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A Peek Inside

The blog is no longer updated; however it holds our fond memories and stories of:

Foreign Service Life;  Post: Muscat, Oman

Foreign Service Life;  Post: Maputo, Mozambique

Travels: Paris, India, Egypt, Germany, Jordan, Prague, The Netherlands, USA, South Africa, Oman, Swaziland, Mozambique, Turkey

Safaris/African Wildlife: Mozambique, Swaziland, South Africa, Kruger National Park

Foreign Service Life; Post: Ankara, Turkey

References: Posts in Beijing, and The Hague

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To see how our post in Turkey finished, or where we are now – please head on over to our new location. Link on the right.

 

This is an official invitation, and reminder, to join Nomads By Nature over at our new blog: NBN: The Adventures Continue, if you haven’t already! Our Turkey time is winding down and Namibia is approaching quickly. We’d love to have you tag along for the ride, sharing our adventures with us and to hear your comments and questions. Please pop over! (you can just click that red NBN and it will take you there — or look to your right and get a glimpse of the latest posted over at our new ‘digs’.)

Dakota is most of the way through her first semester at college. How did that happen so quickly!??

We are running out of room on this blog so I started up a new one here at Nomads By Nature to continue documenting our Foreign Service experiences for ourselves, family and friends, and for anyone interested in what the FS looks like from the family perspective. I was gonna try to do some fancy things with it and then just got caught up in the goings-on bit, so blogging took a bit of a back seat. Hoping to make amends — please come and visit our new location: Nomads By Nature: The Adventures Continue!

Also in the moving theme, we know where we are headed next:

This happened:DSC_7552_s

Which led to this:

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My mom made it in from the States to be there. Add two good friends from post and we had us a party going on! I asked the Amazing M to be in charge of photos since I couldn’t seem to hold still enough to take a non-blurry shot. This guy also took photos before the ceremony, with that same friend’s camera. He was later seen raiding sampling the entire buffet before most families made it there from final photo ops.

 

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Both schools ended. PTSO wrapped up and is OVER! Jackson went on his class trip to the Black Sea where he prepared for the Zombie Apocalypse. I took my mom and daughter to Istanbul for a few days. This was part of the morning view from our rooftop breakfast.

P1100440The stories and places explored within the city will leak out slowly these next few weeks. It will be my summer project now that life is slowing down a bit and we have some days to breath and catch up. We also took my mom here for a few days and discovered some important information about the layout of the land that I will share with you, my dear readers. Stay tuned!

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And now is Boy Scouts camp in Anatalya along the Mediterranean Coast: sailing, snorkeling, archery, swimming, shooting, camping, learning, playing and apparently escaping a raging forest fire that came within 50 feet of them.  I have been assured that it wasn’t them that started it. Here is a clip from the news. While he was escaping and evading the flames, we were attending/working the 4th of July embassy family celebration here in Ankara that came with a massive electrical storm rolling in in lieu of the planned fireworks. Nothing like evacuating to take shelter while the sky flashed wildly above.

The new graduate is experiencing her first summer job at the embassy and realizing that first jobs are meant to be the incentive to keep you in school and finishing college. I believe that the words out of her mouth when coming home on her first day were, “Started work and the first day in the real world is kind of disappointing”. Since that epiphany she has bent to the tasks set before her and found that although the real world may seem a bit monotonous on the surface, really you can’t write fiction better than reality.

That Boy

That boy use to be a baby, with plump little cheeks that begged for kisses despite traces of his latest snack. He moved silently and super quick when he wanted. His eye would scan a room and find the one thing he just had to check out, which many times was off limits. His curiosity has always been endless. His hands always had to touch and check things out. His mind was always negotiating the terms and boundaries.

Now that he is a tween, his cheeks aren’t as rounded. And when I try to kiss them, it can’t be in front of friends. Or in public.

And there is the shadow of what could be a mustache in a few more years.

So it makes sense that the school would think that my baby was ready to go on a four day hiking adventure to the Black Sea with his class. He explored the tea region of Rize and climbed up to the Sumela Monastery which is what this photo below is all about. Notice how is it perched on a steep cliff.

 

The Sumela Monastery – photo from Wikipedia

My not so baby had a packing list that he diligently followed so they could hike in rain or shine. He also had to deal with some pain and an inability to eat well due to an untimely start of orthodontia. It will be a rough couple of months I think. Regardless though, he went off on his adventures of a plane ride, bus rides, hiking, exploring, learning, hot springing, more hiking and then some more of all of it again. And there was the market visit which we were asked to make sure they had some spending money for.

That sweet boy of mine bought me a big box of loose Turkish black tea to enjoy. And he also bought out the wooden handmade weapons store apparently. Which is why the first thing he greeted me with when bounding off the bus that delivered our precious babies back to us was, “Hey, Mom, I am SO PREPARED for a Zombie Apocalypse!”

That boy!

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Note to self: less spending money. Note to my readers: my Zombie slayer son, beyond exhausted from his adventures, is now passed out on the sofa and he takes up the whole couch. If he was a few years younger I’d plant his weapons on him and take a picture, but he is too old to do that. And he is fast now. And obviously weaponized.

 

 

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Carpet and Kilim Vendors

Hat Vendor

Hat Vendor

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Shoe Vendor

A Trinkets Vendor at the top of the hill and the bottom of the castle.

A Trinkets Vendor at the top of the hill and the bottom of the castle.

 

Basket Vendors. This is also the stray cat transit route from the bottom of the hill to the tops of the homes and businesses.

Basket Vendors. This is also the stray cat transit route from the bottom of the hill to the tops of the homes and businesses.

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She made that climb look so easy even with that belly.

She made that climb look so easy even with that belly.

Coffin Vendor

Coffin Vendor

P1080671Dakota came home from prom with a Belly Dancing wardrobe. It seems the tiaras and crowns for the “royal court” disappeared sometime earlier in the day, so a quick run to the market was made and a bit of Turkey made it into prom night history.

Pull up a chair and sit with me a while. It feels like forever since I sat to write down thoughts from our daily lives here in Ankara. Most of that has been because of being psychotically busy. When there is a moment of time, there is often no energy. But mostly it is because the thoughts in my mind have been jumbled, swirling, forming, and waging wars against internal editors of common sense/censors. It is time, though, and I have time. The morning is clear and cool and quiet. The tea is hot.

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Comfy chairs outside an Ulus store.

Prom happened. A university was chosen. Dakota is now a future Lobo at the University of New Mexico, in “Albuquirky” as she calls it. She recently spent a lovely week in Germany where her soccer team not only came in dead last, but also received many compliments on how friendly and enjoyable they were and how they made everyone they met feel. One teammate sustained a pretty nasty concussion. To say the least, it wasn’t the trip that they all were looking forward to.

Jackson is involved in scouts and soccer and has after school activities where he is learning to play hockey. He has some interesting events he is really excited about that we are in the middle of plans for. He is growing like crazy and seems to have a one track mind for ramen noodles which he prefers to prepare himself. He survived being in a massive hail and downpour squall that caught him and friends off guard while outside playing. The red welts on his arms and legs go well with the shiner he picked up last weekend from another outdoor play with friends. He’s looking pretty rough, but adorably growing up as well.

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This is an old photo taken in Beypazar back in late autumn. I love the interaction of the family members and friends. It is what drew me to quietly snap their photo.

I’ve spent a lot of time lately driving in the car around Ankara to get to and from meetings and to get children to and from pickups/drop-offs. I can swerve and honk with the best/worst of them now and it doesn’t faze me, much. Being out and about has helped me learn more about the city.

I have found a refugee camp that goes unnoticed right under everybody’s noses and daily business. They are truly invisible but in pure sight. The beggars on the corner are increasing. It is heartbreaking. You could give and give and it wouldn’t be enough. I have heard of numbers swelling, of scuffles between refugees and locals, of backlogs and need. I heard the rumor that there were hunger strikes and protests where refugees were sewing their mouths shut to bring attention to unfair practices at the UN. That rumor is true, it seems, and has been done by a handful of Afghan refugees who are experiencing some very difficult circumstances in their quest to find a safe and welcoming place to have a life. I had heard the rumor, though, about a couple months back, so I wonder how many have done this before it was reports in the news – or at least in this English version of this Turkish newspaper. There was another rumor of some restructuring going on in one particular refugee assistance group – so there may be new opportunities to serve in the next year.

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A back patio style seating area behind a small store, off a side street path in Ulus

My PTSO commitments are winding down. A new board was selected and they are a great group of ladies who are very capable and talented, so a lot has been getting things handed off. There have been final meetings, too. I just have a few last bits to wrap up for the scholarship committee. I was up til 1am the other night folding and assembling special bulletins for graduation. It felt so good waking up with it accomplished and even better delivering the product. My impromptu happy dance was joined by the office staff still which had us all cracking up. And with each bit, comes more excitement for our daughter’s approaching graduation milestone. Times are good. Although I am glad I stepped up and took on a leadership role with PTSO, I am also very ready to walk away and have that behind me. I think that I am better suited for a support/behind the scenes kind of helping. The front line is brutal at times as much as it can be rewarding; many times I was way out of my comfort zone. I grew a lot this year and I think I helped make a difference. I also had to make some decisions to say no, to disappoint others, to draw lines, and to be judged all the time, not just about the school support, but also perceptions of how I supported my children. My skin wasn’t always thick enough.

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One family in Ulus chats to another from their balconies.

In January, we chose to move our son from this school to another: the pre-move battles, the fallout, the two school schedules, having to become a twice a day taxi because the new school’s bus service was unavailable for the remainder of the year. Jackson is in a very good place now. Adjustments haven’t always been the smoothest, but we are 100% convinced we did the right thing for him despite the complications to us all. He is thriving. And as he has told us numerous times, “Mom, we’re ok. You know this is a first world problem.” Such wisdom. He also, now that he has MUN (model united nations) as a class, frequently addresses any complaints of parental decisions with rebuttals along the lines of “the delegation of Jackson greatly objects to the oppressive tactics of the dictatorship delegate of mom regarding sanctions against …..” He’s actually quite good, which is lucky for him because I find myself smiling despite the frustration of insisting for the third time that he hang up clothes or he will lose some privileges.

Now… to enjoy my daughter’s graduation, my mom’s visit, celebrating with other senior parents, to watch my son have amazing school opportunities and travels, to see my daughter have her first real job, to experience more of Turkey, to play with the dogs, to clean my house from the spawn of Wookie fur bunnies that her shedding has let loose all over, to snuggle my 100 pound lap dog and to sit and have tea and laughter with friends, to look forward all the lavender going into bloom. I had heard the rumor that although adversity can destroy, it also can bring many blessings and growth. It really is spring here. Lots of new beginnings. I’m thriving too.

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I love this bench made from ancient ruins. I found it along the back side streets of Ulus.

Thanks for sitting with me a bit. Now that you’ve heard me chattering on, please do let me know what is going on with you. Send emails or old fashioned letters; leave a comment. I will be making calls soon to catch up with you. Blogging is great, but so one sided. And I miss my friends and family all around the world.

 

 

 

Locals

The old section of Ulus early in the morning is the best for many reasons. I love being out when a neighborhood is just waking up and getting started for the day. Going by bus, you join the morning commuters: students, government workers, families in transit. You pass the simit and lottery ticket vendors as you make your way to the steep road that takes you up near the citadal. Shop keepers are getting ready for the day. Going by car, you are the first going into narrow empty streets and into the parking lot for a prime spot to easily extract yourself later. Either way: it is smooth. The day hasn’t started, the tourists haven’t started. The roads and pathways belong to just the locals and it stays this way until the lunch hour. Mornings in Turkey go slow and draw you in.

 

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The store above shows off kilims and carpets in the morning sun. I just love looking at the colors and patterns. I also love people watching. Since this part of Ulus is first and foremost a neighborhood there are often greetings among vendors and friends. The three older men walking in a seemingly random pace all meet up and continue on together without much surprise. It feels like they are old friends on a well worn path. I wonder if they have known each other their whole lives, and how awesome that would be to live in a place with old friends to meet up with on a regular basis.

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Antiques, and replicas and trinkets are all displayed along the narrow sidewalk to lure in possible customers – especially on a fresh spring morning. And in front of almost every shop there is some sort of seating for vendors to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air while catching up with visiting friends. Relationships are central and defining in Turkey; there is always time for friends and family.

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The locals take breaks after morning preparations for the soon to arrive tourists. Some places like this little restaurant below are just within an eye’s glance of the bus drop offs. I prefer the periphery and beyond because the closer you get to the castle the more often you are treated like a number. It is the difference of a business looking for a one time get what you can profit and a business that establishes a relationship with you, knowing you will come back, make recommendations, and bring friends. I guess because I am not quite a tourist but never a local I am always looking for a place that feels like I belong. It doesn’t have to be fancy. It just needs to feel welcoming.

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The further you go, the more you find shops that blend tourist with collector with local life needs. This man below is reinforcing an old wood trough with cooper sheeting. There are a few stores that have weathered wooden household items such as doors, window frames, tools, and farm troughs. My favorite find that I haven’t bought yet is an old wooden lambs feeding trough. It is carved with sections for each lamb’s portion and has evidence of little teeth grooves from nibbling down to the last bits. I would have it down the middle of my dining table as a runner of sorts with candles, condiments, decoration, etc. Maybe if we next move someplace that a full dining table would fit into our home, I will get it. Until then, I dream and look through stacks and bits of other people’s lives.

The store behind this man is a coffin shop. Real life, real Ulus, real needs.

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There are many men working their trades here, not just the one above. You will hear the tapping of hammers as copper is bent and dimpled into bowls. Kilims are repaired or sewn into new creations. And just a turn or two away are the narrow streets that more resemble extravagant pathways, connecting homes and neighborhoods beyond, holding the hopes and dreams of the locals who care for these streets and businesses when the tourists buses go away each night.

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The ratio of women working in Ulus seems to be quite low.  There are a couple female pharmacists at the local eczane, a wonderful woman in a popular Turkish goods store, a couple of artists (one paintings and one fabrics), two women sewing the famous Turkish “M C Hammer Pants” and the women along the gauntlet of stairs approaching the castle. They are not as aggressive as many gauntlets in other tourists areas. And when you greet them in Turkish they respond with genuine gentleness. It was quite disarming, actually.

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