Discovering the Medway

21 01 2026

Discovering Singaporeโ€™s Best Kept Secrets
Exploring the Past, Re-imagining the Future of Singaporeโ€™s Historical State Properties

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Dover Road, an area associated with educational establishments, Medway Park, escapes the attention of many. The value of the collection of late colonial era residences is the link that it provides to the area’s discarded military past, a past that actually laid the foundations for some of its schools, space for the Singapore Polytechnic’s new home and eventually for the National University of Singapore’s UTown.

Medway Park, which Discovering Singapore’s Best Kept Secrets 2025/26 series will visit next, is an interesting study in itself. Built as Medway Park Married Quarter Estate to house officers of the Royal Army and their families, its construction came at a time, seemingly of expansion for the British military forces based in SIngapore, when it could not seem to build quickly enough for the numbers it was bringing in. The married quarter estate would be among the last to be built by the War Department before it turned to renting properties, and eventually buying over a private residential development during its construction.

Being among the last to be built Medway Park’s 82 houses were also the army’s most modern with a design suited to the changing tastes, needs and lifestyles of the fast modernising world. For example, patios and large balconies replaced verandahs, extensions with accommodation for live-in hired help replaced separated accommodation, and walk-in garages replaced porches. Having been reletively new and well located, the houses, some of which would be used by diplomatic staff, were popular renters following the British and later the ANZUK force pullout.

The visit to Medway Park will take place on 31 Jan 2026 at 9am. Participants will have to opportunity to visit two of the estate’s charming houses, each with a GFA of over 2,500 sq. ft and both with generously sized grounds. Participants will also be provided with some insights into the history of the area, the background to the names found in the area, as well as information on a key historical site nearby. The visit is being organised in collaboration with Singapore Land Authority.





Discovering the former RAF Seletar

31 12 2025

Discovering Singaporeโ€™s Best Kept Secrets
Exploring the Past, Re-imagining the Future of Singaporeโ€™s Historical State Properties

Discovering Singaporeโ€™s Best Kept Secrets 2025/26 contnues with a visit on 10 January 2026 to 179 and 450 Piccadilly. The two buildings are amongst a number of conserved structures associated with the former RAF Seletar / Seletar Air Base marking the site of the Royal Air Force’s very first establishment in Singapore. Location close to a body of water to permit the operation of flying boats, it was also where Singapore very first aerodrome was constructed. The aerodromme, which opened in 1930, would serve both military and commercial flights, playing host to the very first intercontinental passenger services into and out of Singapore.

More information on 450 Piccadilly can be found in this post:

RAF Seletar’s Last Barrack Block

The tour will allow participants to view the inside of the two properties between 9 to 10.45 am on 10 January 2026, a Saturday.

Registration (via Peatix)
[Registration starts onย Thu, 1 Jan 2026 at 10 am]
Link for registration (Please click here)





Discovering a Sembawang Arts and Crafts Inspiration

5 12 2025

Discovering Singaporeโ€™s Best Kept Secrets
Exploring the Past, Re-imagining the Future of Singaporeโ€™s Historical State Properties

The second tour in the Discovering Singapore’s Best Kept Secrets 2025/26 series will provide an exclusive peek into an Arts and Craft Movement inspired residence. The residence belongs to a large cluster of residences built in Sembawang from the late 1920s. Intended as accommodation for a married dockyard Superior Officer, its construction came as part of a massive development in Singapore’s northern shore to house Britain’s largest naval establishment outside of the United Kingdom.

The building of the naval base came about as a strategic response to the shifts in power during the First World War and in the wake of the 1921/22 Washington Naval Conference. Stretching from Sembawang Road to the Causeway (see: Last post standing), the base included a complete set of berths, maintenance facilities that included one of the world’s largest graving docks at the time, and supply infrastructure such as a stores basin, storehouses, and magazines. To house the thousands required to run the base and their families, residences ranging from bungalows to labourers quarters were also erected, along with recreational facilities, a reservoir and other amenities. The house is among the earliest residences in the base, and among a handful that feature designs inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement. More on these houses can be found in this 2020 post: The lovely red-brick residences of northern Singapore.

The tour will allow participants to view the inside of the property and its outhouse, and its garden. Two sessions will be held, one at 9 to 9.45 am, and the other at 10 to 10.45 am on 20 December 2025, a Saturday.

Discovering Singapore’s Best Kept Secrets Series
Further tours in the series will held from Jan 2026. More information on this will be released in due course.






Discovering Singaporeโ€™s Best Kept Secrets

28 11 2025

Visiting Pasir Panjang ‘A’ Power Station in 2018

The first tour in the series will give an exclusive behind the scenes look at and into the newly renovated and expanded Temasek Shophouse, which reopened its doors in September this year following a two-year refurbishment. 

The Temasek Shophouse row is one with a colourful past
(2019 Photograph).

Opened in 2019, the Temasek Shophouse (TSH) initially occupied the conserved 26 to 36 Orchard Road (28 Orchard Road was used as its address). TSH has since expanded with the inclusion of other conserved buildings along the same row and now includes 14 โ€“ 20 Orchard Road, 22 โ€“ 24 Orchard Road, and the somewhat tiny 38 Orchard Road. All are now interconnected through a โ€˜spineโ€™ at the buildings’ rear sections.

During the tour participants will be taken through the various spaces including some not normally accessible ones, learn about the history of the buildings, who built them and why, discover some of the ‘secrets’ that the buildings hold and what the motivations were for the restored buildings’ somewhat โ€˜dulledโ€™ appearances.

Continuation of the Discovering Singapore’s Best Kept Secrets Series
Further tours in the series will held from Jan 2026 onwards at a frequency of about once a month. Tours locations will include buildings of the former RAF Seletar, the Danish Seamenโ€™s Church, and former Bukit Timah Fire Station. More information on this will be released in due course.






Singapore’s Modern CBD: a Sea of Change

10 11 2025
Trinity Church as viewed through Wall Street.

The view of the former Telok Ayer Market, at the end of the narrow passage formed by the backs of the towering structures of Robinson Road and Shenton Way, reminded me of a similar view that I got of Lower Manhattan’s Trinity Church during a visit to New York in 2015. Both 19th century structures, they stood in sharp contrast to their more modern and much taller companions. As markers of the past, both tell a story of progress through change and adaptation.

Most of us would be familar with Telok Ayer Market as ‘Lau Pa Sat’, the ‘old market’ in localised Hokkien or Teochew (Pa Sat is a loan word derived from the Malay ‘pasar’ or market), the former market is now among the oldest buildings in what became Singapore’s modern financial district. A witness to the area’s 20th century transformation, the former market does itself tell a story of change. Erected as the second Telok Ayer Market in 1894, it replaced an earlier market located at what would now be the north side of Cecil Street at Market Street after that had lost its seafront due to the reclamation of Telok Ayer or ‘Water Bay’ from 1879.

The reclamation of Telok Ayer, a bay used as an entry point for many Indian and Chinese immigrants in the early days of Singapore as a British trading post, would provide land for the post-independence development in the so-called ‘Golden Shoe’ area, which formed the heart of the mdoern day CBD.

Now dominated by the later 20th and early 21st century towers of glass, concrete and steel, the CBD is rather surprisingly, where many other reminders of the past can be found, markers even of the bay and its original shoreline, and what became of it.

A Sea of Change
A view towards what would before 1879 have been the bay known as Telok Ayer.

‘Built on Memory: Tracing Singaporeโ€™s CBD Through Time’

If you are keen to find out more on the CBD and its transformation over the course of 200 years, and about the markers of the past that can still be found, you may like to know that there is an exhibition that I have put together in collaboration with the Singapore Chinese Cultural Centre. Entitled ‘Built on Memory: Tracing Singaporeโ€™s CBD Through Time’, it contains archival photographs, maps and illustrations that tell the story of change and also some fun facts about the CBD and what could be discovered in it. The exhibition is being held at SCCC Level 9 & 10 foyer and runs from Oct 16, 2025 to Apr 07, 2026 and is open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.






Singapore’s Four Grand Mansions

6 11 2025

The Karim Family Foundation’s acquisition and careful restoration of the now resplendent House of Tan Yeok Nee (see also: The Last of the Grand Teochew Mansions), is truly a gift to Singapore. The 1880s house is now a unique example of a traditional southern-Chinese-style courtyard house here in Singapore and boasts an array of exquisite decorative craftsmanship. Gilded wooden carvings, decorative plasterwork, and qiร ncรญ (also commonly known as jiวŽnniรกn), are a testament to the wealth and status of its original owner, Tan Yeok Nee (also known as Tan Hiok Nee). Its opening to the public for the very first time over the weekend attracted quite a handsome crowd.

The House of Tan Yeok Nee in July 2025

A native of Chaozhou (Teochew) in China, Tan came to Singapore as a humble peddler and through his association with Temenggong Abu Bakar (later Maharajah, and eventually, the first Sultan of modern Johor), opened kangchus for gambier and pepper cultivation Johor. He was also an opium (revenue) farmer in both Johor and Singapore.

Tan, who seemed to have spared no expense in constructing the house, would however derive little pleasure from living in it. Personal misfortunes delayed his moving in and by 1900, he had the house put on sale, possibly with the knowledge that a railway line was to be laid right in front of the house. Tan would also return to his hometown, where he passed on in 1902.

Thought of as one of the so-called “Four Grand Mansions”, four large traditional courtyard homes that were erected by wealthy Teochew merchants, the House of Tan Yeok Nee is the only one that is still standing. Unfortunate as the railway’s appearance may have seemed to its occupants, the construction of the railway, was probably what saved the building from eventual demolition. The house was used by the Singapore Government Railway to house its station manager, become home and school for girls, and then for an appreciable length of time by the Salvation Army as its Singapore HQ. It was during its time as Salvation Army HQ in 1974, that it was gazetted as a National Monument.


What were the other three (Grand Mansions), and who built them?

House of Tan Seng Poh

Tan Seng Poh, who came over as a 9 year old from Perak, was a brother-in-law of Seah Eu Chin through Seah’s marriage to Tan’s sister. He acquired his wealth through opium and spirit (revenue) farming. Tan was also a co-proprietor of the Alexandra gunpowder magazine at Tanah Merah Kechil, and a Municipal Commissioner. Seng Poh Road in Tiong Bahru is named after him.

Tan passed on in 1875. His house, which was at the corner of Hill Street and Loke Yew Street, was used as the Chinese Consulate before it became the first of the ‘Four Grand Mansions’โ€’ to be demolished in 1904.


House of Wee Ah Hood

Wee Ah Hood was born in Circular Road in 1828. He worked as an assistant in a cloth dealerโ€™s shop in Telok Ayer Street before rising to become one of Singaporeโ€™s biggest gambier and pepper merchants of the time. Ah Hood Road is named after him. The mansion that Wee erected in 1878 along Hill Street would house the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, who leased it from 1906, before purchasing it outright in 1912. The Singapore Chamber of Commerce and Industry’s current building, which was completed in 1964, stands on the site of the mansion.


House of Seah Cheo Seah

Seah Cheo Seah was the eldest son of Seah Eu Chin’s second marriage, which was to Tan Seng Poh’s second sister. A prominent Teochew leader, a Justice of the Peace, was the younger Seah was well respected and was described as โ€œa gentleman well known for his kindness of heart and liberalityโ€. He built his mansion on the North Boat Quay in the area where (new) Parliament House stands today in 1872 and would be replaced by Guthrie Building.






A Visit to Battlebox with the BBC’s The Travel Show

19 10 2025

I had the privilege of showing the BBCโ€™s Carmen Roberts around the Battlebox in August. This was for a segment of โ€˜The Travel Showโ€™ for which she came back to Singaporeโ€”the country of her birth for an episode related to Singapore’s 60th anniversary of Independence and the 80th anniversary of the end of the Second World War.

The Battlebox, an underground command bunker located in Fort Canning Hill, was where the Malaya Command made the decision to surrender Singapore at a conference that was called at 9.30 am on 15. February 1942. It was a decision that just two months prior, when the first bombs fell on Singapore on 8 December 1941, seemed unthinkable. Singapore’s defenders were left with little choice and any Imperial Japanese Army assault on the urban centre with its large civilian population, would certainly have had disastrous consequences. The decision would however result in 3 1/2 years of pain and suffering for both the local population and also Singapore’s defenders.

The decision was made to surrender at a meeting held inside the Battlebox on the morning of 15 February 1942 at which twelve commanders, including Lt Gen Arthur Percival, were present.

It did not take long for unspeakable horrors to be unleashed, particularly on members of the Chinese community. Just days after the surrender, Sook Chingโ€”a purge targeting the Chinese population, commenced. The operation went on for three weeks and saw tens of thousands of Chinese men between the ages of 18 to 50, report to screening centres. While some men returned home, others were put on lorries, never to be heard from again as loved ones waited in vain for their return. Carmenโ€™s great uncle, Ee Tian Chian, was one of the men who were never seen again.

Inside the Battlebox with Carmen Roberts

https://www.bbc.com/reel/video/p0m6jf8x/the-mystery-of-a-singaporean-soldier-s-ww2-disappearance

The horrors that these men were subjected to would later emerge. Ferried to remote locations, a large number were lined up with hands tied behind their backs and fired at with machine guns. Bayonets would then be used to finish up. There were a handful of men who quite remarkably lived to tell the tale, saved by the bodies of comrades that had fallen over them. One survivor told of how the ropes that bound him were miraculously loosened as he and those he was tied together with were made to wade into the sea before being shot at. He escaped by submerging himself and swimming underwater before surfacing and making a desperate swim to freedom. Accounts of Prisoners of War who were tasked to clear massacre sites, civilians, who witnessed the atrocities or were made to dig pits for burial, shed light on sites of massacres.

It would only be in the 1960s, that the Singapore Chinese Chamber of Commerce organised the effort to identify sites of mass graves and to recover victims’ remains. This coincided with the effort to have a memorial to victims built, leading to the construction of the Civilian War Memorial. It is at the memorial that the remains that were recovered from over 50 mass graves have been reinterred.

A wallet belonging to a victim, Dr J C Chen, recovered from a mass grave.

About the Battlebox
https://battlebox.sg/about/

Built in 1936 and completed in 1939, the Battlebox served as the headquarters for the defending Allied forces against the invading Japanese army in the final days of the Malayan Campaign (8 Dec 1941 โ€” 15 Feb 1942).

It was here that Lieutenant-General Arthur Percival and 11 other commanders made the decision to surrender Singapore to the Japanese, resulting in possibly the greatest defeat of a British army ever in battle and the beginning of 3 ยฝ years of the Japanese Occupation of Singapore.


This full episode of the The Travel Show can be viewed on YouTube:






Wartime Tanjong Pagar Railway Station

12 10 2025
Syonan Station

From a New Straits Times article published in 2011.


As a boy, H.A. Patrick Sinnappoo was sent to the island to work as a translator. He tells Shanti Gunaratnam about his years there, witnessing the good, bad and ugly that were committed during the Japanese occupation.

“I saw a man pacing up and down, and when he told me that he was waiting for someone to arrive, I left him on his own and returned to my desk, although I knew no trains were due at that time.”

“Minutes later, I heard the sound of a gunshot,” said H.A. Patrick Sinnappoo, who was working as a translator for the Japanese at the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station.

“I found the man at the air-raid shelter with a gun in his hand. He was dead.

“The Japanese army officer had committed suicide when the Japanese surrendered to the British.

“But that officer was not the only casualty of the surrender,” said Sinnappoo.

“There were others, too, who committed suicide, either by slitting their wrists or shooting themselves,” recalled the 83 year old.

It all started in 1942, when the Japanese took over Malaya, forcing the administration and education system to be changed and children had to study the Japanese language (Nippon Go).

Already well-versed in English and Tamil, Sinnappoo had no problems mastering Japanese, for which he was given a “Rising Sun” badge and certificate.

In early 1944, the Japanese were recruiting young boys for the army and this got Sinnappoo’s parents worried .

“A relative, who was the chief signal inspector at Singapore Railways had attended my sister’s wedding around that time and before he went back, my mother spoke to him about me, and showed him my badge and certificate.

“A few days later, I received a letter from the Tanjong Pagar railway stationmaster, requesting me to attend an interview. I went wearing my Rising Sun badge on my shirt for the interview.”

When Sinnappoo entered the interview room at the railway station, a Japanese officer in military uniform saluted him and he was stunned.

Deep in his heart, Sinnappoo knew that the salute was for the “Rising Sun” badge.

Soon, he was appointed the Japanese/English interpreter, working with the Japanese and also locals at the railway station.

A few days after his appointment, Sinnappoo was taken to the kempeitai (military police) office at the station, where he was told to be ready when there were interrogations.

“As a 14 year old, working with the railway officials and travellers was fine, but working with the kempeitai, was something else.

“It was frightening to witness the punching, kicking and the beatings that went on during the interrogations.”

Farmers, travelling with tapioca and sweet potatoes from Layang and Kulai by goods trains, to do business at the Kampung Baru market, were treated like smugglers.

“One incident that I still remember was this Indian man who was caught heading for the market.

Upon searching him, the soldiers found a torchlight in his pocket, and he was brought in for questioning.

The man told the guards that he had bought the torchlight as a replacement for his room bulb that had fused because he did not have a spare bulb.

“The man was badly tortured and later, I discovered that he had died.

“The Japanese thought that the man was trying to sabotage the railway tracks.”

The other incident that Sinnappoo remembers well was the one that happened three months before the Japanese surrendered, involving five railway station staff there.

The five men were listening to BBC, All India Radio and also Radio Ceylon broadcasts about British counter attacks during World War 2.

“The men had told the Japanese officer who had caught them that they were listening to Tamil songs and were planning for their sons’ weddings.

“I knew what I had to do and informed the officer that they were just listening to Tamil songs and also that the old radio could not receive overseas transmissions.

“The officer insisted that they were traitors and the men were locked up at Outram Road Prison.

“Luckily, they were not tortured.
“While the men were in prison, their assistants carried out the duties to ensure the train services ran smoothly,” Sinnappoo added.

The five officers were eventually released.

The Japanese surrendered after the bombings in Hiroshima and Nagasaki and the British came back to administer Malaya.

“The British told me that I was too young to work and wanted me to go back to school.

“That was the end of my wonderful working life at the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station, which has one of the longest platforms in all of the railway stations,” said Sinnappoo with pride.
The landing of the British soldiers in Singapore by sea was a sight to behold for those who were shackled by the Japanese.

“We got a good view of the British soldiers landing by sitting on the St Theresa’s church bell in Kampung Baru.

“The parish priest there, on hearing about the landing, wanted us to ring the church bell but instead of pulling the bell ropes, we climbed up to the bell.

“Sitting up there, I had a good view of the sea. The landings took place all day, and the troops were landing by the hundreds.

“The big ships were far out in the sea and the soldiers came ashore on smaller boats, to Keppel harbour.”

Hundreds of tents were set up by the soldiers at the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station yard.”

The soldiers then moved to Bukit Timah, Kjanji and elsewhere by rail.

When the British took over, Sinnappoo registered for school at St Joseph’s Institution and later returned to Kuala Lumpur to continue his studies at St John’s Institution.

“In the four years I served under the Japanese, they were kind and treated me with respect.

“As a young boy, I saw many things, including the torture of the farmers and suicide of the Japanese, but took things in my stride.

“I also saw Indonesian workers working in Singapore dying after consuming too much tapioca.

“Their bloated bodies were on the roadside while many others died of starvation.”

Sinnappoo said when the Japanese surrendered, their money was found in bags in Singapore.

Prices of goods skyrocketed and one egg cost about 100 dollars.

“People had Japanese money but things were scarce and expensive.”

Sinnappoo completed his senior Cambridge at the age of 21 or 22 and went to work for the Central Electricity Board (now known as Tenaga Nasional Bhd) in 1953.

When he retired in 1985, Sinnappoo and his wife started their annual pilgrimage to the Novenna Church in Thompson Road, Singapore.

Upon reaching the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station, he would point out all the interesting places from Kampung Baru to the Perak flats, where he had lived, and the locomotive shed, shunting yard and signal cabin.

“This happened every time we went to Singapore and I suppose at some point, my wife became fed up of my Tanjong Pagar stories.”

The station was returned to Singapore on July 1, 2011.

“I will always miss the Tanjong Pagar Railway Station because I have so many wonderful memories of the place.

“The last time I visited the place was 2009. I was unaware that that would be the last time I would be stepping into the railway station.”






Singapore, the making of the Great Port City

21 04 2025
A 14th century ceramic Buddha head found during an excavation at Empress Place in 2015.

Genesis (1299 to 1869)

Singapore’s emergence as a great 14th century port is recorded through the stories of the Malay Annals, which accords 14th century Temasek or Singapura with the status of the first great port of the Malay world. There is little doubt of Singapore’s place in the region’s rich maritime history. A large body of archeological evidence does show that Singapore was indeed a thriving centre of trade and exchange.

Temasek’s rise would have had much to do with its advantageous geographical position at the crossroads of ancient maritime trading routes. This made it perfectly placed to benefit from the growing appetite for Chinese ceramic and silks in the West and in the Middle East, and for Middle-Eastern aromatics in the Far East. The region’s forest and waters were also fertile as sources of items in great demand such as lakawood for incense, hornbill casques โ€“ an ivory substitute, and the highly-prized trepang (sea cucumber). 

Hornbill casques – a display at the History Gallery of the National Museum of Singapore.

In spite of its advanteges, Singapore’s golden age of the Malay Annals was short-lived; its fortunes flowing and ebbing like the tides that carried its prosperity in. Singapura’s vulnerability to external events such as regional conflicts left its exposed. Power struggles, climatic disruptions, and eventually changes in trading patterns had an impact and an abrupt end was brought to this first recorded age of glory with Singapura fading into relative obscurity.

An interpretation of the end of Temasek’s golden age as told by the Malay Annals illustrated by Malaysian cartoonist, Lat, that was on display at Fort Canning Park.

Singapura seemed to have reemerged in the 16th century as an outpost of the ascendant Johor Sultanate, during a time when hitherto unseen threats made their appearance. The European powers had entered the fray and while Singapura may not have attained the same status as it did in the 14th century, its presence did not go unnoticed. From Dutch and Portuguese texts and charts, we learn of Singapore’s emergence as a โ€œXabandariaโ€ or โ€œSabandariaโ€ โ€“ a shahbandarโ€™s or harbourmaster’s station. Fragments of 16th century fine Chinese ceramics uncovered in the Kallang River estuary, point to Singapore also being a centre of exchange at the time.

Extract of a 1604 map drawn by Manuel Godinho de Erรฉdia showing a Xanabdaria in Singapore.

Flemish trader, Jacques de Coutre, went as far as identifying the Xabandaria’s potential as a defensive outpost early in the 17th century. Singapura however remained largely ignored by the Europeans, serving as the Orang Laut Raja Negara’s base until the 1770s.

By the time of the 1819 arrival of the Honourable East India Company (HEIC), Singapura had gone off the radar once again. The arrival of the HEIC to establish its emporium and free port on the island, could be thought of as having launched Singapore’s modern era.

One of the successes of the HEIC’s free port in Singapore, was its ability to draw human capital in. This went beyond the hands and legs that were needed and encouraged the coming together of diverse cultures, the flowering of ideas, and with it, the growth in intellectual capital. Singapore’s capacity for interaction and exchange provided a competitive edge and an ability to adapt to the technological developments of the day. The world was on the cusp of a wave of globalisation, and Singapore stood to regain its position as as great regional port.

P&O Steam Navigation Company’s Boundary Marker at New Harbour dated 1850.

The building of New Harbour’s first wharves in the 1850s would be a turning point for Singapore. Erected by the Peninsular and Orient Steam Navigation Company (P&O) at Tebing Tinggi to service their steamers, they set the development of New Harbour in motion. P&O’s steamers carried the mail. Moved through the Mediterranean, then overland to the Red Sea, and then across to the subcontinent, mail made the last leg of its journey to Singapore by steamer from India. The first steamers to be seen here were slow and cumbersome. Highly inefficient, they also had a huge thirst for coal. Coaling was a long and tedious effort. Initially, coal was stored upriver and carried by barge or lighter to steamships at anchor. The construction of deepwater wharves at New Harbour made the still labour intensive process a lot more efficient.

Singapore was a major coaling station as can be seen in this G.R. Lambert Panorama showing New Harbour in way of the former Purvis, Jardine and Borneo Wharves in the late 1800s, with coaling sheds in the foreground. Pulau Brani with the Government Coal Sheds and Kampong Telok Saga, can be seen with Pulau Blakang Mati (now Sentosa) behind it.
Photograph: Rijksmuseum (Public Domain)

The use of steam to power ships at this point had still a long way to go. Steamships could not compete with fuel-free wind powered ships. Steamships of the day carried sails for this reason, with steam machinery providing only the advantage of some measure of certainty in scheduling. Sailing ships still carried much of the world’s cargo. The installation of steam machinery sacrificed valuable volume. It wasn’t just that of ship’s hold for the engines, but also the volume to carry a sufficient quantity of coal to move the ship to its next coaling station.

The Agamemnon, which was fitted with a highly efficient compound steam engine, was launched in the mid-1860s by Liverpool-based Alfred Holt’s Ocean Steam Ship Company (later also known as Blue Funnel Line). The company would be closely associated with their agents Mansfield and Company, and the Straits Steamships Company (National Museums Liverpool).

While the adoption of the screw propeller obtained improvements in propulsive efficiency and a reduction in coal consumption, it would take much more to see the age of the steamship take off. Advances made in steel processing for example, made the high strength material more affordable. Its usefulness was not just in making ships longer and lighter, but also in permitting steam to be produced at higher pressures. Ultimately, it was Alfred Holt’s introduction of a highly-efficient compound steam engine in the mid-1860s, which could cut coal consumption by half, coupled with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 that would do the trick. The passage through the canal and the Red Sea passage made the steam powered ship a necessity due to the opposing wind conditions that would be encountered.

HC Nemesis, the first iron steamer to round the Cape of Good Hope, was also the first iron warship. It was deployed to good effect during the First Opium War by the HEIC and was also seen in Singapore waters. The twin-masted paddle steamer relied on sail power as all steamers did during 19th century to reduce the consumption of coal. Engraving: Royal Museums Greenwich.

Investment in wharfage, coaling sheds and graving facilities through the 1850s and 1860s by New Harbour Dock Company and Tanjong Pagar Dock Company, meant that Singapore was in an excellent position as the new generation of ships multiplied. Already a main naval coaling station for the British and French naval fleets involved in their respective thrusts into the Pearl River delta and Indochina, Singapore became an key coal bunker station for the growing merchant fleet supporting the China and India trade. Singapore was set on its way to becoming one of the world’s principal ports, a position that it still holds today.

Wharves at Tanjong Pagar built by the Tanjong Pagar Dock Company. The first wharves built by the company were completed in 1866.

(To be continued)





Panguni Uthiram 2025

13 04 2025

Photographs of Panguni Uthiram 2025

See also:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DISv578SMi8/
https://www.instagram.com/p/DIR5AXlTGBr/

Panguni Uthiram in previous years:





Chingay in JB, a feast for the senses

25 02 2025

Johor Bahru’s Chingay is quite a spectacle to behold. Where Singapore’s modern take on the southern Chinese tradition of youshen, or procession of dieties, is contained and choreographed, the JB parade is an unabashed expression of faith, unity, and community spirit. The JB parade, which has been around for some 150 years. Except for 1942, when the war came, JB’s Chingay has been held annually since the 1870s.

The festival takes place from the 19th to 22nd day of the Lunar New Year. It sees the five main deities of JB’s old Chinese temple at Jalan Trus, each worshipped by one of the five community-based Chinese clans of JB, taken on a city tour. Carried on palanquins and accompanied by much ceremony, the gods are brought over to Xing Gong temple, taken through nighttime JB, before being returned home.

The nighttime parade, with takes place on the 21st day of the New Year, sees crowds in the hundreds of thousands thronging the streets of JB’s city centre. That is the highlight of the event, when an energetic kilometres-long column of brightly illuminated floats, dancers, stilt-walkers, lion and dragon dancers and performers balancing giant flags, keep the deities company.

The parades of the early days were also known to have attracted large crowds. This included many Singapore-based Chinese who packed the trains, even if its meant the inconvenience of a steam ferry crossing from Woodlands (from the time the trains were up and running in April 1903 to October 1923, when railway operations commenced across the still uncompleted causeway). The expatriate community were however much less impressed, with Chingay seen as one of the “discomforts” of what would have seemed to be a long drawn celebration of Chinese New Year.


Chingay on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) of Humanity?

Malaysia and Singapore is submitting a joint bid to have Chingay placed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) of Humanity in March 2025, on the basis of it being a street parade that showcases multiculturalism, traditions, and artistic displays of communities. More information on the joint bid can be found in this media release (please click.






Festive Blues

14 01 2025

Photographs of Chinatown and its Chinese New Year street bazaar during the rain-washed weekend.





Pongal in the Village of Lime

13 01 2025

Singapore is a city of festivals. First up s the Tamil communityโ€™s celebration of Pongal, the harvest festival โ€” a time of the year when sugarcane and other fruits of the harvest, colour Soonambu Kambam โ€” the Village of Lime, a neighbourhood that we know today as Little India,.





Life returns to 5 Kadayanallur Street

23 12 2024

No 5 Kadayanallur Street, the former St Andrew’s Mission Hospital, looks fresh and new in its makeover as โ€˜KADAโ€™. The latest addition to Chinatownโ€™s developing lifestyle scene began its life just a little over a hundred years ago in 1923. Built as a hospital for poor women and children, it was shuttered following a hit during a Japanese air raid on 17 December 1941 before being reopened in April 1942 as the Syonan Byoin. After the war, it featured as the Government Medical Store for two decades before it last found long-term use as the Maxwell Road Outpatient Dispensary or OPD until the end of the 1990s. It also featured as a temporary corporate headquarters for CK Tang Ltd in the 2010s.

The building has been the subject of a number of tours that I have conducted to it since 2018. A lot more interesting on the inside than it is from the outside, it features an old lift that should not be missed. Retrofitted in 1929, the lift was used to carry children suffering from tuberculosis of the bones from their wards on the ground floor to the roof. The warmth of the sun brought relief to sufferers of the particularly painful disease. As any attempt to move would have caused extreme pain, the child patients could only be moved bed and all to up to the roof, requiring the installation of the lift โ€“ now Singaporeโ€™s oldest!

More information:


Photographs of KADA






The beauty of Adam Park

21 12 2024

Adam Park is a beautiful colonial residential estate that was recently in the news, having been earmarked for conservation. Built from 1928 to 1932, the estate’s 19 residences housed Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT) and Municipal officers. The residences are among 500 residences that have been described as ‘black and white’ houses. The common term relates more to their appearance, rather than architectural style. This appearance is given to them by their typical whitewashed walls and black trimmings.

A visit to Adam Park as part of my ‘Discovering Singapore’s Best Kept Secrets’ series of tours in 2017. No 7 Adam Park, which was built as bachelors quarters for Singapore Improvement Trust officers, is pictured.
The houses visited in 2017 included the house that featured a POW chapel and canteen (No. 11 Adam Park). A POW painted mural rediscovered in 2015, lies behind a false wall in a room in the house.

Here’s an entry on the estate that I wrote for Uncommon Ground: The Places You Know, The Stories You Don’t, as well as some photographs that I have taken in the estate:

Adam Parkโ€™s 19 black-and-white houses give the quiet residential quarter a sense of the typical estate that was built for the colonial administrator as a comfortable home away from home. The familiar facades, however, hide the marks of a more tumultuous period, when the area functioned as a Prisoner-of-War (POW) camp with more than 3,000 men crammed into many of the estateโ€™s undamaged houses and service buildings.

Built as residences for Municipal officers and Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT) officers from 1928 to 1932, the 19 unitsโ€”five of which were designated as Class I bungalows and the rest Class IIIโ€”are of standard Public Works Department (PWD) designs (the designations are tied to the seniority of their intended occupants). Several interesting personalities lived within the estate, among which included Phillip Cooper Sands, a Municipal Electrical Engineer and nephew of the famous Frank Cooper Sands who was the founder of scouting in Singapore.

The charmed life of Adam Parkโ€™s inhabitants would come to an abrupt end with the arrival of the war. With the threat of invasion, the estate was abandoned in February 1941 and would actually experience devastation on 15 February 1942 when some of the last battles were fought there before Singaporeโ€™s fall.

From April 1942 to January 1943, a few of Adam Parkโ€™s houses were used to accommodate some 2,000 Australian and 1,000 British POWs as they built the Syonan Jinja shrine at the nearby MacRitchie Reservoir. The Shinto worship place was constructed to commemorate the first anniversary of the Japanese capture of Singapore. The jinja is depicted in a set of sketches made by an Australian POW Pte Robert Boyed Mitchell, who thought the shrine beautiful even if he hated his captors.

The set of drawings also contains illustrations that depict a bomb-damaged Adam Park house identified as the POW chapel and canteen. They also included sketches of the murals that were painted by another POW, Captain Eric Andrews, to decorate the chapel. The house, which was repaired, remained forgotten with its murals hidden under several coats of paint. It wasnโ€™t until 2015 that the murals were seen again as a result of the Adam Park Project, a battlefield archaeology effort initiated in 2009 by Jon Cooper, which made a positive identification of the chapel house.

The seven-year project also yielded a wealth of physical evidence that was used to provide a more detailed picture of the battles that took place on the estate grounds.

Another piece of POW life that recently surfaced is a calendar that was maintained by a POWโ€”it was discovered in an annex to one of the houses. The calendar, dated from September to December 1942, is marked with the word โ€œPAYโ€ on days when the POW was paid. The money he earned could apparently be used in the canteen located within the chapel.

Today, the houses, including the chapel house, are well restored and the chapel murals have been placed behind a fibreboard panel for protection. One house, No. 7, has a particularly interesting past. Originally configured for SITโ€™s bachelor officers, it was where the 1st Cambridgeshire Regiment defending Adam Park from 12 to 15 February 1942 had their headquarters. From 1987 to 2014, the National University of Singapore Society used it as a clubhouse. The unit is currently being transformed into an academy.

ย 





Kenri Tsutada: Legacy of a Japanese Dentist in Singapore

7 12 2024

Singapore of a hundred years ago was home to a community of Japanese, which numbered as many as three and a half thousand at its height. The community began forming in the 1870s with the arrival of the karayuki-san โ€” unfortunate women from impoverished parts of Japan, primarily Shimabara and Amakusa, who came in large numbers to work in the vice trade. With their arrival, businesses catering to the needs of the karayuki-san followed. Sundry shopkeepers, photographers, drapers, doctors, and dentists, soon populated the area close to where the brothels employing the karayuki-san were located at Malay, Hylam, Malabar and Bugis Streets โ€” where Bugis Junction stands today. Such was the concentration of Japanese businesses in the area that Middle Road became the community’s ‘Central Street’, or ‘Chuo Dori‘. A Japanese Club also featured at Selegie Road, along with an elementary school, a permanent building for which was erected at Waterloo Street in 1920 . A cemetery was established for the community at Chuan Hoe Avenue, which is the Japanese Cemetery Park today.

The corner of Hylam and Malay Streets from an old postcard (c. 1930s), where a well-known brothel operated at.

The rising tensions between Britain and Imperial Japan in the 1920s and 1930s cast a shadow over the community, with its members viewed with increasingly suspicion. Japan’s actions in Manchuria in 1931 and in China from 1937 would sow further distrust and lead to boycotts of Japanese businesses. As Japan’s ambitions grew, a number in the community were recruited to carry out intelligence gathering activities, although a number in the community continued in very much the same way as they had. Some had in fact become well integrated within the intercultural social fabric of cosmopolitan Singapore, especially those whose links to the island spanned several generations. Many in the group benefited from being educated in the colonyโ€™s excellent mission schools and became conversant both in English and the colony’s commonly spoken languages such as Malay.

Japanese run establishments along North Bridge Road, 1941 (section now occupied by an extension of Raffles Hotel) Harrison Forman Collection.

Among the beneficiaries of a Singapore mission school education were members of the Tsutada family, who were based at Bras Basah Road. The family’s patriarch, Kenri (also spelled Kenry or Henry), was a dentist who advertised the ability to speak English and Malay. A staunch Christian, Kenri was a second-generation Methodist who had been educated at Singaporeโ€™s Anglo-Chinese School or ACS before moving back to Japan where he received his training as a dentist. Having qualified as a dentist, Kenri moved back to Singapore, setting up his practice at 74 Bras Basah Road at the end of a row of shophouses right across the road from the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Good Shepherd. Kenri’s motivation in coming back to Singapore was to provide what was to become a large family of at least nine children with a Christian upbringing and a multi-cultural outlook.

K Tsutada’s dental clinic at No 74 Bras Basah Road. The family also occupied No 74-1.

Like Kenri, his children were sent to the colonyโ€™s mission schools. Sons went to Kenriโ€™s alma mater, ACS, while his daughters attended Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus, before most headed back to Japan to complete their tertiary education. A son Peter, however, stayed on in Singapore to qualify as a dentist at Singaporeโ€™s King Edward VII College of Medicine.

Anglo Chinese School along Coleman Street (current site of National Archives of Singapore)

The Tsutada’s provided their children with an upbringing that was typical of a privileged upper middle-class family in Singapore. They had music lessons and participated in sports. Kenri Tsutada was after all, a man with sufficient means. Besides running a dental practice, he maintained several business interests, including one importing health equipment. Kenri also owned the 180-acre Chitose rubber plantation in Lim Chu Kang, and a pineapple canning plant in North Bridge Road.

While he may have seemed to have had his hands full, Kenri Tsutada also found time for ministry. Prayer meetings for Japanese members of the Methodist congregation were held at his Bras Basah Road home and clinic. He also held the ambition of growing the Japanese congregation in Singapore and eventually building a Japanese Methodist Church, and persevered with his mission even after the sudden death of his wife in 1926, aged 43. He was also known to hold family prayer sessions that lasted hours.

List of Japanese Planters in Malaya and the Straits Settlements in 1918. K Tsutada’s 180 acre Chitose Estate was also listed

Kenri Tsutadaโ€™s efforts would have a significant impact on his children. His second son, David Tsugio, answered the call of God while reading law in Cambridge. David, who was imprisoned for his beliefs by Japanese authorities from 1942 to 1943, went on to establish the Immanuel General Mission in Tokyo and was known as the โ€œJohn Wesley of Japanโ€.

David Tsugio Tsutada visiting Singapore in 1960.

War and a Stern Test of Faith

With tensions rising between Japan and Britain, the Tsutadas made a painful decision to move back to Japan not long before the outbreak of hostilities between Japan and Britain during the Second World War. One of Kenri Tsutadaโ€™s sons, Joseph Nanao[1], would however find himself back in the area as an interpreter with the Imperial Japanese Army during the Second World War during their Malaya and Singapore campaign. While in Singapore, Jospeh sought out several of his former teachers, schoolmates, and neighbours.

One of Josephโ€™s classmates at ACS was Heng Chiang Ki, who thought of Joseph as a โ€œnice boyโ€ and an โ€œardent Christianโ€. He recalled that Joseph made an unsuccessful attempt to look for him at his Emerald Hill home in the early days of the Japanese Occupation but had left the address of his Lloyd Road quarters with Hengโ€™s mother. With the address Heng was able to meet with Joseph. While Josephโ€™s intentions for initiating the meeting were not clear, the attempt was made during the two-week period of the Sook Ching purge early in the Occupation. Heng’s absence during Joseph’s visit had in fact been due to Heng having to report to a Sook Ching screening centre. While it does not seem like Joseph had a hand in Hengโ€™s release, he was known to have given protection to at least two other during the purge. In one known instance, Joseph issued a protection certificate to Thio Chan Bee, his teacher at ACS, who recalled this in his memoirs, โ€œExtraordinary Adventures of an Ordinary Manโ€ [2].ย 

Another person who was a beneficiary of Josephโ€™s kindness was Dr Lee Choo Neo, Singaporeโ€™s first practising female doctor and the aunt of Singaporeโ€™s first Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew. Dr Lee had her clinic and home at No 74-3 Bras Basah Road, just two doors down from Kenri Tsutadaโ€™s dental practice and residence at No 74 and 74-1. Her adopted children were playmates of the Tsutada children. Beside extending protection during Sook Ching to Dr Lee, her immediate family, and the extended Lee family who had taken shelter at Dr Leeโ€™s clinic, Joseph was also had a hand in providing Dr Lee with a pass which allowed her to keep and continue using her car, which was essential to her medical practice.[3]

Lee Choo Neoโ€™s dispensary and residence. Singapore, c 1930s. Photograph: Collection of Mrs Vera Teo.

What was not apparent to those who Joseph protected was his state of mind at the time. Joseph Tsutada had in fact been in a state of torment in the wake an incident that had occurred just weeks earlier involving a downed New Zealand pilot that was weighing heavily on his conscience.

Joseph Tsutada acted as an interpreter in the interrogation of the pilot named Paul Michael’ who was captured shortly after Kuala Lumpur fell in mid-January 1942. The pilot’s refusal to divulge information desired by the interrogators would see him condemned to a senseless death. Much to Josephโ€™s horror, he and a fellow officer were given the unthinkable task of beheading the pilot, which went against Josephโ€™s Christian beliefs. The task was also made harder as Joseph had established a with the pilot. Joseph had learnt that the pilot shared his Methodist faith and had spent the entire night before he was given the order by the condemned airmanโ€™s side in an act of Christian fellowship.

As Joseph faced his biggest test of faith, struggling with the thought of having to carry out a act that went against every grain of his beliefs on a man who shared his faith, Paul came to accept that his death was inevitable. Through Paulโ€™s persuasion โ€” he told Joseph that he would rather die at his new-found friendโ€™s hands than those of any other, reminding Joseph that disobedience was likely to result in Joseph suffering the same fate โ€” Joseph committed an act that he was to burden him for the rest of his life.

The guilt and regret was a huge emotional burden for Joseph to carry and this could have been a factor that motivated Josephโ€™s actions during Sook Ching. He would find the strength to confront some of the demons haunting him on the anniversary of the incident in February 1943, while stationed in Port Dickson in Negri Sembilan. Making a confession to the Port Dickson Methodist Church, Joseph gave an extraordinary testimony that was filled with emotion and contrition, in which he described in detail the circumstances that led to the act for which he felt a deep sense of remorse and shame. Concluding his testimony, Joseph said: โ€œPaulโ€™s face is ever before me. My conscience tells me I should not have done this, and I ask your prayer on my behalf that God may forgive me if I have trespassed His law in the course of my duties.โ€[4]

Joseph Tsutada asked that his testimony be made public when peace returned. He continued to attend services at the Port Dickson church until he was posted out a few months before the Japanese August 1945 surrender. While his name appears on the South East Asia Commandโ€™s records of war crimes suspects โ€“ he was listed as a suspect in the execution of Paul Michael, there appears to be no record of him being prosecuted. He return to Japan and is thought to have passed away in the 1970s.

Entry on Joseph Tsutada in the UN War Crimes Commission List of Japanese Suspects

Kenri Tsutada’s Lasting Legacy

Among the tragedies of the Second World War in Singapore, the atrocities associated with the Imperial Japanese Army are among the most shocking. Sook Ching alone resulted in the deaths of tens of thousands. It had left a lasting impact that is still felt by many families.

These events have also overshadowed the many contributions that were made by the members of Singaporeโ€™s pre-war community of Japanese, whose stories have been consigned into the back pages of history. Many, like the Tsutadas lived as many of our grandparents and great grandparents did, as members of a wider Singaporean society, contributing in many ways to making Singapore what it is today. With the outbreak of war, many in the community faced a moral dilemma of serving more than one master, as Joseph Tsutada did.

There remains little doubt however of the contributions made by Kenri Tsutada and his family, and the legacy he has left from his time in Singapore. War may have disrupted or even put an end to some of what Kenri may have set out to do in Singapore, but the work that he started in his humble Bras Basah home and clinic more than a hundred years ago continues to this very day. Many of Kenri’s descendants are currently active in Christian ministry and the dissemination of the very values he imparted to his children in Singapore all those years ago.ย  ย 


[1] The name โ€œNanaoโ€ indicates that Joseph was the seventh child.

[2] Josephโ€™s Japanese name is recorded as ‘Nanao’ in Thio Chan Beeโ€™s memoirs, and ‘Nanoa’ in an oral history interview.ย 

[3] From an account contained in โ€œChinese Womenโ€™s Association One Hundred Fabulous Yearsโ€ in which Joseph is identified as โ€œNachengโ€.

[4] Rev. ‘J. W. A. Kadirgamar, A Wartime Tragedy Full of Christian Heroism. New Zealand Methodist Times, March 2, 1946, Page 333.





Restoring Faith

24 11 2024

The beautiful St. Joseph’s Church has always had a place in my heart. It was the church at which my late mother received her sacraments as a child, were I often attended mass and Good Friday services in my youth and is one of few constants in the sea of change that has washed across much of the Bras Basah.Bugis precinct. Having closed for renovation and restoration in August 2017, the resplendently restore church building finally reopened on 30th June 2002.

The effort to restore the church, which is the only Portuguese heritage church in Singapore, recently won an award for conservation at URA’s 2024 Architectural Heritage Awards. Among the efforts that was involved in restoring the 1912-built monument were repairs on masonry cracks, undulating floors, extensive timber work including on the roof trusses, ceiling and stained-glass window frames, and a sagging choir loft.

Having spent quite a fair sum of money to restore the church, that is no guarantee that St. Joseph’s Church will retain the use of the site, whose lease is soon expiring. Some SGD 4 to 5 million is required for the church to renew its lease of the site for a 30-year term by February 2025, which the church is in the process of raising.






Parting Glances: Singapore Turf Club at Kranji

8 10 2024

After 182 years, horse racing in Singapore has like many things of the old and familiar world, passed into history with the last race at the Singapore Turf Club held at 5.40 pm on Saturday 5 October, 2024.


Singapore’s need to intensify land use does mean that the closing of the chapter was going to be a matter of time. While substantial revenue is derived from the horse racing, the 120 hectares that the turf club occupies will go a long way to satisfy Singapore’s insatiable appetite for development, especially in the area of public housing and a decision was made to bring a premature end to the sport โ€” if I may call it that.

Feeling the horse racing blues.

Horse racing was introduced to Singapore through the formation of the Singapore Sporting Club by Scotsman William Henry Macleod Read and a group of enthusiasts. The first race course was established in 1843 on a site that would become Farrer Park following a move to Bukit Timah (see: Parting Glances: the boxing gym at Farrer Park). With the exception for the war years, the Bukit Timah site was used as a racecourse from 1933 to July 1999, after which the course moved to its current site in Kranji (see: The great โ€œhold upโ€ at the sixth mile and The last, and soon to be lost countryside).

While horse racing may have exited the scene, it is something that we in Singapore will find hard to forget. Buying beh pio (้ฉฌ็ฅจ) โ€” literally horse tickets in Hokkien, for example, is an unescapable part of being Singaporean. Beh pio is used colloquially to refer to 4D, or four digit lottery, which many queue in order to place a bet on. The 4D lottery does in fact have origins in horse racing, with sequences of four numbers drawn and assigned to horses running in the race, hence the term “starters” applied to the tier of winning numbers that follow the top three.

Emcee Belinda Lee has her fans!

Winning, literally striking (the) horse ticket”, tio beh pio (ไธญ้ฉฌ็ฅจ), is another term that is commonly used. Also used generally to refer to describe a fortuitous situation, it can also mean the opposite when the usage of the term is tinged with sarcasm, like when one is unlucky enough to draw the short end of the straw. And, to check if one had indeed tio beh pio in the pre-internet era, one would have turned to the evening newspaper โ€” mah piu poh, literally “horse ticket newspaper” in Cantonese, which carried the day’s horse racing and 4D lottery results (see: The Mah Piu Poh intersection vendors).

No horse run!

Another commonly heard expression in colloquial Hokkien, bo beh chao (ๆฒก้ฉฌ่ตฐ) or “no horse run”, has its origins in horse racing to refer to a horse that is well ahead of the field. It will however be no horse run in the literal sense for the Singapore Turf Club. Having run its last race, it will continue to stay on the Kranji site for a few more years and run it as an event venue until March 2027, after which the grounds will be handed over for redevelopment.

A winning smile!

Parting glances

Final Day Scenes

Around the grounds






The Chinese and Japanese Gardens reinterpreted

9 09 2024

Together with Jurong Bird Park and Jurong Hill Park, the Chinese and Japanese Gardens made up an ensemble of parks and garden attractions developed in the Jurong of the 1970s. An emphasis was placed on making the new industrial town of Jurong a more attractive to live and play in. Some 12% of the initial land area allocated to the industrial endeavour was set aside for parks and gardens to give it a greener and softer side. Set up across a set of artificial islands in Jurong Lake โ€“ a body of water formed by damming up the upper reaches of the Jurong River to secure water for industrial use, the two themed gardens captured the imagination of Singaporeans and quickly counted among the go-to destinations for outdoor wedding photoshoots.

Bonsai Garden, Chinese Garden

Jointly funded by the Japanese and Singapore Governments, the Japanese Garden or Seiwaen was designed by Professor Kinsaku Nakane of the Nakane Garden Research Institute and Osaka University of Fine Arts based on the gardens of the Muromachi period (1392โ€“1568) and the Momoyama period (1568โ€“1615). The Japanese Garden opened in February 1973, and visitors were charged an entrance fee of 40 cents per adult and 20 cents per child.

The Chinese Garden or Yu Hwa Yuan (Yuhua Yuan) on the other hand was developed with assistance provided through the Taiwanese Trade Mission and based on a concept developed for free by Taiwanese Professor Yuen-chen Yu. It opened in April 1975 and visitors were also charged for admission. A Bonsai Garden, designed in the Suzhou-style, was added in 1992.

Interest in the two gardens however waned over time and following plans made by NParks to incorporate the two into a larger Jurong Lake Gardens in 2014, they closed for redevelopment in May 2019 and the refreshed gardens were reopened on Sunday 8 September 2024.



Here’s a look at some of the spots in the rejuvenated gardens that caught my eye:


Bonsai Garden (Chinese Garden)

Amongst the parts of the older incarnations of the Chinese Garden that have been retained and enhanced, the 1992 Suzhou-style Bonsai Garden has to be the prettiest. The garden features a curated collection of nine bonsai specimens that have been put up in collaboration with Jin Bonsai spread across its courtyards and offers lots of photo opportunities.


Water Lily Garden and Pavilion (Japanese Garden)

The garden is home to the largest collection of water lilies in Singapore, with over 150 varieties spread across terraced ponds. Boardwalks, as well as the Water Lily Pavilion provide some stunning perspectives of the water lily filled ponds.


Sunken Garden (Japanese Garden)

The sunken garden is a wet and wild space that features trickling water, lush green walls on which epiphytes such as orchids, ferns and mosses thrive on. Its centrepiece is a water feature inspired by a cenote โ€“ a deep natural well or sinkhole formed by the collapse of surface limestone that exposes groundwater underneath. There is even a cafรฉ that awaits discovery in the garden!


Breathing Gallery (Japanese Garden)

An indoor vivarium that houses terrariums, aquariums and paludariums โ€“ a nice quiet space to literally chill out in.


Lotus Pond, Stone Boat and Tea House (Chinese Garden)

The Louts Pond around which the the Stone Boat and Tea House is laid out, provides wonderful vistas โ€“ not only of the two familiar landmarks, but also of another two familiar sights, the Cloud Pagoda and the Twin Pagodas.


Twin Pagodas (Chinese Garden)

While there is limited access the taller Cloud Pagoda, the pair of 3-storey Twin Pagodas are fully accessible and provide wonderful views of Jurong Lake.


Grand Arch and Edible Garden (Chinese Garden)

The Grand Arch is the familiar welcome that visitors see once they cross the While Rainbow Bridge. Today, a new timber building has been integrated with it, featuring the Jurong Lake Gardens Gallery and a restaurant. Beyond it is the Edible Garden, which features common edible flowers, herbs and spices.


The Guesthouse, Guest Pavilion, Teahouse and Resthouse (Japanese Garden)

The Guesthouse, constructed of mass-engineered timber and featuring passive displacement cooling serves as an event space that can accommodate up to 1000 people. Next to it is the glass-enclosed Guest Pavilion that offers views of the pool and surroundings. Another event space is the Japanese-style Teahouse.

There is also the existing Resthouse, which now enhanced with WCs, serves as a resting space as well as a sheltered space for community activities.


The Floral Garden in the Japanese Garden showcases some of the items associated with the original garden such as a bridge and stone lanterns.
The Floral Garden in the Japanese Garden decked up for Lights by the Lake. Held in conjunction with the Mid-Autumn Festuival, Lights by the Lake runs from 8 to 22 Sep 2024 and features the largest lantern display this year with more than 300 lanterns. More information can be found at: https://lightsbythelake.nparks.gov.sg/
The Japanese Garden.




The Pope’s Buenos Aires

7 09 2024

As Singapore and its Catholic community were preparing to welcome Pope Francis, who arrives here in a matter of days, I found myself halfway across the world in Buenos Aires. The Argentine capital, which was of course the home city of the first Latin American Pope before his election in March 2013 โ€” when he was known as Jorge Mario Bergoglio, doesn’t hesitate to remind the visitor this fact.

It is along the characterful Avenida Rivadavia, which runs east-west across as one of the sprawling cityโ€™s main arteries that one finds quite a number of sites associated with the Pope. Also the city’s longest street, the 23-mile avenue serves as a social divide that as Canadian author Marc Raboy in his book Lookยญing for Aliยญcia: The Unfinยญished Life of an Argenยญtinยญianย Rebel has as the line separating the cityโ€™s โ€œleafy, more affluent middle-class north” and the “gritty, working class southโ€. The avenue is however one that serves more as a connector, linking the western barrios to the city’s heart at the Plaza de Mayo, close to which the Greek temple-like Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral stands. It was there that the the Pope as Cardinal Jorge Bergoglio and the Archbishop of Buenos Aires โ€” a role he held for 15 years, made his last stop in Argentina before making the journey to Rome.

Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral.
Mausoleum of Josรฉ de San Martรญn, the liberator of Argentina, in the Metropolitan Cathedral.
A symbol of peace โ€” an olive tree planted by the then Cardinal Jorge Bergoglio in 2000 in the Plaza de Mayo. The Metropolitan Cathedral can be seen in the background across the Avenida Rivadavia.

Flores – The Childhood Barrio of the Pope

Plaza General Pueyrredรณn, with Basรญlica de San Josรฉ de Flores across Avenida Rivadavia.
A shopfront along Av. Rivadavia in Flores.

Once known as the Camino de Flores, Avenida Rivadavia, also leads to Flores โ€” the barrio that featured in Jorge Bergoglio’s formative years. Located in the geographic centre of the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires, the barrio is one littered with sites associated with the popeโ€™s childhood, one of which is the church in which a 17-year-old Jorge Bergoglio first heard the call to religious life. The confessional at which this occurred in March 1953 is preserved in the church, Basรญlica de San Josรฉ de Flores.

Basรญlica de San Josรฉ de Flores
The confessional in Basรญlica de San Josรฉ de Flores at which a 17-year-old Jorge Bergoglio was “called”.
The interior of Basรญlica de San Josรฉ de Flores
Where Jorge Mario Bergoglio was born on 17 December 1936
The address along Av. Varela in Flores where Jorge Mario Bergoglio was born on 17 December 1936
Where the very young Jorge Mario Bergoglio went to school along Av. Varela
Another view of the school that Jorge Mario Bergoglio attended.
The small square, Plazoleta Herminia Brumana in Flores, where Jorge Mario Bergoglio hung out with friends.
A marker on the ground of the plazoleta.
The site of a house along Membrillar in Flores in which the young Jorge Mario Bergoglio lived, close to the plazoleta
Instituto Nuestra Seรฑora de la Misericordia, where Jorge Mario Bergoglio attended kindergarten
Iglesia Nuestra Seรฑora de la Misericordia where Jorge Mario Bergoglio went for catechism classes and received his First Holy Communion

Almagro

Almagro counts a one of Buenos Aires’ most densely populated barrios. It is also home to the beautifully decorated Basรญlica de San Carlos y Marรญa Auxiliadora โ€” where the infant Jorge Mario Bergoglio was baptised on Christmas Day, 1936. The church, which was completed in 1910 also features an upper sanctuary from which stunning views of the interior can be taken in. Another church in Almagro that featured in the Pope’s life is the Parroquiaย Santa Marรญa y Caballito โ€” the scene of a eucharistic miracle that occurred in 1996 in which as Auxiliary Bishop of Buenos Aires, Jorge Bergoglio also witnessed.

The beautifully decorated Basรญlica de San Carlos y Marรญa Auxiliadora in the barrio of Almagro at which Jorge Mario Bergoglio was baptised on Chirstmas Day, 1936
Parroquiaย Santa Marรญa y Caballito
Parroquiaย Santa Marรญa y Caballito








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