for the knob and pull it to release. Fortunately there are no vicious animals within because I did a bit of fumbling and even pulled on the wrong thing. Any animal would have attacked my hand. Removing the sewing like this still requires pulling a little thread above the tension guides and holding down 3 tension buttons while scooping and pulling the threads underneath the foot. Oh and then when that’s done, I’ve still got to close the looper, close the door and lower the pressure foot before I start sewing the next time. Guess who forgot one of more of those steps?
While this procedure worked, there has to be some easier way. (Why doesn’t lifting the pressure foot release the tension? Is that really such an expensive add on? I’m hoping it gets easier to pull the threads through the tension guides. They did on my Brother serger but who’s to say it’s the same thing for the cover stitch. I have to keep working at this because currently when I remove the work I’m either unthreading the machine or unintentionally causing raveling of the hem
I opted to use the 2340 to top stitch the pockets on my last pair of shorts. I should have rounded the sharp corner but then I would have missed this experience:
I stitched all the way up to the turn. Rotated the needles to their highest point; lifted the pressure foot; and pulled a little slack in the thread by using a small screw driver to swoop under the foot and capture the threads. Did not pull much, I swear. Just wanted enough so that when turned the work, well it would turn. Nope. Got long strings.
Had 2 pockets so tried something different the 2nd time.
This time, I rotated the needles to their highest point and then brought them about half way down. Lifted the pressure foot and turned the work. A little better, but not nice and sharp.
I tried to secure the pocket and hopefully improve the appearance of the corners by over stitching at the sewing machine.
Again, improved; probably no one will notice because the fabric and thread blends very well.
TBH, I wasn’t always successful with the 900CPX either. The easiest thing will be cutting the pocket without any angled turns. There are times when that is exactly what I want.
I was kind of frustrated. Even thought of setting the 900CPX back up and keeping the the 2340CV for only those times I really want 3 needle work. But then I thought, the 900CPX wasn’t all that easy for me either. For months I stitched nothing but hems and I found the unraveling issue with it as well. I’ve had the 2340 less than a month and already I’m pushing it to do something difficult. I will keep at it but I also note that there really are some advantages to the 900CPX chief of those being the ease of removing the work from the machine. When I bought the 2340, I didn’t think about threading a 3rd needle. That means threading 3 needles at the CV, 2 at the serger and 1 at the sewing machine. That’s a lot of needles and a lot of thread cones/spools.
Posted in 2340CV, Stitching Corners
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Qualifying my comments
I inspired a number of comments with my post yesterday. Love the comments but feel like maybe I was too negative?
I nearly always improve my opinion of anything once I gain greater knowledge of it and in the case of machines, develop good procedures. Please don’t take my opinions without a good grain of salt, because I’m probably already changing. For example, I’ve been working more at removing the work from the machine. And it’s gotten easier. I still don’t have a solution that makes me 100% happy and will keep trying. My initial disappointment with the size of the throat has lessened. I found I can roll up enough fabric to get anywhere within in a blouse which is usually where I’d like to place decorative pin tucks. And I’ve found another plus: The lines on the bed are perfect for most of the hem widths that I use. My Janome didn’t have any markings. Just saying, give the 2340cv a break; a little lee-way. I’m still learning and I really am glad to have both the 2-ndle and 3-ndle cover stitch machines. It’s a luxury I never dreamed possible.
Posted in 2340CV
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About the new 2340CV..
…so that happened when I was stitching drapes. I was using the cover stitch make a double row of stitching on all those long seams — side, hem, top channel. Long seams. Forever, long seams. One day, umm evening, I was just about at a quitting point when I realized the left needle had quit forming stitches. It was a very humid day and even in the basement, I was sweaty and hot; now frustrated. I did try a few things but quickly decided this long day needed to end. I put things away and went upstairs. The few minutes I spent trying to fix the 900CPX convinced me it was broken. After dinner and while watching TV, I started checking the Internet to see what was available and the cost range. Well, Allbrands had the Brother 2340CV for $320. That was astonishing. When I bought my 900CPX 5 years ago for over $500, it was the cheapest machine on the market. But I didn’t pull the trigger on the 2340. Nope I went back downstairs the next day and, having had time to calm down along with thinking a bit and developing a Plan B, I was ready. I solved the 900CPX’s problem in about 5 minutes. The left needle was slightly bent. Not enough I could see it, but enough that stitches were not forming.
I finished the drapes. Went onto other projects, but thoughts of the 2340CV kept percolating in my thoughts. After several years of working with the 900 and discovering so many things it could do, I was beginning to wish I had purchased the 3-needle version. Not enough to check prices, you understand, but enough that now seeing a 3-needle CS for so low a price, I wanted it. Allbrands had it to me in about 3 days.
I’ve been playing with it just enough now to share some early opinions.
First off, yes indeed the 3-needle hem is lovely; and fortunately I didn’t experience the issues that a lot of people on the net talked about. Perhaps it was because of my previous experience with the 900; maybe it’s because I didn’t read about their issues until after I worked with my 2340cv. Whatever, sews nicely; fairly quiet IMO, not much problem threading (see removing from the machine later). Lovely machine.
Now for the downside:
I will echo that the Owner’s Manual is hardly worth the paper printed on but then that is typical of so many. Usually you get 50 pages with 2 pages for each language each tell you to use common sense. You have to buy a TOL to get a good manual. (My Brother Dream came with a fantastic manual; all in one language.)
Pulling/removing the work from the machine is a pain. I am right-handed. I cannot both press down on the 4 tension release buttons on the machine and swoop a tool underneath the foot. I finally convinced my left hand it could hold the tension buttons down. So to release the work from the machine, I cross my arms in front of me and then twist to one side to make sure my tool is sweeping beneath the foot. I do hope in time I will discover an easier way. Surely, what I did is not the easiest way but you know what, that’s exactly what I saw on the Internet.
The placement of the Brother pressure foot lifter bothers me.
It is on the right hand side. Same as the Brother serger I use exclusively for rolled hems. I thought I would adapt to its position. But I’ve had the rolled hem serger for almost 2 years and I am still fumbling when I want to lift the foot. I wonder why they made this change. My TOL Brother Dream, has the lift in the traditional place–right where my left hand fingers are trained to flip it up; as did my Viking Ruby and the now deceased Huskylock S25. IOW, I do not like this no matter how logical it may seem to anyone else.
I was terribly disappointed in the size of the throat.
Any hem wider than 1.5″ is going to be a struggle. Most of the decorative stitching I do and for which I wanted the 2340, is impossible or at least very, very limited.
I also was disappointed to realize there is no place to attach accessories. I know that a big expensive package of accessories especially for this machine is available. Not sure they were worth the cost or how they would attach, I started searching the net. What I found was thumbs down almost across the world on buying that package. Either the accessories are ineffective or the prep work takes longer than just doing it at the sewing machine; and so expensive. My gosh I could buy all the generics I wanted and have a couple hundred dollars still in my bank account for fabric. The inability to attach accessories is doubly disappointing because I’m used to quickly screwing on the 900’s attachments and zipping through hems and belt loops. ( Although I do some prep on the hems. I press and affix Steam-A-Seam) Some users have successfully taped generic accessories to their CV. I am wondering if it would be possible to have holes drilled in the bed? Holes like my 900 has to hold the plate and some accessories? Anybody know?
Well, I do like how it stitches. And even though I won’t be able to use the decorative stitches as much as I wanted, I do like the 3 needle and the options to have either 3mm or 6mm wide stitching. Definitely am keeping this–Love Allbrands but they have a very severe return policy that includes penalties and restocking fees. So I am keeping this CS AND I am keeping the 900CPX. Currently considering what size table to buy and more importantly where to put it. I think, like the rolled hem serger, having the 900CPX permanently set up and easy to access will mean that I use it frequently. Thinking the 900CPX will be my permanent belt-loop maker. Until I want pin tucks.
Posted in 2340CV
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Circular Lace Insets/Applique
Although it’s been over a year since I posted to this blog, I use my cover stitch machine frequently. I consider this blog a roaring success because I went from using my cover stitch every 3 or 4 months to nearly every project. I’ve found it the perfect near-perfect substitute for any twin needle application. This latest project, the Slinky TRT, produced a new use: applying circular lace inserts.
I love my embroidery machine too. I started this project with an inspiration or two
hunted through my personal collection of embroidery files until I found elements
that would combine nicely into my desired circular lace patch/applique/inset
Click the pic for more detail on my embroidery process
Once my patches were ready, I set up the cover stitch machine with black serger thread in both needles and the looper. Thinking it would be easier to go around the curves, I set the stitch length to 2 and differential to 1. No other CS devices are needed i.e. the plate isn’t necessary or anything that fits to it.
I marked both my sleeve and lace with cross hairs using chalk. I spritzed the back of the lace with a little stencil glue, aligned the cross hairs and hand pressed the lace into place on my sleeve. Although the glue is pretty secure, I slipped a couple of pins in to hold it in place just in case I became a little over zealous and managed to knock things about.
I repeated the alignment process for the other sleeve and went back to the cover stitch. I stitched at the CS aligning my lace edge with the foot edge
This is the first time I’ve used my CS in this fashion and I goofed. I had the right needle dropping just to the outside of the lace. Worked beautifully until I was ready to trim away the fabric beneath when I discovered that not only were the lace appliques secured with only 1 thread, but the edge was bouncing up almost 1/4″. I didn’t remove the first round of stitching. Umm, I’m too lazy for that. I simply stitched around each applique a second making sure that the right needle dropped inside of the lace. Consequently when looking at the back of the project, there’s a lot of thread.
I didn’t let that slow me down. I separated the applique and the fabric just enough so I could snip the fabric
And then trimmed all the excess
Repeat on 2nd sleeve before finishing the garment.
I was hoping that my lace appliques/patches/inserts would show up a little more than they did
I’m not unhappy but next time I will make the appliques large enough to be easily seen.
There’s a lot of thread on the backside. Partially from CS’ing twice around the applique but also my settings are not optimal. The stitches aren’t as beautifully formed as usual. My fault for not having made a test applique sample. It’s something I will work on the next time.
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What’s in the CookBook
Instruction Page
Need to collect samples next time.
Posted in Embellishments, Lace Applique
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PICS? Ribbon Weaving
This is a technique I first saw being used with flat-locking at the serger. I was never able to try it out. My first serger would not flat lock. The 2nd would, but the flat locking was so narrow I couldn’t run a ribbon through it. I haven’t tried flat locking with the HV S21 and after this project, I never will. The CS makes the best flat locking with the least effort.
Ribbon weaving at the CS (or serger) is a lovely technique of creating ladders with the stitching and then weaving ribbons through the ladders. The trick is to cover stitch on the wrong side of your fabric.
I tested several different threads in my looper and different stitch lengths as well as adjusting the differential feed. The goal was to avoid tunneling while creating a variety of ladder samples to test for my next project Ribbon Weaving.
I didn’t want to use a thread or yarn that I would struggle with. One of my test threads was a soft yarn similar to the chain produced at the serger. It turned out to be a better selection for pin tucking then ribbon weaving as it drew the fabric together sharply.
There’s really a lot of choices.
Ribbon can be woven through every other ladder, every third, fourth, etc. The CS creates a ladder of two threads. Ribbon can be woven under both those threads or only one.
For my project I chose to use a size 20 cordonnet in a bright green. I have two balls of this cordonnet. I remember buying it but not why. While I was experimenting I decided upon the orange-yellow ribbon (at the top of the above sample) and this cordonnet (not the thread the ribbon is woven through in the sample) because I liked the orange-yellow against the bright orange of my fabric and I liked the bright green against the orange-yellow. Besides, it was time this cordonnet made it into a project of some kind.
The cordonnet flows through the machine easily. I was able to tie it on and draw through but had to cut the knot just before the looper’s eye and manually thread the eye. For most of the stitching, the cordonnet unwound from the ball smoothly. However at one point it started getting caught. In future uses, I’d probably want to manually unwind the cordonnet.
I wanted to try ribbon weaving at the CS but I didn’t want to affect the stretch or fit of my next project, a knit tank top. I chose to make 3 rows of ribbon weaving in a diagonal across the tank top about 1″ apart. I wove the ribbon every 7th ladder because while stitching, the cordonnet did not feed evenly in 2 places, each exactly 7 ladders long.
Finished Weaving
Finished garment is shared at sdBevOttobreDesign (scroll down when you get there).
Now honest opinion about Ribbon Weaving. It’s doubtful I’d do this again. Ribbon weaving through flat locking is harder then it sounds. “They” tell you to keep the ribbon flat and feeding evenly. No such luck here. I spent more time carefully lining up my needle and untwisting ribbon than making the whole dang garment. I know I had the ribbon smooth from needle to previous ladder and still the ribbon twisted when drawn through. I used a 1/8″ ribbon and could have much more easily fed this through at the SM using a blanket stitch. At the SM I could have used wider ribbons and more decorative stitches. But this is a technique I had to try, at least once.
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Whats In the CookBook
Summary of technique and samples.
Posted in Embellishments
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PIS? Bias and Tape Holders
As I struggled with getting to know my binders, I realized (partly from comments left) that I needed to reduce the drag happening to my bindings. I bought this for $35:
It’s sold by SharpSewing on Ebay. I should have looked a little further or waited for comments. There are other holders available for less and even free ideas such as one shared by Skye in her comment on 8/12/2013. To see her ingenious solution you’ll have to go to Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sewingskye/6772636589/
I did need a little help with assembly. Once done, I have an excellent professional tool that does the job nicely. The binding feeds from the Bias and Tape Holder into the ribbon guide of the binder and then on into the machine:
The two pictures are out of proportion. The Holder is much larger than shown above.
The front edge of my table is beveled and would not allow the clamp to attach properly. I had to situate the Holder on the right, table-edge.
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Whats In the CookBook
The Sellers handout concerning the device. On the reverse are the assembly instructions.
Posted in Accessories
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PICS? CS Project: Kitchen Curtains.
We needed new window covering for the kitchen. I’ve replaced the mini blinds 3 times in the last 6 years. I like mini blinds but they’ve fallen out of fashion. I can’t find the right sizes for my windows unless I special order them. Which I started to do, but DH asked for curtains. We’re an odd family. DH assumes total control and possession of the kitchen. This was really wonderful when I was working. I actually promised to help more when I retired. But beyond sweeping and mopping, I prefer to let him continue kitchen operations. So when he expressed a distinct preference including a grease cleaning argument, I decided to make curtains.
I found a fabulous duck print at Hancocks. I’m not sure the fiber content. I assumed it was cotton. It feels like cotton. But when I ironed, it resisted the steaming. I suspect it may actually be an outdoor fabric. But I don’t care. It handled beautifully and I love the print. to me it’s a combination of Jacobean, Oriental and modern flavors in bright colors and bold shapes. I’ll show it a little later. I like to share the fabric I’m using early in my post because it does affect how the sewing progresses.
Knowing that curtains are really a bunch of long hems, I decided to cover stitch. Unfortunately the hems vary in widths. 4″ at the top, 1″ at the sides and 3″ hems. The JHG makes hems up to 1-3/4″ wide. I could use the JHG for the side hems, but I’m going to have to use a different technique for the top and bottom. I read a terrific hint from LindaT made in the comments section of my August 7 post. Linda stated that to control the fabric during hemming, she stitched with water soluble thread in the bobbin. I have a huge cone of water-soluble thread. I use it for placement and stabilizing at the embroidery machine. I really go through the WST, seems like I purchase a cone from SewThankful every year or so. I have the cone and the thread is subject to humidity levels so I use it whenever possible. I like this new idea. I realized it would work perfectly with the varying hem widths and wanted to try it immediately. I loaded WST in both the bobbin and the needle and then prepressed my hems at the desired widths. Just to keep from confusing myself, I did all the side hems first, then the bottom hems and finally the top hems. That way I was doing all the 1″, then all the 3″ and finally all the 4″ hems instead of switching between widths. It’s not necessary. Each panel (I made 4) could be completely finished before starting the next. I like working this way because it helps minimize mistakes.
Before starting to stitch I offset my edges just slightly, about 1/16 of an inch
I offset at both ends hoping that the underside of the hem will never be visible from the front. It does mean that I need to ease slightly.
Long hems like this tend to slip and I finish with uneven edges. I have the even feed (walking foot) for my Designer Ruby but I hate to use it. I have to remove the shank and angle the foot; generally fool around to get it into position. I bought the foot and played with it for about an hour to become familiar before actual use. The first time I had a real use, I worked about 15 minutes trying to get the foot on the SM. Unsuccessful at installing the foot, I put it back in my tool box and chose something else. One of the things I really like about my SM is how easy it is to switch feet. I switch out feet more often than I did with any other machine. But man oh man, this walking foot is a pain in my tush. I chose to use the Rotary Even Feed foot which is actually a Janome foot but fits on my machine.
I love this foot. I call it “My Personal Sherman Tank”. I stripped the hole on the side which is used to add guides. But I rarely used the guides. I use it just like this, in place of a walking foot. I’m stitching along about 1/8″ along the selvage and completely ignoring the fringe. When the WST seam is finished, turn the fabric over and put it under the CS clear foot. I used the WST stitching as a guide at the CS (just like Linda).
Repeat for all 4 panels on all 4 sides of each panel. Finish with a spritz of water to dissolve the WST and a final pressing. Easy peasy.
I used the plastic groments…
… which are so popular these days. I’m using more red in my home decor. This house had red kitchen carpet. I don’t like carpet in the kitchen but I liked the red and continue to use it. The groments were ease to install. I wasn’t sure how far apart they should be. I placed one at each end and one in the center. Decided that wasn’t enough and placed two more on either side of center. Mine ended up being 5-1/4″ apart which I think is too close. Doesn’t really hurt anything except I didn’t have enough for all 4 panels. When we hung the curtains, only 3 panels went up.
Like every home dec project for an elderly house, this one took longer than expected. I waited until I could make the trip to Sioux Falls. I’m never 100% sure that what I see on the monitor is what I will recieve. Not necessarily the vendors fault, although there are times when they could give better descriptions. No sometimes I look through rose-colored glasses and see what I want to see. So I waited to start the project until I could go shopping and be sure I was purchasing the fabric that I wanted vs the fabric I envisioned. I also purchased the curtain rods at that time. Mini-blinds came down revealing that the window casing needed some work. Not extensive, but it needed cleaning, a little sanding and then a couple of coats of polyurethane. One spot still needs another coat but it will do until the first time I wash these curtains. DH was totally perplexed that he hung double curtain rods, but only one curtain. He looked surprised and disbelieving when I explained I did that for him. This time I want only one curtain. In the future I may want curtains with glass curtains or even Pricilla curtains which will require 2 rods. By hanging a double rod now, he only needs to install the rods once. He still doesn’t get it.
I did like this hemming technique. I probably won’t use the WST again with this type fabric. Usually, duck is very cooperative. The JHG would have done a brilliant job on duck if my hems had been between 5/8″ and 1-3/4″. But since I also had hems 3″ and 4″ I needed an alternative and chose to use the same method on all 4 sides. Using the WST would have been an excellent solution for the fabric used in my first binding project, the turquoise tank top. I think what is important here having a variety of techniques. An arsenal of solutions. So that when I have problems, I have several options. Oh and what’s really important here, is the finished gorgeous curtains.
You’ve got to see how beautiful the final result is. Please ignore the clutter and mess. Yes we really live like this. DH cleans the kitchen once a day. Whether it needs it or not.
It’s HIS kitchen and he loves it this way.
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Whats In the CookBook
I made a page for this because it is a new to me hemming technique.
Page 13 . Hemming with WST
Posted in Hemming
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The 900CPX Cookbook 