Har Har Mahadeva! (Hail, hail the Great Lord Shiva!)

This powerful mantra (or chant) carries spiritual weight, symbolizing surrender to Lord Shiva’s divine power and his role in creation, preservation, and destruction. It’s both a praise and call to connect with Lord Shiva’s cosmic energy. It symbolizes devotion to the Lord as the destroyer of worldly attachments and the granter of spiritual freedom. And this powerful mantra is deeply woven into the fabric of two of India’s holiest cities which are very special to the Lord – Varanasi and Prayagraj in the North Indian State of Uttar Pradesh.

Shiv Tandav Stotram – Lord Shiva’s Powerful Stotram written by Ravana

 

The holy river Ganga, which comes down from the Great Himalayas, flows through Varanasi and blesses Prayagraj at the Triveni Sangam – the confluence of three holy rivers: Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati – tying both cities together. The sacred waters purify the soul.

Considered the spiritual capital of India, Varanasi (also known as Kashi or Banaras) is the eternal city of Lord Shiva. It’s believed that the Lord founded the city and resides there as its guardian deity. “Har Har Mahadeva” is chanted incessantly here—during daily rituals, along the ghats (steps leading down to the river banks), and especially during Maha Shivaratri, when the city transforms into a vibrant celebration of Lord Shiva’s glory. The phrase reverberates as devotees bathe in the Ganga, offer water to the Shiva lingam, and seek salvation.

During pooja and aartis (ritual and prayer ceremonies) at temples, and festivals and pilgrimages dedicated to Lord Shiva and his river Ganga, the chant unites millions, creating an electrifying atmosphere of faith.

In Varanasi, “Har Har Mahadeva” is more than a chant—it’s a way of life. The city’s identity is inseparable from Lord Shiva, with legends saying that he protects it from destruction. It is believed that dying in Varanasi grants liberation, as Lord Shiva himself whispers the Taraka mantra into the soul’s ear.

While Prayagraj (formerly called Allahabad) is more prominently associated with the Sangam and Lord Vishnu (as a preserver), Lord Shiva’s presence is felt strongly due to his universal reverence in Hinduism. Devotees worship the deities with ‘Om Namah Shivay’ (I bow to Lord Shiva) and ‘Om Namo Bhagvate Vasudevaya’ (I bow to Lord Vishnu)

The chant “Har Har Mahadeva” echoes during the Kumbh Mela when millions of devotees and holy men, including Naga Sadhus (ascetics devoted to Lord Shiva), take a holy dip in the Sangam to wash away sins—an act aligned with Lord Shiva’s role as the destroyer of ignorance and impurities. The Sadhus, often smeared with ash and carrying tridents (symbols of Lord Shiva), chant “Har Har Mahadeva” as a war cry of devotion, invoking his blessings for liberation (moksha).

Kumbh Mela

Triveni Sangam is a major pilgrimage site during Kumbh Mela, one of the largest and most significant religious gatherings in the world. It’s a monumental Hindu pilgrimage rooted in mythology, spirituality, and tradition. Held every 12 years, it rotates among four sacred cities in India: Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik. The Kumbh Mela in Prayagraj, however, is considered the most revered due to its association with the Triveni Sangam.

Origins and Mythology

Kumbh Mela traces its roots to Hindu mythology, specifically the Samudra Manthan (churning of the ocean) episode. Devas (gods) and Asuras (demons) churned the ocean to obtain amrita (the nectar of immortality). When the kumbh (pot) of nectar emerged, a fierce battle ensued. Lord Vishnu, in his Mohini avatar, took the pot, but during the struggle, drops of amrita fell at four locations—Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik—sanctifying these sites. Kumbh Mela commemorates this event, with its timing determined by astrological alignments, particularly Jupiter’s position, which takes 12 years to orbit around the Sun.

The date and year of the Kumbh Mela is based on astrological calculations and observations of the movement of celestial bodies.

There are four main types of Kumbh Melas: Kumbh Mela, Maha Kumbh Mela, Ardh Kumbh Mela and Magh Mela.

• Kumbh Mela is held every 3 years, rotating among the four locations. This ensures each site hosts it once every 12 years.
• Maha Kumbh Mela is a grand and massive celebration pilgrimage held every 12 years (or precisely every 144 years when counting 12 cycles of the 12-year Kumbh, though the 12-year cycle is more commonly observed.). Both the 12-year Purna (or Full) Kumbh and the once-in-144 years-Maha Kumbh are exclusively held in Prayagraj. The latter being extremely rare, is even more special. Millions of people celebrated this significant “special” event in 2025. Prior to this year, it took place in 1860.
• Ardh (Half) Kumbh Mela is celebrated every 6 years and is held only in Prayagraj and Haridwar.
• Magh Mela or Mini Kumbh is held every year during the Hindu month of Magh (January – February, and is exclusively in Prayagraj. It’s smaller in scale, but when it coincides with the 12-year Kumbh cycle in Prayagraj, it upgrades to a full Kumbh or Maha Kumbh.

In Haridwar, Nashik, and Ujjain, the 12-year Kumbh is often simply called “Kumbh Mela,” but locals might refer to it as “Purna Kumbh” to emphasize its full-cycle importance compared to the Ardh Kumbh. Similarly, in Prayagraj, the 12-year Kumbh is sometimes casually called “Purna Kumbh” by locals, but when it’s a Maka Kumbh like 2025, that term takes precedence.

 

Locations

During Kumbh Mela, pilgrims take a holy dip in the sacred rivers at the banks of the four ancient temple cities:

• Haridwar, on the banks of the Ganga River in Uttarakhand, also known as Devbhoomi (the Land of Gods)
• Ujjain, on the banks of the Shipra River in Madhya Pradesh
• Nashik, on the banks of the Godavari River in Maharashtra and
• Prayagraj, on the banks of the confluence of three rivers (Triveni Sangam) Ganga, Yamuna & Saraswati in Uttar Pradesh. Both the Kumbh and Maha Kumbh are grandly organized here.

 

Selection of locations

Selection of the location for Kumbh Mela is decided by holy men and astrologers together. They observe the positions of two key planets in Hindu astrology—Jupiter (Guru) and the Sun (Surya)—to reach a decision. Jupiter is referred to as “Guru” because he is considered the teacher of the gods, and the Sun is regarded as the most prominent planet in Hindu astrology.

The site of each Kumbh Mela is decided by the astrological alignment of Sun, Moon and Jupiter.

• Haridwar, when Jupiter is in Aquarius (Kumbha Rashi) and Sun is in Aries (Mesha Rashi) around April.
• Ujjain, when Jupiter is in Leo (Simha Rashi) and Sun is in Aries around April – May.
• Nashik, when both Sun and Jupiter are in Leo (Simha Rashi) around August -September.
• Prayagraj, when Jupiter is in Aries or Taurus (Vrishabha Rashi), and Sun and Moon are in Capricorn (Makara Rashi) typically January – February.

 

Significance

Spiritual Cleansing: Bathing in the Sangam during the Kumbh Mela is believed to wash away sins across lifetimes.

Astrological Alignment: The event coincides with cosmic configurations said to amplify its sanctity, making it a rare opportunity for spiritual elevation.

Unity in Diversity: It draws people across castes, classes, and regions, embodying a collective quest for transcendence.

Scale and Setting

In Prayagraj, the focal point is the Sangam Nak (or Nose) – the peninsular sandbank at the meeting point of the Ganga and Yamuna, where temporary tent cities sprawl across the riverbanks, transforming the area into a bustling hub of spirituality.

Millions participate in the spiritual celebration.

The Kumbh Mela 2013 in Prayagraj saw an attendance of over 120 million pilgrims. The Mela typically lasts 6-8 weeks, with key bathing dates drawing the largest crowds.

 

Key Features

1. Naga Sadhus

Dipping in the river waters with a prayer, is the central ritual of the Kumbh Melas for all pilgrims. By immersing oneself in the holy waters, one can cleanse themselves of all sins, liberate both themselves and their ancestors from the cycle of rebirth, and ultimately attain Moksha, or spiritual liberation.

In addition to the bathing ritual, pilgrims also engage in worship along the banks of the sacred river and actively participate in enlightening discourses led by various sadhus and saints and members of various Akharas (religious orders).

‘Akhara’ typically refers to a place where wrestlers fight. In religious context, it refers to a group of sadhus and saints skilled in weaponry. Akharas are considered symbols of religiosity and spiritual practice in Hinduism. They were established by Adi Shankaracharya to protect Hinduism. Initially, there were only 4 Akharas. Today, there are 13 recognized Akharas. These are divided into 3 categories: Shaiva (followers of Lord Shiva), Vaishnava (followers of Lord Vishnu), and Udasin (followers of Guru Nanak).

Notable among the holy men are the naked, ash-smeared warrior-ascetics devoted to Lord Shiva – the famous Naga Sadhus, who have ancient ties to the Rig Veda and make their dramatic appearances at Kumbh Melas.

Naga Sadhus are not just spiritual sadhus but also mighty warriors trained in martial arts and weaponry such as swords, tridents, etc. for the sole purpose of protecting Hindu temples and sacred sites.

These mysterious warrior-ascetics, though fierce in appearance, are very gentle. They reside in the Himalayas, totally detached from the material world. They have been true saviours of Hindu Dharma in Indian history, hence central to the Kumbh Melas.

2. Shahi Snan (Royal Bathing)

While it is considered sacred to take a dip in the holy waters throughout the Kumbh Mela, beginning from the auspicious occasion of Paush Purnima (Full Moon Day in the month of Paush), there are specific dates that hold special significance. These dates witness magnificent processions featuring saints, their disciples, and members of various Akharas (religious orders).

Traditionally, on Amavasya (New Moon day) – the most cherished day for bathing – the pilgrims welcome and wait for the 13 sadhu akharas to bathe first in the grand ritual known as ‘Shahi Snan’ (Royal Bath) or ‘Amrit Snan’ (Nectar Bath), also referred to as ‘Rajyogi Snan’ marking the commencement of the Kumbh Mela. Rajyogi Snan stands as the central highlight of the Kumbh Mela and represents the pinnacle of the celebration.

It is the most iconic ritual, which is marked by a celebratory processional march, with banners, flags, elephants, horses and musicians along with the naked or scantily clad monks, some smeared with bhasma (ashes).

These monastic institutions come from different parts of India, and have a particular emblem symbol and deity.

Large crowds gather in reverence and cheer for this procession of monks led by Naga Sadhus. Clad in marigold garlands, wielding tridents, and chanting “Har Har Mahadeva,” they plunge into the icy waters. Once these monks have taken the dip, the festival day opens for public bathing.

3. Spiritual Atmosphere

The air hums with chants, bells, and conch shells. Sadhus, saints, and pilgrims from various sects—Shaivites, Vaishnavites, and others—converge to meditate, preach, and perform rituals. Makeshift akharas (camps of ascetic orders) dot the landscape, where gurus deliver discourses on scriptures like the Vedas and Upanishads.

4. Temporary City

The government erects a vast infrastructure – roads, bridges, hospitals, and sanitation – turning the floodplains of Ganga and Yamuna rivers into a vast, temporary pilgrimage site, almost a functioning metropolis.

5. Cultural Spectacle

The Kumbh Mela has been recognised as part of Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. Beyond religion, it’s a vibrant tapestry of India’s diversity—folk music, dance, and food stalls mingle with the aroma of incense and the sight of saffron-robed pilgrims.

 

Experience

Imagine standing at the Sangam at dawn: the sky streaked with orange, the water shimmering with light reflections and gentle ripples, and a sea of humanity chanting “Har Har Mahadeva.” Sadhus sprint toward the river, their dreadlocks flying, while families wade in quietly, and chanting prayers. Smoke from havans (fire rituals) curls upward, blending with the sound of bhajans. It’s chaotic yet serene—a microcosm of life’s dualities, presided over by Lord Shiva’s cosmic presence.

Those returning from the Kumbh Mela are received with respect in their villages and honoured by society. The sacred water carried by them for those who could not make the pilgrimage becomes their link to the holy event.

The Kumbh Mela isn’t just an event; it’s a living testament to faith, resilience, and the eternal pull of the divine.

Thanks to social media, the entire world witnessed the mind-blowing proportions of the recently concluded 45-day spectacular Maha Kumbh Mela and got an insight into this collective act of religious faith.

 

 

MAHA KUMBH 2025

 

Held at the Triveni Sangam from 13 January to 26 February 2025, Maha Kumbh Mela 2025 became the largest peaceful religious congregation ever and an unprecedented subject of study for modern management professionals, planning, and policy experts.

Image credit: https://www.narendramodi.in

The total count of pilgrims, over the period of 45 days, crossed 660 million (66 crore), making it the world’s largest, celebrated and revered spiritual gatherings of its kind. That’s close to twice the entire population of the United States of America!

More than the entire population of the European Union was at the Maha Kumbh site for a holy dip in the Sangam waters!

The count was estimated using Artificial Intelligence (AI) with maybe +/- 5% error. Some 550 AI cameras were deployed across the Mela grounds, ghats, and entry-exit points to provide real-time updates on the number of devotees. The technology uses object detection technique to detect human heads within an area in a given period of time.

The world watched in amazement at the daily gathering of millions of pilgrims, who immersed themselves in ritual baths, prayers, and spiritual discourse at the banks of the confluence of rivers. A huge sea of humanity bustling with religious and spiritual fervour, faces radiating immense joy and satisfaction after the holy dip.

View from Space…

Image credit: ISRO

Image credit: International Space Station (ISS)

Ascetics, saints, elders, children, women and men of all ages and from all walks of life and from all corners of the country and the world participated in this spiritual and cultural festival.

Image credit: https://www.narendramodi.in

The pilgrims, rich or poor, young or old, from villages or cities, from India or abroad, from the East or the West, from the North or the South, irrespective of caste, creed and ideology, found a way to converge at the Sangam for a common purpose.

The Maha Kumbh Mela represented India’s rich cultural heritage, spiritual unity and the power of faith and belief in Sanatana Dharma. The sacred water brought back by pilgrims became a source of spiritual bliss for millions, who could not reach Prayagraj but were also deeply and emotionally connected to the monumental event.

 

Maha Kumbh Snan (Bathing Rirtual)

This largest peaceful congregation of people in the world had a grand assembly of rituals, with the bathing ceremony reigning supreme as the most significant of them all.

Besides sadhus, saints and holy men, over 10 million kalpavasis from all over the world attended Maha Kumbh 2025. Kalpavas is a spiritual and religious practice for common people, who renounce worldly comforts and meditate on Lord Shiva on the banks of the Sangam during the auspicious months of Paush and Magh. Kalpavas is considered a pathway for common people to attain salvation (moksha).

At Maha Kumbh 2025, the first Shahi Snan in the holy water of the Sangam began on 13 January 2025 with the Paush Purnima Snan and concluded on 26 February 2025 on the auspicious occasion of Maha Shivratri.

The Purnima (or Full Moon Day) in the Hindu calender month of Paush is called Paush Purnima.

Auspicious days for Maha Kumbh Snan:

• 13 January 2025: Paush Purnima
• 14 January 2025: Makar Sankranti (First Shahi Snan)
• 29 January 2025: Mauni Amavasya (Second Shahi Snan)
• 03 February 2025: Basant Panchami (Third Shahi Snan)
• 12 February 2025: Maghi Purnima
• 26 February 2025: Maha Shivratri (Final Snan)

The Amavasya (or New Moon Day) in the Hindu calender month of Magh is called Mauni Amavasya. It’s a special ritual day of the Kumbh Mela, marked by the Amrit Snan. Around 100 million pilgrims were anticipated to be present that day. But a tragic stampede occurred in the very early hours before dawn resulting in 30 deaths.

Nonetheless, over 57 million pilgrims took a holy dip in the Sangam waters that day amidst enhanced security measures, making it one of the largest single-day gatherings recorded.

The number of people who arrived in Prayagraj for this Maha Kumbh Mela created new records and broke many world records in the course of the Mela as nowhere on Earth has such an enormous scale of organization ever been carried out, and with such tremendous success.

Such enormity is usually prone to panic situations like stampedes which cause more trouble, but thankfully there were minimal untoward incidents, and those too were handled with great care and precision.

 

Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath

Given that this would be India’s largest public gathering, planning logistics was crucial. The Chief Minister of Uttar Pradesh, 52-year-old Hindu monk Yogi Adityanath (popularly called as “Yogi Ji”) played a pivotal role in the organization of Maha Kumbh 2025. His personal involvement was evident throughout.

CM Adityanath’s administration work was praised globally, with UNESCO representatives and international media acknowledging the event’s scale and organization. Under his able leadership, the event turned into a historic event, blending tradition with modernity, and reinforcing Uttar Pradesh’s position as a hub of spiritual tourism.

Based on past experiences of Kumbh Melas in Prayagraj, around 400 million pilgrims were estimated to attend the Maha Kumbh. The budget was pegged at 7,500 crore (75 billion) rupees, which is approximately US$730 million. The central government supplemented this with a special grant of 2,100 crore (21 billion) rupees, ensuring the event could accommodate an estimated 400-450 million pilgrims. That the number would cross 660 million was way beyond anyone’s imagination.

The funds were allocated for extensive preparations, including infrastructure development (roads, parking, and temporary city setups covering 4000 hectares), sanitation (150,000 toilets and urinals), security (40,000 police officers, surveillance systems, and underwater drones), transportation (special trains and helicopter services) , and healthcare. The budget also supported cultural and religious programs central to the event, which drew an estimated 450 million devotees. Additional funds were allotted to specific projects like fire safety and infrastructure.

The Maha Kumbh not only served as a spiritual gathering but also aimed to boost the region’s economy with revenue projections estimating 3-3.5 lakh crore rupees (which is approximately US$36- 42 billion) in activity and 12 lakh (1.2 million) temporary jobs, particularly in tourism and hospitality.

Significant infrastructure enhancements included upgrades to roads, ghats, and transportation networks in the region’s religious tourism circuit comprising pilgrimage sites like Ayodhya, Varanasi, and Chitrakoot.

CM Adityanath took a hands-on approach to the Maha Kumbh preparations, conducting multiple review meetings to ensure timely completion of projects. His efforts encompassed comprehensive planning, massive infrastructure upgrades, robust security, sanitation initiatives, and a focus on cultural and economic upliftment.

Infrastructure development:

• Land Expansion and Accessibility: Four dredging machines reclaimed 26 hectares of land, right at Sangam nose, where everyone wanted to take the dip. Over 450 km of roads were constructed or widened, and parking facilities spanning 1,850 hectares were developed.
• Ghats and Accommodation: The total length of ghats was extended to 12 km, divided into 25 sectors, with 150,000 tents set up for pilgrims. Nearly 83 projects, costing ₹14.28 billion (US$160 million), were completed to enhance facilities.
• Transportation: Improved connectivity was ensured by coordinating with Indian Railways to increase coaches in key trains like the Prayagraj Express and arranging 360 trains, including 190 special ones, for peak days like Mauni Amavasya. Prayagraj Airport was also upgraded with daily flights from major cities.

Security arrangements:

• Deployment of a seven-tier security plan involving over 40,000 police personnel, including 1,378 women officers to protect female devotees.
• Advanced technologies like AI-enabled CCTV cameras, facial recognition, and underwater drones were introduced, with a network of 2,300 cameras ensuring round-the-clock surveillance.

Following a fire incident on January 19, 2025, caused by gas cylinder explosions, the CM personally visited the site to assess the situation, ensuring rapid response and no casualties.

Another hallmark of his administration’s approach was cleanliness. 10,000 sanitation workers were deployed, and 150,000 toilets and urinals were installed with a monitoring system to maintain hygiene. Among many other records, the Maha Kumbh set a Guinness World Record for the largest synchronised sweeping drive.

Post-event, CM Yoginath launched a 15-day cleanliness drive on February 28, 2025, honouring sanitation workers for their efforts during the 45-day festival. Additionally, 500 Ganga Praharis were tasked with keeping the river clean, though water quality remained a challenge.

After the Mela concluded, he expressed gratitude to Prime Minister Narendra Modi for his guidance, crediting collective efforts for its success, and emphasized its role in fostering national unity and spiritual tourism.

 

PM Narendra Modi

Thanks to PM Modi’s significant contributions to the Maha Kumbh Mela, this “once in a lifetime” spiritual and religious event became an international mega success. His contributions encompassed strategic vision, personal engagement, infrastructure support, technological integration, and economic-cultural promotion, which ensured that the landmark 45-day spiritual and religious gathering was a testament to India’s organizational capacity and global stature.

On February 5, 2025, on the auspicious occasion of Magh Ashtami and Bhishma Ashtami, PM Modi visited Prayagraj and took a holy dip at the Triveni Sangam alongside CM Yogi Adityanath, underscoring his personal commitment to India’s spiritual traditions. On arrival, he proceeded to Arail Ghat, and took a boat ride to the Sangam, where he offered prayers and performed an aarti to Goddess Ganga.

His prior visit in December 2024 involved inspecting preparations and performing rituals at key sites like the Akshay Vat and Hanuman Temple, signalling early and sustained oversight.

Under his Digital India initiative, the Maha Kumbh incorporated advanced technologies, a move he championed to modernize traditional practices. His involvement elevated the Maha Kumbh’s economic impact and his presence and endorsements amplified its global visibility, drawing 55 lakh (5.5 million) international pilgrims.

PM Modi provided overarching guidance for the event, showcasing the cultural and spiritual grandeur on a global stage.

 

Anna Seva and community service

Anna Seva, or the act of providing food as a selfless service, holds immense significance during the Maha Kumbh Mela. It’s a sacred act of charity, rooted in Hindu tradition, where feeding the hungry is considered one of the highest forms of service, yielding immense spiritual merit, surpassing even grand material donations like gold or land.

Image credit: Mahakumbh on X

The scale of Anna Seva at Maha Kumbh 2025 was staggering, with efforts collectively feeding millions over the 45-day period. This act not only nourished the body but also carried deep spiritual weight, believed to cleanse sins and bring blessings to both the giver and receiver. For many, participating in or donating to Anna Seva was a way to connect with the divine, especially during key bathing dates like Mauni Amavasya and Maha Shivratri, when the influx of pilgrims peaked. The event showcased a remarkable blend of faith, community, and compassion, making Anna Seva a cornerstone of the Maha Kumbh experience.

Various business organizations, spiritual groups, and individuals participated in Anna Seva to support the millions of attendees. Their efforts not only fed pilgrims but also stimulated local economies in hospitality, food, and transportation sectors.

The Reliance Foundation launched a large-scale initiative under its “Teerth Yatri Seva” program, setting up “Anna Seva” camps, providing nutritious meals to millions.

Similarly, the Adani Group partnered with ISKCON to offer “Mahaprasad Seva,” serving free meals to over 100,000 devotees daily, including sanitation workers using eco-friendly plates made of leaves. ISKCON’s 2,500 volunteers managed kitchens starting at 2 AM, distributing prasadam (sanctified food) like roti, dal, rice, vegetables, and sweets. These meals, prepared under strict hygiene standards, were distributed at multiple locations to ensure no devotee went hungry during their spiritual journey.

Gupt Vrindavan Dham, alongside Vrindavan Chandrodaya Mandir, fed 20,000 pilgrims daily, while Go Dharmic aimed for 5,000. Smaller outfits like Charitism and Veda Sankalpa distributed meals, blankets, and grocery kits to sadhus and devotees. These acts of service ensured no devotee went hungry, embodying the ethos of Seva bhav (selfless service) central to the Maha Kumbh.

Local communities and individuals along the pilgrimage routes even stepped in, offering snacks and tea to those stuck in traffic, amplifying the collective spirit of devotion and support.

 

Religion and Business Synergy

The Maha Kumbh Mela 2025 showcased the significant roles played by both business and religious organizations. The interplay between them was seamless. Businesses provided the infrastructure—tents, sanitation, and technology—enabling religious groups to focus on spiritual and charitable activities. In return, the sanctity and scale of the event, driven by religious bodies, attracted the masses that businesses sought to serve. This collaboration not only turned the Maha Kumbh into an economic powerhouse, but also made it a global event, setting a benchmark for large-scale religious gatherings.

The Maha Kumbh generated employment for around 600,000 people, from sanitation workers to vendors. Local entrepreneurs, like those selling religious merchandise or disposable items, saw unprecedented demand. For instance, a paper goods seller reported a 15 million rupee sales spike, while stationery vendors noted a 16% revenue increase due to Maha Kumbh-themed products.

Religious organizations were the spiritual backbone of the Maha Kumbh, orchestrating rituals, providing sustenance, and fostering a sense of community among devotees.

Organizations such as ISKCON and Gupt Vrindavan Dham, and various Akharas (religious sects) hosted discourses, havans (fire rituals), and Vedic chants, preserving ancient traditions.

In essence, business organizations fuelled the economic engine of the Maha Kumbh 2025, while religious organizations anchored its spiritual heart. Together, they created a harmonious confluence of faith, service, and commerce, leaving a lasting legacy of unity and prosperity in Prayagraj and beyond.

 

Information Source: Grok AI

 

MY MAHA KUMBH 2025 EXPERIENCE

 

Notwithstanding the tremendous crowd, I wanted to experience the power of Maha Kumbh Mela 2025. A week after the start of the pilgrimage, my elder sister Swapna casually asked me if I wanted to visit Prayagraj and Varanasi. I instantly said “Yes” to her 🙂 and she immediately made the flight and hotel bookings for the trip from 17th to 20th of February.

So the Gods had heard my silent wish… and I got my calling to the Maha Kumbh Mela 🙂 🙂 🙂

On the 17th, we were at Varanasi airport around 7AM, ready to proceed on the 3-hour journey to Prayagraj. Of course, we expected it to take much longer than 3 hours, given the huge traffic. Fortunately, the driver of the tourist car hired by my sister knew the right route to follow for a hassle-free journey. He was recommended by a good friend of hers so she had booked the car for the entire trip.
At Prayagraj, outstation vehicles weren’t allowed entry within a few kilometres of the Mela site. The car had to be left behind in the parking area and the two of us had to take bike taxis, the unauthorized mode of public transport during the Mela. We just had a light suitcase and a tote bag so the ride through rough inner lanes and heavy traffic zones wasn’t all that uncomfortable.
Our destination was Aagman tent city in Arail’s Sector 24. After 20 minutes or so, we reached the Sangam riverbank. The biker told us that it was on the opposite side of the river and the only link was a very long and crowded foot bridge, about 200 metres away.

It was one of the 30 pontoon bridges constructed over the Ganga and Yamuna.

 

The strong mid-day heat and wet sand before us deterred us from proceeding ahead with our luggage. We chanced upon a bike for the short distance. To our delight, the driver offered to drop us right up to our tent city! He said there was a pontoon bridge for vehicles, a few kilometres ahead. Within moments, we found another bike for my sister.

Being the sand bed of river Ganga, the entire Arail region covering temporary Mela accommodation and infrastructure goes under water during the rainy season. In the dry season, the sandy environment resembled a desert stay minus the camels.

The huge and sprawling Aagman Tent City was idyllically located on the banks of the Ganga. It had over 400 luxury to premium tents.

It was a blistering hot afternoon. So we went out in the evening and did a recce of the surrounding area and Arail Ghat on bike.

From our tent city to Arail Ghat, there were numerous tent cities falling into categories of cheap to basic, average to medium and luxury to premium.

That day itself, a huge influx of visitors had flowed into Arail Ghat area, so the accommodation tariffs had risen during our stay. Besides tent cities, we saw a “dome” city alongside the road. The bike driver told me that its tariff was 130,000 per night, but being road facing, the domes neither afforded privacy nor riverside views.

When my sister had done our online tent booking, the tariff had been 15,000 rupees per person including meals. But during our stay, the tariff had risen to 50,000 rupees per person. Not just accommodations, even flight tickets had soared high.

The next day, a Tuesday, we started for our Maha Kumbh dip, very early in the morning. At 5:30 AM, the biker who had brought us to our tent city was outside the gate with another biker. The latter guided us down to the riverbank, some kilometres away from the crowded Arail Ghat. Fortunately, very soon, we got a small boat to the Triveni Sangam (confluence between Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati) between Sangam Ghat and Arial Ghat.

View of Arail Ghat…

 

 

Pre-dawn boat ride to Triveni Sangam…

 

 

 

Finally, I had my magical moment in the Sangam waters, greeting the rising Sun with folded hands.

While working on this blog post, I thought of checking the sunrise time on that day. It was 6:35 AM.  I swear to god, I wasn’t aware of this when I took my dip. By pure coincidence, I got into the Sangam waters at 6:35 AM 🙂 🙂 🙂

See, my videos show the time as 6:37 AM and 6:39 AM…

 

Boat ride back to Arial riverbank…

 

 

It had been a divine Sangam experience 🙂 🙂 🙂

In the evening, the bike taxis were at the gate at 4:30 PM for our visit to the Bade Hanuman Ji temple on the opposite side of the river.

On the way, we stopped at Arial Ghat for this amazing view of huge crowds on either side of the river and the sandbank in between.

We rode by this newly-built Shivalaya Park, which houses replicas of the 12 Jyotirlingas…
After reaching the other side, the bikes had to be parked at the Parade Grounds. The bike drivers doubled as guides. They led us through a short cut to the Sangam Nak (or Nose) area, where a massive 16th century fort stands facing the river.

Shiva Panchakshara Stotram: Written by Sri Adi Shankaracharya

 

I had been here for the first time about 21 years ago in 2004, on a day trip from Varanasi. Taking a cycle rickshaw from Prayagraj bus station, I had come to the Fort area for a boat ride to the Sangam waters.

It was a small boat and there were 3-4 other passengers in it. I think the return fare was less than 100 rupees in those days. The confluence area had been marked by placing wooden poles all around, but there was no sandbank that time. I hadn’t stepped into the Sangam waters, only collected it in my hands and sprinkled it over my head. I had to return to Varanasi by night so I didn’t want to get drenched.

After that, I had visited the beautiful Shankar Viman Mandapam temple and the Bade Hanuman Ji temple. Due to massive floods in those times, the huge reclining idol of Lord Hanuman in the basement had to be covered to protect it from getting submerged in the overflowing Ganges.

After my temple visits, I had taken a cycle rickshaw to Anand Bhavan, and then another to the City Museum. To know the reason for visiting the last two places, check this link 🙂

My 100th Post: Know Me Better

This time, after two decades, coincidentally, the first temple that my sister and I visited in that very same area was the beautiful 3-storied Shankar Viman Mandapam temple 🙂

The temple houses a statue of Sri Adi Shankaracharya. On the first floor, there’s a beautiful idol of Devi Shakti in the form of Devi Kamakshi. The next floor is dedicated to Vishnu Ji in the form of Sri Venkateswara (Balaji) from Tirupati and the top floor is dedicated to Shiva Ji in the form of Sahasra Yoga Linga.

Sada Shivashtakam : This Stotra is from Halasya Puranam, (i.e. the story of the city of Madurai in Tamil Nadu) and is a prayer to Lord Sundareswarar of Madurai. It’s written by Sage Patanjali.

 

View from the top floor…

Next we went to the Bade Hanuman Ji temple.

Yours truly after paying obeisance to Hanuman Ji and with garlands & prasad from him…

I remember falling in love with the beautiful Shankar Viman Mandapam temple 21 years ago. It happened this time too and I stepped inside the temple again 🙂

By then, it had grown dark and the temple looked fabulous under the night lights.

Yours truly on the top floor 🙂

Back at the Parade Grounds, we visited the replica of Ayodhya’s Shri Ram Mandir…

Ongoing fair at the Parade Grounds…

Pillion riding along the new Naini Bridge…

City traffic…

We had worn cloth masks to reduce pollution exposure. After two days of crazy pillion rides, speeding through heavy city traffic and rough but traffic-free inner lanes, it was the last night in Prayagraj. Given the huge crowds and heavy traffic, we had managed to explore the city on bike in least time thanks to the expert bikers cum guides.
We had spectacular views of the colourful night illuminations in the tented accommodations and bridges 🙂

 

Next day, early in the morning, we started for Varanasi – the abode of Lord Shiva.

 

MY VARANASI EXPERIENCE

 

Varanasi is Shiva Ji’s eternal home, and the Ghats alongside the Ganga River are his playground. Bathing here is said to absolve sins, while dying here ensures liberation—beliefs tied to Shiva Ji’s grace, often invoked with “Har Har Mahadeva.”

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Mahadeva or Shiva as Vishwanath (“Lord of the Universe”), is the heart of Varanasi.

The Ghats of Varanasi, form the spiritual and cultural heartbeat of this ancient city. Numbering over 80, they stretch along the river’s western edge in a crescent-shaped arc. These stone embankments, built over centuries, are not just physical structures but living spaces where life, death, and devotion intertwine daily. Many of them date back to the 14th-18th centuries, and were funded by kings, Maratha rulers, and wealthy patrons. Their weathered steps bear the marks of time, floods, and millions of pilgrims.

The Ghats reflect Varanasi’s dual role as a city of salvation and a gateway to the afterlife. Most are used for bathing and religious rituals (puja), while a few, like Manikarnika and Harishchandra, are dedicated to cremation.

There are 88 Ghats, though around 84 are prominent, with some private and others public. They span roughly 6.8 kilometers along the Ganga, from Assi (meaning ‘80’ in Hindi) Ghat in the south to Raj Ghat in the north. They come alive at sunrise. Pilgrims bathe to cleanse sins, chanting “Har Har Mahadeva”. Priests perform havan (fire rituals), while boatmen call out to tourists. The water reflects the golden light, dotted with flower offerings. In the evening, the mood shifts to reverence with the Ganga Aarti, especially at Dashashwamedh. Lamps flicker, conch shells blow, and the river mirrors the glow—a hypnotic blend of sound and light. The main Ghats are:

Dashashwamedh Ghat
The most famous and bustling Ghat, known for its grand evening Ganga Aarti. Priests in saffron robes perform synchronized rituals with fire lamps, bells, and chants (including “Har Har Mahadeva”), drawing crowds of devotees and tourists. Myth says Lord Brahma performed 10 horse sacrifices (‘dash-ashwamedh’) here.

Manikarnika Ghat
The primary cremation Ghat, steeped in solemnity. Hindus believe dying and being cremated here grants moksha (liberation), as Shiva Ji whispers the ‘Taraka’ mantra to the soul. Pyres burn 24/7, with wood stacked high and mourners chanting.

Assi Ghat
The southernmost Ghat, quieter and more serene, where the Assi River once met the Ganga (now a trickle). It’s a hub for sunrise yoga, meditation, and smaller aartis.

Harishchandra Ghat
Another cremation Ghat, smaller than Manikarnika but equally significant. Named after King Harishchandra, who worked here to uphold truth, it’s a place of reflection on dharma.

Kedar Ghat
This Ghat with red-and-white striped steps is home to the Gauri Kedareshwar Temple (dedicated to Shiva Ji and Devi Parvati). It is popular with South Indian pilgrims.

Every year, the Ghats draw thousands of international tourists, with boat rides offering stunning views. During Maha Kumbh 2025, many pilgrims proceeded to Varanasi, boosting its tourism.

The hour-long evening boat cruise on the Ganges starts from Assi Ghat so my sister had booked our hotel stay near this ghat.

View of the Ganga and Assi Ghat from the hotel balcony…

Assi Ghat is mentioned in ancient Hindu scriptures such as Matsya Purana, Kurma Pursna, Agni Purana and Padma Purana. It is also called the “Haridwar” of Varanasi, and is one of the most important pilgrimages places in Varanasi.

Renowned saint and poet Tulsidas, best known as the author of ‘Hanuman Chalisa’ and of ‘Ramcharitmanas’, a retelling of the Sanskrit ‘Ramayana’ in Awadhi language, breathed his last at Assi Ghat in 1623.

Rudrashtakam: Written by Sri Tulsidas

 

Our boat was a triple-deck multipurpose vessel, M.V. Swami Vivekananda…

At sharp 6PM, the ship sounded its horn to signal its departure.

Yours truly enjoying the cruise 🙂

Video of Assi Ghat..

The Ghats are flanked by towering structures—temples, ashrams, and palaces—like the pink-hued Munshi Ghat or the ornate Chet Singh Ghat, built by a local king. Narrow alleys (or gullies) lead from the Ghats into the old city, filled with shrines and shops selling Rudraksha beads and silk. Floods often submerge the lower steps during monsoons, yet the Ghats endure, their resilience mirroring Varanasi’s timelessness.

Here are the videos of all the Ghats alongside the Ganges, from the ancient Assi Ghat to the recent Namo Ghat. Enjoy 🙂

 

The iconic Dashashwamedh Ghat, where the famous evening Ganga Aarti is held…

Owing to huge rush of pilgrims during Maha Kumbh Mela, the Ganga Aarti ceremony was withheld till the end of the Mela.

Manikarnika Ghat, the worlds’ largest crematorium..

As per Hindu belief, a person whose last rites are performed here, attains ‘Moksha’, meaning the soul attains ‘mukti’ (end of journey) and hence breaks the cycle of rebirth when cremated here. Around 350 dead bodies are cremated here every day, almost 24X7. At times, the count goes up to 600. It is also called the ‘Burning Ghat’.

Please excuse the loud interference of a guy chatting on phone while I was doing this recording of Panch Ganga Ghat…

The mosque seen in the video is Alamgir Mosque, which was built over a grand Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the Bindu Madhav Mandir.

Aurangzeb, the sixth Mughal emperor, on killing his brothers and taking the throne, took a new title for himself. Alamgir. It means ‘Conqueror of the World’ in Persian. He destroyed the sacred Bindu Madhav Mandir and built the mosque in his name atop it.

Namo Ghat…

On the return, this stunning view of Dashashwamedh Ghat…

The Ghats pulse with energy – raw, chaotic, and sacred – embodying Varanasi’s essence as a bridge between the earthly and the divine. Here, “Har Har Mahadeva” isn’t just heard; it’s felt in every stone, wave, and breath.

Imagine standing on Dashashwamedh Ghat at dusk: the river glimmers with oil lamps, a priest swings a multi-tiered lamp to rhythmic chants, and the crowd sways in unison. Nearby, Manikarnika’s fires crackle, a reminder of life’s impermanence.

After landing, we set afloat lighted diyas in the Ganges at Assi Ghat and then visited Sankat Mochan Mandir, an ancient temple dedicated to Hanuman Ji. This temple was established by Goswami Tulsidas Ji in the 16th century. The legendary poet-saint is said to have found inspiration for his ‘Ramcharitmanas’ in the tranquil environment of the temple grounds.

For dinner, we had a vegetarian sandwich at Varanasi’s Starbucks, which had opened in the city last year.

The next day, we started for Kashi Vishwanath Mandir at 4:30 AM. Vehicles are not allowed entry near the temple area. Being a narrow road, we took an auto-rickshaw till the last point for vehicles, and from there, a cycle-rickshaw which was allowed till a few kilometres before the temple area. The place was flooded with pilgrims even at that very early hour. We had a quick darshan as there was a never-ending queue behind.

21 years ago, when I had been to the temple, there was no crowd. I had touched the Shivlinga in the inner sanctum. A priest had given me a guided tour of the temple. That was a really memorable visit. I had visited later in the evening too and that time, there was a queue. It was a small place back then.

It was nearing 7 AM when we reached the narrow lane to Dashashwamedh Ghat. It was jam-packed with pilgrims so we returned to our hotel.

Banaras Hindu University was close to our hotel. Two decades ago, the Vishwanath Mandir in the sprawling University grounds had enchanted me.
We ended our Maha Kumbh Mela trip with a visit to this lovely temple, which had retained its charm in the peaceful environment. Outside the gate, there were plenty of food stalls offering hot breakfast. We had kulhad tea and piping hot Chole Samosa. Then I spied a unique Batata Vada snack offered by a vendor. It tasted yummy with spiced sprouted brown chana, spicy toppings of tamarind chutney and green chutney and a garnish of blanched tomato and chopped fresh coriander.

 

Replication of the snack at home 🙂

It was absolutely delicious and healthy as well 🙂

Looking back, this was a beautiful trip with magical moments. Moving around amidst millions of pilgrims and witnessing the massive arrangements made for this great event, was in itself a cherishing experience, providing valuable insights.

People of all income groups, castes and communities from across the country and abroad had come to the Maha Kumbh and mingled around as pilgrims with a single purpose: to take a holy dip and enjoy the experience. The presence and involvement of all kinds of organizations – whether charitable, religious, business, educational, government, non-government, community, etc. – was visible through their tent accomodations.

Strangers greeted each other with  a euphoric “Har Har Mahadev!”. There was no pushing or jostling in the huge crowds at temples or Mela site, no fights or arguments in the heavy city traffic.

To call this event as a success is an absolute understatement. It was a phenomenal super-duper achievement! So a big ‘Thank You’ and a huge round of applause for each and every person involved in making this once in 144 year Maha Kumbh a highly memorable one.

May the Kumbh Mela be a great source of civilizational revival and cultural renaissance!

Hope you’ve enjoyed reading this post as much as I enjoyed putting it together 🙂

So long and take care 🙂

Har Har Mahadeva!

Information Source: Grok AI

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

 

I hope you all are sharing my blog posts with friends and family. To make it more easier for you, tap this link A List Of All My Posts to check out the entire list of my posts 😀 You know, I’d hate to think that you missed something 😉

If you’re my first-time reader, don’t forget to follow my blog 🙂  Enter your email address and hit the “Follow” button and you will receive my new posts by email 🙂 🙂 🙂

CLICK Discovering Mexico  US$ 16.97 (or the equivalent value in your currency)

HERE TO BUY:   https://www.e-junkie.com/i/p6sy

To know all about Mexico, here’s my ebook (PDF format):

Mexico: The Country, Its History & The Maya World  US$ 7.97 (or the equivalent value in your currency)

CLICK HERE TO BUY:   https://www.e-junkie.com/i/p6vh

For Mexico’s food history, detailed information on Mexican food & drink and a few recipes, buy my ebook (PDF format):

A Guide To Mexican Cuisine US$ 5.97 (or the equivalent value in your currency)

CLICK HERE TO BUY:   https://www.e-junkie.com/i/p6vr

 

If you love reading romance novels and are a big fan of Mills & Boon novels, you will love my romance ebook (PDF format):

The Blue-Eyed Prince of Natlife US$ 4.99 (or the equivalent value in your currency)

If you are a first-time visitor, I hope to see you again soon. Perhaps you might want to leave a like, comment, follow or hopefully all the three 😀

Remember, your feedback is highly appreciated. Your “Like” and comments are greatly valued. And let me tell you that I just love reading the warm words of appreciation that I receive for my work from my readers through the Contact Me Page 😀  So be generous with the feedback 😀

You can also connect with me on:

X (Twitter):  https://twitter.com/swarupa007

YouTube:  https://www.youtube.com/user/swarupa7

Thanks for stopping by, I hope to see you back 😀 Till then, take care… cheers 😀