A black jacket was a key piece missing from my wardrobe. When it came to making an outfit for Frocktails I decided it was about time I changed that.
The pattern I used was Burda 111. From the moment I first saw this pattern I wanted to make it. I was drawn to the simplistic style of this jacket: collarless, zippered, unlined with patch pockets. Before committing to my good fabric which was a sturdy brushed cotton from my stash I made a toile of the jacket which was my Striped jacket to test out the fit and to give me practice on making a zipped jacket as I hadn’t made one before. The link above is only for version 111. There is another version of the pattern 110 which is lined with a collar and pocket flaps. The pattern pieces for 110 are slightly longer than 111. In both versions I made I used the length of 110 as I had both styles in my printed pattern.


I always knew my black version was going to be slightly different to my striped version. My intention was to adjust the length as I like longer jackets to cover my lower back when I sit, I’m paranoid I’ll get a chill in my lower back if it isn’t covered. If you haven’t read the adventures I had making my first version I didn’t realise on Burda patterns seam allowance wasn’t included on the pattern pieces until after I cut out all my pieces. I had cut out the largest size and my fabric had a slight stretch to it so I got away with it luckily. My pattern was a PDF which I had printed on A0 sheets of paper. On the print out using my french curve and a flexible gridded ruler I drew in the seam allowance for each piece. I then went over the lines with a highlighter so I could see the lines I was tracing out when I placed trace and toile over it to trace out my patterns. Normally I used a coloured pen when I trace out my patterns but I made the mistake of using a black pen which made it difficult to see if I had traced over a line or not. Normally patterns have a line indicating where to shorten or lengthen a pattern. There were no markings on this pattern so I just drew in extra at the bottom of the pattern pieces. Initially I did 6″ but then increased it to 7″.
After I had traced out the new pattern on the centre back I decided to do a round upper back adjustment. When I first starting writing this I realised I’d forgotten to write down how much I added so I went back and measured my altered pattern piece finding 1″ was sadded in.
I actually ran out of pins as the pieces were so long when I was cutting the fabric out. I did minimal pinning just to hold them in place until I could reuse some pins from pieces cut out. When I cut out each piece I reverted back to my old ways and added in extra seam allowance around each piece as I cut it, probably about ½” around each piece. I had about 4 or 5 metres of fabric and only ended up with about 75cm left over. I was able to make continuous bias binding with part of the leftover scrap to use as a hem facing around sleeves and bottom of the jacket.
The original pattern has the pockets about 1.5″ up from the bottom. This time I actually marked the pocket placement when tracing out the pattern. As I was making the jacket longer I decided to lower the pocket placement and used the same guide of about 1.5″ from the bottom. I attached the pockets but once the sleeves were inserted and I tried the jacket on I felt the pockets were too low so I unpicked them and moved them up to about 4.5″ from the bottom. The top of the pockets ended up at the base of the original placement. They were lower but not too low.
For the zipper I cheated this time and didn’t shorten it. I used a 30″ coil zipper. I had a few lengths of zipper and just picked the one which fitted the best without having to alter it. When it came to the interfacing the facing around the neckline and front panels I used the same interfacing as my first jacket. I was just able to squeeze my pieces on to the remainder I had left.
When I traced out the neck facing I drew in the seam allowance and cut it slightly bigger as I was cutting it out. The jacket has 2 panels either side at the front, 2 panels at the back and 2 panels for each sleeve. Because I added a little bit extra to everyone one of those pattern pieces when it came to attaching the neck facing it didn’t fit. Perhaps I should have redrafted the neck facing but I didn’t have enough interfacing. I matched up the centre back of the jacket with the centre of the neck facing and then matched up the front the long panels of the facing with fronts of the jacket. I then pinched in the top of the jacket to fit within the neck facing. Once the facing was sewn on it gave the jacket like a pleated look around the neckline.
Overall I am super happy with this jacket. My first jacket was done over 3 days whereas this one was done over weeks, I was only working on it on weekends when I had time. We had a long weekend at the start of October and my sewing mission for that weekend was to finish the jacket which I did. Normally I don’t wear jackets open as they get caught on the crutch when I walk. For the majority of the day that I wore this to Frocktails and afterwards I had it open without any issues. I was aiming to make a stylish black jacket and I was able to do so.
Cassiy






































