St Kitts was all sorted: a half-day excursion to see what island life had to offer. And by “offer”, I mean queues. Yes, once again we found ourselves standing in the hot sun (we never got used to it), this time alongside passengers from at least four massive ships all disgorging thousands of tourists onto an island with a population of 50,000. Everyone eager to taste a bit of Caribbean life; we were just eager to taste some air conditioning.


Enter our bus driver, Ray. Or, as he insisted, Ray-Ray. According to him he’s a handsome 40-year-old (self-certified), and in his real life he’s a sergeant in the island’s drug squad. When I asked how he had time to drive a tour bus, he explained that as a policeman he’s a public servant — and public servants apparently get roped in when the cruise ships arrive en masse. When I asked about crime on the island, he said, “There isn’t much. All the bad people are in jail.” Mostly domestic disturbances, apparently. At this point it felt like we’d wandered into an episode of Death in Paradise.
Ray-Ray was lovely and religiously obeyed the speed limit (while promising to “catch” anyone who overtook him), but guiding was not his natural calling. His highlights included pointing out local takeaways, Chinese supermarkets, gas stations, and — the star attraction — the island’s new stop sign. When a landmark actually was interesting, he suggested we read the sign ourselves. We did also find out that he’s divorced, saw where he works, and spotted a couple of his colleagues who clearly didn’t feel quite so “public servant-y” about driving tourists around.
Our first stop was a small hotel with beautiful gardens and stunning views (see above) — and guests who were desperately trying to relax by the pool despite a parade of cruise passengers clomping past them like wet-footed wildebeest.
Twenty minutes later we were back on the bus, trundling past the “Tabernacle Fellowship of Excitement”. These islanders really don’t hold back when it comes to naming their churches.
Ray then drove us through a slice of rainforest featuring a zip line which he said was great for “holidays and so forth”. “And so forth” was very much his catchphrase — you can hear it echoing on the first video like a tropical mantra… and so forth….
Next stop: a local batik studio. Beautiful stuff, genuinely — but like all excursions, you’re in and out faster than you can say “inconsidered purchase”, so buying anything was unlikely. And realistically, when am I ever going to wear tie-dye again? Exactly.

We passed some poorer neighbourhoods, after which Ray suddenly decided to show us the posh end (which, confusingly, also had Chinese supermarkets). This took us to Frigate Bay, where Ray said all the “good and great” come to party. He drove us down a road of beach bars — shacks, really — and pointed out the site where one beloved bar had recently burned down. The owner was still soldiering on with a makeshift table and four pans bubbling away on portable stoves. Ray informed us his favourite tipple is the local beer, which he buys by the bucket on Thursdays when he goes for karaoke. I asked what he sings; I wasn’t shocked to hear “Bob Marley”. The man is practically a saint here.
Our final stop was the big photo op: Timothy Hill, where you can see the Atlantic Ocean meet the Caribbean Sea. Well, they have to meet somewhere, I suppose, and this is as good a place as any. As Ray-Ray would say, “and so forth”.

We did stop at a fortress but to be fair we only made it as far as the make shift bar and a cold beer, well we had earned it and so forth….















